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Wanted - Mini


BorniteIdentity

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sensible mods = electronic ignition and hi lo suspension adjustors and long centre branch manifold and rc30 exhaust

stupid mods = wide wheels and massive arches, bucket seats.

 

Go for as rust free and standard as possible unless the mods are done well.

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Easy. I swapped one by dropping the front subframe and then taking the engine out, reversal is er, the reverse. You can take them out through the top but access is er, tricky! Drop the subframe and lift the body. Really is dead easy.

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What era of Mini? There were some changes over their four decade production run.

 

In essence though, the only thing to really worry about is rust. Every part is available and cheap, every issue you could have is comprehensively documented online.

THE LEYLAND YRS

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In essence though, the only thing to really worry about is rust.

I'd also say crashing as well. Don't crash, you are sat in the crumple zone. Issigonis attitude to crash safety was that the cars have good brakes and handling. So if you do, it's your own fault.

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well every thing that has been said yo look for, has been said. and most of what i'll type below i'm sure you will already know. most of it is just common sense.

 

if you can, take the car for a bit of a test drive. mini's are a marmite car, some folks can get along with the rough ride and funny driving position, other people cannot get along with them. they might love the shape and look of the car, but its no good if you cannot comfortably drive it. 

 

so, what to look for?

 

rust..... rust.... and more rust. they can and do rust every where, just for fun! a car with a tired engine but a good body is better to have than one with a ropy, welded up body and a tricked up engine.

 

if looking to buy one, start at the bottom of the car. what are the outer sills like? does it still have the jacking points half way along? are they original ones if not, who changed them? did they just stick some cover sills over the original ones? the outer sills have a flute in them, and the factory ones will be open at the bottom of each flute. replacement ones tend to be closed.

 

can you lift the carpets up? look at the bottom of the heel boards and what state are the inner sills along insides of the doors in good order. if a set of cover sills are slapped on then chances are the inners will be shot.

 

look in the boot floor, any repairs along the back (or front if you have your head in the boot) of the floor under where the boot lid sits. under neath the car, what state is the back subframe in? replacements are availale (as is most stuff up to and including full new body shells) and not that dear to buy, though getting it fitted and painted does cost, a lot.

 

at the front of the car, what is the scuttle panel like under the windscreen like? any bubbling round the window is a PITA to fix.

 

look at the wings, factory wings there is a definate gap between them and the rest of the car, replacements ones will have a bead of sealer between the wing and the scuttle panel.

 

a-panels under the wings, and between the wing and the doors collect crap and rot out. replacemnts are easy to find, but difficult to fit properly. 

 

door bottoms go all too easily, but have a good look at how the doors actually fit to the car. are the gaps uniform all around the door? crash damage can show up as tight spots around the door appature, and this also  the case with the bonnet shuts.

 

with the car running, some rattle from the engine is to be expected as is some whining from the transmission. worn out gearboxes can and do jump out of gear and selecting gears can be an issue too, if the gearbox is shagged. looknin the radiator, or on a newer one the expansion tank. water looking like tea could be a silted up engine and rad. washing them out will usually solve the problem but the engine having an iron block and head can leave it fuill of rust if its not had antifreeze in it for a long time. look at the oil too, even fresh oil goes black pretty quickly, but it shouldn't be like tar.

 

personally too, when i have bought mini's i have looked for unmolested cars, closer to factory spec. so original seats, wheels etc are something i've looked for, and also what is the seller like? rough cars i think tend to go with rough sellers. otherwise best of luck!

 

post-18270-0-66299600-1530892433_thumb.jpg

 

i'll post this too, just as insperation.....

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anywhere with a curve, edge or bolt hole - check for Rust...

boot floor/ battery tray

wings 

A panels

door bottoms

pedals are also very tricky at first (smol and close)

swap engine in about 2 hours allowing for Tea break

Radiators need to be in 100% condition due to position

make sure it has the cover for the Dizzy as its straight in line of water

if it has Drums allround - Pray!!!

especially if no servo!!!

likes to mark it's territory like a Land rover!!

regulat services as oil is shared with gearbox..

 

would love another, but don't think I'll fit now LOL :D

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Thanks for all this.

 

I’ve had one before; a Morris branded 75 Car. It was sold to pay for our first child at the age of 21 and 19 respectively.

 

The boss likes this one. I’ve said I will only buy if she will definitely drive it. She’s keen, so this could be a nice distraction from the Sierra and a possible 190 replacement.

 

I’ve measured my tandem garage. If I can nudge down a wall that separates a corner off for a coal store, then it’s 28ft long. So could definitely fit a mini plus another car.

 

I’m going to speak to the dude tonight. Thanks !

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Poor modifications made by previous owners, such as chicken wire and newspaper sills, spam tins in the floor, radio wiring with no fuses, and filler where the rear subframe mounts should be. Usual Mini stuff.

 

Mechanically everything is pretty easy and it’s simple to make it look like any sort of Mini you want it to be. 1967 Cooper replica, 1990 Mini 30, fat wheels, thin wheels, it’s all simple stuff.

 

Would the plan be to maintain its 1970’s industrial strike action vibe?

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Great posts above. Surprised no one's mentioned rust.

 

On full lock check inside top corners of wings for build up of road crud, mine rusted through from inside because of this. By the time the paint bubbled it was too late. Around headlights inside too. Also check panel under rear bumper for the same. Russet Brown hides rust well, I recommend it.

 

Basically just check the whole body inside and out. Twice.

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Thanks guys.

 

I’m nervous because it’s more than I’ve ever spent on an unnecessary car, but I imagine they’re always going to be worth a couple of grand as a going concern? This one will soon be tax and MOT exempt too.

 

Wife seems fine about it. All a bit worrying really.

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Hard to check in a heatwave, but water leaks into the car are a common annoyance, and usually impossible to find or cure. Drum brakes often pull one way or another if not set up correctly (which is impossible as the adjuster will be seized up or rounded off or both.)

 

Massive fun on a dry day.

Damp days are misery, heater and demisters are noisy and useless.

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But if it's going in a garage and only used on nice days, then it shouldn't be a big worry about leakage. Not having a Sunroof/Webasto was the biggest mistake I made when buying my MGB GT. It's a car for nice days. Nice days are invariably dry.

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