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1951 Pontiac Chieftain


PhilA

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Cars of this era were designed to take into account the fact that there far more un-metalled roads than there are now..hence the need for huge ground clearance

Not really, otherwise old Saabs and Volvos would be miles off the ground as would Traction Avant and DS. I'm not sure whether all yanks had hypoid diffs by this time and some were still built on a frame. One of the Hudson Hornets innovations was it's 'step over' perimeter frame, allowing the body to be much lower.

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There's still plenty roads in this country that are just dirt. Most of the highways here are either cement or asphalt over cement. Long travel, softly sprung, casually dampened suspension with a heavy body (which leads to the wallowing, tyre-squealing early fifties characteristics) was a positive thing for early highway use. Soaks up the THOMP-THOMP, passssccchhhhhh, THOMP-THOMP, passsssccchhhhhh of mile after mile of concrete.

 

Phil

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Not really, otherwise old Saabs and Volvos would be miles off the ground as would Traction Avant and DS. I'm not sure whether all yanks had hypoid diffs by this time and some were still built on a frame. One of the Hudson Hornets innovations was it's 'step over' perimeter frame, allowing the body to be much lower.

 

Think pretty much all mainstream American stuff of this era had a seperate chassis.........Hudson had a perimeter frame, as you say, and was considered really radical. I think that we, on this side of the pond, had better roads than in rural America..................

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Yeah, I'm going to. Most of the work done on the car has been done well.

 

One positive thing, I got the catalog for California Pontiac Restoration company with the relay. There's so many repro parts available, you can almost build a shell up from them now- I would say panels aside, the parts availability for this car is a pleasant breeze compared to trying to find bits for the Renault.

 

Phil

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Employed a little help and got the horn wire pulled down through the column (first pushed a stout wire up, crimped to it then pulled the new one down).

 

Gently tapped the bearing in place. Shall put a heat shrink over the wire where it comes out then clamp it down. Bullet connectors next.

 

Phil

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Yeah the lighting woes are because RapidStart systems (a close relative of the British Quickstart system) need a good ground along the tube as they dont provide any high voltage kick to get a tube going like Preheat/switch start does

 

in the UK we had MCF-A tubes which had a conductive stripe down the tube connecting to 1 end cap shell that would be grounded by the lamp holder this was for applications like the London underground where you could not get a good ground close to the tube glass wall

 

a fun thing you can do if you have a Rapidstart/Quickstart/SRS system where the tube is not striking up properly is just bring your hand close to it, or stroke your tube gently (hehe) and you will act as a ground causing the tube to strike :)

 

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Digression there; back to the car.

 

Measured up for new fork terminals.

 

They're #8 stud (0.16").

 

post-5454-0-75246300-1540087516_thumb.jpg

 

Checked the fuse box and they're the same. Found some right angle fork terminals for the fuse box, too. I think I'll need a funky crimp tool for them also. Regular fork terminals will have it looking weird and majorly untidy.

 

Phil

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That's far more readable than many BMC/BL wiring diagrams!

Not tempted to rip it all out and wire it in your own way? Can't be many circuits on it.

Trouble with that is while you are correct and there's about a much wiring in it as there is your MGB, there's only a few paths for things to take though the firewall. This is mostly so I can get into my head what's going to be loomed together where, in what gauge and color.

 

From the engine bay there are, uh, 4 legs of loom. Engine loom, lights loom, rear of car loom and heater loom.

 

Inside most things go to one of these, some go in and out of the firewall in a rather pointless fashion to external fuses. All of it has been ripped at and is horribly messy right now.

 

So, I'll be keeping mostly to the original paths because they make sense but using modern wire, and stuff in multiple colors to try aid future troubleshooting.

 

Phil

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Bought the correct bulbs for the reverse lights (30W) and fitted them.

Silverstars so they've got that funny pale blue covering. They didn't have the regular ones.

 

post-5454-0-49290600-1540142625_thumb.jpg

 

post-5454-0-66908700-1540151539_thumb.jpg

 

Also got a replacement for the license plate lamp that I accidently smashed. Bought some soap and a brush to clean up the upholstery.

 

Phil

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