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The Austin 2dr 1100 story - Part IV - Now in sharleys hands


SiC

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Today was one of those days that I think everyone struggled with the heat. Down here it topped 30C, but worse was it very humid. Making it very uncomfortable to do anything.

 

So I decided to take a good look of the engine bay now the lump is removed. Also jacked it up to have a look underneath.

 

Here are some pictures to browse around.

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Right subframe mount has been welded before but is still very strong.

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This is probably the only rust that I haven't known about. This is above the top of the passenger side wing.

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So not too bad really. I mean there is rust, but nothing more that I can see which needs cutting back and welding. Just cleaning up and treating.

 

Took the wheel off to have a look at the hubs and see what condition they were in. Gave me a chance to use my Makita impact wrench for the first time too.

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Discs are obviously crusty, but there is virtually no lip. I'm hoping these can be cleaned up and reused. Or even just some good hard braking once on the road again.

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As it was jacked up, I decided to look at that drivers side subframe mount. Unfortunately I seem to have forgotten or lost the picture I took of that. Anyway, it appears the mount has been welded before. It's this repair that has rusted through. Most of the surrounding metal seems pretty solid. I'll take another picture of it another day.

 

I finished off labelling all the remaining parts of the loom in the engine bay.

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Even if I don't replace the loom, it's given me a very good idea of where everything is and how it connects together. I may be able to get away with cutting off the fusebox crimps and recrimping. Then in the car, cut back the mess and solder in replacement - while properly matching the colour codings. However saying that, the loom is pretty short and I don't think it'll cost that much in wire at all.

 

The final task of the day was finishing stripping the interior out, ready for welding. This is a bad assortment of photos I've just taken in the dark. However it should give a reasonable idea of the current state of it.

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Only thing really left is to remove the fuel tank. It's now drained, I just need to jack up and unbolt. Should be easy, providing there are no stuck fixings!

 

I also need to degas the hydrolastic suspension, as I'll be welding around the drivers side pipe. I also need to replace the Schrader valve too, so I'll need to degas to do that anyway. Any tips? Not sure I am prepared enough to push in the valve and get fluid over everything.

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Sneaky rust on that inner wing, I didn't know about that bit.  You may find the trumpet that side needs doing as well, it was on my long term list but I didn't poke since it's a big job to do just because of how much you have to take apart to get to it easily.  To avoid fluid getting you in the face, use a cloth/paper towel/flannel over the valve and push in with a blunt screwdriver tip.  The cloth soaks up a good amount of the fluid and you avoid getting it in your face.  Not much you can do about it going all over the floor, but if you rinse liberally with water afterwards it will be no risk to anyone/thing.  You're being an awful lot more thorough than I was with this so it'll be interesting to see what you find from this point, you're in new territory to me now.

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I also need to degas the hydrolastic suspension, as I'll be welding around the drivers side pipe. I also need to replace the Schrader valve too, so I'll need to degas to do that anyway. Any tips? Not sure I am prepared enough to push in the valve and get fluid over everything.

Terminology. Depressurise as you're dealing with fluid, not gas. Even when dealing with Hydrasag, you depressurise the fluid from the system.

 

It's not going to come shooting out if you don't press down dead hard! Get a 2L bottle lined up and give it a try. At worst it's only about 15 bar at full pelt. It's low pressure compared to a Citroen!

 

The only other thing I can think of is how fat are the rear tyres(?), because the wheels don't half disappear into the arches when the suspension is let down. 155s may rub against the rear arch bodywork. If you want to move it around, I'd leave the suspension alone for now.

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These are really cool, quite a tidy one you've got yourself!

 

Re: The engine on a stand, when I took the a series out of my mini I had it sat on a workmate on the flat sump which made it easy to work on, though I know people who have modified/made an adapter for an engine stand that bolts to the alternator and oil filter housing holes on the block

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s-l1600.jpg

 

This listing is for the STANDARD, fully adjustable jig sold in :

KIT FORM - (unwelded) SELF BUILD, We also offer these Ready welded in our other listings.

 

£185 + £40 delivery. 

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ROLLOVER-SPIT-ROTISERRIE-JIG-Vauxhall-Viva-Nova-ford-100e-bmw-e36-triumph/153042907923?hash=item23a2117313:g:ItMAAOSwbbdbDunv

 

This listing is for a fully built STANDARD rollover jig, ready to assemble and use within 20 minutes.

 

£235 + £40 delivery, 

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ROLLOVER-JIG-Spit-ROTISSERIE-golf-mk1-mk2-Mgb-GT6-triumph/153015729810?hash=item23a072be92:g:rz0AAOSwxzdaG~bY

 

In case you're thinking of a rollover jig. If you have the width for a car, then you should be ok for a jig and rotation. They do model specific ones and universal ones. Says specify which car when ordering on that one but might be worth an email asking what they can do for an 1100. 

 

The reason I'm suggesting it is for a novice welder, access is important so you can concentrate on the weld. Trying to learn/improve in what are awkward positions anyway makes the whole job much harder. 

 

Then you're set for next one once this one's sorted.  :-D

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Cracking work so far Si. Fancy some support one weekend day?

Definitely won't go a miss! Maybe once the heat has died down a bit again? I've still got 5 days holiday left this year to use up. Debating on whether to take it as a block and a big weldathon, or just do as several 2 to 3 day blocks.

 

I'm hoping in the coming weeks that the maintenance man where Mrs SiC works can come over and give me a couple hours crash course on the MiG. He has a bunch of old 50s American pickup trucks that he runs & restores and knows much more what he's doing than me.

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In other news, I've found this fascinating site with the body pressing diagrams: http://www.mginfo.co.uk/leyland/?q=node/14

 

Not a whole lot to the ado16 really! What I found especially interesting is that Morris had the shells fully built up, where as Austin had them delivered as sub-assemblies. I wonder if this led to different longevity of the shells? Even their notes mention that the Morris and Austin shells are identical.

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I would still depressurise the 'lastic and drop that front subframe out. That 'strong' mounting area looks horrible and that will be a massive rotten mess in no time. With the frame out you can clean and paint the engine bay, pressure wash the frame off and clean/paint the hydro pipes.

I did give that area a whack with a small hammer and it didn't break through. Did better than an area of the inner sill where a new hole has appeared!

 

Before I wet flatulate the system, I'll remove the fuel tank first I think. At the very least the rubber pipes between the tank and hard pipe need replacing. However I'm hoping the tank will be in reasonable nick. Wishful thinking maybe.

 

I definitely want to give that front subframe a paint though. Not in bad nick but plenty of surface rust. Once I get the floors in and sills done I'll probably investigate it then. I'm a bit fearful of removing it until then, while there is big holes in the middle.

 

I think the rear subframe, front mountings need a bit of rework too. They've been worked on before and the passenger side looks passable. However the drivers side mounting plates only have a few tacks on and I can see daylight between the two. Once the tank is removed I'm hoping I can have a good look behind that area.

 

If the system is empty, can it be temporarily inflated with compressed air and a tyre inflator? Or will that damage it? Mostly if it's too low and I need it a tad higher again.

 

There are a few aftermarket hydralastic pumps available for around the 120quid mark that are very tempting. But trying to avoid expenditure on tools like that until I've actually got it welded up.

 

I know the manual says it can be driven on the bump stops for short distances. My hope was to get it all fixed up and done, then drive it around the corner (half mile) to the classic car specialist place for a vacuum and pump back up properly.

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Having just clocked you're in Bristol, I'd also like to offer support. This may just be moral, and some sucking through teeth and tea drinking, but I'm only over the bridge.

 

Damn! If I hadn't already bought the crane, it would have been ideal. How good is your welding? :D

 

I'm told Lady SiC makes delicious cakes...

Too good! *Looks at fat belly*

 

 

In other news, I bidded up £12 for this. I thought that was a good price for an old second hand tool.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F202347936276

 

Evidently not. Old, British made tool, quality yar-di-yar - but still! I think I'll take a punt with a 20 quid new one from Machine Mart. Well I will have to. I mean it only* has to last once anyway.

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One thing that's been bugging me on this car is the seats. They're lovely and squishy with the foam in great condition. The fabric is generally in good nick apart from a few tears on back (I fear that might have happened from the parts in the back when it was transported down). However sitting in them gives me one massive problem.

 

There is no headrest.

 

After being rear ended on the motorway I ended up with whiplash. My neck has never been the same since and it often gets stiff and uncomfortable. So apart from the fear of an accident destroying my neck completely, it's also pretty uncomfortable for me to sit at a seat without a decent headrest.

 

How can I safely retrofit one? I haven't seen any ado16 seats ever with headrests, so I assume they never had any seats with them?

 

I really want to avoid putting seats from later cars in if possible. Like the usual suspects (e.g. MX5 seats) I feel would look out of place in an 1100. I could stretch to a seat of a similar vintage though if people have suggestions on what that would fit without too much bodging.

 

Doesn't seem much in the way of aftermarket seats around either. There are these from BB Classics, but I think they look hideous in most classic cars.

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I'd like to keep the rear bench seat usable too, so ideally it still would have a tilt mechanism in it.

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IIRC a lot of mainstream family cars of the era didn't have headrests as standard, I've never seen an ADO16 with period looking headrest equipped seats. 

I can recommend Reliant Scimitar SE6/6a/6b/8 seats as comfortable seats and come with head restraints, though you might have to retrim, re-cushion and adapt a bit to fit. Plus they tip as well for getting in the back. The earlier SE5/5a ones I don't think had restraints but look more period.

 

MGB GT seats might also be an alternative, not sure how comfy you are in your Sherpa Coupe chairs, but most 70's one had, or have the provision, for fitting head restraints.

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MGB GT seats are a possibility, especially as they have the tilting function. Quite pricey second hand though. The ones in my '74 are way more comfortable now I've done the foam!

 

Good call on the Reliant Scimitar seats. Will have a gander to see what is around and readily available.

 

I was thinking Spitfire/Midget/etc seats, but there isn't much available second hand at all on seats. Ideally it will be a fairly common vehicle, as I'd like the possibility of getting new seat cushions. Makes a massive difference to comfort.

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I'd be looking at Mini seats since there was a period between the basic ones like in the 1100 and the later too-modern looking Rover 100 seats that wouldn't look too out of place if retrimmed in vinyl: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Classic-Mini-Front-Seats-And-Door-Cards/163107843116

 

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Most are going to need collecting, is the only issue, but they can be got fairly cheap.  These have a mere £20 starting bid: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/classic-mini-seats/263801526645

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So apart from the fear of an accident destroying my neck completely, it's also pretty uncomfortable for me to sit at a seat without a decent headrest.

Sell it. Buy something new.

 

How can I safely retrofit one?

It's a 1960s design. Live with it? Or sell it.

 

I haven't seen any ado16 seats ever with headrests, so I assume they never had any seats with them?

Go to SpecSavers. I have. Factory fit too. Model year 1968-ish onwards Austin America other export markets might be available. (Sorry about the crap pictures)

 

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I really want to avoid putting seats from later cars in if possible. Like the usual suspects (e.g. MX5 seats) I feel would look out of place in an 1100. I could stretch to a seat of a similar vintage though

I don't reckon the the "decent headrest", "safe" and "similar vintage" is a circle that can be squared. Old headrests were crap. So without bolting weights onto a helmet to build those neck muscles up, perhaps consider buying something "safe"?

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It's probably more of a pyschological thing tbh.  Some people refuse to get in a car without air bags because they might get their face smashed in, some people won't get in a car with seatbelts because they want to be thrown clear.  Best crash protection out there is not to be in crash, but that can be a bit tricky sometimes.

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Your pics of the America tall seats made me wonder when the big bumper regs came in, I thought the America was in production long enough to fall foul of it but can't recall seeing any with park benches fitted fore and aft.

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Park benches reg came in September 1972, so I think they called it a day before that kicked in.

 

Todd Miller's site www.austinamericausa.com is the place to look.

 

Here's a pic of his car.

 

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(At the bottom left, you can see the anti-tip catch which is absent on UK models.)

 

What I am scratching my head and wondering is whether or not there is any supporting framework for a headrest hiding under the covers or not. There's a slim chance there might be but I can't remember back nearly 30 years when I last had a seat apart. Shouldn't be beyond the wit of man to *cough* weld something in if not...

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I'd be looking at Mini seats since there was a period between the basic ones like in the 1100 and the later too-modern looking Rover 100 seats that wouldn't look too out of place if retrimmed in vinyl

Good shout too. Funnily enough I was just looking at modern classic mini seats just before j went to bed.

 

 

 

Triumph Dolomites of around this time had head restraints available as an optional extra. Would Dolomite seats fit?

 

EDIT: Just realised you need tipping seats. Maybe two door Toledo seats would take Dolomite head restraints.

I did try searching for Dolly/Tolly seats, but they're few and far between. Those that are around will need refoaming as a minimum but not premade foam - so would require remaking that too.

 

Sell it. Buy something new.

 

 

It's a 1960s design. Live with it? Or sell it.

 

A bit drastic selling a car because it has no headrest!

 

I don't reckon the the "decent headrest", "safe" and "similar vintage" is a circle that can be squared. Old headrests were crap. So without bolting weights onto a helmet to build those neck muscles up, perhaps consider buying something "safe"?

Yes I know the car isn't at the same safety levels as a modern car. However it's still safer around town than when on my road bike.

 

If I bend my head back when sat in the seat, it hurts. So sat for long periods in it is very uncomfortable. Driving around the city, it's a lot of time in the seat either not travelling very far or fast and often stationary. Even braking hard gives me a sore neck.

 

By adding one myself (i.e. welding a post), I rather would prefer to fit it correctly than making it more dangerous in an accident.

 

Park benches reg came in September 1972, so I think they called it a day before that kicked in.

 

Todd Miller's site www.austinamericausa.com is the place to look.

 

Here's a pic of his car.

 

aarearint.jpg

 

(At the bottom left, you can see the anti-tip catch which is absent on UK models.)

 

What I am scratching my head and wondering is whether or not there is any supporting framework for a headrest hiding under the covers or not. There's a slim chance there might be but I can't remember back nearly 30 years when I last had a seat apart. Shouldn't be beyond the wit of man to *cough* weld something in if not...

That headrest looks suspiciously like the headrest in my MGB. These seem readily available and cheapish to buy. Just would have to figure how to mount it on the seat. I guess a tube welded down the back of the frame that is flattened to take the profile of the headrest tube and pinch it to stop it falling through?

 

Failing that, maybe two pieces of steel roughly bend and clamped together. To try and replicate the MGB headrest mount.

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It's probably more of a pyschological thing tbh.  Some people refuse to get in a car without air bags because they might get their face smashed in, some people won't get in a car with seatbelts because they want to be thrown clear.  Best crash protection out there is not to be in crash, but that can be a bit tricky sometimes.

 

Problem is, while you stand a chance of avoiding someone trying to drive into you from many angles, trying to avoid someone going straight into the back of you is much harder. After I got rear ended in the 2CV, I must concede I keep a closer eye on my rear view mirror when stopped than I used to. Hazards on if last in the queue, or at the very least a few flashes of the brake lights. I tend to leave a generous gap to the car in front too.

 

But I can well understand the desire for head restraints. You can't avoid every accident. Problem with Mini ones is you'll probably find the head restraint is more a shoulder restraint...

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