Project The Austin 2dr 1100 story - Part IV - Now in sharleys hands

[SiC]

Thats the ad from the second time we owned it, my brother wrote that...

 

i saved it from certain scrap but i never in a million years thought it would still be here now. Nor did i think someone would try and restore it...again. I didn't bodge the car just never poked some of the previous bodges. I got it as a rust free car, i was probably blinded by ebay wording and having driven over to Preston from Nottingham i wasn't going home empty handed. It was a shed then (Shed is the name we gave it.) and this was 8 years ago. Thats one of the reasons i hand painted it black, simply to make it look one colour. I wish i had some pics of it when i first get her. Its a credit to you Vulgalour and SiC for taking on this project. 

 

I know how hard it is to do projects, they take twice as long as expected and twice as much as you hoped. They are so worth it in the end.

 

I loved this car and always will, its by far my favorite car, it would go any where and do anything you asked it. I did fit a 1300 GT engine and twin carbs which made it move down the road a little better...I still have the original harvest gold seats from it, they are vile beyond belief!

Shame you didn't keep that engine in it.

The 1100 unit in this is a little peach though. Starts and idles with no problem - even after not being started for literally months on end. Didn't blow any smoke out when cold, revved freely and smoothly. No real noticeable tappet rattle either.

 

If I didn't take this on, I think there would have been a fairly good chance it would have been bought by someone that rip the engine and the shell cubed.

[sharley17194]

Ive been trying not to buy it back every time it comes for sale,  currently have 6 project i just dont have the time for it, but i agree id hate to see it cubed, Oddly the first time i sold it the guy didnt want the GT engine, he wanted it 'original' with the original engine. GT engine was sold afterwards for more than he paid for the car. 

 

Shame you didn't keep that engine in it.
The 1100 unit in this is a little peach though. Starts and idles with no problem - even after not being started for literally months on end. Didn't blow any smoke out when cold, revved freely and smoothly. No real noticeable tappet rattle either.

If I didn't take this on, I think there would have been a fairly good chance it would have been bought by someone that rip the engine and the shell c

[vulgalour]

If you're still hunting for seam sealer in a tin, you can get 'grey stripe' brand from Halfords.  It's reasonable enough stuff and easy to clean up.  You can probably get it in larger quantities for less online.

[SiC]

If you're still hunting for seam sealer in a tin, you can get 'grey stripe' brand from Halfords.  It's reasonable enough stuff and easy to clean up.  You can probably get it in larger quantities for less online.

I've bought some of this: https://www.toolstation.com/shop/Adhesives+%26+Sealants/d180/General+Sealants/sd2350/Puraflex+40+High+Modulus+PU+Sealant+%26+Adhesive+300ml/p67949

Cheap but still apparently pretty good for seam sealing.

 

Did you use the u-pol stuff on the 1100? It smells very weird when you're sanding it! Also makes some funky colours if it heats up from welds.

[vulgalour]

I did, yes.  Not enough, in some places.  It is very strange stuff when you get some heat into it.

[sharley17194]

thats certainly cheap! i might have to try that i always use the brush on stuff...https://www.advancedpaints.co.uk/product/over-paintable-brushable-seam-sealer-1kg-1-kg/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2PXqzqDY3QIVDLTtCh2sXAadEAQYASABEgL9zPD_BwE

 

I've bought some of this: https://www.toolstation.com/shop/Adhesives+%26+Sealants/d180/General+Sealants/sd2350/Puraflex+40+High+Modulus+PU+Sealant+%26+Adhesive+300ml/p67949
Cheap but still apparently pretty good for seam sealing.

Did you use the u-pol stuff on the 1100? It smells very weird when you're sanding it! Also makes some funky colours if it heats up from welds.

[SiC]

That stuff from Toolstation is made by Silka of Silkaflex fame.

 

I was hoping to get a lot done last week but an eye infection put a stop to that. Got some PU down on the fresh welds. The paint looked quite good but now after my attempt of squirting that crap on all the bits it looks rubbish. Reminded me how much I hate caulking. I'm rubbish at it! No pics because it's that bad.

 

Today I've got to help my FiL put a shed up, so yesterday night while I was waiting for power tool batteries to charge I did a bit of fiddling. Decided to inspect and clean up the switches.

 

Contacts were pretty filthy.

 

One thing I noticed was that the contact slider looked to be made of copper. How does it not go green when off? Is there some sort of grease put on to keep it clean?

 

Anyway I now have a collection of switches. Anyone got suggestions on what I do to revive the chrome finish? I'm wondering if it might be better to spray with a black finish it similar instead.

 

In other news, the new argon gas cylinder seems to be holding pressure between it and the regulator without leaking. This is with the main gas tap off and a good week sat there like this.

[SiC]

What thickness metal should I use for this inner membrane for the sill? I've got plenty of 20swg (0.8mm) I can use but not sure if it should be 18swg (1.0mm) or even nearer to 1.2mm?

 

Sill structure looks like this:

 

Number 2 is the bit that I need to remake.

[dozeydustman]

Anyway I now have a collection of switches. Anyone got suggestions on what I do to revive the chrome finish? I'm wondering if it might be better to spray with a black finish it similar instead.

 

 

For a quid it's surely worth a bash

 

https://www.sprayster.com/product/silver-chrome-effect-aerosol-spray-cans-200ml-cars-bikes-auto-spray-paint/

[MorrisItalSLX]

You could try the chrome pen as featured in the shite in miniature thread.

[vulgalour]

Aluminium tape works and if you're patient you can even get it to conform to the shape of the surround.  Make sure you use enough to wrap around the back to both hold it in place and hide the edges.  It'll be no less fragile than the original finish.

[SiC]

Lovely day out there, so perfect day for 1100 fettling.

 

What's today then? Instead of me rambling in text, let's try me rambling mumbling away on a video instead.

[Video]

[SiC]

Hmm. After quite a bit of time digging for metal that isn't tin foil, I've found some. This is going to be a long day reattaching this wheel arch. I'm not going to guarantee that it's going to look anything like a 1100 wheel arch afterwards!

 

[Scruffy Bodger]

Sic, I'm no expert but can I suggest that sometimes you're better off cutting more out rather than the bare minimum. Also instead of cutting random bits out pick a defined line, straight or curve and stick to it. Cutting more out will allow you to more easily create the inner arch, working from the outside rather than the inside and cutting the curve of the arch out will make it easier than random in and outy bits.

 

 

 

 

[SiC]

Good thinking. I'm chopping more out now. Tempting to buy a replacement rear arch so I can get a nice curve rather than trying to make one. Looks complex metal work to do.

 

Cutting this bit back especially as it's a bit messy underneath.

 

Also this is why I wear loads of PPE and guards on the grinders.

 

Hit a big chunk of metal inside and it kicked back. Then hit another bit and shattered. Pretty non dramatic because it was all shielded.

[SiC]

How do you manage to cut such perfectly round sections in the body?

[dozeydustman]

How do you manage to cut such perfectly round sections in the body?

 

 

A nibbler. For £35 it's probably worth it, and you can always use it on your next* resto.

 

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-dhc-2-double-headed-metal-nibbler/?da=1&TC=GS-060720233&gclid=Cj0KCQjw3ebdBRC1ARIsAD8U0V4547pYuV1pX9zyHHzNVXwP7Axe5yjD-SwtEMGLQX9ydFiMMy4YAFMaAiHhEALw_wcB

[SiC]

Even with that I don't think I'd manage roundness!

[Scruffy Bodger]

How do you manage to cut such perfectly round sections in the body?

 

Mainly because I have used a grinder many, many times I should think? I can think of a few tips though.

 

1. If you can, use a handle, it gives far more control and helps if you have little moments like you just had.

2. It's sheet metal but you don't have to go through in one go. Scribe a line with the grinder first and then follow the line afterwards.

3. Only cut through the barest minimum if cutting a curve, the deeper you go with the disk the straighter a line you will be forced to cut.

4. Where access is possible save a few worn disks, the smaller radius helps with number 3.

[SiC]

Got the new arch profile kinda round.

 

 

Wheel doesn't stick out still either.

 

I wonder if I could get away with putting some arch extensions on from something else. Could also put wider wheels on then.

 

 

Joking ... Maybe?

[Scruffy Bodger]

Good effort Maybe put a line of masking tape around it and cut/sand back to the line accordingly? The more uniform it is the easier to make the replacement bit and the smaller the gaps the easier/quicker it is to weld back together.

[vulgalour]

Hello, the 1970s, I'd like to order some bubble arches and the widest Carlos Fandango wheels you've got, please.

[Mally]

I wonder if I could get away with putting some arch extensions on from something else. Could also put wider wheels on then.

 

 

Joking ... Maybe?

 

I have 4 mini fibreglass extensions.

You may need smaller wheels though.

 

Edit, they are massive, must be for 13" wheels I think.

 

 

 

[SiC]

I have 4 mini fibreglass extensions.

You may need smaller wheels though.

 

Edit, they are massive, must be for 13" wheels I think.

 

Mini arch 001.JPG

Something like those is exactly what I was thinking of. Ridiculous and spoil a ado16, or cool and different looking? I do have a set of rostyle MGB wheels spare and I know the PCD on them is ado16 size.

 

I'm probably going to just weld it up thr arch as is for now. I've got eleventy billion other jobs to do on this car. I can always make the arch original or (if feeling lazy) fit extensions on another time.

[Mally]

Where they attach to the body they are 28" wide across the bottom, approx 10" high at centre.

I can post them if you wish at minimal cost or less.

[vulgalour]

Fabricating the shape will be a pain without a shrinker/stretcher tool.  You can probably get the profile in a straight line by bending and bashing some steel over a broom handle and you might be able to pie cut it to make it a curve, like the template in Scruffy's post a bit further up the page. For the amount of work, you're as well keeping an eye out for a repair arch, they do pop up now and again, and if you're happy to use cheaper pattern parts you might get one for as little as £15 on eBay or through the ADO16 forum.

[JeeExEll]

Got the new arch profile kinda round.

 

 

Wheel doesn't stick out still either.

 

I wonder if I could get away with putting some arch extensions on from something else. Could also put wider wheels on then.

 

 

Joking ... Maybe?

1970s.

 

You may need to get some wide 13" diameter slotmags tho.

 

Actually doesn't look that difficult to do, make templates, transfer to sheet steel for outer arches and 'closing' panels, and Herbert Austin's your uncle. You don't have to worry too much about originality, period 70s custom style and methods. Bit of fun and enjoyment making it all on a budget and learning as you go along.

Just an idea. Could look quite neat on a 2-door ADO16. Pics 2 and 3 tell the story.

SiC I'm really impressed with your progress with this car given that you'd no previous experience in this type of work.

[SiC]

Wheel arch reattached. Got to grind these back in a sec.

 

Then figure out how the hell I'm going to tackle this hole.

[SiC]

Quite pleased how this has turned out.

 

As only the edge is welded and also has been ground back, I can't imagine it'll be max massive strength. But then I don't think this bit is structural rigidity anyway.

 

If I can get a repair section with the curve, I'll weld it on top and filler to make a nice smooth transition.

[SiC]

 

 

Sic, I'm no expert but can I suggest that sometimes you're better off cutting more out rather than the bare minimum. Also instead of cutting random bits out pick a defined line, straight or curve and stick to it. Cutting more out will allow you to more easily create the inner arch, working from the outside rather than the inside and cutting the curve of the arch out will make it easier than random in and outy bits.

 

 

 

Is that wheel arch repair piece one of these universal jobbies?

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F122210763424

 

 

I have 4 mini fibreglass extensions.

You may need smaller wheels though.

 

Edit, they are massive, must be for 13" wheels I think.

 

Mini arch 001.JPG

Just measured and the width is good but they're not high/wide enough.

 

 

1970s.

 

You may need to get some wide 13" diameter slotmags tho.

 

Actually doesn't look that difficult to do, make templates, transfer to sheet steel for outer arches and 'closing' panels, and Herbert Austin's your uncle. You don't have to worry too much about originality, period 70s custom style and methods. Bit of fun and enjoyment making it all on a budget and learning as you go along.

Just an idea. Could look quite neat on a 2-door ADO16. Pics 2 and 3 tell the story.

SiC I'm really impressed with your progress with this car given that you'd no previous experience in this type of work.

The nearside has been previously repaired in a similar fashion.

 

I am quite fancying doing something with those arches and customise it. Not quite to Vulgalour levels but a mild bit of fettling.