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Help Me Appraise My Cap And Rotor!


Shirley Knott

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Yes, I'm a neanderthal.

 

Despite routinely running sub £1k cars for more than a decade including near 30 year old MX5's etc, I've never owned anything ancient enough to run a distributer type set up. That is until I bought the 940....

 

Tonight I've whipped the cap and rotor off partly because maintenance= good craic and also because Mrs Eunos has gone out with Eunos Jnr and I'm slightly bored. This is what I've found....

 

1. Weird 'track' marks on the points...

 

 

28586651327_c8678b5d2c_b.jpg

 

 

2. Similar silver coloured areas of wear on the end of the rotor arm...

 

 

42756906114_e5dcb2ce7b_b.jpg

 

 

3. And some minor signs of oil leakage...

 

29602500728_9f3d6c010c_b.jpg

 

Worth mentioning both the cap/rotor are aftermarket 'Beru' items by the look and not 'proper' Volvo items and as mentioned, I'm clueless/unable to appraise them

 

Could a grown up step in please and let me know whether this all looks good?

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Thanks Shep :)

 

Meanwhile I've given the 'points' (Are they even called that?) and the rotor end a quick rub back with some sandpaper, now all look golden/good again...

 

 

29602735458_14ef1ed884_b.jpg

 

 

Just about to give them a quick spray with brake cleaner to freshen up and then re-fit.

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It’s normal to get a bit of blackening on both contacts on the cap and rotor. It just happens with time on cars with this style system.

As mentioned, your not meant to go mad with sandpaper, just give it a light rub back. I use a fibreglass pencil or scouring pad type stuff for cleaning contacts up.

Yours doesn’t look to bad really but make sure it’s clean and dust free before reuse.

 

This is what a bad one looks like...

 

post-3771-0-90920100-1531857498_thumb.jpeg

 

This is the one I removed from my 740 when I first got it.

The contact posts are burnt to buggery and actually worn well into the brass material. The cracked side was like that while on the car too! It was running still believe it or not, badly but running! The rotor arm was similarly past it.

The date stamp on that cap was 1987! Almost certainly the cars original part. It should have been changed years ago of course.

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Thanks chaps.

 

I've just given the whole lot a spray out to clean, dried and re-fitted. Feel slightly dubious about having gone at it with 80G sandpaper :ph34r: Either way all is back together now and the car runs/idles as before so no harm done *Crosses fingers*

 

Daft thing is there were no running issues as such and the old girl doesn't misfire etc, I simply got bored and thought I'd have a look :rolleyes:

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Don't use rough paper. I was told any marks can cause arcing. Just smooth paper. A V12 cap is a thing of beauty

This.

 

What happens if you use rough paper is it can cause a rough surface to the brass contacts. This can cause racing which makes things worse. It also creates a high resistance joint so you get heat and voltage drop.

If you go too mad it can also enlarge the gap between the cap contacts and rotor contacts which also isn’t good.

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^ I think this might well be an idea, reflecting on the comments others have made and given I've take 80G sandpaper to the original (I'm a Neanderthal as stated) I've perhaps completely unnecessarily taken a good part and borked it -_-

 

If only I'd been more patient and waited half an hour eh?

 

@Dan, did you fit genuine Volvo or aftermarket?

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^ I think this might well be an idea, reflecting on the comments others have made and given I've take 80G sandpaper to the original (I'm a Neanderthal as stated) I've perhaps completely unnecessarily taken a good part and borked it -_-

 

If only I'd been more patient and waited half an hour eh?

 

@Dan, did you fit genuine Volvo or aftermarket?

I fitted a non genuine part to mine, but I went for a decent brand not the cheapest one I could find.

The caps for some of these Volvo’s aren’t particularly cheap tbh. They’re quite a bit more than the ones for old Fords and stuff anyway.

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I might polish it up with some peek in case the concours d’elegance club du la cap distributeur collar me in Tesco’s for a snap inspection. Otherwise that’s all grand as is.

 

As long as there isn’t a tiny hairline crack running through it

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as the rotor should be the "-" side of the spark supply  , the spark  should be jumping from the rotor to the outer cap insert on its way to the spark plug  , to help this , make sure the edge of the rotor is nice and square and sharp to help the "-" ions leave the metal .......

 

same idea applies to most things dealing with high voltages ... lightning spikes for example , pilot light gas lighters , spark plugs ....

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Thanks Shep :)

 

Meanwhile I've given the 'points' (Are they even called that?) and the rotor end a quick rub back with some sandpaper, now all look golden/good again...

 

 

29602735458_14ef1ed884_b.jpg

 

 

Just about to give them a quick spray with brake cleaner to freshen up and then re-fit.

Don't rub too much off the rotor arm & dizzy cap contacts, there is meant to be a specific gap between the rotor arm & contacts. Sanding makes the gap bigger, weakening the spark as it has to jump further. BTW Beru is of the top German brands!
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Don't rub too much off the rotor arm & dizzy cap contacts, there is meant to be a specific gap between the rotor arm & contacts. Sanding makes the gap bigger, weakening the spark as it has to jump further. BTW Beru is of the top German brands!

 

Balls.

 

You're about he 5th person to say that. *Logs onto to EucroCarParts and and starts shopping for a new cap/rotor*

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If you rub too much off the rotor arm and cap it's been proven that it will cause Nuns to die and Kittens to get sick.

 

1000's of kittens have already been effected. New cap browsing in progress...

 

EDIT: Joking aside, I shall see with time/use if I have buggered the cap, if so not the end of the world I suppose.

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