Buy a mk1 Cav coupe. Much better value, and not common as mook.
He will be able to practice his welding a bit more on those front chassis swan necks
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Posted 11 August 2018 - 08:00 PM
Buy a mk1 Cav coupe. Much better value, and not common as mook.
Posted 11 August 2018 - 08:03 PM
I think it’s the steel that was used back in the day. German cars used better quality steel apparently, the U.K. built cars tended to rot quicker and worse.
Mines a Halewood U.K car! Though oddly the main chassis itself was almost completely untouched by rust, even the strut tops in mine are both original. Spring hangers both original, though one did need a small repair. It was almost everything else that was bollocksed!
All mk3’s (I think!) are German built as production shifted fully to Cologne when they were introduced. I think the last two or three years worth of Capri’s were only sold here, everyone else had seemingly moved on!
Posted 11 August 2018 - 08:13 PM
He will be able to practice his welding a bit more on those front chassis swan necks
Posted 11 August 2018 - 08:16 PM
Well if you want someone to talk you out of it im not your man either, they are great and only appreciating in value, if you can weld and don't mind the graft its perfect for you
I can weld medium and heavy gauge steel assemblies MMA and MIG quite happily all day long, And quite happy gas welding thinner stuff on the bench. My concern is that i have very little experience of welding thin body panels - all the ones I've done previously have been full panel swaps and mostly spot welded either with a spot welder or mig'ing through where i drilled out the old spot welds.
Changing a rear arch on this for example scares me a bit with panel distortion etc - I'd probably do what dans cars previous owner had done and joggle it in and stitch weld it!
Buy a mk1 Cav coupe. Much better value, and not common as mook.
Luckily there isn't a mk1 cav sat the other side of the road for sale - if there was it would already have been bought probably.
Have a look here for an idea on panel prices. They do stock some genuine panels still too... http://www.steelpane...ord/capri-mk-3/
A lot of my panels came from here. Including a pair of new rear quarter panels. Feel free to wince at the price of those!
I got very lucky with a pair of new unused genuine Ford mk2 wings off eBay. Bought before prices went mad luckily.
The difference between genuine and non genuine is pretty significant when you try fitting them. Non gen can require hours of fettling to get right which adds labour costs. They’re also often thinner gauge metal than original panels.
By comparison my genuine wings pretty much fell on and we’re very close to perfect straight away. It costs more to get them but you save on labour rates getting them fitting and looking right.
Cheers for the link - The exploded diagrams are quite handy actually! I had been looking at the ex-pressed panels yesterday and got a bit scared by the pricing - £300 for a inner sill? I see they do a bare sill without the gussets around the drain holes or captive nuts which is only £100+vat which seems a lot more acceptable but still soon adds up!
I have big concerns as my default position on everything is to do it 110%. Better than factory - but thats what your doing to your car and the figures involved are just scary, I have a large boat (just spent over a grand on engine spares this week alone) the Red Rebel which was a body off and all NOS parts but is still due a second respray due to poor choice of paint first time round, The SS1 which was only supposed to be a brief fling but is still here two years later - Then all the "shared projects" which are with joe on the mainland.
I don't have time or funding to sink 10K+ into this and I don't know if that means i'll be disappointed by it.
Whilst true a couple of years ago the ridiculous rise in prices have largely removed the cost issue. Thy have finally caught on (sadly for those of use who have always loved them) and I see projects far worse than mine SELLING fro £2k, I paid £600 three years ago. Parts fit is variable like many aftermarket bits but most are ok with a bit of time, just don’t expect to drop them on in minutes. The front wings are BIG and take a bit of work to get right.
Sadly this will cost me somewhat more than £600. At sub a grand it would already be bought and I wouldn't have started this thread!
Mind you given the prices of intact dashboard tops and decent front wings (even aftermarket) and the prices paid by the "omg type9" crowd on eBay i think you could probably get a grand breaking it for parts...
Posted 11 August 2018 - 08:28 PM
True. Mind you at least 70's/80's Fords are well known for their lack* of ginger issues.
Posted 11 August 2018 - 08:34 PM
Posted 11 August 2018 - 08:35 PM
Posted 11 August 2018 - 08:38 PM
A guy I used to do work for bought a Cav coupe, it was a T reg in metallic dark blue. It looked gorgeous but it was a patchwork underneath. I’d still of had it though!Buy a mk1 Cav coupe. Much better value, and not common as mook.
Posted 11 August 2018 - 08:52 PM
I'm with Dan here. If the car in question can be made viable for 12 months or so within time and budget, then you might as well go for it, if you don't bond with it you won't lose. But you only have to read his thread. A proper restoration is a massive undertaking, which it doesn't look like you have time for. It'll help if you're not relying on this car for work, of course.
GLWTS everyone!
Fashion Victim: 2018 Suzuki SX (new wheelchair bus)
Huggy Bear: 1973 Cadillac Coupe de Ville - FOR SALE
Tripod: 2014 three-wheeled walker. Temporary I hope!
Mr ramrod is the nicest person in the world (Chompy_snake, 2015)
Eddy is the finest fellow you will ever meet, FACT (Djimbob, 2017)
Posted 11 August 2018 - 09:05 PM
1994 Range Rover Classic "The Crying Pumpkin" cried off, rusty
2003 Jaaaag XJ 260K miles and counting
2000 Ford Mondeo Verona 1.8 pez FOR SALE Now with new As owner
2000 Ford Puma 1.7 - Roffled and now with new AS owner
1968 AMC Rebel SST convertible (working and road legal but in limp home mode)
1967 AMC Rebel SST convertible (superior body and originality being slowly raided for spares for the '68) Off road for at least the last 25 years
1956 Chevy 210 4 door hardtop - bought in 2000 and still in my garage - I even do a bit of work on it occasionally - long term project
2005 MG ZT-T awaiting completion of engine transplant of spare V6 after OMG HGF on the engine that "never has that problem"
2005 Land Rover Discovery - for long trips and moving engines
Posted 11 August 2018 - 09:29 PM
I estimate this car needs £3000 maybe £4000 spending on it to get it rite and when this is done it will be wotrth about £1500!!
Posted 11 August 2018 - 10:08 PM
Pintos aren’t amazing but they’re easy to work on plus you get the satisfaction of spending 6 grand trying to get it to make 150bhp.
Posted 11 August 2018 - 10:45 PM
Do it the autoshite way and replace the pinto with a Peugeot 2.3 diesel from a Sierra LOL
Posted 11 August 2018 - 11:07 PM
Posted 12 August 2018 - 02:26 AM
My dad used to have a white 1.6 Laser (not his first midlife crisis car either, he had a Scimitar before it). He sold it after he had some work done on the diff, but they somehow forgot to put any oil in it, so it locked up. It was replaced with a K11 Micra, that my mum hated and almost immediately had replaced with a sad face Fiesta, that was a world of pain but she begrudgingly held on to for eight years, until it was worthless.
Never got so much as a sit in that Capri to my memory, we'd have used my mum's mk2 Fiesta to take me places at that point.
1994 Volvo 850 T5 - brittle plastic turbo bikewagon
1991 Honda Civic GL - smells nice
2009 Mini Cooper S - Mother Ghosty's
Posted 12 August 2018 - 01:24 PM
Pintos aren’t amazing but they’re easy to work on plus you get the satisfaction of spending 6 grand trying to get it to make 150bhp.
Posted 12 August 2018 - 10:20 PM
Posted 12 August 2018 - 11:01 PM
I can't afford a real one, so have one in small flavour, a mate did the graphics for me, he has several in his own collection, wheels are made from white metal. More detals in the shite in miniature thread in a bit LOL
Posted 12 August 2018 - 11:25 PM
Posted 12 August 2018 - 11:27 PM
Posted 13 August 2018 - 12:02 AM
What I would love to do if I had loads of cash is turn a very, very late Manta to look like a 1970s Cavalier GLS coupe to confuse the crap out of rivet counters
Posted 13 August 2018 - 06:24 AM
Posted 13 August 2018 - 06:26 AM
Thanks everyone. Plan is to stick it up on a lift at lunchtime and see whats lurking underneath, make sure its not completely out of my comfort zone.
If i think it looks doable without having to stick it on a rotisserie then I'll buy it and worry about the crippling financial implications later....
Posted 13 August 2018 - 08:19 AM
Posted 13 August 2018 - 08:33 AM
What I would love to do if I had loads of cash is turn a very, very late Manta to look like a 1970s Cavalier GLS coupe to confuse the crap out of rivet counters
Posted 13 August 2018 - 08:33 AM
(But a Manta is a much nicer car)
Posted 13 August 2018 - 09:37 AM
Like others have said if its got a ticket buy it and see how you get on with it. If you need to sell later you shouldn't have any trouble as these are always in demand.
The rot is always the biggest problem. Others have said they rot everywhere and they're not joking. Ford was/is the master of rot traps and the Capri Mk2/3 was probably their finest hour. I've never seen a shell with so many seams and joints exposed to the elements. We get all sorts of stuff through the workshop but the Fords usually need the most time in Fabrication. Check the following areas...
Back of headlamp bowels (mud trap)
Front valence base where it meets the rad box
Front chassis legs were the bumper irons go (never seen a Capri that didn't need these doing)
Top corner of front wings (mud trap)
Inner wing flitches (especially if wings have been replaced in the past)
A posts rot badly on the bulge at the bottom
Joint between floor pan and bulkhead on both sides (the seam is the wrong way round and grabs anything thrown up from the road).
Strut tops (always blown out and plated up)
Scuttle corners (moisture trap)
Front bottom corners of doors (moisture trap)
Sills (bad drainage and no protection from the factory)
Rear arches / inner wheel tub (another moisture trap)
Rear spring hanger under the back seat (very bad design and always rotten or rotting)
Base of tailgate (bad drainage and moisture trap)
Leading edge of bonnet
Rear chassis legs have usually gone on especially bad ones.
Heres an example of a typical Capri.
Its got all the usual problems and so far I've spent 70 hours just doing the passenger side floor, inner sill, A post and bulkhead. I'd guess this car will need 400 hours of metalwork at least.
This one is on the road to recovery. Long way to go yet though...
Posted 13 August 2018 - 09:45 AM
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