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The Austin 2dr 1100 story - Part IV - Welding & Engine/Clutch work

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1046 replies to this topic

#1021 OFFLINE   Mally

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Posted 15 November 2018 - 07:07 PM

You'll have the crank out in an hour. It has to come out to fit the upper shells.

Eh?

Is there a reason you can't just rotate the top shell out?



#1022 OFFLINE   Mally

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Posted 15 November 2018 - 07:10 PM

Harsh!

 

 

Sorry, 3 months.



#1023 OFFLINE   alf892

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Posted 15 November 2018 - 07:35 PM

Eh?
Is there a reason you can't just rotate the top shell out?


Really you need to clean the caps/rods with wet and dry to do a proper job and avoid tight spots.

It needs to turn smoothly by hand when all done. Clean everything and it will.......scrimp on cleaning and it likely won't.
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#1024 ONLINE   SiC

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Posted 15 November 2018 - 07:40 PM



You'll have the crank out in an hour. It has to come out to fit the upper shells.


Removing the crank is not my concern, it's more the cost of a regrind/polish. Looking like around £130 or so to have it done locally here. Still got plenty of other stuff I need to buy and if having it ground is something that doesn't really need doing, then I'd rather put that money elsewhere.

If the crank is smooth having it polished at an engineering place to remove minor marks costs relatively little, I wouldn't attempt it myself unless I was putting it through the auctions etc.
The area where the shells fit needs to be eat your dinner off it clean, you can scrape the block area they seat into without worry - it's not unknown for a bit of white metal to stick (or weld itself) on there.
Crank needs to rotate once the new shells are fitted, use plenty of lubrication. Do them one at a time and ensure the crank doesn't lock up.
Fitting new shells without touching the crank isn't going to cause anything else to bugger up unless you fit the shells wrong.


If fitting new shells isn't going to bugger anything else up, whats the advantage of having the crank ground/polished?
Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
Moderns: 2008 Audi TT - Utterly boring but very compentent, 2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying.

#1025 OFFLINE   Mally

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Posted 15 November 2018 - 08:25 PM

Advantage of having the crank ground and polished is if you put it together correctly it will run forever.

If you polish the crank and fit new mains it may run forever.

If you just fit the shells it will run for a while, before you have to strip it all down, grind the crank, and fit new shells,

 

Question is how long's a while, and will you still own it?


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#1026 OFFLINE   The Reverend Bluejeans

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Posted 15 November 2018 - 09:05 PM

Removing the crank is not my concern, it's more the cost of a regrind/polish. Looking like around £130 or so to have it done locally here. Still got plenty of other stuff I need to buy and if having it ground is something that doesn't really need doing, then I'd rather put that money elsewhere.


If fitting new shells isn't going to bugger anything else up, whats the advantage of having the crank ground/polished?

 

 

You're thinking too much. Get the crank out, whip some 800 grit around the mains to clean them up and reassemble with new shells. That's it. It's an old 1100, not an M3.


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#1027 ONLINE   SiC

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Posted 15 November 2018 - 11:57 PM

Genuinely a bit bummed that the engine is going to need more work. Was hoping it would be a case of giving stuff a quick clean, oil and button it all back together.

Not sure I trust myself to attack the crank with sandpaper. When I have some sort of material removal product in hand, it has a habit of ending up a bit like this:
2j0mgkn.jpg

So I think at this point it would be a good idea for me to get professionals in on that crank. I might go give these local guys a visit:
http://www.pricebros...aft-repairs.php

Hopefully it'll just need a polish and won't cost too much.
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Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
Moderns: 2008 Audi TT - Utterly boring but very compentent, 2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying.

#1028 OFFLINE   captain_70s

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Posted 16 November 2018 - 12:13 AM

Are you going to clock up the thousands of miles required to wear away your new shells?

 

If you don't want to pay out the money to have the crank polished right now just shove some new shells in and finish the car. Drive it around, decide if you're going to keep it. If you are going to keep it whip the engine back out and get the crank done when you have the funds. If you aren't, fuck it.


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26707358839_1b301cd015_o.jpg


#1029 ONLINE   SiC

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Posted 16 November 2018 - 12:24 AM

Are you going to clock up the thousands of miles required to wear away your new shells?

I have no idea to be honest. Quite a possibility I will do. Not least that all the work and effort so far on it makes the car feel quite personal.

If you don't want to pay out the money to have the crank polished right now just shove some new shells in and finish the car. Drive it around, decide if you're going to keep it. If you are going to keep it whip the engine back out and get the crank done when you have the funds. If you aren't, fuck it.


This is exactly what I was pondering about doing. Hence my question earlier on if it's likely to sustain any more damage elsewhere if I just change the mains. Especially as it ran so well when I started it. At least I now have an oil pressure gauge to keep an eye on things. :D

At least the engine is a piece of piss to pull out of this. Pretty sure I could get it out in a day again on my own easily enough. But then if a professional polish is like 80-100 quid or so, it almost doesn't make sense to not have it done. It'll cost nearly that in replacement gaskets and main+big end shells to do it all again.

Btw, I'd love to see what your Dollys mains + big end bearing and crank look like!
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Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
Moderns: 2008 Audi TT - Utterly boring but very compentent, 2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying.

#1030 OFFLINE   captain_70s

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Posted 16 November 2018 - 12:45 AM

Btw, I'd love to see what your Dollys mains + big end bearing and crank look like!

 

Judging by the sounds the bearings no longer exist and the big ends are simply in direct contact with the crank. Can't have worn shells if there aren't any shells, thus the car needs no repairs.


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#1031 ONLINE   sharley17194

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Posted 16 November 2018 - 11:25 AM

the wore that can happen is the oil pressure will slowly drop and it will knock, it could be years before that happens. Don't think just do it. TBF if you take things apart expect issues, i find blissful ignorance is the best way forward hands down. Dont look oyu will never know.


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#1032 ONLINE   Eddie Honda

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Posted 16 November 2018 - 12:40 PM

At least I now have an oil pressure gauge to keep an eye on things. :D


Wack it all back together and worry later...

oilworrygauge.jpg
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#1033 ONLINE   SiC

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Posted 16 November 2018 - 01:38 PM

the wore that can happen is the oil pressure will slowly drop and it will knock, it could be years before that happens. Don't think just do it. TBF if you take things apart expect issues, i find blissful ignorance is the best way forward hands down. Dont look oyu will never know.


This is why I'm not removing the head!
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Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
Moderns: 2008 Audi TT - Utterly boring but very compentent, 2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying.

#1034 ONLINE   fastblatt

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Posted 16 November 2018 - 01:52 PM

Yep I’m for new bearings and put it back together as is

#1035 OFFLINE   Mally

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Posted 16 November 2018 - 02:31 PM

Whatever you do.

Don't use Sandpaper.



#1036 ONLINE   sharley17194

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Posted 16 November 2018 - 02:34 PM

I would take the head off and replace the gasket but don't look to much!

 

This is why I'm not removing the head!



#1037 ONLINE   SiC

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Posted 16 November 2018 - 02:42 PM

How different is a Minor 1098cc crank to the one in this?

Charles Ware is only down the road from me, so this could be a very easy thing for me to do.
https://www.morrismi...BCABEgKPSvD_BwE
Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
Moderns: 2008 Audi TT - Utterly boring but very compentent, 2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying.

#1038 OFFLINE   The Reverend Bluejeans

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Posted 16 November 2018 - 04:32 PM

How different is a Minor 1098cc crank to the one in this?

 

 

 

Very - there's no tail for the primary gear!

 

800 grit and wet and dry, plenty of WD 40. Be right in no time.


MASTER RACE MOTORS.

 

1989 F  730i. Prestigious.

1994 M 318Ti - Track whore

2008 Golf GTI 3dr 6spd #VAGWANKER

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Money talks, but it don't sing and dance and it don't walk. And long as I can have you here with me, I'd much rather be, the Reverend Bluejeans, babe

 

 


#1039 ONLINE   sharley17194

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Posted 16 November 2018 - 04:47 PM

same bearing sand shells, as them if they can do yours. 

 

How different is a Minor 1098cc crank to the one in this?

Charles Ware is only down the road from me, so this could be a very easy thing for me to do.
https://www.morrismi...BCABEgKPSvD_BwE



#1040 OFFLINE   DodgeRover

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Posted 16 November 2018 - 06:10 PM

I think I used to pay £140 for a regrind on a 4 cylinder crank inc the shells.
Having it polished was obviously lots cheaper

#1041 OFFLINE   Christine

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Posted 16 November 2018 - 06:21 PM

It's a  long stroke ,small bore,  a series . It'll knock the shells out anyway,  reground , polished  or left alone... .just change the worn shells ,and change the pump , and don't rev the bollocks off it .  :-D  Be fine


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#1042 OFFLINE   richardthestag

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Posted 16 November 2018 - 06:42 PM

I recently had two Rover v8 cranks worked on, one polished and one ground.

 

Rover v8 crank has 5 mains and 4 big end journals (each one takes two conrods :) )

 

To grind the one that these shells came off cost me £260 + vat it was standard, had definitely seized due to oil starvation, and was ground 10thou

 

20180217_170036.jpg

 

The other crank just needed a polish and that cost £60 to polish and measure

 

what I am saying is that I agree with the "give it a polish and see what happens" folk ^^^

 

Crank needs to be out, soak wet n dry paper for 5 mins or so beforehand, I have done them with soap and warm water in the past. Get a strip of paper that is wide as the journal, wrap it around half of the journal and hold both ends of the paper strip one in each hand

 

then just whizz it back and forth. spin the crank 180 and do it again. when it looks clean and shiny. Blow through all the oilways with an air gun. if there is any sign of any crud use a pipe cleaner brushlike these. 

 

https://www.ebay.co....cm/262690180543

 

I do not know what size oilways you have so check em first

 

Next if you have a suitable micrometer you can check for oval'ing of the journals. it does happen over time as the greatest load will be on the thrust side of the bore. this puts uneven load on the bearings and journals. I note that you have taken nice original standard size Vandervell bearings out. These are nice and soft and should take more punishment than the crank journals. sadly unobtainium now so fit whatever you can get your hands on.

 

You can also measure the journal size and compare against the tolerance for a standard shell :) I think even Haynes publish the numbers

 

Lastly and with a set of standard shells you could always go belt and braces and use plastigage to confirm that the shells and crank are a perfect match

 

 


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#1043 OFFLINE   Noel Tidybeard

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Posted 16 November 2018 - 10:02 PM

Harsh!

 

accurate!


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#1044 ONLINE   SiC

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Posted 16 November 2018 - 10:04 PM

accurate!


But is it?
Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
Moderns: 2008 Audi TT - Utterly boring but very compentent, 2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying.

#1045 OFFLINE   Noel Tidybeard

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Posted 16 November 2018 - 10:23 PM

But is it?

maybe yes, maybe no :mrgreen:

 

post-20071-0-70679900-1501188553.jpg


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89 Sunnay L premium- hiding

 




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#1046 OFFLINE   Noel Tidybeard

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Posted 16 November 2018 - 10:24 PM

i spose if you do the bottom end of the bostin the mgmgmgmgbgt will be a peice-of-piss


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89 Sunnay L premium- hiding

 




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#1047 ONLINE   SiC

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Posted 16 November 2018 - 11:06 PM

Funnily enough I was only just up at the garage earlier this evening. It appears to be still there. Well over a years ownership of it now.
Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
Moderns: 2008 Audi TT - Utterly boring but very compentent, 2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying.





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