1994 Jeep Cherokee 4.0 - "cheap jeep"

[skattrd]

Fuel filled up earlier, plug leads re-routed and no difference.

Now at Tunbridge Wells services and nsf brake binding I think, well, nsf wheel is hot to touch and others aren't.

[bangernomics]

 

Indeed

[skattrd]

The wheel was hot to touch and after 15 mins the disc was still too hot to go near, it might be a little glazed now.

Calliper bolts loosened, levered apart a little, wacked a few times, and now it moves ... one casualty, the screwdriver.

 

 

 

 

VID_20190120_152555.mp4

[skattrd]

Sitrep:
Bishop Stortford services
88 miles done, I'm halfway home.
All wheels cold to touch, so no binding brakes.
The jeep is running good, but doesn't like hard acceleration. It's bucks and jerks when you floor it, but if you use gentle pressure it will get to speed no worries.
All gauges working, needles point where they should do, most lights work, it's not uncomfortable and I'm starting to think it might get me home... Fingers crossed peeps.

Time for KFC before continuing.

[Skizzer]

My 4.0 Wrangler was like that - new HT leads sorted it out. After that it was quite nippy and fun, at least until it failed the MOT on catastrophic chassis rot.

 

Well bought!

[beko1987]

No e! My friend had a 4l one when we were 19, it was fucking amazing! You can see the fuel needle move above 120mph on the m40...

[Shirley Knott]

I love these but I'm frankly too frightened of galloping rot and terrifying MPG stats to ever dare buy one myself. Hats off to you for your bravery, it looks great!

[skattrd]

Home, alive and well.

 

Cheers for the tip skizzer, I'll order some HT leads and cross my fingers.

I'll check the rest of the service items tomorrow (or Tuesday) I have plans for tomorrow involving another car or two.

 

 

182 miles covered and only half a tank of pez used.

If I was able to calculate the mpgs now I would, as I reckon they will be better than I will ever see again. Not being able to accelerate hard meant steady driving, and the journey was mostly dual carriageway.

 

Update … erm, probably full update tomorrow when I'm less knackered.

 

To do:

Fix electric seat, drivers seat doesn't move at all.

Fix misfire/whatever under hard acceleration … HT leads, fuel system, not sure.

Rear view mirror not attached - needs gluing back on.

Figure out other things... internal lights don't work when you open the door, central locking not working on the key, rear seat filthy and ripped (clean/replace/gaffer tape)

Prob lots of other stuff I can't remember now.

[eddyramrod]

Well bought sir.  I like these, I would certainly have one.  I will be watching!

[Jim Bell]

Just Enough Extendable Penis.

 

Excellent purchase man, and good fixing!  Good job you took the kit bag because those tools came in mega handy.

 

 

Is it an XJ chassis then?

[skattrd]

Cheers Jim, it was a good job I took a wheel brace with me as despite there being a jack there was no brace to remove the wheel nuts.

 

edit: yes it is an xj, well, I think it is.

[HillmanImp]

Meet you at the woods near your house next week? *

 

 

I'll bring some William Shatner albums, you bring the Jeep.

 

*To drive like in the video, if there's any dogging going on we'll see what happens.

[Crispian_J_Hotson]

NOTE: 1.07 Interior light operational.

[Arfur Foxache]

Please see the following line taken from the ebay advert for this vehicle........

 

'I have however removed the interior light bulbs as something with them was draining the battery'

[spartacus]

I don't think you can go far wrong for £500 ish. Thirsty but eye opening to drive imo. The diesel is a shit engine what you'll save in fuel you'll spend on head gaskets.

11.8/10

[bangernomics]

Remember bringing one of these in on swap against a then new frontera ltd. Took it home and back 8 miles and it used a gallon of petrol.

 

Nice to be in, rocked side to side when revved (was a young chaps measure of a good car back then) and was actually well screwed together for what it was.

 

Enjoy it.

[skattrd]

The morning after ... well, it looks worse in the metal, it is a bit rough around the edges, but I'm hoping the important stuff is good as it's relatively low mileage at 56k.

Despite the seller saying he was going to remove the plate he decided to leave it … That's probably worth half the purchase price, or maybe not.

The previous owner was a city dentist who bought this at 3 years old and 27k in 1997 to use at his country house, which he didn't visit often. He clocked up just under 30k in 21+ years ownership

 

 

There are many dents and scuffs, this is one of them:

 

 

The drivers seat is pretty comfy, it's just a shame I can't move it … electric controls inop

 

 

 

Interior - pretty filthy

Rear seat might get replaced/removed or something. it's leather so I'll give it a clean and see how it looks after that. I'll probably just gaffer tape the hole.

 

 

 

Mechanical/important stuff:

 

Check engine light permanently on - I'll google some forums for this. It's 1994, so pre-obdII, I doubt a std code reader will read anything useful.

There is a chance I might just tape it over or remove the bulb.

 

HT leads on order to hopefully rectify misfire/bucking.

Air filter - clean

Oil - clean, on the low mark, will check grade and top up

Gearbox oil - clean, on the low mark. I'll check whether I'm supposed to check level hot or cold before topping up.

Fuel filter - I didn't see, I'll check manual for location

OSR position lamp inop - prob bulb, I'll check the type as I've only got 501s at home. All other lights appear to work.

There isn't a huge amount of  toys or buttons. I tried cruise control yesterday (not working) and I'd be amazed is the a/c was working.

 

Not working,

Electric seats

Central locking doesn't work at all. I also have a remote fob, which I'm tempted to ignore.

Interior courtesy lights - they work when you manually turn them on, but not when you open the door.

Rear view mirror not attached - sticky pads on order.

 

 

I'll read the owners manual for the oil grade, ATF checking procedure and bulb types.

It might also give some hints for things like the courtesy light.

 

Edit: 

ATF check is when warm, which it says is after 15+ miles, so I'll check that another day and leave for now.

Engine oil is unsurprisingly 10w40 - I've got spare, so will top up

Bulbs required are P21/5w … will get from ecp tomorrow

[skattrd]

Top left, bottom to top, 1-4 should be 30 amp circuit breakers, 2 & 4 have been replaced with fuses.

 

 

1. Power locks, seats - not working

2, Heated rear window -untested

3. Power windows - working

4. Heater blower - working

 

Time to play musical fuses and see if I can get the seats working.

 

… update, I swapped circuit breaker 1 & 3 around and windows still worked and seats didn't, so the issue is elsewhere

 

Check engine light

OBD - flashing diagnostic lights:

http://www.fixjeeps.com/jeep-check-engine-codes.html

 

• Turn the key to ON, OFF, ON, OFF, ON ... stop .. leave the key in the ON position (Complete this sequence in under 5 seconds). Once you stop the key in the ON position, the check engine light will stay lit for a moment. 
• When the light goes off, get ready to start counting the light flashings. 
• Once the Check Engine Light has turned off, it will pause in the off position for a second or two, and then start to flash, count the flashes. Each OBD code stored will be given to you in a 2 digit sequence. As an example, code 12 
• would be FLASH ... <PAUSE>... FLASH FLASH followed by a <LONG PAUSE>, followed by the next code. Code 55 signals the end of stored OBD codes. You can repeat the key sequence as many times as needed if you were unsure of a code.

 

Pen at the ready … count the flashes, write your answers below please

 

 

I got: 

12 - Battery recently disconnected
24 - Throttle position sensor signal above or below acceptable voltage.
22 - Coolant temperature sensor signal above or below acceptable voltage.
55 - End of codes

 

If those are correct … Coolant temp sensor and TPS.

[Rocket88]

Top left, bottom to top, 1-4 should be 30 amp circuit breakers, 2 & 4 have been replaced with fuses.

 

IMG_20190121_145811.jpg

 

1. Power locks, seats - not working

2, Heated rear window -untested

3. Power windows - working

4. Heater blower - working

 

Time to play musical fuses and see if I can get the seats working.

 

… uodate, I swapped circuit breaker 1 & 3 around and windows still worked and seats didn't, so the issue is elsewhere

 

Check engine light

OBD - flashing diagnostic lights:

http://www.fixjeeps.com/jeep-check-engine-codes.html

 

 

Pen at the ready … count the flashes, write your answers below please

 

 

I got: 

12 - Battery recently disconnected

24 - Throttle position sensor signal above or below acceptable voltage.

22 - Coolant temperature sensor signal above or below acceptable voltage.

55 - End of codes

 

If those are correct … Coolant temp sensor and TPS.

 

Bloody witchcraft.........

[skattrd]

Sensors + HT leads ordered = £60

A cheap car quickly becomes less cheap. I'll be chuffed if this is the end of the expenditure for now, but I doubt it.

[DoctorRetro]

Cracked dizzi cap would also give similar symptoms, have you lifted the bonnet in the dark?

 

My Chevy was like that and the arcing under the bonnet at night was spectacular.

[Steve79]

Fuel economy is truly awful on these. I had an early rhd 4.0 Ltd around 2013 (before they were built in Austria like yours). Lpg converted but never got better than 17mpg on petrol and 14/15 on gas.

 

Having said that, they'll take a tremendous amount of abuse and 4wd capability is brilliant. I had the OEM fit General Grabber AT2 on mine and grip was fanatastic in all weather and terrain conditions.

 

Rear axle on these is a Dana 35 and has a LSD. If you change the oil make sure you out in an additive such as https://jeepey.com/product/limited-slip-additive-4318060ab/.

 

Watch out for rot in the roof as well, particularly above the rear doors by the guttering as this is a common problem area.

 

If cruise control isn't working it'll be down to either the vacuum lines are disconnected or split or the vacuum reservoir Underneath the radiator is knackered. This reservoir also controls the aircon direction flaps and recirculation.

 

If seat controls haven't been used for a while the motors seize up. Get Underneath and give them a twatting with a hammer or other solid object while moving the switches. Should get them moving.

 

Well bought though and wouldn't mind having another. Dibs on this when you sell!

 

Little tip - leave the power switch on (sport mode) as it makes little difference to the economy but gets the best out of the engine which sounds best above 3500rpm

 

Here's a pic of my old one

[skattrd]

Cracked dizzi cap would also give similar symptoms, have you lifted the bonnet in the dark?

 

My Chevy was like that and the arcing under the bonnet at night was spectacular.

 

Good tip, and I would go and see if I could see arcing now, but  I've disconnected the battery to try and clear the ecu error codes. Yes I know the error "12" will be back as I disconnected the battery

 

Dizzy cap, rotor and spark plugs are on my next shopping list should the HT leads not fix the issue.

I wasn't keen on the leads when I re-routed them yesterday, so thought I'd try changing those first.

[Guest SpikeyFaz]

Hi there.

 

I've been considering getting a Jeep like this as I don't fancy another Land Rover or Shogun (both too big and unwieldy for modern motoring). I'm not worried about fuel consumption as I only do a few miles.

 

Any tips on what to look for when buying? I've been lurking on Autoshite for a while but this is my first post, so go easy on me.

 

Cheers

Mike

[sutty2006]

We had a black 4.0 Cherokee circa 1994/5. K451 CBF was the reg. it was an absolute gorgeous machine.... a family holiday to Scotland towing a 4 berth caravan for two weeks was interesting. I remember dad saying he stopped at every petrol station we passed “just incase”. Do love these. But it’s cheaper to run a landrover.

[jonathan_dyane]

Well bought, I love these heaps for some reason

[hairnet]

Oh, these are absolutely hateful things. Well bought, sir.

says a man with an ml

[hairnet]

codes

have you got a fucked ign barrel now

[vaughant]

I had the slightly later version of this, the curvy one and it never bettered 17mpg on fuel and 15 on gas. Gas was well with doing and there will be loads of second hand kits around should you decide to keep it.

The handling was comical on them, wing mirror scraping on every bend!!!

That said it was soild, comfortable and very reliable apart from it needed a new rear wheel bearing and that meant pissing about removing half shafts etc which on my drive I CBA and ended up scraping it when scrap was high, it owed me nothing though to be fair.

Could get it all drifty in the slightest bit of wet which was great fun plus the engine sounded great.

Wouldn't have another due to economy and handling plus I've heard the square shaped one is even worse but I did like it overall.

I owned an ml at the time also and it was far superior in most things but the Jeep was much nicer on the motorway, that engine pulls and pulls beyond 80.

[vaughant]

Plus it towed anything at all.