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The Austin 2dr 1100 story - Part IV - Welding & Engine/Clutch work

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1046 replies to this topic

#991 OFFLINE   Exiled_Tat_Gatherer

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Posted 08 November 2018 - 03:26 PM

Si, Firstly - great work on this…….

Secondly - I'm an idiot - I parked the SAAB in het naughty corner after bouts of exhaust steam OMGHGF anger and forgot the package of carpets and discs, pads etc..... in the boot! I've got them in het house and will send htem over - so sorry for delay. Accept as freebie - for me being an airhead!

 

Get them sent in the coming days - new contract a bit busy...… Sat morning I think will be earliest opportunity


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#992 OFFLINE   Squire_Dawson

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Posted 08 November 2018 - 06:03 PM

Next question. Where can you get rebuild kits for original SU mechanical fuel pumps? I don't see anything listed on their website.

I'll be rather upset if it can't be rebuilt. :?

 

They were not really meant to be rebuilt. If it is working (quick test - press plunger and place finger over inlet pipe, the plunger should hold on the vacuum until you remove your finger). They rarely give trouble and when they do there are no two ways about it. Another thing I'd leave well alone, but that's just me.


Squeak, rattle and roll.

 

 

Thanks restorer.

 

Save the Pangolins.

 

Current shite:

1952 Morris Oxford Series MO - Sidevalve Shite

1959 Humber Super Snipe - Gas guzzler

1962 Morris 1000 Traveller - English Tudorbethan

1975 Austin Allegro 1100 DL - m'Lod

 

Please look out for hedgehogs!


#993 OFFLINE   Squire_Dawson

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Posted 08 November 2018 - 06:07 PM

Are you doing any engine work, i.e. new bearings and crankshaft work, piston rings &c?


Squeak, rattle and roll.

 

 

Thanks restorer.

 

Save the Pangolins.

 

Current shite:

1952 Morris Oxford Series MO - Sidevalve Shite

1959 Humber Super Snipe - Gas guzzler

1962 Morris 1000 Traveller - English Tudorbethan

1975 Austin Allegro 1100 DL - m'Lod

 

Please look out for hedgehogs!


#994 ONLINE   SiC

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Posted 08 November 2018 - 06:28 PM

Si, Firstly - great work on this…….
Secondly - I'm an idiot - I parked the SAAB in het naughty corner after bouts of exhaust steam OMGHGF anger and forgot the package of carpets and discs, pads etc..... in the boot! I've got them in het house and will send htem over - so sorry for delay. Accept as freebie - for me being an airhead!
 
Get them sent in the coming days - new contract a bit busy...… Sat morning I think will be earliest opportunity


No worries. I've got a while yet till carpets will be going in. Need to make sure there is definitely no leaks as I certainly don't want them smelly and ruined. Thanks again for sending all this stuff, it'll be put to good use. :) 
 

Are you doing any engine work, i.e. new bearings and crankshaft work, piston rings &c?


No, not intending to. I'll check that middle main bearing and if it thats ok I'll assume its all ok. The engine runs sweetly as it is, so don't want to be changing stuff that doesn't need it. I'll probably keep the chain the same too.

If the grit had got around the rest of the engine, I'd been doing a bit more. However it looks all ok so far. Basically most of this engine mini rebuild is going to mostly consist of freeing the clutch, changing the oil pump and replacing most of the gaskets. While I remember, yes the tappet chest rubber seal was rock solid hard.

Picked up the gasket set from Moss, so I can start putting it together again soon. Surprising amount of stuff in kit came for my £16 - especially if I priced it all up separately. All the seals and gaskets I could see would be needed apart from head gasket.
  • RayMK likes this
Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
Moderns: 2008 Audi TT - Utterly boring but very compentent, 2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying.

#995 ONLINE   SiC

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Posted 09 November 2018 - 07:57 PM

The 1100 is famous! Unknowingly and possibly for the wrong reasons.

Got this magazine off a stand in the NEC.
b4e3f5549a105c30b7e8f0b048ef27b9.jpg

It's the bottom 3 pictures on here. The zebra duct tape gave this away for me. Looks mostly like the pictures Vulgalour took when he owned it. The subframe mount picture has been mirrored for some reason though?
be9f50831c85517bb234e93334c61a95.jpg
Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
Moderns: 2008 Audi TT - Utterly boring but very compentent, 2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying.

#996 OFFLINE   Remspoor

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Posted 09 November 2018 - 08:05 PM

Spares?

I have an Austin Westminster and use to purchase spares that maybe impossible to get elsewhere at Earlpart. I have found out they went bust earlier this year. Via a forum for other BMC products I found out the business has been purchased by a guy who runs

https://longbridgemotorspares.co.uk/

The posters speak highly of this chap. The links to his catalogues are with the Earlpart logo on them.

Give him a bell and see if he has what you are looking for.

I need spares after Christmas  so until then I can only repeat the info I have read.


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#997 ONLINE   SiC

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Posted 14 November 2018 - 07:06 PM

So I did some more stuff.

After scraping some of the black stuff in the gearbox, I decided that it wasn't that bad. The black stuff just felt like old oil - just a bit more sticky than oil usually is? It's not hard or really thick though. I'm pretty sure if was circulated around the engine it would cause no harm. Only a light coating too.

Instead I stuck it on its end in a oil drain tray and I went to town squirting in fresh oil. Then left it to drain overnight.
a5587762b766b223a8f0656090c344c5.jpg

Took off the centre bearing cap. This is what it looks like with the flash on and off.
61d09f67f2c3c13cab021b2e1bf8ff07.jpg
0ddac4aa13195a1a81dd9a88161b103b.jpg
83020fdefc72507cd43ee778752aa7e9.jpg
8b0c59ab515eb981473fb42436d29c48.jpg

I know you guys are probably going to tell me that I should be replacing those mains? :|

Was hoping to get it all buttoned up this and next week. I would like to start welding again but I don't want to risk grinding dust getting into the engines if it's still in pieces in the garage.

I'm going to guess that you're going to say this chain is stretched now and needs replacing too.
f3d14c2d709e48a620f2f8a97f41fcea.jpg
8383647e5bdd2ceb65f2c665dd9bed4c.jpg

Had a fiddle with the fuel pump. Was holding a vacuum pretty well. But you could hear a slight escape of air though. Hence pulled it apart.

Diaphragm looks to be in good nick.
43a73b74685293f547477b3de0898b73.jpg
4def75a72c6f67e7058e1464659ddf08.jpg
7c8113fdf58650b3154135bb99b9d38d.jpg
94e3086c00c406adbaec19be476b1a44.jpg
a5b632709760d277e9fd27d36c40a9e1.jpg

I gave the insides a clean up. Full of crud.
205ef6c2e1cb2aa727614923b5800e33.jpg
b36b08b3dc55241df0ed8a52a0f330f3.jpg

Put it back together and the top rubber seal snapped.
333785a015127c25cf9b10d51c67eb79.jpg

Naturally the pump works worse than it did before taking it apart...

(That rubber seal probably was end of life anyway)
  • Coprolalia and johngarty like this
Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
Moderns: 2008 Audi TT - Utterly boring but very compentent, 2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying.

#998 ONLINE   SiC

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Posted 14 November 2018 - 07:07 PM

Spares?
I have an Austin Westminster and use to purchase spares that maybe impossible to get elsewhere at Earlpart. I have found out they went bust earlier this year. Via a forum for other BMC products I found out the business has been purchased by a guy who runs
https://longbridgemotorspares.co.uk/
The posters speak highly of this chap. The links to his catalogues are with the Earlpart logo on them.
Give him a bell and see if he has what you are looking for.
I need spares after Christmas so until then I can only repeat the info I have read.

That's useful to know. Especially if it's possible to order from the old Earlpart catalogue. They probably wouldn't have gone bust if I started on this 1100 earlier. :D
  • somewhatfoolish, Christine and Remspoor like this
Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
Moderns: 2008 Audi TT - Utterly boring but very compentent, 2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying.

#999 ONLINE   panhard65

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Posted 14 November 2018 - 07:16 PM

Yeap those mains need replacing and the crank wants looking at properly to make sure it isn't too scored. If you leave it then it will only get worse and explains the low oil pressure.


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'65 Ford Thunderbird just arrived from the US

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'99 Peugeot 806 (with slightly less dents) daily

'02 Toyota Yaris (faded paint and some dents)

 


#1000 ONLINE   SiC

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Posted 14 November 2018 - 07:18 PM

Bottom end rebuild then? Sad face :(

(This is the 1000th post of this thread too)
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Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
Moderns: 2008 Audi TT - Utterly boring but very compentent, 2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying.

#1001 ONLINE   SiC

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Posted 14 November 2018 - 07:33 PM

This is the point where any sensible person would be pulling off the bits of value and then calling in the scrapman for the rest...

Anyone used Guess-Works before? £600 for a stripdown, clean up and then parts on top.
http://guess-works.com/Shop/Engine

Any other recommendations on places that could properly inspect and rebuild this lump? Ideally within 80 miles or so of Bristol. I'm thinking this could be a good job to outsource, so I can focus on the mountain of other jobs that need doing still.
  • Coprolalia likes this
Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
Moderns: 2008 Audi TT - Utterly boring but very compentent, 2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying.

#1002 ONLINE   vulgalour

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Posted 14 November 2018 - 07:35 PM

It is weird that the oil light never came on except when it should while it was with me but you and Cats both had it coming on when it shouldn't.  Maybe the thicker stuff hadn't circulated enough while it was with me and that was keeping the oil pressure up and the light off.  At least you found it now.

 

Sensible person?  Sensible people don't get involved with this car.



#1003 ONLINE   panhard65

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Posted 14 November 2018 - 07:46 PM

It only really needs the crank doing which isn't that hard to do. I am not sure who to recommend as I have used a couple of places down in the south west and 2 I wouldn't use again are Hamlins in Bridgwater as they charged me £180 for 3 helicoils. I also tried Barum engineering in Barnstable and they rebored an MG Midget engine but only bored 3 cylinders all the way to the bottom of the bores. Bloody annoying when you rebuild it and the engine keeps locking up. The last one I had done was by Westside motors Bridgewater, they did the crank in the Seat. Reasonably priced and all seems good so far. 


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'65 Ford Thunderbird just arrived from the US

'69 Seat 1500 hearse

'99 Peugeot 806 (with slightly less dents) daily

'02 Toyota Yaris (faded paint and some dents)

 


#1004 OFFLINE   The Reverend Bluejeans

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Posted 14 November 2018 - 07:49 PM

Crank out, polish with 600 grit and WD40, new mains, reassemble. Leave the rods and pistons in, head on etc. Not a disaster.

 

Or just replace the shells and leave the crank in place - it's not horrific. Where do you stop?

 

The chain is fine.


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MASTER RACE MOTORS.

 

1989 F  730i. Prestigious.

1994 M 318Ti - Track whore

2008 Golf GTI 3dr 6spd #VAGWANKER

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Money talks, but it don't sing and dance and it don't walk. And long as I can have you here with me, I'd much rather be, the Reverend Bluejeans, babe

 

 


#1005 ONLINE   SiC

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Posted 14 November 2018 - 07:54 PM

How do you know when you need oversized shells?

Replacing the bearing shells is something I should be able to achieve in my skill set if it's just swapping parts.
Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
Moderns: 2008 Audi TT - Utterly boring but very compentent, 2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying.

#1006 OFFLINE   The Reverend Bluejeans

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Posted 14 November 2018 - 07:57 PM

What's stamped on the backs of the old ones? Replace like for like. 


MASTER RACE MOTORS.

 

1989 F  730i. Prestigious.

1994 M 318Ti - Track whore

2008 Golf GTI 3dr 6spd #VAGWANKER

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Money talks, but it don't sing and dance and it don't walk. And long as I can have you here with me, I'd much rather be, the Reverend Bluejeans, babe

 

 


#1007 OFFLINE   dozeydustman

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Posted 14 November 2018 - 07:59 PM

How do you know when you need oversized shells?

Replacing the bearing shells is something I should be able to achieve in my skill set if it's just swapping parts.

 

 

The shells should have a stamp mark on the back showing standard/undersized journals.

 

EDIT - RBJ beat me to it


Dream shite.

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#1008 OFFLINE   DodgeRover

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Posted 14 November 2018 - 09:48 PM

Run your finger nail over the crank journel where the shell fits, if it snags on anything it will need a polish or grind. It won't be expensive.

#1009 OFFLINE   jonathan_dyane

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Posted 14 November 2018 - 10:11 PM

Just wang new shells on, as above the same size as the existing ones.

2004 Saab 9-5 Aero Estate

1979 Citroen GS Club Estate (rusty)
1951 David Brown 30D (derelict)

1991 Kawasaki GT-550
1986 MZ ETZ 250

2004 Tomos Noped


#1010 ONLINE   SiC

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Posted 15 November 2018 - 12:05 AM

Crank pulley end.
5653e28b04607178af7710f8a11d859d.jpg
69271674c3b2d43351812566e98877ee.jpg

Clutch end. Yeah I know.
ecf4a5ef6f98f7c9e63c453ac79dd219.jpg
2f986f0066ff493b8d3955cb12056313.jpg

Clutch end a felt one tiny bit hit on my nail. Other ones it was smooth.


Bearing markings. This was off the crank pulley end.
aeb8b41d372bad00f278dce92ed24504.jpg
165fff912e43829d8fbd99a166977d00.jpg

Middle bearing markings are the same.
c2e6afa73d88bfdb42e7a2f4403d3392.jpg
6d3d4b0187d283522a6f4bdb8b2f1a55.jpg

Forgot to check clutch end markings.
  • johngarty likes this
Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
Moderns: 2008 Audi TT - Utterly boring but very compentent, 2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying.

#1011 ONLINE   SiC

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Posted 15 November 2018 - 12:20 AM

I'm guessing I need these?
https://www.moss-eur...ard-8g2332.html

Standard size. Listed for 998cc Mini, 1098cc Minor and 948cc-1098cc Sprite/Midget.
  • sharley17194 likes this
Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
Moderns: 2008 Audi TT - Utterly boring but very compentent, 2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying.

#1012 ONLINE   panhard65

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Posted 15 November 2018 - 08:07 AM

Pull the crank out and get it checked, If it was me I would get that reground. It's about £100 then new big end and main bearings. Also well worth checking the oil pick up as that has run been starved of oil at some point. 


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'65 Ford Thunderbird just arrived from the US

'69 Seat 1500 hearse

'99 Peugeot 806 (with slightly less dents) daily

'02 Toyota Yaris (faded paint and some dents)

 


#1013 OFFLINE   sharley17194

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Posted 15 November 2018 - 08:19 AM

If it was me, id take crank out run with some 800 grit clean and refit new mains big ends and thrusts. they are std from the numbers you've supplied. And pop it back in, especially if time is against you. As for guessworks, i cant recommend his services more. Even for a quick chat hes a legend!


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#1014 OFFLINE   stuboy

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Posted 15 November 2018 - 09:04 AM

i saw a mustard coloured ado in margate on saturday, anyones>?


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#1015 OFFLINE   Mally

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Posted 15 November 2018 - 03:44 PM

Depends if you are keeping it for 00 miles or 20,000 miles.

Take crank out, clean it up, new std mains and thrust bearings. as the Rev and Sharley say.

Correct way is a complete regrind, but........

It will likely be for sale within 6 months of completion, and the new owner will likely do 2,000 miles a year.



#1016 ONLINE   SiC

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Posted 15 November 2018 - 04:09 PM

It will likely be for sale within 6 months of completion, and the new owner will likely do 2,000 miles a year.


Harsh!
Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
Moderns: 2008 Audi TT - Utterly boring but very compentent, 2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying.

#1017 OFFLINE   The Reverend Bluejeans

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Posted 15 November 2018 - 05:34 PM

Make sure you also fit the shells correctly - you would not be the first to fit them with the oil hole shell in the cap and the blank one win the block.


  • DodgeRover, Rusty_Rocket, SiC and 1 other like this

MASTER RACE MOTORS.

 

1989 F  730i. Prestigious.

1994 M 318Ti - Track whore

2008 Golf GTI 3dr 6spd #VAGWANKER

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Money talks, but it don't sing and dance and it don't walk. And long as I can have you here with me, I'd much rather be, the Reverend Bluejeans, babe

 

 


#1018 ONLINE   SiC

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Posted 15 November 2018 - 05:45 PM

If I lob some new shells on to start with, what's the worse can happen? Just bugger up those new shells over time? Or would it cause significant damage to the engine?
Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
Moderns: 2008 Audi TT - Utterly boring but very compentent, 2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying.

#1019 OFFLINE   The Reverend Bluejeans

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Posted 15 November 2018 - 05:50 PM

You'll have the crank out in an hour. It has to come out to fit the upper shells.


MASTER RACE MOTORS.

 

1989 F  730i. Prestigious.

1994 M 318Ti - Track whore

2008 Golf GTI 3dr 6spd #VAGWANKER

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Money talks, but it don't sing and dance and it don't walk. And long as I can have you here with me, I'd much rather be, the Reverend Bluejeans, babe

 

 


#1020 OFFLINE   DodgeRover

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Posted 15 November 2018 - 05:54 PM

If the crank is smooth having it polished at an engineering place to remove minor marks costs relatively little, I wouldn't attempt it myself unless I was putting it through the auctions etc.
The area where the shells fit needs to be eat your dinner off it clean, you can scrape the block area they seat into without worry - it's not unknown for a bit of white metal to stick (or weld itself) on there.
Crank needs to rotate once the new shells are fitted, use plenty of lubrication. Do them one at a time and ensure the crank doesn't lock up.
Fitting new shells without touching the crank isn't going to cause anything else to bugger up unless you fit the shells wrong.
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