Sold 1996 - BMW - 750cc - Triple - BMW K75 Ultima - Motorcycle

[Bfg]

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My early retirement plans involve selling-up to live on my old catamaran (ie. get out of paying rent and poll tax, etc., for the next x-number of years / the rest of my life) ..but the boat won't be habitable for another nine months yet.  In the meantime I'm seriously struggling with the prospect of selling everything I've wanted and worked to afford over the years.  But I'm running out of savings - so I need to do something. 

 

The Yugoslavian Citroen Ami-Super owes me much more than I could sell her for, so she'll have to be kept - to earn her keep (which she has been doing these passed months) and most of my remaining bikes need work on them before I could sell those for decent money.  So my ever faithful BMW K75 Ultima, with full pannier kit, is in line for being put on the market - for sale.  

 

 

^ photo taken in May this year after being in store for the previous seven years.  You can re-read the posts here on the bikeshite thread < here >  < here >  and < here >.   I subsequently used the bike for a month ..and then the farmer scraped and widened the farm track I live down.  With the very dry summer, the loose soil with stones on the lane was just too dangerous for me to ride (on a fully-faired road bike).  After a few thunder storms last month and subsequent decent volumes of rain the lane is rideable again, and so the bike was used a couple more times., but that's all.  

 

Before I put her on the open market I thought I'd first ask if anyone is interested here.  If so, please look at my previous posts and examine those photos, and you'll get a fair idea as to her condition. In the meantime I'll have a look around and see if I can ascertain a fair value.

 

By the way.. before she was put into hibernation for all those years she did take me across Europe to visit friends in Germany and then down to others in Slovenia.  I camped half the time during the trip, which was a very pleasant in BMW comfort behind the excellent fairing.  I then had a superb ride back through the Dolomites and Alps.  A couple of years later I used her for my Advanced Riders.  She's a very capable bike with a great presence on the road, and more nimble handling / better braking than the K100's.  I just know I'm going to regret selling her ..but I could say that about almost everything I now have 'to clear' for life in a boat.

 

Non-standard / optional parts include :

. belly pan fairing (modified from the K75S).

. tank / knee pads

. heated handlbar grips

. fork gaiters (to protect the sliders).

. stainless braided brake hoses.

. the fuel and temperature gauges have been moved from the handlebars to being in the leg parts of the fairing (but I never got around to reconnecting them !).   NB. I still have the original handlebar brackets should the buyer want to take the bike back to the original Ultima layout.

. Spyball Alarm

. engine crash bars

. mud flap

Extra items not seen in the previous photos include :

. 12volt auxiliary socket

. colour matched panniers and top box

. lots of documented history / paperwork.

. original BMW toolkit,

. BMW owners handbook

. Haynes Workshop Manual

 

NB. not included in this sale - I'll sell these separately.

. full set of BMW soft luggage to fit inside those cases. 

. Books in mint condition : 'BMW K-series Motorcycles' by Mick Walker & Peter Dobson. And also CycleWorld (roadtests, 

  history, etc) 'On BMW 1981 - 1986'

        plus various brochures / magazines / articles of the period.

 

Drop me a line if seriously interested  ..with a fair offer ?

Bfg.  

[Bfg]

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oh, MOT at the beginning of June with no advisories.  Registration N377 ESR.  The odometer presently reads 56,764 miles. I used the bike for going to work on the boat yesterday. And if I recall I bought the bike with either 24 or 27 thousand miles on the clock. 

[purplebargeken]

I always wanted one of these back 'in the day'.

 

Lovely

[Bfg]

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I'm likewise in that majority.  I tend to buy things I already know I like ..and so I look after them and keep them for years.  It's a 'content' way of life rather than exciting    But as a consequence I'm never in touch with current prices, especially for what I consider 'modern vehicles'.  I'm open to best offer and discussion.

 

I have been asked via PM about the clutch. My reply " I used the bike on Monday and, for the first time since I've put her back on the road - the clutch slipped.  I'm guessing this was because I pulled out of a junction and a car (supposedly in a 30mph speed limit) approached me very much more rapidly than I might have anticipated, so I opened her up much more than for normal smooth riding, to ensure safe vehicle-distance between us. 

 

So the answer is - yes the clutch is on its way out.  I'm confident the bike would ride from one end of the country to the other, without issue - if one were to ride modestly, but I'd guess it would glaze over if one were to ride spiritedly* or in a hilly area.

 

Naturally a clutch being needed will be reflected in the price.

 

Bfg.    

[plasticvandan]

Not for one moment am I using this as a guide price,but my dad has justt bought a k75 with 11 months mot for £350. I couldn't get a c90 for that! One of the few " big" bikes I've ridden,and probably one of the very few contenders that would prize me off my MZ.

[Bfg]

Not for one moment am I using this as a guide price,but my dad has justt bought a k75 with 11 months mot for £350. I couldn't get a c90 for that! One of the few " big" bikes I've ridden,and probably one of the very few contenders that would prize me off my MZ.

 

Thank you, perhaps you would like me to send you my home address ..so you can personally deliver that knee into my bollocks ?

[plasticvandan]

As I said,I'm not suggesting that as a guide price,as his will be a neglected winter hack,more a comment on how daft bike prices are,as the flying brick is a very capable bike,and the more my dad talk about his,the more I think about taking the plunge and getting one.

I would guess this one should be in the £750-1300 bracket,they vary so wildly it's hard to put a solid figure on it

[Cavcraft]

Unfortunately, without a price you’re probably going to get a few leg joints in the knackers, so to speak.

I don’t believe Dan was doing that anyway, though.

[Bfg]

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My sincere apologies for being vague regarding a value.  I've honestly been too busy to give it much thought.  And perhaps because I hate selling things I still like & value, I've probably been avoiding the matter.  I also assumed that anyone who might be keen on owning such a fine stead would be more aware of prices than I am.  However, thanks to a few kindly souls on the Bikeshite thread - the recent prices I've seen for the K75RT Ultima model are £1750 for the one on Ebay six weeks ago, and €2900 (almost £2600) for one in France.  As suggested - the K75 Ultima spec. does seem to command a little higher values than other K75's. They were also the last of the series and so younger than most.  This bike does have new battery and tyres, etc. and quite a few value-adding extras. She was MOT'd in June, with no advisories.

 

Checking my files - I am the second owner, the first being up an Ian Gordon Smith of St.Andrews, Scotland.  The bike was traded in to John Clark - BMW dealer, Tayside, with 25,321 miles on the clock.  The colour is Arctic Silver and this includes the pannier and top box.  I have the original toolkit and both sets of keys. 

 

Aside from consumables like battery, tyres, and oils, the only other thing I've changed was the rubber buffers in the alternator's coupling. Oddly I've had to do this several times over the 30,000 miles I've ridden the bike.  Otherwise the bike has been faultlessly reliable and always easy to start. The only other things I know of, have both been mentioned in previous posts, those being the clutch and the ABS warning light being on (..which may simply need the error code resetting after it was low on brake fluid. I would have done this but my local bike dealer doesn't have a plug-in for this bike). The exhaust is of course stainless steel so that's fine. Cosmetically the bike reflects it being 22 years old, unrestored but well cared for.  The (lexan ?) windshield has some hazy patches but so far as I've noticed no crazing or cracks, and the lacquer is flaking off the tank badges.  I have not tarted the bike up with an array of LED auxiliary lights, nor even glossy sheen over the vinyl or tyre walls to sell it.  In fact having been laid up - she's only been washed once in the past 7 years ! 

 

So, I'm thinking I'd be happy with £1500 or thereabouts, as long as I don't get hassles or comebacks.  I'm too busy and too tired for any of that.  This evening I'll put her on CarandClassic.co.uk for £2000 or nearest offer and see what comes of it.

 

The bike is over here near Ipswich, Suffolk / East Anglia.  She is road legal and I'm sure is perfectly capable of covering the length and breadth of the country - to her new home, as long as the clutch is considered and acceleration revs are kept modest.  If you are interested and want to contact me directly - then please email me : Bfg here at gmail dot com .  Sorry, but test rides only on receipt of both parts of your driving licence, and with evidence of fully-comprehensive insurance cover ..on a bike you don't own. The dirt track I live down is still treacherous with loose stones.  I'm sure you understand.

 

Hope that clarifies most question.

Bfg.

[Guest Hooli]

Useless post  - Driving licences issued for the last few years don't have two parts anymore, they've scrapped the paper bit.

[castros_bro]

Useless post  - Driving licences issued for the last few years don't have two parts anymore, they've scrapped the paper bit.

 

The do have two parts still, one is plactic photo thingie (useful for opening Yale locks) ((other locks are available)) and the second bit is a code from the DVLA for a third party to access your current points record online or via telephone. If you try to hire a car etc. you'll need to supply both parts.  Also, fascinatinglybong,  the older paper license is still valid till holder is aged 70  as in DVLA  "Old style paper driving licences issued before the photocard was introduced in 1998 will still be valid and should not be destroyed". Also I don't want another BMW as mine has only two owners from new, me and the French Police.

[Guest Hooli]

Ok, they don't have two physical parts that bfg could hold in his hand.

[Uncle Jimmy]

Weren't these known as the 'flying brick' amongst the bike fraternity?

[Cavcraft]

These were the de rigueur bike for the high mileage/tour the world gang back in the day. GLWTS, looks a lovely thing.

[Guest]

I've owned a few "K"s now and really rate them, they are farkin ugly, but surprisingly nimble, solid and quite different to a UJM. The 75 is a nicer bike than the K100, or K1100- the engine is a real turbine, very smooth. You don't need a computer to reset the ABS- just earth one of the pins on the plug for a few seconds, if it's ABS 2. Usually faults are caused by a low voltage after starting. Replacing a clutch is a big job, but fairly straightfoward- you really need to split the bike in 2 like in my pic below- I had to do it twice as I put too much lube on the splines...I bought the 1100LT for a Euro tour, but it gave me proper backache, syu sit pretty much bolt upright. My first K was very rare... it was BROWN! I'd say a good K75 Ultima was £1500+ all day long, there is still a good market for them, my brown one sold to a Canadian pilot whou bought it for his european holidays.

 

P.S. If I remember correctly, Ian Gordon Smith was the regional organiser for the BMW owners club for Fife.

 

 

 

K1100LT, with 124,000 miles.

 

Clutch change....

 

[Guest Hooli]

Dry clutch & the same layout as a Pan then?

[Guest]

Yup, when in there check splines and gear indicator too, car type clutch but odd spring setup similar to an old Saab 99/900. My later R1100 had a swing up frame to make it easier, on the K's ABS equipped ones are much more of a faff as there is quite a bit to move out of the way.

 

Oh, and the exhaust studs are a bloody nightmare..

[Momentary Lapse Of Reason]

Here one I owned earlier,

comfy, nimble for the size.

GLWTS

 

[Bfg]

.

Thanks BC & MLOR..  I once had a brown K75S  but more green tinted than yours which looks quite reddish.  In any case it really suited the slimmer model ..in a very understated way. Very much a dark horse.  

 

I also had a K100RT in a similar but different colour - but even more green - so in daylight it looked quite like metallic olive green. Quite a Panzer that one.!   But I reckon the metallic black K100LT I had was the most elegant looking of all.  The others I had were a light metallic blue K75C,  an all white ex-police K75RT, and then this one in its spritely Arctic Silver.  Each gave me excellent service and pleasant riding over many thousands of miles.

 

Also thanks for the other snippets of useful information, I didn't know that about the bike's original / former owner - Mr Ian Gordon Smith.

- - -

 

Would you happen to know the difference in spec between the RT models and the LT models.?  

 

The K75 Ultima was supposedly to LT spec but instead of changing the code - BMW gave the model the 'Ultima(te)' end-of-line name.  Although there appear to be RT badges on some bikes - mine from original has none other than K75.   Some 21,000 Ultima were made for the 1996 market.  Reportedly BMW had dropped the K75 from its range because they were as expensive to produce as the K100 (..the triple features a counter-balance shaft to make it smoother and less torque reaction when blipping the throttle).  But many police forces preferred the '75 rather than the K100, so dealers pressured BMW.. and the bike was reintroduced for just one more year.  For the private sector it became this more expensively spec'd model, which is traditionally reflected in higher second-hand prices.

 

Certainly, items which were previously optional became standard on the Ultima, but in truth I really don't know what is what.  I might only guess : the paint and seat colours, the additional instruments, the tilt windscreen, and the neat three spoke wheels (much easier to clean).  I assume ABS was optional, as was the heated handlebar grips, and radio. Likewise the engine protection bars and soft baggage.  The usual nice little BMW touches are I presume were standard, things like self cancelling indicators, the power socket for heated clothing, etc.     Some Ultima's appear with black rather than colour coded panniers. Would that have been an option or else are those bikes the RT model.?  (..I'm asking here rather than pointing any fingers). 

 

"You don't need a computer to reset the ABS- just earth one of the pins on the plug for a few seconds,"   any particular pin ? as there are four or six pins to chose from and I wouldn't want to fry the ABS controller.  

 

Bfg.  

[Guest]

I think the Ultima  had everything, basically a K1100LT SE but 3 cyl 750cc. This was the only other K to have an electric screen. RT was Renn touring , sporty touring, and the LT was Luxus touring, luxury touring, just spec differences really but the LT's had longer, more swept back rubber mounted handlebars and a comfort seat, and usually a radio,map light and extra gauges.

 

The ultima had the 3 spoke K1100 wheels too, ABS2 from 94 on.

 

Try this..

 

Resetting ABS1

• Locate the diagnostic connector on the right frame rail, under the seat. Remove it from the blanking plug.
• Insert one end of 20 cm wire into the middle socket of this connector.
• Ground the other end firmly to a metal bolt in the area (and keep grounded).
• Hold the ABS button down as you turn the ignition on. You should see the lights flash together as normal.
• Keep holding the ABS button down for about 8 seconds. The ABS light will stay on solid.
• Release the ABS button.
• Turn off ignition, remove wire.

Resetting ABS2 on early bike

• Locate the diagnostic connector under the seat. Remove it from the blanking plug.
• Insert one end of 20 cm wire into the middle socket of this connector.
• Ground the other end firmly to a metal bolt in the area (and keep grounded).
• Turn on ignition. You should see the lights flash alternately.
• Hold ABS button down for about 8 seconds. The bottom ABS light will stay on, and the top one off.
• Release the ABS button. If you have successfully reset the ABS, both ABS lights will come on. If you have failed to count to 8, or your ground is not good, the top ABS light will stay off.
• Turn off ignition, remove wire.

[somewhatfoolish]

Shiny. These triples are fabby, all discerning genocidal KGB operatives plotting to blow up fictitious USAF bases in east anglia recommend them.

[Bfg]

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^  Oo'Kay !  Thank you for that.

 

...Nurse., SWF needs to take his medicine again

 

 

[Guest Hooli]

I think he means this.

 

[Bfg]

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Oh thanks Hooli ..I was unfamiliar with that image,   which tbh looks altogether rather camp rather than sinister.  not sure whether its his posture or the shiny PVC clothing with its white zip..

 

..both he or the bike would however look better with belly pan fairing 

 

 

what is the film ?  oh just found it  ..' The Forth Protocol'

[Wack]

I always wanted one of these back 'in the day'.

 

Lovely

We went to the lancashire show, the MG/Rover dealer had a pre production model on display with a big crowd round it , it looked very nice back then, must've been 93/94 maybe

[Bfg]

 

I think the Ultima  had everything, basically a K1100LT SE but 3 cyl 750cc. This was the only other K to have an electric screen. RT was Renn touring , sporty touring, and the LT was Luxus touring, luxury touring, just spec differences really but the LT's had longer, more swept back rubber mounted handlebars and a comfort seat, and usually a radio,map light and extra gauges.

 

The ultima had the 3 spoke K1100 wheels too.  ABS2 from 94 on.

 

Try this..

 

Resetting ABS1

• Locate the diagnostic connector on the right frame rail, under the seat. Remove it from the blanking plug.
• Insert one end of 20 cm wire into the middle socket of this connector.
• Ground the other end firmly to a metal bolt in the area (and keep grounded).
• Hold the ABS button down as you turn the ignition on. You should see the lights flash together as normal.
• Keep holding the ABS button down for about 8 seconds. The ABS light will stay on solid.
• Release the ABS button.
• Turn off ignition, remove wire.

Resetting ABS2 on early bike

• Locate the diagnostic connector under the seat. Remove it from the blanking plug.
• Insert one end of 20 cm wire into the middle socket of this connector.
• Ground the other end firmly to a metal bolt in the area (and keep grounded).
• Turn on ignition. You should see the lights flash alternately.
• Hold ABS button down for about 8 seconds. The bottom ABS light will stay on, and the top one off.
• Release the ABS button. If you have successfully reset the ABS, both ABS lights will come on. If you have failed to count to 8, or your ground is not good, the top ABS light will stay off.
• Turn off ignition, remove wire.

 

 

Bloody fantastic !!!  ABS2 ..It worked. 

 

I can't tell you how pleased I am to have something go right. 

 

My first try didn't work so I tried another hex-head bolt for the earth ..and then it did.  I thank you so very much. 

 

 

 

The ABS flashing warning light now works as it should, going off when it should.    The system was and is all good, the electronic diagnostics just needed resetting (..after having a flat battery). 

 

Unfortunately the bike will still have to be sold, as I'm fast running out of money, but that'll have to wait until the dirt farm track I live down is settled enough to get the bike to a road.

 

Again thank you so very much.

 

Bfg

[Wack]

I think he means this.

 

4th protocol.jpg

 

 

When I rode a bike I had leathers like that, well when I say like that, some sizes larger, imagine somebody making that suit air tight then 20 minutes on a foot pump and you'll get the picture

[Bfg]

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Well.,  its taken me a time but the BM is now advertised on Car & Classics and as a classified on Ebay.  

 

sad daze

 

 

< here > and < here >

 

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. .  yeah I know it's long winded but I reckon most don't know half as much as there is to know about the K-series bikes. 

 

 

 

867 views

[bolognasal spray]

On a side note, who is Ian Gordon Smith (see above)?

[Bfg]

"The former owner (of this bike) was Mr Ian Gordon Smith who I’ve been advised used to be the regional organiser for the BMW Owners Club in Fife, Scotland."