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The Austin 2dr 1100 story - Part IV

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381 replies to this topic

#361 OFFLINE   purplebargeken

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Posted 19 July 2018 - 09:14 AM

Is there any magical fluid to flush this type of system out perhaps before refilling with the correct devils brew?


Hyundai i10 auto - white goods shite

Rover 75 1.8 auto - wafty kettle

Ford Galaxy - big red shite with added space

Triumph Toledo - 2.0 for added sleeper shite

Triumph Dolomite 1850 auto - crusty shite

MG ZT Mean Green Machine

MGF 1.8 VVC BRG floppytop shite


#362 ONLINE   SiC

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Posted 19 July 2018 - 09:16 AM

I have read that methylated spirits work quite well for flushing through.
Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
Moderns: 2008 Audi TT - Utterly boring but very compentent, 2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying.

#363 OFFLINE   sharley17194

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Posted 19 July 2018 - 10:18 AM

Dont worry about the pressure its the ride height that is measured with the engine in, there can be pressure differences left to right. As for the bulging thats normal. You are doing a cracking job keep up the good work!!!"

If you take one of these:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2018071...
£28 delivered next day. Search water pressure tester on eBay/Amazon. I ordered this one in particular as I could have it delivered to a local Amazon locker guaranteed next day for the same as the red ones that have no set date to be delivered.

And one of these:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2018071...
Schrader 556 - cheapest in the UK I found here: https://www.lasaero....ticle/N04HO75SL
£38 delivered. Usually used for coupling to aircraft tyres to inflate them. Made by the actual company who invented Schrader valves.

Finally, not one of these:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2018071...
This is a 1/4" BSPT to 1/8" NPT. However the end is tapered. The cheap Chinese hose appears to be BSPP which is straight thread. I bodged it for now by adding extra fibre washers and tightened up really tight. For replacement I've ordered this: https://rover.ebay.c...tm/131438350522
£3 delivered.



Screw it all together.

You get this:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2018071...
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2018071...

Which can do this! Quite comical when it's deflated. Looks like some low-riding yank tank.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2018071...
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2018071...

Fluid started coming out clean. Oily/dark looking water suddenly started being ejected and mixing.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2018071...

Then it went a bit disgusting near the end.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2018071...

It can also pump it back up again. Right now with water as my new fluid is at work.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2018071...

Might have put too much in this side as the top of the hydrolastic strut is looking a bit bulging out. Both sides read 100psi originally. Not sure how true that is as the gauges are known to lie. But there is also no engine weighting it down either and increasing pressure. Didn't take too many pumps to bring it back up either. I pumped that side up to 200psi indicated as it seemed lower at that level than the other. I remembered then that the drivers tyre was flat. So I pumped that back up to resume correct height!

I think I have read that Hydrolastic can operate around 400psi or so. If that is the case them I'm not too worried about the pressure being a bit higher for now. Plus tomorrow I can bring the proper fluid home to drain and refill this. At least this gives it all a bit of a flush through.

Whole lot all in was about £70. You can buy them ready made here - which influenced my design (i.e. I copied):
https://rover.ebay.c...tm/352405947560

A fair bit more expensive but everyone needs to make a living and it's ready to go as a unit. I'm just too cheap to do that though.

Only thing it doesn't do is vacuum the system out. However apparently you can get away with just slightly over inflating it, leaving it and then letting some out. I reckon though another pump could have its input modified to act as a vacuum pump.

However its alright as it is for now. A very useful tool to have. If necessary it can get me to a local garage safely for a full hydrolastic service.


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#364 OFFLINE   sharley17194

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Posted 19 July 2018 - 10:21 AM

With the valve, the middle bit is same as a car tyre, try swapping that rather than the full valve. If you balls it you i have a spare displacer and pipe... hahah

 

As for flushing, I've honestly never bothered, if had both units on the floor flushed and within 2 months there is shit floating round in them again.


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#365 ONLINE   SiC

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Posted 19 July 2018 - 10:31 AM

I was hoping that someone would say that! So I should be able to swap out the valve core with a standard valve core remover tool?

I'm really hoping that draining the system has flushed out any crap that was in the system and allowing it to seal properly. I'll find out tonight if the small bit of kitchen roll over the valve has absorbed any fluid.

I really want to avoid trying to undo that coupling between the cylinder and connecting pipe. I think any more stress on that pipe will shear and snap the pipe. Part of this cars charm for me is the hydrolastic suspension. There is a fascination of a old technology that isn't used any more but that is still capable of extremely good results. For me the simplicity & cheapness of a Hydrolastic system both in manufacturing and operation intrigues. Hence I don't want to convert it into individual cylinders and I really want to retain the interlinking, so I can properly experience how/what it is like.

If I loose that, I'll loose a good part of the reason why I need to be doing all this work on the car.
Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
Moderns: 2008 Audi TT - Utterly boring but very compentent, 2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying.

#366 ONLINE   SiC

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Posted 19 July 2018 - 07:53 PM



Valve appeared to have some minor drippage but nothing serious. So drained and refilled the suspension with proper fluid. It now drips out fluid quite prefusly. I'm hoping that replacing the valve core will fix it. Also hoping it's not the valve seat that's buggered, just the rubber seal.

Also quite a possibility that the valve core will be siezed in too. :?
  • johngarty likes this
Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
Moderns: 2008 Audi TT - Utterly boring but very compentent, 2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying.

#367 ONLINE   SiC

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Posted 19 July 2018 - 09:47 PM

Have I ever said I hate brake fluid and hydraulic brakes? If I haven't, I'm saying now. Messy stuff and another fluid I'm fearful of spilling leading to my cat licking it up and poisoning herself.

Anyway these pictures show roughly what I've removed. Mostly here for me as future reference on their routing. Pretty sure I'm going to replace most of the pipework as a matter of course. Well I need to replace the solid line to the nearside anyway, as it fractured at the join when undoing it.

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With all that out of the way, it give me a good chance to clean up pick at this bit.
ae6eba3a8a86da6f4e878a801541bab9.jpg
  • vulgalour likes this
Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
Moderns: 2008 Audi TT - Utterly boring but very compentent, 2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying.

#368 ONLINE   SiC

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Posted 19 July 2018 - 09:52 PM

Last of the jobs to do before welding now. Remaining ones won't take long to do.
855f4f4c4b110f5d5e85ad63fea013bc.jpg

Progress from now will halt a bit as 1) I still need to put torch to metal and learn to weld, 2) I am going to buy a proper replacement ado16 front floor panel.

First I'm hoping to have a friend around soon to give me a crash course. My (well Mrs SiC) main concern is how to do it all safely without setting fire to the garage/putting holes in the neighbors fence/blinding the cat or giving her arc-eye.

Second has to wait for payday. Still need to pay this months holiday off. A holiday to keep me in the other halfs good books. Especially as the attention I give this car tests her patience at times.
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Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
Moderns: 2008 Audi TT - Utterly boring but very compentent, 2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying.

#369 ONLINE   Geep

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Posted 19 July 2018 - 10:58 PM

You're no doubt aware of it but in case not, and if others aren't:

 

https://www.mig-welding.co.uk

 

Some helpful videos on there as well as discussions on forum part of site.


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#370 OFFLINE   vulgalour

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Posted 19 July 2018 - 11:14 PM

You got through that list fast!  You're making great progress on this.



#371 ONLINE   SiC

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Posted 20 July 2018 - 12:15 PM

Like you said earlier on this thread, this car is a breeze to work on. Fasteners are easily got to and not rusted up either. The subframe mount bolt were pretty crusty but I could easily get the impact wrench in to wizz them off. Access to most parts is way better than the MGB.

Getting really itchy to start welding as if I don't I'll get held up not doing it. Especially with this good weather at the moment.
  • Vince70 and GrumpiusMaximus like this
Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
Moderns: 2008 Audi TT - Utterly boring but very compentent, 2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying.

#372 ONLINE   SiC

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Posted Yesterday, 12:02 AM

My wife always moans at me that I make a mess where ever I go. I always say that it's just her cleaning standards are too high. However every so often, I step back and have to agree with her premise.
1982cdc94c32fabac74cc79d991848d1.jpg

With it raining for the first time in ages, I decided to start a few jobs that can be done indoors. As the tank was sitting outside, I thought it prudent to have a look at it.

As stated earlier in this thread, it's in pretty good nick. On top were some Hessian type pads that I assume isolate the tank from the body. These were glued down and in removing them, took the paint off.
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The paint on the sides and bottom are what need the most attention.
d475a6af69019c3f8cac3a111019f62d.jpg

On the bottom is what looks to be underseal. Using a poundland scraper fitted with Stanley blades, I spent a good hour cleaning it off.
1982cdc94c32fabac74cc79d991848d1.jpg

I also had to remove the old fuel pickup connection. The pipe is completely had it and didn't take much to cut off. Then a 15mm socket fitted snuggly onto the connection and removed without too much effort required.
adcf8b74c3ba10f14fc6795dc1e6f6b4.jpg
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I had no idea what state the fuel sender was in so I took it out. Handily it appears the sender mounting ring and seal are identical to an MGB, so I have spares on the shelf to replace them. With the sender out it gave another good chance to have a look inside.
4cfb5ef7dcaed831782a8fd95cb3972e.jpg
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Nothing too tragic in there. Especially as the bottom outside has the most rust. I pretty certain its all just surface rust.

The sender itself was siezed solid. Also the thin connecting wire had snapped too. There was no hope of this working as it was.
d2476fbdc2cad7fcfbe8f225a804737b.jpg
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There doesn't seem to be any identical sender's that I can replace this with. Others of similar vintage look the same but are not. I was hoping to be able to buy a new one and use the new resistive wire section with the old arm. However nothing I can find comes close.

For now, I decided to give this a chance by repairing it.

Pulling it apart and spraying liberal amounts of GT85 freed up the arm.
0017d2319be7efc63c942e6c1b1c4334.jpg

The wire was more troublesome. Despite plenty of heat, flux and solder, the resitive wire was resisting all attempts at being soldered together. I think this is because resitive wire is nichrome or something and regular solder won't do a thing. So instead I extracted a turn of wire from the windings and used a pair of thin pliers to twist the wire together. Then squeezed it tight to hopefully make a good connection.
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It only bloody worked.


I hope it stays fixed as the sender is on the top of the tank. So to get back at it would require removing the exhaust and dropping the tank again.

Hopefully this weekend I'll get a chance to finish stripping the old underseal and clean the rust off. After that, give it a fresh lick of paint to protect the exterior metal.
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Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
Moderns: 2008 Audi TT - Utterly boring but very compentent, 2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying.

#373 OFFLINE   vulgalour

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Posted Yesterday, 02:03 AM

Brilliant repair there.  I thought there was an access panel in the boot floor above the sender, to the driver's side somewhere and black if memory serves.



#374 OFFLINE   sharley17194

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Posted Yesterday, 06:30 AM

your drippy suspension will be caused by shiet under the valve seat. take the core out using a cheap tool that you can get for tyres mine was from the £1 shop. clean and fit a new valve core. I predict your drippy drip drio with stop. Don't fret about splitting the pipes I've done hundreds with a good success rate. if you do fluff the pipe up I cam advise how to replace it. I assume you are taking both subframes off anyway? you'd be mental not to as you are this far and it will help with welding repairs.

#375 ONLINE   SiC

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Posted Yesterday, 08:08 AM

I've got a valve core tool coming from eBay. Hopefully will be here by Monday.

Dropping the subframes could be a right pain on my drive due to access. I want to get the floor all sorted and welded in before I do consider dropping them. Would be nice to get behind at the minimum and give it a good clean and degrease. If I do drop them, I probably won't be able to do both together due to access.

Access to the sender wise, there are two rubber bungs on top. These however I think are just for access to the rear hydrolastic pipe couplers. The other access panel that's on the side is access to disconnect the flex petrol pipe from the rigid and where an optional electronic fuel pump can go. I don't think there is any other access up on top.
Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
Moderns: 2008 Audi TT - Utterly boring but very compentent, 2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying.

#376 OFFLINE   vulgalour

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Posted Yesterday, 12:53 PM

My memory was tricking me, I had a look back at photos after reading your description.  I was thinking of the panel to the bottom right here, which is completely the wrong place for accessing the fuel sender.

 

35862687305_8b72d6fd4e_b.jpg



#377 ONLINE   SiC

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Posted Yesterday, 12:59 PM

Yeah the solid line from the tank joins up there and it goes into a short flexy to a solid line to the front. Also the sender wire goes out there. Looking at other ado16, those that are less poverty spec have an electric fuel pump sticking out there instead.
Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
Moderns: 2008 Audi TT - Utterly boring but very compentent, 2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying.

#378 OFFLINE   DeeJay

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Posted Yesterday, 01:11 PM

If the sender is a bit iffy it might be helpful in the long run to cut an access hole in the floor now.



#379 ONLINE   SiC

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Posted Yesterday, 01:27 PM

That's the only metal panel on the car that isn't holed thru rust though! :D
Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
Moderns: 2008 Audi TT - Utterly boring but very compentent, 2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying.

#380 OFFLINE   Eddie Honda

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Posted Yesterday, 02:38 PM

Looking at other ado16, those that are less poverty spec older have an electric fuel pump sticking out there instead.


FTFY

#381 OFFLINE   DeeJay

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Posted Yesterday, 02:40 PM

That's the only metal panel on the car that isn't holed thru rust though! :D

 

That's a shame, could've used a screwdriver instead of a grinder.



#382 ONLINE   Hooli

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Posted Yesterday, 02:43 PM

That's the only metal panel on the car that isn't holed thru rust though! :D

 

Paint the edges brown so it matches then.


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