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Best way to do an oil change?


Peter C

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I’m gonna change the oil in my W123 and W124 this weekend. Both cars have been standing all week.

 

What’s best, drain the oil without starting up the engines, taking advantage of the oil having drained into the sumps or starting the engines for a minute or two so the oil can warm up a bit and thus become more viscous?

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I run it to temp personally and put my sparkly big girl pants on and go for it. Reasoning? You want all the shit to still be suspended in the oil and then pull the plug, not just resting at the bottom of the sump.

 

That, and the fact I’m the most impatient person you’ll ever meet.

 

I tend to do mine after a 50 mile journey - let it cool a bit, quick run again and then out.

 

Be warned, the oil will be hot and the sump plug magnetised to your bucket.

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How good is access? I do changes on the Saab 'cold' because it won't go up on ramps due to being too low at the front, so I have to bump it up on a kerb and wiggle my robust frame under enough to get a socket onto the sump plug. Doing the work with the engine up to temp would result in severe burns I suepct.

 

The only consequence I am aware of is that it takes longer to drain as the oil is more viscous (thicker).

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Then always remember to make a mess of your driveway and flytip your used oil receptacle.

 

The smart* kids drop the contents of the sump over a council drain cover. Its what we pay our taxes for, you understand?

 

(this is sarcasm for the avoidance of doubt)

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I do it the way my dad taught me when I was growing up, i always run the oil up to temp then do the change as quick as possible after switching off engine, please be careful doing it this way though due to the heat of the stream of oil that will come from your sump and also be careful around hot exhausts

 

I usually drain mine into used 5l oil tubs with a rectangle cut out then decant into plastic milk bottles for ease of disposal

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dont forget to take the old filter off whilst it is still hot, wear gloves as it will be hot. let it all drain whilst having a brew then roll up sleeve and retrieve sump plug from bucket, use a new washer on sump plug and dont forget to run some fresh oil round the new filter's seal. dont overtighten filter or sump plug

 

once your finished cat litter is good for soaking up oil from the drive 

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Sump plug, schmump plug.

 

I'm in the Pela camp too.

 

And very warm to hot for drainage - usually a 20 minute hoon, a 30 minute wait and the Pela sucks it all out within 15 minutes with a few pumps of the handle.

 

There are arguments that a Pela won't get every last morsel of bad shit out, but I'm sure someone on PowerfullyBuiltDirectorsHeads.com measured the amount that came out of the sump after using a Pela pump and it was no more than a thimbleful.

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I know my Pela gets 3.8 litres out of a 4 litre sump so 95% of the old oil. However dad’s Citroen sump must be an odd shape or he was doing it wrong as he can only get half the oil out of his. Personally I think he was snagging a baffle or similar.

 

I change mine every 6000 using decent synth so I wouldn’t expect there to be much sludge in there. A 95% change at half the recommended interval with a good brand filter should be ok. After all what does a main dealer do? Quick suck out with an electric pump and wang in too much fresh cheap ass semi synth which somehow costs £1a litre when purchased but £15 a litre when sold...I reckon my way is reasonable enough.

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I use a motorised pump through the dipstick on mine.  Always run the car up to temperature and then do it.  I can get about 4.6 litres out of the 5, which I'm basically happy with and my oil is always the 'right' spec for my engine.  I must, however, do Lady Grumpius' Focus because I'm sure it's several times over the service interval.  Oops.

 

The pump is the only reason I can be bothered to do oil changes.  It was cheaper than a pair of axle stands!  Which are probably the next thing I need to buy.  The interval on my car is about 10,000.  I try to keep to it (due in 1600, actually!) as best I can but I do a lot of miles so the oil is never 'old' as such.

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Doing mine in the next few weeks, will definitely run it up to warm-ish first.

 

I instinctively want to raise the front up for easier access to sump and filter, but is that a bad idea because the slope would mean it not all draining out so well? Thoughts welcomed...

 

[MG ZT-T with KV6 engine]

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I know my Pela gets 3.8 litres out of a 4 litre sump so 95% of the old oil. However dad’s Citroen sump must be an odd shape or he was doing it wrong as he can only get half the oil out of his. Personally I think he was snagging a baffle or similar.

I change mine every 6000 using decent synth so I wouldn’t expect there to be much sludge in there. A 95% change at half the recommended interval with a good brand filter should be ok. After all what does a main dealer do? Quick suck out with an electric pump and wang in too much fresh cheap ass semi synth which somehow costs £1a litre when purchased but £15 a litre when sold...I reckon my way is reasonable enough.

It’s a bit hit and mis how much, if anything an extractor gets out.

 

I’ve got a similar problem to your dad on my daily. Gets 80% out. That’s fine I’ve got an oil valve in the sump for the remainder. It just cuts out the mess element as far as possible really

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There are arguments that a Pela won't get every last morsel of bad shit out, but I'm sure someone on PowerfullyBuiltDirectorsHeads.com measured the amount that came out of the sump after using a Pela pump and it was no more than a thimbleful.

 

Doing mine in the next few weeks, will definitely run it up to warm-ish first.

 

I instinctively want to raise the front up for easier access to sump and filter, but is that a bad idea because the slope would mean it not all draining out so well? Thoughts welcomed...

 

[MG ZT-T with KV6 engine]

Not a fan of the pumps here. They get out 95% of the old oil a normal change would but some part of says that 5% leftover has 90% of the shit left in it.

I don't think the argument between the two methods has much to do with how much you don't get out, but which oil it is, and I suspect this varies from vehicle to vehicle-they all have dipsticks and sump plugs in different places.

 

I think the ideal is probably either method, but with a flush inbetween old and new oil.

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I don't think the argument between the two methods has much to do with how much you don't get out, but which oil it is, and I suspect this varies from vehicle to vehicle-they all have dipsticks and sump plugs in different places.I think the ideal is probably either method, but with a flush inbetween old and new oil.

I would never use a flushing oil unless you know the car from new and it’s always been done. They can dislodge all sorts of shite and cause big problems.

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I would never use a flushing oil unless you know the car from new and it’s always been done. They can dislodge all sorts of shite and cause big problems.

Yup, Had a Renner 5 sieze solid on me years ago because of his. Thought I was doing good.

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