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Project

The starting to get there Daihatsu YRV turbo 130 thread.

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75 replies to this topic

#61 OFFLINE   Joey spud

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Posted 16 November 2018 - 07:45 PM

Solid repair that. Should see the rest of it out.

 

I hope so i think this is going to be a keeper and something that will get constantly tinkered with.



#62 OFFLINE   fordperv

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Posted 16 November 2018 - 08:16 PM

I wouldn't worry too much about the water cooling on the turbo if the pipes do rot through and leak, just disconnect and block the connecting rubber pipes with a suitable bolt and tighten a jubilee clip, a turbo only needs the oil feed to survive
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#63 OFFLINE   pandamonium

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Posted 16 November 2018 - 09:55 PM

Great work, love to see cars getting this sort of care. It's beyond my skills, must learn to weld at some point...
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#64 OFFLINE   Joey spud

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Posted 17 November 2018 - 11:41 PM

The mojo was high again today so i have finished welding up the n/s sill and arch.

I have been running low on gas so had turned the flow rate down as much as i dare not wanting to run out on a Saturday but it was a bit gusty working outside and i ended up positioning the Hiace across the driveway to act as a wind break to help keep the shielding gas protecting the weld pool and not getting blown away in to the street.

Then my old bottle of Kurust finally ran out so i went to the local hardware shop in the village and got some fresh supplies.

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Marlon behind the counter recommended this stuff and said the guys working on the Marina (the River Medway not BL's finest) swear by it.

It certainly seems to be good stuff i brushed it on neat and then washed it off a hour later and most of the brown rust on the lower edge of the sill had gone.

Most impressive for £8.99.
I have reapplied it and will rinse it off again tomorrow to see how clean it can get it when it's left to really bite into the metal.

20181117_155730.jpg
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#65 OFFLINE   Joey spud

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Posted 22 November 2018 - 05:16 PM

The welding is now all finished just need to do the non patented triple paint treatment to the n/s sill.

 

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Trouble is it's either wet and misty or too bleedin cold outside.

 

So instead i took my corroded turbo coolant pipes to my local Pirtek place and the lad said he can make something with a 12mm banjo and 10mm tails for the morning so that's a result.

 

I needed new rear shoes too and being a skin flint i scoured the internet and ordered the cheapest i could find (made by Apec) for a modest £15.05 and blow me they turned up the next day and they look right too.

Back in my garage owning days we would only fit Apec as a last resort because we usually had to file the pads down to get them to fit the calipers and the shoe sets required their linings truing up with 80 grit paper to get the drums to spin without catching.

 

But i guess their QC has improved over the last 20 years as these look bob on.

 

I was not keen on its current UK size 520mm long front number plate that doesn't fit the japanese market sized recess so i ordered a jdm sized plate.

 

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It's better but still a bit big,may have a play around once it's been mot'd.

Yes,i really am that sad.


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#66 OFFLINE   egg

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Posted 22 November 2018 - 06:32 PM

Could do with a similar plate on my Mazda, but might just go for a smaller conventional shaped plate.
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#67 OFFLINE   fordperv

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Posted 22 November 2018 - 06:34 PM

The best thing I have used for cutting number plates to size is a tile cutter
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#68 OFFLINE   Joey spud

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Posted 23 November 2018 - 04:59 PM

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Well the cheap shoes got fitted and they have adjusted up fine.

I wanted to get some protection inside the ends of the sills and arches.

 

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I recently got one of these sucky things to empty the sump oil out of the mower and so loaded it up and splurged a good load of waxy goodness where the sun don't shine then popped the blanking gromit back on.

At the front of the sills i was able to remove a rawlplug type fixing and pump some wax in there too,i'm well pleased i have got inside the sill coated as to be honest i don't normally bother.

I picked up my turbo pipes from Pirtek,when i left the old ones there to be copied i didn't ask how much.
That was a school boy error on my part,oh well they fit well enough.

20181123_151536.jpg


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#69 OFFLINE   tooSavvy

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Posted 23 November 2018 - 05:09 PM

Roffle @Pirtek pricing

.... Did his 'draws air in, over teeth' not give you a clue :)
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Wallsend?.....it's not the End of the Walled ;<)

35942490325_0815d58667.jpgSUCKS


#70 OFFLINE   Joey spud

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Posted 23 November 2018 - 05:15 PM

I thought it would be about £25-£30 tops.

No,nearer £50 including vat.
They did turn them around in about an hour though,but if you value your sanity you don't go near Medway City Ind estate after 4.30pm as it's going home time and there's only one road in and out that gets rammed till 7.00pm most days.

I think i may be out of touch with prices for this kind of thing.
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#71 OFFLINE   Mr_Bo11ox

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Posted 24 November 2018 - 08:19 AM

You're doing a lovely job, very thorough. Nice work
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#72 OFFLINE   Joey spud

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Posted 26 November 2018 - 12:30 PM

^^ A mr bollox seal of approval,i will take that. ^^

20181126_120529.jpg

My Green stuff pads turned up today with 2 stickers in the box for extra win.
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#73 OFFLINE   tooSavvy

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Posted 26 November 2018 - 01:56 PM

Ah... Sixties Revisited.

Sticker on back of car 'Discs'... LoL
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Wallsend?.....it's not the End of the Walled ;<)

35942490325_0815d58667.jpgSUCKS


#74 OFFLINE   Joey spud

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Posted 07 December 2018 - 11:45 AM

The lime green stop faster pads are now fitted and look a bit racey.
While i was playing with the brakes i thought it wouldn't hurt to flush out the old fluid with some nice new clean dot4 stuff.

A while back i bought a cheap brake bleeder thing off the bay that you connected up to an air line and the bleed nipple then pulled the trigger a vacuum was created and it sucked out the old fluid and as long as you kept the reservoir topped up all was well.
So before i started the suck i emptied the reservoir (the best i could) of its old fluid and added some fresh.

It works well but you need a good constant bit of puff from your compressor and a good tight seal on the bleed nipple.

All in i pulled through about two litres of clean fluid from the four corners of the car so i am hoping the brakes once bedded in will be ok now.

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Said tool in action on my sons old Supra that a ''Jap car specialist'' couldn't get a decent brake pedal on so had basically given up.

The rear calipers were handed with a big L and R cast on them but were fitted arse about face so the bleed screws were now below the brake hose and not above so you could never get the air out of them.

Calipers swapped over and all was good.

 

 

 

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Also fitted the twin exit tail pipe that came with the car.

it looks a bit silly but hey ho..


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#75 OFFLINE   Joey spud

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Posted 08 December 2018 - 05:14 PM

Although the rust holes are now history looking under the little Daihatsu revealed a lot of surface corrosion that if left would surely bite me on the arse later so it was out with the grinder powered wire brush and various chiesels to clean away anything dodgey before giving it a good soak with the rust treatment.

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Some grotty bits after scraping the worst bits back to good metal.

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And here's some bits after the rust treatment.

 

I do like this rust treatment but it does slow progress down somewhat and the weather has been utter shite too,but i think that is all the corroded bits now revealed.
 

Between the rain and putting up Fairy lights etc i got underneath again used the zinc rich red oxide stuff followed by the shiney black chassis paint to cover it all up.

 

I had been buying my Stone chip paint in 500cc rattle cans which was starting to get a tad expensive so i wheeled the compressor down from the shed,dusted off my shultz gun and bought a couple of one litre stone chip canisters instead so i could really go in big.


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#76 OFFLINE   Joey spud

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Posted 08 December 2018 - 05:37 PM

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Stone chipped to within an inch of its life.

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I picked a dry,not too windy day and waited for the neighbours cars to leave the proximity and gave the underside a serious coating of the black stuff.

Happy with my results i went inside for a celebratory Baked Potato and Fursty Ferret only to return later and find the stone chip had reacted with the shiny chassis paint and gone sort of crinkly in places.
It was then that i remembered why i had stopped using it on my Scimitar chassis and bunged the stuff out of sight up the shed.

After letting everything harden for a few days i went over it again but this time with a bit more restraint just dusting the stone chip on in thin layers.
This sorted it out and it now looks rather Dandy.

Then it was out with an inch brush and an appliction of a bean can (or three) of Waxoyl to give it even more chance of surviving till next winter.

I also found some 5mm wheel spacers up the shed and will give them a go too.

I basically just need a pair of tyres now and it's ready for a MOT.
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