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horrid yamaha


tobyd

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pulled the engine out the frame, this was easy with a helper. though i'd dismantle it to get any useful spares out before i send it towards an uncle who's into forges and melting stuff.

 

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Its not terrible inside the engine, a lot of money could be spent swapping new conrods and bearings and stuff in and probably get it going again. on the deeply uneconomic side though.

 

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Removed the clutch and basket, timing sensor thing, stator (or the other bit, the magnet one), the gears (bit worn) and some other odds and ends. my house is now even more of a tip. I might clean up later and get some stuff boxed up and stashed somewhere other than the living room floor. we'll see.

 

£100 sounds like a steal on that unit, a broken exhaust stud might be a pain though? Couldn't see where it had come off. might investigate later on. I need to talk to the guy at work, I've not convinced myself I want another whole bike yet. No rush on anything just yet though, I'm pretty knackered after being out in the sun for two days.

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Just heat that conrod up and hammer it straight again with a BFH?

 

Yeah, well worth talking to the herbert at work about his one. If you can collect up all the broken bits we can take them all to Sackers in Claydon and weigh them in when I'm up in August? I've got some mower bits to weigh in too? Whats the whole bike weigh on the basis you'll have at least one entire bikes worth of frame and engine and stuff going over the bridge? 200Kg? More?

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Bit of a bugger about the engine troubles.

 

For future reference, EuroCarParts does very cheap brake cleaner from time to time.

 

I usually stock up when it's around £1.50 a can - great for cleaning carbs as far as I'm concerned.

 

No way I'm paying Halfrauds prices!

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Had a brake cleaner epiphany over the last week or so, the local motor factors were chopping out 5 litre cans for £8 (maybe this was a lot, it seemed quite cheap for more than a gallon) and much stuff has been brake cleaned.

 

Been looking at engines on ebay and most seem to have tell-tale marks on the signal cover and there are a few clutch covers too. i've kept all that stuff. its mostly just the engine casings, crank and some of the gear selection stuff thats for the crucible. Seems more than a few ebay engines have one or more broken exhaust studs too, been welding nuts onto studs this evening as practise for what'll be a likely job.

 

I'm off the idea of getting another whole bike at the moment, especially one with a won't go into gear issue. It wasn't horrific to get into the gears if I came to it but its an awful lot of work to keep it all clean when you know it has to go back together. maybe its just the clutch stuff which needs investigating but maybe its just wrecked. 

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Thought I'd investigate the state of the front brake system.

 

The master cylinder was full of jelly and I don't think works anymore. I'll dismantle it later or tomorrow and see what falls out.

 

The pistons were seized in the caliper, a gentle going over with a blow torch freed them up enough to knock them back in 10mm or so and there they remain. reassembled the back master cylinder and filled with diesel, bled down but no dice on pumping them out. left It all to fester. hoping the front is fixable, the back master cylinder seems so-so (although maybe the diesel will wreck it, its probably overdue a rebuild). The lines are past it.

 

Couple of engines on ebay that don't seem to bad, not sure there is much call for breakers pulling and testing old Yamaha engines so doubt there is much mileage in calling around.

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tobyd, on 08 Jul 2018 - 7:08 PM, said:

pulled the engine out the frame, this was easy with a helper. though i'd dismantle it to get any useful spares out before i send it towards an uncle who's into forges and melting stuff.

 

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Its not terrible inside the engine, a lot of money could be spent swapping new conrods and bearings and stuff in and probably get it going again. on the deeply uneconomic side though.

 

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Removed the clutch and basket, timing sensor thing, stator (or the other bit, the magnet one), the gears (bit worn) and some other odds and ends. my house is now even more of a tip. I might clean up later and get some stuff boxed up and stashed somewhere other than the living room floor. we'll see.

 

£100 sounds like a steal on that unit, a broken exhaust stud might be a pain though? Couldn't see where it had come off. might investigate later on. I need to talk to the guy at work, I've not convinced myself I want another whole bike yet. No rush on anything just yet though, I'm pretty knackered after being out in the sun for two days.

 

Broken exhaust studs can be dealt with, see this thread: http://autoshite.com/topic/29081-extracting-broken-studs/

 

The money shot is on page 2... a pilot hole & left-handed drill bit can work magic ;-)

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I have a real fear about eezi-outs and drilling with left handed (sourcery!) drill bits. Them snapping off in the hole, the hole not being exactly straight and steel on aluminium gives me the fear. I am fairly confident I could weld a nut on, or even build up weld on a bit of a stud then weld a nut onto that but if its snapped off flush i think i'd cave and swap heads.

 

I'm ure the local machine shop would be able to helicoil out a single stud on the head for low double figures, but since i now have a spare head sat here might be as good to just buy and engine and throw a new head + gasket (since i have one) straight on and consider the options afterwards?

 

Or spend a little more on a lower mileage better unit? I don't know. Its something for next months consideration anyway so I'll see where the land lies (lays?) in August. 

 

Owing to some serious darkness in my (very probably former) co-workers life I'll be seeing them again so the other bike is almost certainly not an option any longer. I doubt its on his list of importance either.

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Ring some established local breakers, I don’t think these usually lunch their engines, so there won’t be much demand for them.

 

I used to work in a bike breakers(Barton motors Kawasaki) and we used to weigh in reliable engines, as we’d have 27 of them all in the way.

 

It’s worth the ask.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Instead of trying to work out why my semi-regular commuter hack Suzuki is running hot on one cylinder and not running right at all I thought i'd fix the brakes and suspension on a garden ornament. I figured that since getting the old engine out was so easy than it must surely be even easier to put another one in! Buoyed by irrefutable logic I thought i'd get the other bike bits ready then an engine can go in and then I'll be able to go to the ball. So thats brakes, fuel and suspension. The electrics all seem ok although not had a chance to check the regulator.

 

Came to the sad conclusion the fuel system was wrecked. The old pump no longer pumped (they are vacuum operated, the diaphrams were rotten) and inside it was vile. so replaced.

 

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Took the tank down the road to Sheldrake and Wells Ipswich who normally recore rads but said they'd take a look. They took it away and a few days later phoned up and said "no". They'd gotten some more snakes out but also freed up something which had taken some of the bottom of the tank out. It's now loose inside, I have no idea what it is but it sounds like a cannon ball.

 

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I'm not entirely sure about the structure of the tank (doubled skinned would be a pain) but I'm contemplating cutting out a fist-sized square around the rust-pin-hole, getting all the mank out and welding a section back on. Its relatively thick steel (going on the cut out for the fuel tap (also wrecked)) - so I might get away with a 2mm rod at low current. Sending it off anywhere isn't really economic and in its current state its barely worth scrap value. something for another day though.

 

The fuel tap had corroded. Whatever the tank had formed had eaten into the fuel selection plate inside the tap. Evidence of this also in the old carb...

 

Anyway, replaced pump, carbs lines and fittings sorts the working half of that system out.

 

The brakes were really shot. The rear caliper was seized solid and the bleed valve broken (alright, by me...), The rear master cylinder seemed ok but the piston was seized. The front master cylinder was seized and rotten leaving the front caliper which was a bit seized but the bleed nipple undid.

 

replacement rear master cylinder, pumped out front caliper pistons

 

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Not sure about the pistons, they aren't horrible but are a bit scored. oddly, despite the pistons being different sizes they both have a near identical deep gash.

 

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The caliper itself is ok, bit manky but should clean up alright. Needs new seals and boots. There was a glut of XJ900 rear calipers on ebay and they fit so bought one of those for the back. Ordered some replacement brake lines but they awol at the moment. Anyway, once a half decent front MC comes up the brakes can go back on.

 

The main event was these though

 

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New fork seals and dust caps. If you were doing the job properly you'd also get new snapitty rings and this bit of other metal that sits below the oil seal.

 

Pull forks

 

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The insides are quite simple, a spacer, a cup thing and the spring.

 

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The oil wasn't that gross, not nice but not exactly fresh. bit emulsioned too.

 

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The fun things about forks is oil comes out of them continuously, no matter how long they drain for. just goes everywhere. Also co-op bogof kitchen roll is about as absorbent as a dinner plate.

 

You have to have a couple of custom made precision tools for the job. These might just be the same tools one would use on a Suzuki GS500. If one happened to have done the forks on one of those in the past. Somewhat conveniently.

 

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The pipe is just a 40mm bit of pvc waste pipe I got from a friend saving literally 90p. The other bit is a bit of threaded bar with 5/8ths nuts on one end and a again towards the other end. The piston inside the fork is held in by a bolt at the road-end of the fork. You jam the 5/8ths end in the top to stop the thing spinning and remove the nut with an allan key. The RHS one was barely nipped up. The left one needed the vice.

 

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Once the bolt was removed the piston falls out.

 

remove the crusty snappity ring

 

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Then a quick jerk (hur hur) and the shiny bit (stanchion?) comes away from the receiver bit.

 

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Clean up, brass wheel out the oil seal seat and pop a new seal on.

 

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Drive seal home with pipe and mallet

 

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pop snap-ring back on

 

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piston back in, bottom bolt tightened up. If you were doing the job properly you'd replace the washer. Whoever previously slacked off on this left an old washer on so one side had 2. They will no doubt leak.

 

glug in 12.8fl oz of 10w oil from the bike shop in town, spring back, spacers on top cap clamped down. I had seen someone claim you had to have Geoff capes on hand and some angle iron tool to get the caps back on but just compressing the spring with the cap in your palm and turning the shiny bit until a few threads had bitten then finishing up with a wrench seemed like less work and a lot less Geoff capes.

 

put forks back on

 

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Will they leak? Probably. The chrome is a bit pitted here and there. I did run some fine steel wool over the legs with a vague hope it would remove the worst of it but we'll see. If you were doing this properly you'd make sure the air gap was right and identical across both forks. 

 

The rear shock seems ok i'll clean it up when I pull the swingarm to get the worst of the filth off that. I cleaned up the two stand springs so they now spring. Some hack has cut off the safety switch wiring for the side stand right at the switch end. I assume thats because the switch is broken.

 

The frame really needs blasting and repainting, now would be a good time to do it given its half stripped. I think it'll have to be next year though.

 

I think total spend on bits so far is circa £200, the front brake bits might push that up by another 50 or so. With engine it'll cost me about £700 including purchase. A respray and new tyres means that for £1000 I can have a £700 bike.

 

Absolute result.

 

 

 

 

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Petrol tank clear out today, new disc in the angle grinder, quick lighter-test on the tank. ear plugs in, welding mask down and...

 

what I aimed for

 

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What I managed

 

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What I found

 

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Yum.

 

Cleaned it a bit, guess the level of petrol / water when I got to it...

 

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Oh.

 

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Hmm, I was sort of hoping for a bit more metal than that. I think 2.5mm rods are going to somewhat rapidly make a real mess. Also spotted another pin hole which I think a tack weld will sort.

 

Also removed the swing arm and shock. Shock cleaned up ok but has a bit of a sore right where the shaft exits the body which I think might fail a test. no signs of leaks. swing arm is ok just grimy.

 

few odds and ends turned up in the week but nothing worth reattaching.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Limited progress today, rebuilt the front caliper with new seals but reused the pistons. Replaced the bollarded front master cylinder with one off a 1100cc honda CB something which 1 uncited source said in one abandoned forum post was a fair upgrade. assembled with a new brake hose and the 2nd cheapest pads off ebay, bled down and there are front brakes again! The backs will have to wait until a hose arrives that fits the XJ900 rear caliper thats going on there.

 

Cleaned the up swing arm and put some fresh grease on the roller bearings. Torqued some things down at the front i hope to not have to undo again.

 

Replacement engine should be arriving thursday.

 

Even found a place in town that will MIG the petrol tank, after some practise with the stick machine there is no way i'll be able to make a petrol tight join on 1mm steel. the moment there is the slightest gap even at 50 amps it just blows through... I'm sure it can be done, I've managed a few decent lap joints on some 1.5mm scrap but probably burnt through four times as many as I did ok, not really worth the risk. on the lookout for a reasonable used mig machine now.

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I've just bought a cheap Vito to do a bit if a dayvan style conversion. I didn't particular want a Vito but the price was good and after a test drive I was impressed, I actually drove it home last weekend due to some MOT issues with another car and it drives fine, wooly, but fine..

 

Ooooh, 638 or 639?

 

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Ain't no barrow like an old sack barrow

 

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new* engine for my new* bike. allegedly a '98 with 36k on it. missing the sprocket cover but I have a spare. I have lost the bolts for it. or they are mixed up in some other bolts. who is to know? not me.

 

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Fairly clean, no signs of woe, it turns over on the crank bolt, the 4 plugs were rusty but the firing ends were in good shape. No scars or anything and all 8 studs.

 

Summoned friend from down road to turn this

 

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into this

 

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The frame took a few more cuts but the plan is to get this running and MOT'd then stripped and repainted so not too worried yet.

 

Put the starter back on, reattached the gear change linkage and footpeg, plugged in some electrics and tested, all seem ok except the oil light which I have either lost the wire for, it was never there, and I dont see where it attaches. Will investigate that tomorrow. the horn doesn't work, neither does the 'pass' light (main beam flash) but the brake lights do and the indicators and the neutral light. Swapped the oil filter adapter for the old one since I don't have an oil cooler. This engine doesn't appear to have had the carb heater thing, it has the tapping but it doesn't look used. By this point in the diversity evolution I think they'd changed the carbs anyway so who knows. if I can leave it off then its fewer things to leak.

 

tomorrow i'll get the carbs back on and as much else as I can. A place down the road will patch the tank for a reasonable sum so that should be ok; i'll ruin it with stick. If I can obtain some oil tomorrow I might see if I can't get it spinning off the battery of my wretched Suzuki which has lunched its starter clutch and rotor and is a rascal...

 

seat needs recovering but I think thats not too badly priced and in the scheme of things unimportant.

 

I still have absolutely no idea what you mean BarryCade? 

 

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progress update

 

new battery today and some careful wiring got the motor to spin on the starter. seems to turn easily and there is piston up and down action (i first thought the starter clutch was bollarded). slopped in new oil and filter too. air filter to go in too. also a chainset but I've not dealt with those before so should be fun.

 

Alas, some hack has made merry with the wiring and the starter would spin with the ignition off. restored the wiring to the right state and got the right lights but no starter action. I assume it has something to do with the missing side-stand safety switch and/or clutch switch - both are designed to stop you starting the bike / riding off in a bad state. some careful poking and prodding blew the indicator fuse and seems to have taken the relay with it it as now stuff on that circuit doesn't work... never mind. I'll replace the side stand and relay and see if it won't run with real fuel. I wish people didn't carve up looms...

 

tank is off being welded up, going to try sealing it but as part of the winter fix up.

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  • 1 month later...

Not a lot wasn't wrecked... All the main parts have been replaced, a few rebuilt. Of the original important bits I think only the discs and exhaust remain untouched. 

 

Progress has been slow over the last 6 weeks. Spent ages trying to figure out the electrics as some of the safety switches weren't letting the bike start. redoing connectors, cleaning contacts, bridging switches didn't get me anywhere so gave up and ebayed another loom and CDI unit. Result happiness, plugged it all in and it span on the button. Checked the plugs and they all showed sparks and then i didn't really do anything else for a week or so. I lashed some primer over the welds on the tank but didn't take any pictures...

 

I did send the seat away for a re-cover

 

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Since the original was oily and was falling to bits.

 

Today I got on with replumbing the fuel system. The petcock leaked but then didn't after I took it apart and put it back together. might get a repair kit if it shows signs of doing that again. Two of the carb drains leaked. one was loose and the other was rotten (brass?) so I put one in from the old wrecked carbs and it stopped leaking. Seems and smells petrol tight at the moment.

 

Cranked it over. for ages. and nothing happened. Much back and forth trying to get the fuel into the floats eventually yielded a few coughs then a few seconds tractor noise running then stall. Only the headers for cylinders 2 and 3 (middle, sharing a coil) got warm so I think coil 1 has failed too. I think there is a test procedure in the manual but i'm not holding any hope.

 

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Loosely put some of the trim back on. I forgotten had grim the plastics are. I have absolutely no idea how to restore them. boiled linseed did ok on the black bits but the red didn't come up at all well.

 

Didn't bother reinstalling the carb preheater thing and there was some bizarre (and likely homemade) carb draining pipe-arrangement that once I figured wasn't stock went in the bin.

 

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I could have sworn I cluttered this up with a few other bits I did over the last few weeks but perhaps i'm ever sloppier than I thought.

 

Did the chain and sprockets

 

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Made this fine piece up to press the master link thing together. clamp either side of the link (holes for the rivet heads), wind a vice / clamp  onto it, pop the retainer over and job done.

 

So if its holding its petrol tomorrow I'll probably get the rear trim back on and have a crack at that coil and very possibly get this booked in for an MOT next month.

 

The other bike is being a git.

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Pulled both coils and tested them. Primaries are in spec just, secondaries are miles out (~30k, should be 14k max).

 

Cleaned contacts, put them back on. Bam. Action on 4 cylinders. fairly smooth low tickover.

 

Copious amounts of smoke (the exhaust has quite a bit of oil in it) which i'll try and burn off today.

 

voltage didn't go wild over the battery, sat at 14.2 or so at about 1000rpm so i'm hopeful the RR is alright.

 

Petrol tank might have a leak...

 

Reassembled the rest of it

 

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The front really doesn't do much for its aesthetics...

 

The TADTS clutch rattle at tick over is DTS. Revs quite easily though.

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