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THE GUBBERMINT ALWAYS KNOWS BEST


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Time for the winter fleet

 

I'm too tight to pay out road tax for everything as we only really need one car. As the Austin is the most likely to rust it is coming off daily duties during the worst of the weather. It can be reserve for event of breakdown same as the tax is free. The camper van was supposed to be SORNed but I assumed I could just claim the tax back at the post office on the 31st. RONG, it has to be sent to the DVLA with a special form so I'll send it off a little before the end of this month instead.

 

So this morning I taxed the BX ready for winter, preperation was a little minimal. I topped up the antifreeze and gave it a wash, fixed the return pipes from the front struts and made a mental note to replace the front tyres as they are perished. Seems ok, its slow to rise and the speedo didn't work at first but it seems to be getting its groove back. I'll use it myself instead of my bicycle for a few days before handing it over to the mrs for active service.

 

In other news my mate had a car won't start shall I weigh it in crisis, turned out that drilling a new hole in your car key so it'll stay on your keyring is a poor idea if it contains the imobiliser chip :lol:

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The camper van was supposed to be SORNed but I assumed I could just claim the tax back at the post office on the 31st. RONG, it has to be sent to the DVLA with a special form so I'll send it off a little before the end of this month instead.

 

You can download the form (V14 for dvla form fans), as long as it's in the post by th 31st it counts for reclaiming tax.

http://www.direct.gov.uk/prod_consum_dg/groups/dg_digitalassets/@dg/@en/@motor/documents/digitalasset/dg_065248.pdf

 

In other news my mate had a car won't start shall I weigh it in crisis, turned out that drilling a new hole in your car key so it'll stay on your keyring is a poor idea if it contains the imobiliser chip :lol:

 

:mrgreen: Fantastic!

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With the BX, I'd recommend giving it a good dose of anti-rust gunk in a few places. Front inner wheelarches (they rot below the screenwash bottles), A posts (think you can pull the wiring grommet out of the door to get a wax lance in) rear crossmember and rear arches are the key spots. The heater tap can jam up too, so every few days, move it from hot to cold and back. Be warned that the BX is an absolute sod for the doors freezing shut when it's really cold. Vaseline around the door rubber helps apparently.

 

Hope that advice is handy for all the BX owners on this site!

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With the BX, I'd recommend giving it a good dose of anti-rust gunk in a few places. Front inner wheelarches (they rot below the screenwash bottles), A posts (think you can pull the wiring grommet out of the door to get a wax lance in) rear crossmember and rear arches are the key spots. The heater tap can jam up too, so every few days, move it from hot to cold and back. Be warned that the BX is an absolute sod for the doors freezing shut when it's really cold. Vaseline around the door rubber helps apparently.

 

Hope that advice is handy for all the BX owners on this site!

 

 

I'd also get some lithium grease into the key holes - BX locks freeze up quicker than a virgin at a stag night

 

be careful not to spill it on the paint work - it won't damage it but it is a pig to remove -

 

I spray some of the wax into a dish - sook it up with a syringe and use that to inject into the locks - the aerosol will work but it comes out under pressure and tends to go everywhere!

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Cheers guys :D

 

Now if only someone had told me about those frozen doors last winter. One chilly morning, after spending ten minutes getting the drivers door open 2 of the kids were bundled through it as I wasn't going through that again with the other side. In the mean time the handle froze into the up position so I drove them to school using my seatbelt to tie the door shut :roll:

 

Spring time will be welding time (hopefully) for the A posts, screen surround and front inner wings as they are really quite bad already. Hopefully some anti rust gunk further back will save me from a full resto.

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In better news Mrs the Princess' C-reg Oporto Red Metro is booked into an Mot on Tuesday. Just need to make it charge it's self before then :oops:

 

 

Photo of said Metro required please :) A rare colour for Metros to be in, it's normally a popular Meastro colour. Oh, and good luck with the MoT!

 

Here's a taster, more to follow post MoT

 

jrqqlc.jpg

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Can anyone help, the Metro above won't charge. Mrs the Princess swapped the alternator twice with no success. We have been told it's to do with the wiring to the ignition warning light, the car was almost stolen from the previous owner in Bristol and would have been had they not damaged the wiring on the igntion barrel meaning they could only bump it 50 yards on the starter. Apparently the alternator won't charge if the ignition warning light won't come on, so I need to run a wire from the light to an ignition controlled wire.

 

Does that make sense? I have a horrible feeling wires will start melting.

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Can anyone help, the Metro above won't charge. Mrs the Princess swapped the alternator twice with no success. We have been told it's to do with the wiring to the ignition warning light, the car was almost stolen from the previous owner in Bristol and would have been had they not damaged the wiring on the igntion barrel meaning they could only bump it 50 yards on the starter. Apparently the alternator won't charge if the ignition warning light won't come on, so I need to run a wire from the light to an ignition controlled wire.

 

Does that make sense? I have a horrible feeling wires will start melting.

 

To cut a very long story short, the same used to happen to Granadas/Scorpios.

A decorator living near me had to drive home with no lights or not be able to drive home.

AA man stopped him, told him the charging light had blown and drove home in front of him.

 

IIRC they charged £180 to fix it at the local Ford dealer.

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Can anyone help, the Metro above won't charge. Mrs the Princess swapped the alternator twice with no success. We have been told it's to do with the wiring to the ignition warning light, the car was almost stolen from the previous owner in Bristol and would have been had they not damaged the wiring on the igntion barrel meaning they could only bump it 50 yards on the starter. Apparently the alternator won't charge if the ignition warning light won't come on, so I need to run a wire from the light to an ignition controlled wire.

 

Does that make sense? I have a horrible feeling wires will start melting.

This is correct - the no-charge light provides the current required to excite the windings in the alternator. A wire taken from a switched live, through a bulb (an old indicator side repeater will work!) and onto the correct terminal on the alternator should see you ok. The bulb can be kept in the engine bay for such an emergency to save your retinas!

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