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Long* running landy 88" project - Flocking hell


jakebullet

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Back in 2002 I bought this for £600:

 

post-4472-0-46644200-1530131849_thumb.jpg

 

At some point it's been thru land rover centre Huddersfield, thus the crappy "county" stripes and big side windows.

 

It didn't take long to realise it was fairly fucked so it went in the garage for a bit of fixing. It's still in the garage. It has to come out soon 'cos garage is in danger of collapse.

 

It's got a series 2a chassis plate, so could be a ring a ding ding series 3 for tax exempt. I like to think it's a genuine Trigger's broom series 2. It has bitsa traits like not having any matching glass triplex codes, the rear panels are showing blue paint under the grey & a military surplus 2 1/4 petrol instead of the diesel the chassis number suggests. I prefer the series 2 look so have binned off the series 3 wings / bonnet / front panel for series 2 parts. Going to keep the series 3 bulkhead, it's in better nick than the series 2 one I've got.

 

The chassis is shot to shit. So I've replaced every outrigger and liberally applied 3mm plate. It's a bit more sturdy now. I had the gearbox out so I could replace the cross member with a removable one, and patch up the chassis in the general area. Trouble is I lost the holes for the hand brake pivot, and then lost my template for drilling new ones.

 

Plan b: stick the gearbox back in, connect up hand brake, put the pivot where it feels right. Fail! I can't drill the holes on the inside of the chassis without taking the gearbox back out. Sod it, weld it on (bonus Y tho?):

post-4472-0-13088200-1530133452_thumb.jpg

 

Also been doing gearbox archaeology. Had the usual 1/4" thick layer of mud / oil combo, which I've traced to someone put one of the selector seals inside the gearbox instead of in the retaining groove so oil could come out freely.

 

Found this:

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Very helpful to grind off the gearbox number.

 

Also this:

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M21-7 ?

 

Yes, boring myself silly with this too. Please put up with this crappy project, if I update it it may motivate me enough to finish it. Ta.

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It's got an engine number. The chassis number on the chassis is AWOL because I think it's supposed to be on the front dumb iron, and those had been replaced before I got it as well as the rear cross member. Don't know if there's axle numbers,not sure where to clean up to look for them.

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Axle numbers are near the breather, stamped into the casing.

LR ground the gearbox numbers off recon boxes, would usually have a wee brass plate attached to the main box with the recon number on.

Is it a S2 or S3 box (which side is the clutch slave on?)

 

Tacky blow over restoration in Huddersfield - unheard* of!

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It's a series 3 box. I wonder if Huddersfield still does the "buyer beware" department ones? They'd also banged in "county" cloth seats, but I binned them off for being minging, so will have to have a stroll round u pull it with a tape measure at some point.

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As do RX8 seats, which were in plentiful supply in the last scrapyard I was in.

 

Looks like a nice project! I've had a s3 109 and an alleged s2 88 which made yours look like a concourse winner for originality and condition. Sold em both due to lack of use and this time last year considered buying a tdi swapped one, but they're noisy as anything.

 

At least parts are easy to get hold of. Now I have a laplander I'm thinking landies probably weren't so bad!

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Axle numbers are near the breather, stamped into the casing.

LR ground the gearbox numbers off recon boxes, would usually have a wee brass plate attached to the main box with the recon number on.

Is it a S2 or S3 box (which side is the clutch slave on?)

 

Tacky blow over restoration in Huddersfield - unheard* of!

 

There's been a plate of some sort on the bell housing? I've not seen plates there before...

 

post-4472-0-52569200-1530564945_thumb.jpg

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Been doing a bit more today. Brilliant* photos of what it looks like now:

 

post-4472-0-57580400-1530565238_thumb.jpg

 

post-4472-0-55680400-1530565322_thumb.jpg

 

First task is remove passenger wing. Easy job, I only put it on 10 years ago so the fixings still work.

 

I'm sure this thing has been parked at the bottom of a deep lake. Bulkhead support is tissue paper thin:

 

post-4472-0-28814600-1530565512_thumb.jpg

 

Binned it off, and while I've got space loosely fitted exhaust front section. Needle gunned the chassis and yay no new holes!

 

post-4472-0-36196800-1530565722_thumb.jpg

 

Stick a coat of vactan on to hopefully fix the rust and that'll do for today.

 

post-4472-0-98891400-1530565837_thumb.jpg

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Amazing what a shiny new part and a coat of aldi hammerite* can do. Looks almost presentable.

 

post-4472-0-04750600-1530819060_thumb.jpg

 

Next task is brakes. I'm intending to renew all the pipes and cylinders and convert to dual line. I put all new stuff on 10 years ago, but shitpart so I feel safer to renew them or it will spring a leak in 10 yards.

 

First problem, I think the servo is knackered. The seal on the vacuum inlet is perished, and the inside has a nice mix of rust / brake fluid / water. A repair kit is £20 and a new one is £50, so new makes more sense. HBOL says simply* remove split pin, remove pin and then 4 nuts holding servo on. Pin is seized solid and no amount of hammering will shift it. Application of heat / swearing / more hammering frees it, but if the servo wasn't knackered before it is now.

 

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Better after a paint and new servo:

 

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I borrowed Eddie Shovelhand's fancy pipe flaring machine. Shame he's stored it at the bottom of a pond and it's all got a nice coating of rust. Scotchbrite and hope it's going to be ok?

 

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Does this flare look ok?

 

post-4472-0-31434400-1530820326_thumb.jpg

 

 

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Got some terrorists you want to break? Make them fit the speedo cable to a landy gearbox!

 

Seriously, is it actually possible to get 3 little retaining screws with spring washers fitted? Where's the Wakefield housewife and her one weird trick when you need her?

 

I pulled the overdrive to give more space. It's easy to get any one screw fitted, but then I can't get a screw near with my fat fingers. Tried manoeuvring it in with molegrips, applied screwdriver and the thread just won't catch or it pings off never to be seen again. After 2 hours I've got 1 screw fitted properly, and 1 half cross threaded  before the shitpart bastard cheese thing stripped the head.

 

Will that do? Can't see having 3 being that critical.

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Today I have been nicking Richardthestag's brake pipe straightener machine idea, only making mine out of more shite materials. Mine is based on rusted to fuck 30mm square steel tube:

 

post-4472-0-90743900-1531254205_thumb.jpg

 

I scribed a line down the middle of the tubes, put the pulleys where I thought they looked right and marked the centres. Cleaned the rust off, lined the bolt heads up and tacked the bolts to the tube. Then drilled 2 holes for width adjustment, added some bolts and voila it's finished.

 

It works brilliantly despite my measurement tolerance of nearest half brick.

 

 

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Re. speedo cable. I spent an absolute age lying underneath my late series 3 fitting the cable into the gearbox only later to find an access hatch on the gearbox tunnel (inside the cab) which would have made fitting it a very simple task. It also means topping up or refilling the gearbox with oil is a doddle. No idea if this is any help for you though.

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I've got all the seat box & tunnel removed so it shouldn't be so hard. I'm starting to think the holes in the speedo cable retainer are drilled in slightly the wrong places. I can fit any one screw, but then the others are just a bit off. It only had 1 screw in when I got it, so hopefully it will be ok. I'll have to try running it before I connect the propshafts.

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I decided the best way to test the speedo cable was to stick it in gear, fire it up and see if the speedo moves.

 

Success!

post-4472-0-74754200-1531339783_thumb.jpg

 

Fail! 5 seconds later it cut out as if stalled. Put it in neutral, tried turning hand brake drum and locked solid. Put the overdrive in neutral and the drum turns. So I removed the overdrive and the output gear of the main gearbox doesn't turn.

 

I think the main gearbox has a gear selected even though the selectors are in neutral. It will start, and the output shaft spins. When I press the clutch down it stops spinning so I don't think the clutch is faulty. If I select a gear and lift the clutch it then stalls.

 

Does this sound right? I suppose next step is take top cover off gearbox and see if I can spot what's going on, but any guesses much appreciated.

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I have broken the gearbox further. I took the top cover off and dropped a detent ball into the case. Smooth move. Took the selectors out and everything looks normal. There's the normal half inch of dirty oil in the bottom doing sod all good at lubricating.

 

It's reluctant to move into 3rd, and I can't seam to get 4th, probably cos that's the gear it's stuck in. Haven't a clue what I'm doing really, only diagnosis is it's broken.

 

Plan b time. Like most of us I have cat piss tarps with 'maybe useful one day' stuff under them. One of these has an unknown series 3 box that I bought for £20 at an autojumble 20 years ago. I sprayed the selectors with wd40 and it will select all gears. It's full of clean ep90. I'd assumed as the outside of the case is clean it had no oil in it.

 

So I guess it's fit this box and see if it works. Or ignore the ungrateful bastard for another 5 years.

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Take a break and have a second bash? I ignored my mine for a year's after busting myself replacing the servo and master cylinder only to find it impossible to get a solid brake peddle. It wasn't so much the swapping the servo, it was getting out the pin out that held it to the brake peddle which was seized solid.

 

Over the last couple of months I've decided it needed sorting and got into cleaning the chassis and sorting the cooling system. Oddly there is now brake pressure at the peddle and I can only conclude that some air worked its way out over the year. I just want to get it a MoT and then can work on the swivel hubs, possible new springs and the gearbox probably is due a rebuild. The truth is Land Rover and always work and expense.

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