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The Austin 2dr 1100 story - Part IV - Welding & Engine/Clutch work

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1029 replies to this topic

#61 OFFLINE   SiC

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Posted 22 June 2018 - 06:37 PM

properly lovely these cars...... mine was absolutely shagged though, and I thought I'd 'checked'!
Best of luck wi your first resto...... if you're estimating end of year - 2020 should be doable

I didn't check this one but got told it was shagged before I bought it! :D

Spoken to a couple of mates who are going to give me a hand to help pull the engine. They've not pulled a lump before, so will be a learning exercise for them too. I may drop and remove the fuel tank too, to give one more less thing to catch fire.
Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
Moderns: 2008 Audi TT - Utterly boring but very compentent, 2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying.

#62 OFFLINE   junkyarddog

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Posted 22 June 2018 - 06:44 PM

Do you actually need to remove the engine?

#63 OFFLINE   meowdchina

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Posted 22 June 2018 - 06:48 PM

Ahem......

Austin America VTEC. Just saying

California car too.............so no rot.


Not quite the end of the Earth but
you can just about see it from here.

#64 OFFLINE   SiC

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Posted 22 June 2018 - 06:50 PM

Do you actually need to remove the engine?

Yes of course! I want to learn how to. :mrgreen:

In all seriousness, the clutch is jammed/siezed and it'd give me a chance to properly clean out and check the engine bay. I'll probably change the clutch while I'm at it. Plus I need to replace the Schrader valve on the suspension, which will possibly possible to not need removing the whole pipe if the engine is out the way. Finally, the lack of weight in the front should make it easier to move around on my drive.

When it's out, I'll probably give it a clean down and paint too. Plus maybe do a few other bits to it, like replace commonly gaskets that leak. Going through the cars history on catsinthewelder thread, it appears it has had oil pressure issues when hot. So I might replace out the oil pump + oil pressure relief valve while its an easy job to do.
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Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
Moderns: 2008 Audi TT - Utterly boring but very compentent, 2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying.

#65 OFFLINE   anonymous user

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Posted 22 June 2018 - 06:50 PM

Do you actually need to remove the engine?


Probably not, but it will make it lighter, although on some newer cars you probably need to remove the engine to change the starter motor

#66 OFFLINE   junkyarddog

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Posted 22 June 2018 - 06:54 PM

That's fair enough.

It's just that if you working with limited space removed parts will take up an awful lot of it.

Personally I'd be looking at doing all the welding first.
If anything's going to beat you it will be that.

Best of luck.
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#67 OFFLINE   vulgalour

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Posted 22 June 2018 - 07:09 PM

Removing the engine, for the amount of work you're planning, is probably best done by dropping the whole subframe out with wheels and suspension attached.  You'll need to disconnect brake lines, cables, suspension interconnecting pipes, etc. but once done you should then be able to just roll the subframe out from under the car.  You can then work on the subframe lump on rainy days/evenings and work on the engine bay on the nicer days.  It'll weigh about as much as an empty crisp packet with the subframes off too, so you might want to put a big rock on it to stop it blowing away.


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#68 OFFLINE   SiC

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Posted 22 June 2018 - 07:23 PM

I was thinking about dropping the whole subframe, but the guys on mk1-forum reckoned pulling the engine will be easier and quicker. Plus it leaves wheels on still for me. Once the engine is out, I can always drop the subframe separately.
  • alf892 and DeeJay like this
Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
Moderns: 2008 Audi TT - Utterly boring but very compentent, 2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying.

#69 OFFLINE   BeEP

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Posted 22 June 2018 - 10:04 PM

Aqua green (or whatever this early 70s turquoise colour is called) is THE best colour for these, and Minis too. FACT.

attachicon.gifEA99A329-7B3A-47E8-B2FA-70357C5E878E.jpeg

 

Yep, that's Aqua.  The colour of the estate I owned unitl it was demolished by a Ford Ranger pick-up on the A12, whose driver may* have been 3 times over the drink drive limit.  Also my favourite colour for 70s 1100s, just beating limeflower.


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#70 OFFLINE   Skizzer

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Posted 22 June 2018 - 10:08 PM

Like for your excellent taste, obviously not for the very sad demise of your estate at the hands of some arsehole wannabe redneck.

75N Vauxhall 2300S | 76P Lotus Elite | 76P Renault 16TL | 79T Rover 3500 | 82X Lancia Gamma Coupe | 82Y Jaguar XJ-S HE | 83A Jaguar Sovereign 4.2 | 84B Talbot-Matra Rancho | 85C Ford Granada 2.8 estate | 91H Audi 80 2.0E | 91J VW Golf Rivage cabrio | 06 Alfa Brera 2.2JTS | 14 BMW 428i | 18 Skoda Kodiaq


#71 OFFLINE   BeEP

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Posted 22 June 2018 - 10:18 PM

It was his third such conviction; he was still banned from the first, but he hadn't thought to tell his employer this, whose vehicle he also wrote off.  Whilst I'm not going to suggest that crash protection hasn't improved since ado16s were made, a relatively high speed crash in one fitted with static seat belts didn't result in the instant death many people seem to think is certain to happen if tthey don't keep buying new cars with whatever the latest safety innovation is.  In fact I walked away without a scratch.



#72 OFFLINE   SiC

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Posted 22 June 2018 - 11:17 PM

A few more pictures, this time in the day light. I've emptied the inside but it's gone dark now. I'll try and get a few more pictures another day of the bits that need welding.
fd973346fee6e0ab028f2a8c59f332ed.jpg
a51a973e919cd7802aca99665eeac276.jpg
2ded1f2a131c659bd2200fd05d2ddb7b.jpg
e4b55f91387956315e9fb2e07f360895.jpg

This is the wheel offset that Vulgalour was saying about and buggers his back up. I'm sat straight ahead in this picture.
a6747677c58c714fa799c76676bfe720.jpg

Very weird. It's like they put the steering column in the wrong place at the factory! I can only guess that they must have ran out of room to move it further over.
  • danthecapriman, Conrad D. Conelrad, Sigmund Fraud and 4 others like this
Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
Moderns: 2008 Audi TT - Utterly boring but very compentent, 2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying.

#73 OFFLINE   SiC

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Posted 22 June 2018 - 11:20 PM

After a good fiddle and poke around tonight, I've made a to-do list. It's not in any particular order.

Ready? Let's go!

Welding - Drivers footwell
Welding - Drivers footwell subframe mounting
Welding - offside cross member bottom panel
Welding - offside rear floor
Welding - drivers inner sill
Welding - drivers sill membrane
Welding - drivers outer sill
Welding - drivers closing panel
Welding - offside rear subframe mount
Welding - drivers a-pillar
Welding - passenger inner sill
Welding - passenger sill membrane
Welding - offside rear arch
Welding - offside rear arch liner join to arch
Welding - both side rear of arch to boot side floor
Welding - behind master cylinders
Welding - heater box mounting
Welding - seat stay reinforcement
Mech - remove engine
Mech - unsieze & replace clutch
Mech - replace oil pump
Mech - replace/inspect oil pressure relief valve
Mech - clean and paint engine
Mech - rebuild carb
Mech - replace front brake flexis
Mech - replace rear brake flexi
Mech - replace brake master
Mech - replace/clean up clutch master
Mech - inspect & clean up front brakes
Mech - inspect & clean up rear brakes
Mech - inspect and possibly replace front to rear brake pipe
Mech - inspect front suspension bushes
Mech - inspect rear suspension bushes
Mech - service! Oil, filter, sparking plugs, coolant, points, distributor cap+rotor
Mech - inspect distributor (e.g. vac advance)
Mech - replace hydrolastic Schrader valve
Mech - fix windscreen washer
Mech - flush radiator
Mech - refit heater box
Mech - fix/replace seat belts (passenger side missing)
Elec - inspect/rebuild wiring loom
Elec - fix indicators
Elec - fix lights
Elec - replace front lights
Elec - battery clamp
Elec - remove steering lock barrel
Elec - replace condenser with High Quality
Elec - fuse alternator, main and starter circuits (e.g. Mégane II battery fuses)
Elec - replace battery connection wires
Elec - check all systems
Body - replace boot seal
Body - inspect rubber seals
Body - tighten any loose fittings (e.g. door handles)
Body - refurbish seats
Body - replace carpet
Body - replace rear view mirror
Body - unify locks
Body - replace gear gaiter rubber
Body - paint!

Phew!

This is going to keep me busy for a while.
  • danthecapriman, Angrydicky, Dick Longbridge and 11 others like this
Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
Moderns: 2008 Audi TT - Utterly boring but very compentent, 2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying.

#74 OFFLINE   Kiltox

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Posted 22 June 2018 - 11:46 PM

SiC, mate, you’re a fucking legend for taking this on.

If you need any tools or help please let me know

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#75 OFFLINE   SiC

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Posted 23 June 2018 - 12:21 AM



SiC, mate, you’re fucking stupid for taking this on.

FTFY.

If you need any tools or help please let me know


I would be massively thankful if yourself or someone in the South / South-West of England or Wales could teach me the basics of how to weld and weld safely! I still haven't had a chance to start practicing. Mike has advised me that where I was going to start practicing, I need to put up a welding curtain so I don't get myself into trouble. My biggest concern is setting fire to something like the neighbours fence, car or even the garage.

I'm also struggling to find a source of sheet metal. The offcuts I got from eBay don't look like ordinary mild steel and more galvanized stuff. Not something I really want to be practicing on.
Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
Moderns: 2008 Audi TT - Utterly boring but very compentent, 2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying.

#76 OFFLINE   SiC

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Posted 23 June 2018 - 12:23 AM

That list above looks big, but it's expanded out pretty deeply. A fair few can be left till later or may not even need doing once I get to those bits.

A bit daunting at first, but once you go through there isn't anything too bad. Biggest risk to the project is that there's a lot of welding. No doubt will be other bits I haven't come across yet either too.

I just wished I had a bigger space I could do this work in.
Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
Moderns: 2008 Audi TT - Utterly boring but very compentent, 2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying.

#77 OFFLINE   vulgalour

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Posted 23 June 2018 - 02:19 AM

Washer pump - check the pipes on the back of the pump haven't fallen off and that there's fluid in the bottle.  Then give the plunger a few pushes, it might be that the pipework needs repriming.  It does work, and quite well, or it did when I tested it out.

 

Seatbelts - fronts are from a P6 and the 1100's originals are fitted in the rear, if I remember what Cats told me when picking up the car.  Not sure why the passenger belt is missing, I know the latch side is there because I tucked it into the seat and I didn't have cause to remove the other half, I assume it was in the car.  Perhaps it wasn't?

 

Indicators - I can't remember if I replaced the driver's front, or if that was the dicky holder.  A new bulb/wiggle of the old bulb should sort it.  The stalk is a bit of a duff connection, after a bit of use they do wake up and work reliably but I think the connections are corroded slightly from lack of use.

 

You may need a battery clamp too, I can't remember if there was one or not.  You'll definitely need a rocker cover gasket, in part because it's weeping and because being an A Series, TADTS.



#78 OFFLINE   xkjagnz

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Posted 23 June 2018 - 03:23 AM

How about this one then?
New Zealand unfortunately
https://touch.tradem...view/1672485391
809877618.jpg
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#79 OFFLINE   xkjagnz

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Posted 23 June 2018 - 07:28 AM

inside

kes1.jpg kes2.jpg



#80 OFFLINE   SiC

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Posted 23 June 2018 - 07:40 AM

Very posh! Rileys are really rather rare here too. That price isn't too ridiculous either.
Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
Moderns: 2008 Audi TT - Utterly boring but very compentent, 2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying.

#81 OFFLINE   Exiled_Tat_Gatherer

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Posted 23 June 2018 - 09:45 AM

I used the sheet steel I was slicing bits from as a type of shield near me welding...... if you get back to clean metal and set up and prep it properly you'll minimise the spatter..... you'll nail it I'm sure. Plenty of online vids to help too.

I'd advise trying to minimise wind too if doing it all outside...... makes it a sodding nightmare, especially if learning, you'll never know if it's you or the conditions.


As an aside...... as your posts seem to be thinking of extraordinary ways of improving things. How about BMW bike engine head on the Austin lump while it's out? Just sayin like

#82 OFFLINE   Dick Longbridge

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Posted 23 June 2018 - 10:29 AM

I’m still not sure whether I should offer my congratulations or condolences.
You’re a brave man.
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03 Toyota MR2
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#83 ONLINE   Eddie Honda

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Posted 23 June 2018 - 06:16 PM

Indeed. Whilst I'm an absolute sucker for punishment, I'd rather climb Everest in just my undercrackers than attempt this!
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#84 OFFLINE   SiC

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Posted 23 June 2018 - 06:20 PM

Getting such positive vibes here! :D

There's a lot to do, but I don't think any of it is particularly difficult or complicated. Just a case of cracking on and churning through it.
  • alf892 and Skizzer like this
Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
Moderns: 2008 Audi TT - Utterly boring but very compentent, 2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying.

#85 OFFLINE   captain_70s

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Posted 23 June 2018 - 06:36 PM

It is indeed a case of just cracking on and doing it, it's the finding time/motivation to crack on and do it that'd be the hard part.

 

There is also quite the difference between doing a job to a standard of it being functional but neither pretty or perfect (the way I do things) and being done "properly" as you tend to have done with your MGB. One is quite a lot harder and more time consuming than the other!


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26707358839_1b301cd015_o.jpg


#86 OFFLINE   vulgalour

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Posted 23 June 2018 - 06:45 PM

Perfection is over rated.


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#87 OFFLINE   captain_70s

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Posted 23 June 2018 - 06:48 PM

Perfection is over rated.

When you run old BL chod it's also un-achievable! :P

 

(Old retired duffers with infinite tinkering time aside).


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26707358839_1b301cd015_o.jpg


#88 OFFLINE   DodgeRover

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Posted 23 June 2018 - 08:55 PM

I'm also struggling to find a source of sheet metal. The offcuts I got from eBay don't look like ordinary mild steel and more galvanized stuff. Not something I really want to be practicing on.


PC tower case side covers, gas central heating boiler casings/ covers, washing machine sides. Grab a bent bonnet from your local body shop.
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#89 OFFLINE   Nyphur

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Posted 23 June 2018 - 10:19 PM

d55f9e44de9a8e2d5256d7a4e351f0c9.jpg

 

 

The hands on the head pose is evocative.... 

 

ETA: Some top flange chod in this video too, never noticed before.


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#90 OFFLINE   captain_70s

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Posted 23 June 2018 - 11:21 PM

I'm also struggling to find a source of sheet metal. The offcuts I got from eBay don't look like ordinary mild steel and more galvanized stuff. Not something I really want to be practicing on.

Generally galv tends to be mentioned as such as is more expensive, although you could give these guy's a shot:

 

http://southweststeelsupplies.co.uk/


26707358839_1b301cd015_o.jpg






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