Guest Hooli Posted January 13, 2019 Share Posted January 13, 2019 Excellent fault finding. That return system must dump some fuel back into the tank for thermal expansion to fill the void from the fuel used which is surprising given these use a fair bit of the pony juice. I believe the pumps run at full flow all the time & any unused fuel is returned to the tank, meaning the injector rail etc is cooled. So in normal driving most of the fuel will get back to the tank. I used to know someone with one of these who could get it do 5mpg when hooning, considering they'll top 22mpg on a run that's about 80% of the fuel returning to the tank. I assume this is to allow a consistent fuel temp for metering. If the fuel gets hot & expands then you get less energy per CC of fuel, meaning the injectors would need to fire longer to stop the engine being lean. Running the fuel at a more constant temp resolves that issue to a large degree. Isaac Hunt 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hooli Posted January 14, 2019 Share Posted January 14, 2019 Also once again I have front heated screen envy. Does it work on this one? I tried it this morning, I think not But we have more cold weather arriving so I'll get to find out for sure. TBH I'm not really bothered if it does or not as the demist is damned good anyway. In fact it's even better on this car as it warms up in half the time of a NA, which must be all the extra heat from the blower. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broadsword Posted January 14, 2019 Share Posted January 14, 2019 Yeah, blower Jags heat up very quickly indeed from my experience. Nearly as fast a an MGF. Only problem with the F is that you never know if the temp will just keep going up and up after reaching operating temperature chadders, chodweaver, Ohdearme and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hooli Posted January 14, 2019 Share Posted January 14, 2019 I just followed Richardthestag's advice & tried SNG Barratt for bits. OE mk3 secondary timing chain tensioners & new bolts (as a lot of places say they are a different length) ordered for £103 delivered. I might do them next weekend, technically I shouldn't as I'll be on call. But it depends on the weather. richardthestag 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardthestag Posted January 14, 2019 Share Posted January 14, 2019 dont forgot the tools to lock the cams and sprockets into place, else probably stuff of nightmares Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hooli Posted January 14, 2019 Share Posted January 14, 2019 dont forgot the tools to lock the cams and sprockets into place, else probably stuff of nightmares No need. I've found a great* bodge online. cable-tie the chains to the sprockets & lift the entire exhaust cam to get the tensioner out & the replacement in. dome and bangernomics 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hooli Posted January 16, 2019 Share Posted January 16, 2019 Parts have arrived today & a work mate wanted to do oncall this weekend so I could do his next weekend. That means I'm all ready & set to do the tensioners & change the brake fluid this weekend. I'll have a another damn good look for the suspension knock too. I think it's rear but I'm not 100% convinced. I must book it in for the gearbox fluid change etc too. mrbenn 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broadsword Posted January 16, 2019 Share Posted January 16, 2019 Good luck with the tensioners! Slow and steady is the way to go. Hope the nipples on the brake callipers are ok. I never even attempt to turn them without heat and plusgas on any car I have these days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hooli Posted January 16, 2019 Share Posted January 16, 2019 I'll decide when I look at the nipples, but they've had several baths in WD40 since I got this motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hooli Posted January 18, 2019 Share Posted January 18, 2019 Smoll preview for tomorrow. ..Two tensioners and four bolts don't look much for £103 do they? Slightly* cheaper than an engine rebuild though so worth it for piece of mind. dome, LightBulbFun, Broadsword and 3 others 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yes oui si Posted January 19, 2019 Share Posted January 19, 2019 What an utterly brilliant slab of car for the money. Top buying!Only thing I'd change would be the wheels - they look too much like minilites, which are literally the worst wheels in existence. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete-M Posted January 19, 2019 Share Posted January 19, 2019 XJRs only really work as daily drivers. That's the point of them. richardthestag 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hooli Posted January 19, 2019 Share Posted January 19, 2019 What an utterly brilliant slab of car for the money. Top buying! Only thing I'd change would be the wheels - they look too much like minilites, which are literally the worst wheels in existence. I suggest you get a 97-99 car if you ever get one then, as these wheels were standard 2000-2003. Personally the fact they look like giant minilites is one of the things I really liked about this car when I first saw the pics. Pete-M 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hooli Posted January 19, 2019 Share Posted January 19, 2019 Now then, I guess it's time for a write up of today's entertainment & ghetto techTM. Firstly the secondary timing chain tensioners. Rather than spend £250 or so on locking tools I used ghetto techTM as will be seen later. First things first, get the cam covers off both sides & set the engine to TDC. As there are no timing marks I just made sure the cam's were at TDC by aligning the timing flats on top of them. I didn't need to do this, but it gave me a handy visual reference that it'd all gone back together about right. I then attached the ghetto techTM timing devices, they are the white objects that looks very similar* to cable-ties. This is the RH side, you can see the timing flats up near the sprockets. The next step is to remove the cam journals on the exhaust cam. Once the cam is free to lift out (except for the sprocket) you can get the tensioner out by lifting the cam an inch or so. Leaving you with this. Then it's just a case of putting the new tensioner in, tightening the cam down again. Pulling the locking pin out of the tensioner to release it & you're left with this. The other side is of course just a repeat of the above, with the exception of noting the tensioner is sprung upwards on the LH side not downwards like the RH side. This is due to the direction the cams turn as the tensioning spring always runs on the return not the drive side of the chain. I then removed the cable-tie resembling ghetto techTM locking tools and confirmed the cams were still timed correctly together with the ghetto techTM timing checking tool. I did both sides, but I'm sure you can imagine what the other cams looked like when checked. I turned the engine over two complete revs with a spanner on the crank bolt & rechecked the cam timing was still ok. It all looked good, so I put the covers etc back on, turned the key & it fired up smooth & happy. I'd call that a result. The old tensioners looked like this, you can just see cracks appearing near the centre where oil is stuck in them so they show up as black. They've have lasted ages before failing, but it's one thing I don't need to be concerned about now. After a cuppa I used my new eazi-bleed to put about 1.5ltrs of brake fluid through the system to ensure all the old fluid got flushed out or every pipe. I've not test driven it yet to see if the brakes are better but I suspect so as the old fluid was very pale and didn't feel like brake fluid, so might have been original. yes oui si, Fat_Pirate, Shirley Knott and 20 others 23 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hooli Posted January 19, 2019 Share Posted January 19, 2019 Oh and one other thing, I found out I've got power fold mirrors! It took a bit of WD40 in the hinge to get the RH one moving properly but they work & are comedy loud just like the X300 ones. richardthestag, LightBulbFun, timolloyd and 8 others 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broadsword Posted January 19, 2019 Share Posted January 19, 2019 That's pretty damn impressive getting the secondary timing chain tensioners and brakes bled in one day. Sterling work that man! Oh and one other thing, I found out I've got power fold mirrors! It took a bit of WD40 in the hinge to get the RH one moving properly but they work & are comedy loud just like the X300 ones. Noisy? That is the noise of winning! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hooli Posted January 19, 2019 Share Posted January 19, 2019 TBH I'd have done it quicker if I hadn't dropped my long 10mm socket & spent a good 30mins under the car trying to find it where it'd stuck on the crossmember. Ohdearme, yes oui si, dome and 3 others 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
somewhatfoolish Posted January 19, 2019 Share Posted January 19, 2019 I've not test driven it yet to see if the brakes are better but I suspect so as the old fluid was very pale and didn't feel like brake fluid, so might have been original.Isn't fresh fluid straw coloured and old shit stuff brown/cloudy? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hooli Posted January 19, 2019 Share Posted January 19, 2019 Isn't fresh fluid straw coloured and old shit stuff brown/cloudy? Can be black if it's contaminated aye. I know what came out felt wrong between my fingers compared to what went in though, I'll find out if it's done anything when I use the car next. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardthestag Posted January 20, 2019 Share Posted January 20, 2019 ghetto tech is for winners, makes perfect sense to me and failproof I reckon awesome Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hooli Posted January 20, 2019 Share Posted January 20, 2019 To be fully fail proof a piece of plastic or wood should be shoved in a hole for the primary chain sprocket to trap the secondary chain there. But I figured as I'd put to TDC if it did slip it'd be pretty easy to put it back right so didn't bother. As it turns out I think you'd have to be pretty hamfisted to cause that anyway.I'd rate it as quite simple job, unlike all the internet scare stories. Just work though methodically & it's a doddle. chodweaver and richardthestag 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hooli Posted January 20, 2019 Share Posted January 20, 2019 I road tested this today by driving to tesco to get some ibruprofen gel as leaning over it all day yesterday has buggered my dodgy neck... The brakes are much much better, they feel sharp & positive now. There is no strange squirm where it felt like they started to work one at time anymore either. I'd call that fixed. Annoyingly though the engine has decided to have a misfire below 2k when cold. I'm thinking new plugs might sort it as the gaps looked huge (I forgot to check & regap them yesterday) and the LH bank had a lot of oil down some of the plug holes - one was full almost to the top of the plug. The gaskets looked fine in the cover so they got a smear of sealant & I'll check them again at some point. Can the plugs being soaked in oil damage them? I'm wondering if they've overheated when the oil insulated them and now don't work till properly hot. yes oui si and Broadsword 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hooli Posted January 20, 2019 Share Posted January 20, 2019 I've just checked the manual, plug gaps on this are 47-51thou. I think they were getting on for double that so looks like they'll come out again to try & cure the misfire. Not today though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broadsword Posted January 20, 2019 Share Posted January 20, 2019 I think I will need bleed brakes on mine, whichever I keep. Still not sure. Should keep ELA really, but we will see. When I did the timing chain tensioners on mine there was a decent amount of oil down the spark plug wells. I’m not too convinced a bit of oil down there will cause too much trouble. What I do know, however, is that a full set of correct iridium spark plugs for these engines aren’t so cheap so no doubt that job gets left. Also, I didn’t replace the valve cover seals on mine but I did clean up the mating surface carefully, which seemed to stop the oil leaks it did have at the time, but again it would be tempting to put all new seals in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hooli Posted January 20, 2019 Share Posted January 20, 2019 I'll see if they are wet again when I regap them, which will probably be next weekend now. It's getting to the point I need to book it in for gearbox/diff oil changes as I cba doing such a messy job on the drive. They can find the suspension clonk too, as I can't. Then it's just underseal & enjoy, assuming I've fixed the misfire of course. Oh & one final exciting* fact. A space saver spare at 20psi has enough pressure for one bottle of brake fluid through an eazi-bleed. Hence I pumped it up trice & final time back to 60psi to put back in the boot. LightBulbFun and Broadsword 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hooli Posted January 20, 2019 Share Posted January 20, 2019 Oh & would anyone like to guess the cost of the most uptodate navigation DVD for this from Jaguar? (2003 edition I think). A bargain* at £240.93. I wonder what you get for the 93p? LightBulbFun and Broadsword 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chadders Posted January 20, 2019 Share Posted January 20, 2019 For a 16 year old 'update'! I'd thought they'd be better off clearing them for the 93p, no f****r is going to buy them at anything more than that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hooli Posted January 20, 2019 Share Posted January 20, 2019 You can get them for £30 on ebay, I still won't bother though. yes oui si 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bangernomics Posted January 20, 2019 Share Posted January 20, 2019 Oh & next weekend's plan is bleed the brakes as they feel a bit soft, the fluid looks clean but I suspect it's original. I just need to buy an easy-bleed thing first.Have a cheapo compressor? Buy a vacuum kit for about £10-15 and it’s a doddle. Pulls it through so no fannying about with tyres and caps. Update read whole thread, much well played with the tensioners. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
somewhatfoolish Posted January 20, 2019 Share Posted January 20, 2019 Can the plugs being soaked in oil damage them? I'm wondering if they've overheated when the oil insulated them and now don't work till properly hot.Unlikely, plugs shed heat via the thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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