anonymous user Posted August 11, 2018 Share Posted August 11, 2018 Re: your mileometer, ask Quentin Wilson and do the opposite SiC 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiC Posted August 11, 2018 Author Share Posted August 11, 2018 Target: I moved it on to 59k and wound it on by spinning the tenths digit to 60k. Then flicked it to 62k and carried on winding the tenths digit. GrumpiusMaximus, purplebargeken, Lacquer Peel and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiC Posted August 11, 2018 Author Share Posted August 11, 2018 Reassembled the pedal box. Did this really carefully as the enamel paint hasn't fully hardened yet. Gave a quick touch up with spray can on any areas I scratched. Before After Last of the fiddling and the next updates should be about actually sticking bits of metal back onto the chassis! RobT, Skizzer, Jim Bergerac and 9 others 12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulgalour Posted August 11, 2018 Share Posted August 11, 2018 Reverse clocking. Only on Autoshite. captain_70s, Lacquer Peel, purplebargeken and 7 others 10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squire_Dawson Posted August 12, 2018 Share Posted August 12, 2018 Just noticed the TPM figures are different, this means the speedometer will not be accurate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiC Posted August 12, 2018 Author Share Posted August 12, 2018 Balls. I meant to check that. May have to do a Speedo mechanism transplant then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dozeydustman Posted August 12, 2018 Share Posted August 12, 2018 Balls. I meant to check that. May have to do a Speedo mechanism transplant then. Can you change the drive output on the gearbox? Normally one of the gearwheels can be changed depending on speedo or geartrain fitted to the car. Easier that dismantling a speedo head that may not fit in the new one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiC Posted August 12, 2018 Author Share Posted August 12, 2018 No idea? I've never done it before! Electronic dashes are easy, you just plug in with an appropriate scan tool and tell it that it's a different model. These mechanical beasts are of course rather different. If I do, what gear do I need to make this work? And where is a good source for them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeEP Posted August 12, 2018 Share Posted August 12, 2018 Unfortunattely ADO16s dealt with the difference in final drive between 1100 and 1300 by using different speedos. The drive in the gearbox is always the same. I believe it was the same with minis. From Allegro onwards the difference was dealt with by the speedo drive in the gearbox, so you can swap speedos to your heart's content. I've looked into this before and as far as I know there is no off-the-shelf speedo drive (from Allegros Metros etc) that will correct a 1100 from 1300 or vice-versa. Although some may reduce the error. SiC 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dozeydustman Posted August 12, 2018 Share Posted August 12, 2018 If there is a list of the known types of speedo drive fitted to an allegro, I could possibly work out which one would be needed for this unit. Need to gain 208 turns per mile. Probably a drive gear with one less tooth would do it. Places like Speedy Cables recalibrate them for £reasonable. Might be a better solution for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mally Posted August 12, 2018 Share Posted August 12, 2018 http://www.jdo1.com/contact_details.html This guy did my MGB.The front room of his (very nice) house is set up as a workshop.Proper Autoshite worker. Edit, looks a little expensive now, I didn't pay much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrbenn Posted August 12, 2018 Share Posted August 12, 2018 No idea? I've never done it before! Electronic dashes are easy, you just plug in with an appropriate scan tool and tell it that it's a different model. These mechanical beasts are of course rather different. If I do, what gear do I need to make this work? And where is a good source for them? I changed the speedo in the Minor to account for a change of differential and went from one that overread (normal) to one that was spot on - i.e. a bit pointless changing. Suggest to check it against a sat nav or phone app, it may not need altering. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiC Posted August 12, 2018 Author Share Posted August 12, 2018 Good point. There is a 10% difference between the two, so may be not so bad in use. So it'll read 10% too low high I think. If re-calibrated at say 60mph, then at 30mph it would only be 5% out? Maybe even pushing it slightly higher at 60mph to move that across. Or I'll just pull apart the speedo heads and swap the gubbins. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiC Posted August 12, 2018 Author Share Posted August 12, 2018 This document helps a lot. Found here: http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/Files/SpeedoRepair.pdfSpeedoRepair.pdf Especially this diagram: So I'm guessing that the worm gears and magnet wheel what defines the speed? Is the drag cup standard size? If so, looks like I only need to change the backend of the Speedo to make it work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilA Posted August 12, 2018 Share Posted August 12, 2018 Drag cup will be the same, just the gear that is driven by the worm will vary.Think if the worm gear as a gear with one tooth, it's a 1:x ratio to the other gear. If not that, why not keep the original (unless I missed something and it doesn't work) and change the fuel gauge for something else, volts or something, remove the FUEL carefully and redo the fuel gauge backing with Letraset or something? Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiC Posted August 12, 2018 Author Share Posted August 12, 2018 The single gauge is a lot larger than the twin gauges and so wouldn't fit. Even if the hole was made bigger. Don't I need to change the magnet spindle for the needle as well as the odometer gearing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilA Posted August 13, 2018 Share Posted August 13, 2018 No, the only thing that alters things is the number of teeth on the gear driven by the worm, so if it'll pull apart and you can transplant just the back section you should be fine. Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Felly Magic Posted August 13, 2018 Share Posted August 13, 2018 Target: I moved it on to 59k and wound it on by spinning the tenths digit to 60k. Then flicked it to 62k and carried on winding the tenths digit. Blimey, not giving it a haircut, but adding a toupe. only this could happen on the beige forum LOL CGSB 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilA Posted August 13, 2018 Share Posted August 13, 2018 Although, all you did here was negate to remove the inaccuracy of the odometer from the wheels turning more turns per mile because the tires were worn down to a slimmer diameter. Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alf892 Posted August 13, 2018 Share Posted August 13, 2018 On the Minor I was able to push each rotating tumbler in turn to the side and rotate it to show the digit required. I imagine the same would apply here.Refined method is to shave a matchstick down a bit......then slip this between the digits. Roll the matchstick gently between thumb and finger and you can move the adjacent digit and get it nice and straight. mrbenn 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiC Posted August 17, 2018 Author Share Posted August 17, 2018 After the welding practice yesterday, it's given me a huge amount of confidence to get this welding work done. I think I'm pretty much ready to go with it now. So last night I started scraping off the underseal. These bits were quite easy to do, it's the underside that is going to be the biggest pain. Especially as it's quite curved and contoured. Skizzer, egg and Coprolalia 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiC Posted August 17, 2018 Author Share Posted August 17, 2018 Pulled apart the other Speedo too. This to have a go at swapping the internal gubbins. Ended up having to swap that plastic arm bit back onto the other one. This is the part that pushes the odometer around. The other bit I swapped was the odometer cog. Not too bad. Remove this thin plastic stay ring. Remove the metal spring. And pull the cog off. Blue is the higher Ticks Per Mile cog. It's slightly bigger and has more teeth. Put it all back in the other one and gave it a test. MPH was a fair bit slower which is good, as that means it works. However the odometer stopped moving. Opening up made it obvious why - the teeth go in the opposite way. Looking back at the original Speedo, the odometer is at the top and thus needs to tick backwards compared to the other. Blast. Kind of a dead end with this at the moment and run out of ideas. The MG Midget Speedo is the right Ticks Per Mile and has the odometer on the bottom. So I may be able to scavenge some parts from an old one of them. Or check the size as it possibly may fit? Either way, they're not particularly cheap to buy second hand though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulgalour Posted August 17, 2018 Share Posted August 17, 2018 Full marks for bloodymindedness with the cluster. I'm guessing there's not just a part you can simply turn around for the odometer to read properly? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Reverend Bluejeans Posted August 17, 2018 Share Posted August 17, 2018 It would be rather easier just to slot a 3.65 diff in the gearbox. BeEP 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiC Posted August 17, 2018 Author Share Posted August 17, 2018 It would be rather easier just to slot a 3.65 diff in the gearbox.What diff is standard in these? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiC Posted August 17, 2018 Author Share Posted August 17, 2018 Full marks for bloodymindedness with the cluster. I'm guessing there's not just a part you can simply turn around for the odometer to read properly?Unfortunately there is another cog behind that coloured one. This holds the odometer numbers in place and locks the numbers in place when not moving (like a ratchet). Putting it on the other side doesn't allow it to fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Reverend Bluejeans Posted August 17, 2018 Share Posted August 17, 2018 What diff is standard in these? 4.1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiC Posted August 17, 2018 Author Share Posted August 17, 2018 So 3.6 diff would make it accelerate quicker? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeEP Posted August 17, 2018 Share Posted August 17, 2018 What diff is standard in these? 4.13:1 in the 1100, 3.65:1 in the 1300 (as Rev BJ alludes to). I drove an 1100 fitted with a one litre A+ and 3.65 diff for a number of years; it was fine, so I'm sure an 1100 will be too. Maybe just be prepared for a queue behind you if you take it up Dundry hill! Christine and SiC 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeEP Posted August 17, 2018 Share Posted August 17, 2018 So 3.6 diff would make it accelerate quicker? No, 3.65 will make it accelerate slower, but be more refined at cruising speeeds (lower number = higher gearing) SiC 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now