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Emblems topic - also contains shite on film


pshome

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Real men will have fingermarks on their negatives :mrgreen:

 

Yes, from all the times you paw the film and fingerprint it while stuffing it onto a plastic developing reel-especially if the reel isn't bone dry.

 

With that said, stainless is all over the place in terms of how easy it is to load. Cheap no-name reels with the slightest ding can frustrate you to no end. A lot of folks swear by Nikor reels, but for 35mm I only use English-made Hewes reels. They are a dream to load, and seem to virtually load themselves. I use Nikors for 120, although I've not really used a BAD 120 reel. I'm still looking for a good 220 reel-a lot of times I give in and end up using plastic for 220 since the only stainless one I have is a no-name and I usually end up kinking the film.

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You obvioulsy never tried an AP self feed spiral. You slide the film start in at light and then, in the dark,  feed it in by simply twisting the spiral. Takes less than a minute for a 35mm roll, super easy, no frust, never fails. Unloading is done by taking the two halfs apart with a twist in the oppsite direction. They work great, much better than Jobo, dunno about Paterson.

 

post-5425-0-97717600-1541529781_thumb.jpg

 

P.S.

 

Happy to see some shiters are into analog film, show your pics!

-

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Here's a shot made on some very expired but frozen Velvia 50 using a 4x5 Pacemaker Speed Graphic with a 135mm f/4.5 Raptar lens(Tessar-type). I don't recall the specific conditions, but it was done at around f/22 and with a few degrees of forward tilt to get all of the car in focus.

 

Since no labs around here develop sheet film, I did this myself using the Arista.edu E-6 kit. It's a fun process-I send off all of my color 35mm and most of my roll film, but the sheet film gets done at home and I usually throw in some roll film as I typically don't have enough sheet film to use the chemistry to exhaustion. I keep everything-the developing tank and all the chemical bottles-in the bathtub as E-6 is done at 40.5ºC. The first developer is the only one where the time and temperature are absolutely critical(all other steps are done to completion, so if in doubt just add a bit of extra time), and considering that a full run of E-6 takes around an hour, the temperature does drop.

 

Also, wet E-6 emulsion is amazingly fragile. I think we get spoiled by modern B&W emulsions considering that, even though you can scratch them easily enough, you're not going to inflict serious damage to them when wet unless you do something like take your fingernail and try to scrape emulsion off. Put too much pressure on E-6 and you can distort it.

 

One of these days, I'll buy a Jobo to actually make this job somewhat easier.

 

4x5%20Velvia%20frame%202%20copy_zpsvcosr

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  • 2 weeks later...

You obvioulsy never tried an AP self feed spiral. You slide the film start in at light and then, in the dark,  feed it in by simply twisting the spiral. Takes less than a minute for a 35mm roll, super easy, no frust, never fails. Unloading is done by taking the two halfs apart with a twist in the oppsite direction. They work great, much better than Jobo, dunno about Paterson.

 

attachicon.gifspiral.jpg

 

P.S.

 

Happy to see some shiters are into analog film, show your pics!

-

When I did some printing with the old man's gear(he did a lot in the 70s and 80s) I found his Paterson self-feeding spiral dead easy to use with 35mm; IIRC it's adjustable as I used it to do some 120 I had lying about, although getting 120 on the spiral was a bit more fiddly.

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  • 2 weeks later...

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