Project The Austin 2dr 1100 story - Part IV - Now in sharleys hands

[DodgeRover]

Coming on well, that centre cill cut is impressive - I would have been tempted to straight line for speed! the welding looks a little splattery today compared to previously - are you using enough gas? Is the welder still on auto setup?

[N Dentressangle]

Looks like a brilliant job! The rot's so extensive I guess it's no surprise so few (relatively) have survived.

 

A bit dear, I know, and maybe it's already been suggested, but could these guys not help with repair panels:

 

http://www.steelpanels.co.uk/category/bmc/austin-1100/body-side-austin-1100/

[SiC]

Coming on well, that centre cill cut is impressive - I would have been tempted to straight line for speed! the welding looks a little splattery today compared to previously - are you using enough gas? Is the welder still on auto setup?

Its thicker steel. I've also turned down the gas. Reckon it's a bit too low now then?

 

[Momentary Lapse Of Reason]

If you put your magnetic clamps inside a zip top plastic bag (freezer bag) to use it makes cleaning off the "toenail clippings" and ferrous dust that bit easier. The placy bag doesn't stop them sticking - just makes the crap easier to remove.

 

HTH

[vulgalour]

That's better looking than I expected it to be.  Hopefully when you're done you'll get more than 10 years out of the new sills, having the closing panel will probably help with that a LOT.

[SiC]

Looks like a brilliant job! The rot's so extensive I guess it's no surprise so few (relatively) have survived.

 

A bit dear, I know, and maybe it's already been suggested, but could these guys not help with repair panels:

 

http://www.steelpanels.co.uk/category/bmc/austin-1100/body-side-austin-1100/

Yeah they're very expensive. Problem is that I only need small bits from their repair panels too. So bit of a waste.

 

There is also Classic Sheet Metal up in Birmingham who have a whole 2 door shell they can make bits from. A lot more reasonably priced too. I keep meaning to message them and find out about a wheel arch repair panel.

If you put your magnetic clamps inside a zip top plastic bag (freezer bag) to use it makes cleaning off the "toenail clippings" and ferrous dust that bit easier. The placy bag doesn't stop them sticking - just makes the crap easier to remove.

 

HTH

Good idea with the food bag. I've been over earlier without one and it's a right pain picking off all the bits from the magnet!

 

That's better looking than I expected it to be. Hopefully when you're done you'll get more than 10 years out of the new sills, having the closing panel will probably help with that a LOT.

The old sill isn't even that tragic.

 

Luckily the bit that is fully solid is the bit I need to cut off and save. As the sills you provided are 4 door ones, they don't have this endey bit.

[Noel Tidybeard]

classic sheet metal are about 15-20 minutes away if you want me to have a nosey about

[vulgalour]

Those sills SHOULD have been 2 door ones, that's what they were sold to me as.  I didn't realise there was a difference.

[SiC]

Those sills SHOULD have been 2 door ones, that's what they were sold to me as. I didn't realise there was a difference.

No idea if there is a difference. However these have a label on them saying `4 door sill`. Maybe they are the same? Maybe that chunk missing on the back is classed as part of the wheel arch?

 

Either way, they're close enough and as I want to get this sill pretty much done by the weekend, it's going to have to do. My target is still to have the bulk of the welding completed by end of December, with only a few minor patching bits left to do (e.g. door skin, etc). That way I can get on with sorting the engine, wiring and dash inside the garage over the colder January/February/March months. Then by the time I've sorted those bits, it'll start warming up again and can start thinking about paint. Once spring hits, I can then refit everything ready for the summer.

 

I think that's achievable. Really depends what needs to be done on the other side. I'm hoping it's just the sills, but I fear it could be another rusty hole hunt again!

[vulgalour]

I could have misremembered... pretty sure I bought 2 door ones... I suppose the truth will be in the thread.  Fingers crossed side b isn't too much of a let down.

[SiC]

More scribing

 

Colour in the line

 

Fit up cut panel

 

Weld panel

 

Just got to grind the new bit back a tad. Want to run another bead over the one I did yesterday. Not happy the penetration is enough. This is the other side.

 

Ground back the bit yesterday ready for another bead.

 

Inner sill mostly done.

[dozeydustman]

This is excellent progress

[vulgalour]

Cannot thumbs up enough.

[SiC]

I thought this was all going too easy! The old sill top section was attached on top of the original sill metal. You can just about see it here.

 

Original metal is on the right here, old replacement sill on the left.

 

I wasn't quite sure how I was going to remove this. After a moments thought I decided to use brute force and ignorance.

 

Wood chisel, big screwdriver and tin snips were the weapons of choice. Seemed to do the job.

 

These bits are the bits that were welded on. The rest was structural* fiberglass and filler. I'll remove these bits off with the 40 grit flap disc. Those little buggers eat through metal like nothing else I know.

 

When I see harvest gold, it's a good moment. It means I'm back to original metal. Metal that came out of the factory.

 

Next problem was under the door. I have no idea how I am supposed to get these screws out. I hate Pozi & Philips (yes I know they're different) screws. Awful things that cam out so easily.

 

Anyway it turned out that this bit was never welded on. After I broke the fibreglass bit, it bent right off. I still need to get back in there really and properly clean it up, so I can weld the new one on correctly.

 

There is one eternal question I have with this little car. Considering how badly these rust, all the bodge repairs it's had over the years and the number of owners that just flog it on, I'm impressed how this car survived. I mean millions of these things were made, but the vast majority were crushed. How come this one survived?

 

Some how this little car really has survived despite all the odds. By every rights it should have been scrapped by now. Yet it still survives.

 

Some of the repairs were done properly, but many were done in the view that it just gets it over the MOT hurdle and that it's likely to be scrapped soon anyway. In some ways it's a shame that I can't do a full blast down, put it on a spit and repair it with big new sections. Especially on the floor pan and stuff. However I don't have the space, skills, equipment nor patience to do a full TripleRich style restoration. Maybe this is why this one has survived? As it's not perfect and never will be, people historically haven't minded to just get stuck in and do it.

[DodgeRover]

In days gone tack welding cills or brazing was fine for an mot, (hell even pop rivets used to be ok) so it's not surprising to find that.

A manual impact driver (the type you hold then hit hard with a big hammer) will shift those door mountings.

 

I would say it's survived as it's never had to have an absolutely massive amount done for a test in the past, and the previous owners have just kept it going - doing just what was required up till this point. If it had gone for a test previously and needed the amount of metal that you are putting into it chances are it would have been fragged.

[SiC]

I guess my BOF Makita (DTW1002z) electric impact wrench is going to be a bit too violent for that job? The heads are already pretty rounded off and I don't want to make the job any harder. Not that I've got any impact rated crosshead screwdriver bits for it though.

[DodgeRover]

This is the sort of thing you want

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Manual-Hammer-Impact-Driver-Tool-Heavy-Duty-Phillips-Flat-PZ1-PZ2-1-2-Drive/221902853510

 

You hold it with one hand whilst smacking the head with a heavy hammer, that usually shifts them.

[vulgalour]

I'll second Dodge on that, the slow heavy manual tool is usually better for those sorts of screws than the fast electric approach.  It may help to get some heat into them if you can get in at them too.  Worst case you'll have to drill them out and retap the holes, usually it doesn't come to that and most of the stuff on the car that needed to did seem to unbolt very easily when I was fettling it.

 

Bloody mindedness is probably what's kept this thing going, that and the fact it has a certain charm all it's own, like a really old dog with only three legs, a heart condition, one eye, and a smell that never quite goes away.

[richardthestag]

If you put your magnetic clamps inside a zip top plastic bag (freezer bag) to use it makes cleaning off the "toenail clippings" and ferrous dust that bit easier. The placy bag doesn't stop them sticking - just makes the crap easier to remove.

 

HTH

 

top tip of the week

[Momentary Lapse Of Reason]

 

"Next problem was under the door. I have no idea how I am supposed to get these screws out. I hate Pozi & Philips (yes I know they're different) screws. Awful things that cam out so easily.

"

 

 

Use some heat &/or paint stripper to clean all of the old paint and crap out of the slot where the screwdriver goes into before you do anything else.

As per Dodge and Vulg use a mechanical impact screwdriver driver.

Makes sure you have the right size/type impact screwdriver bit for the screw you are removing.

Place the impact screwdriver bit on its own into the slot, get it all nice and square and give it a good thump with the hammer.

(this is to get it to sit in the slot as tight as possible).

Now put the impact screwdriver onto the bit, get it all nice and square and take the slack up in the direction you are turning it and give it a good thump with the hammer. (the impact driver not your hand...).

 

BTW Better to use one blow from a bigger hammer than elventytwelve blows with a little hammer for this sort of thing.

If it still cams out and ruins the screw head, then time for a drill about a 3/16" (~ five millipedes).

 

HTH

[SiC]

I've gone out and bought a hand impact driver made by the fine quality* tool manufacturers known as Silverline. Yes, I did keep the receipt!

 

Also got a Wera PZ4 bit. Not sure if it's Philips or Pozi in there as so much paint, but the set came with a Philips No4 anyway. I fear not much metal work will be done this afternoon. Instead it will be a lot of swearing these screws.

[SiC]

Well that was a fight. But the door is now off.

 

The hand impact thing wasn't doing diddly squat. So I got out the big toys.

 

Gently, gently does it...

[Video]

 

This was the problem.

 

Unfortunately that means most of the threads are buggered. Also 2 heads rounded out at the slightest attempts to shift them. Drilled them out with only one drill bit as a fatality. To be fair they're pretty blunt and I was putting a crap load of force behind them.

 

Next question, wtf do I do now?! Even if I get the bolts out, the threads need fixing. They're on some sort of metal plate, so I guess the easiest thing will be to cut the other side open and remove those plates?

 

I'll get on with that once the sill is reattached. I've now got to figure out where the hell I'm going to put this door!

[Christine]

I've gone out and bought a hand impact driver made by the fine quality* tool manufacturers known as Silverline. Yes, I did keep the receipt!

 

Also got a Wera PZ4 bit. Not sure if it's Philips or Pozi in there as so much paint, but the set came with a Philips No4 anyway. I fear not much metal work will be done this afternoon. Instead it will be a lot of swearing these screws.

    I only said to Gigglepin on Monday , how utterly rubbish that   screwfix /Toolstation Silverline  Impact driver was....He agreed... Even the bits are made of chocolate , so I ate them ...

I bought it as I couldn't find my old good one . That came from a local Saturday market stall ,but it does actually work ! Sods law I 've found it now. 

[vulgalour]

Okay, you know when I said 'usually', this is one of those not-usually scenarios.  Bad times with the state of those screws.  You should still be able to retap that plate without removing it I'd've thought, so long as you can get the tools in there.  The door will fit inside the car too if you just want it out of the way temporarily.

[Christine]

yeah a spotweld drill will have them out .Tap one hole carefully  ,  get a bolt in it tightened up ,and then do the others .You don't wanna tear off the captive bit of metal holding it in place , or the plate will drop down the pillar !

[SiC]

I'm not too worried about the captive plate falling down. I only have to dig out this rusty hole a bit more to be able to retrieve it!

 

Cleaned up the step plate for fresh paint.

 

Found this number. What does it mean ado16 gurus? Chassis number?

 

Sill fits pretty well.

 

Only had to make this small mod to fit.

 

The back section I'll bend up to fill the gap from where I've cut.

 

Now to give a quick clean up on the membrane metal and I better put some paint on it! Just realised I didn't sand down the other side before welding it on. So will have to key the surface by hand.

 

I'll do that once the outer sill is back on. But I need to do this membrane first as I won't have access to it once it's welded on.

[purplebargeken]

Fantastic work mate. 

[SiC]

I'm getting a bit fed up of the welding now. Actually the welding is ok, it's the grinding. My god do I hate grinding. Hate hate hate. I imagine my neighbours hate it too.

[TripleRich]

Great to you see you getting stuck into fabrication on the drive.  Most of your problems are from past bodge repairs so it pays to take your time and do a thorough job.  The knackered threads in the A post are on some floating quarter inch plates which you can remake.  You may be able to re-tap the threads in the originals if you're lucky.  Then you can rehang the door and double check the gaps before welding that sill.

 

Keep up the good work.  The grinding will end one day!

[Dick Longbridge]

I'm getting a bit fed up of the welding now. Actually the welding is ok, it's the grinding. My god do I hate grinding. Hate hate hate. I imagine my neighbours hate it too.

You can’t make an omelette without cracking some eggs. Buy the neighbours some chocklits at Christmas and offer them a free ride in a rare car when it’s finished. Should placate them. Maybe.

Great work, anyhow. You clearly aren’t afraid of cracking on with it!