Project The Austin 2dr 1100 story - Part IV - Now in sharleys hands

[SiC]

That explains where your water is coming in!

Not sure if I should just clean up the plate and run a few more beads around, or cut it off and butt weld a new piece in. If I cut it off and replace though, I'm not sure I want to see what it looks like on the other side...

[sharley17194]

Thats where 3 panels meet, there should be a drain channel thru the middle but it gets blocked and rusts all 3 sides out. Id make sure the water has somewhere to go....ie out the other side and run a better weld round it.

 

Not sure if I should just clean up the plate and run a few more beads around, or cut it off and butt weld a new piece in. If I cut it off and replace though, I'm not sure I want to see what it looks like on the other side...

[Angrydicky]

People like that Bob irritate the hell out of me. Its not his car so he has no right to decide its fate. Fortunately there are enthusiasts out there willing to tackle old cars when not financially viable, or it would be a very boring world filled with valuable classics and all the bread and butter stuff gone.

Not only are you saving a now rare old car, but you're learning a very useful skill along the way. Keep it up, you're doing really well!

[SiC]

Haha yes. Doesn't particularly bother me much and I find it quite funny. I guess he is right, it is pretty fucked - even if it's not the most helpful of comments. However its slowly becoming un-fucked.

 

In other news, how many Smith's Speedos does a man need?

 

5 it seems.

 

This is another MG Midget Speedo which had the right TPM. It is from ruffgeezer of this parish and more working that the last one I got off eBay. Intention is, instead of using the modified 1300 gauge, I'll use this instead. Should drop straight in and the bonus is that it has a trip counter too. Will need a clean up on the case, glass and chrome ring but I might swap it from the other one as they're in good nick. Different status lights to the previous 1300 gauge, but I'm thinking of putting a metal plate on the missing ashtray and a bunch of status lights in that.

 

I ought to check that this Super Delux dash actually fits though. Looking at it, the air vents on the top may not fit properly through.

[SiC]

Stripped down the Speedo tonight as something easy and fun to do.

 

Interestingly the mechanism is different from the other MG Midget Speedo I have. This one has more plastic and less metal. Later one that was cheaped out on?

 

On the cam arm that pushes the mileometer on was missing it's retaining metal spring. The spring looked a bit off, almost as if it's not original.

 

Nicked it off the other one. It's needed to provide a locking mechanism to stop it falling off. Only luck has stopped it falling apart after all these years.

 

The needle didn't spin smoothly along all of its travel. Turns out a screw holding it together was missing. Again I nicked it off the other one.

 

Has someone been in here before maybe? Or just Smith workers back in the 70s having a massive CBA to bother making these properly??

 

Anyway I put it all back together while trying to roughly preload the needle spring. There is a black mark that seems to be put on by the factory, but I've forgotten where they are supposed to go Originally it wasn't preloaded at all, so the needle flopped about a bit and didn't sit on zero. Also move the clock forward by around 2500 miles to match what the car currently has.

 

One lightly restored and cleaned Speedo, ready for installation.

 

Might give it a run on the electric drill to try and get a roughly accurate calibration. It could also do with a good polish on that chrome ring too.

[Remspoor]

Maybe you should open the speedo again!

From experience of an MGB the lighting on these are woeful. The blue tint to the reflective paint does not help.

The trick was to paint the inside fully in white. These days one can purchase LED lamps, but they my still need a decent reflector to bounce around the light.

One, if not my fav thread of this foro.

[Rocket88]

Not a lot has happened recently. Yesterday I pushed it forwards and put the door back on. Probably will have to come off again so I can fix up this bit of the sill.

 

I also sprayed water on the heater box air intake to check that it didn't leak into the cabin. Which wasn't as successful as I was hoping...

(Bits of black paint is from picking big chunks of enamel paint off the door)

 

I have also agreed to buy a bunch of panels that hopefully will make welding up the car a lot easier. A wing in good condition was available for a very reasonable price (nearside though, could really do with offside). Unfortunately my budget couldn't stretch to that this month. However I will hopefully have two rear arch repair panels and a heelboard for the rear subframe mount area coming. This should make repairing these areas way quicker and easier.

 

In other news, I've just had this lovely comment pop up on one of my YouTube videos about the crusty rear arch...

 

Oh well Bob.

 

I'd be telling Mr Andryswekski to go and do one...................

[beko1987]

Ha, your probably one of the few people that have clocked a car forwards!

 

Maybe you should do it every year for the mot 'yea m8, I do thousands of miles a year in it! 80k last year, look!'

[anonymous user]

"Has someone been in here before, maybe?"

#Quentin Wilson, not again.

[SiC]

Maybe you should open the speedo again!

From experience of an MGB the lighting on these are woeful. The blue tint to the reflective paint does not help.

The trick was to paint the inside fully in white. These days one can purchase LED lamps, but they my still need a decent reflector to bounce around the light.

One, if not my fav thread of this foro.

Isn't dim and barely visible gauges part of the charm?

None of this bloody post 1986 super glarey rubbish here!

 

Funnily enough I was thinking that I have some 12v LED strips I bought for lighting my desk area up. They're a bit dim for that but might be perfect for the gauge. Was also thinking I need a trip to Hobbycraft and get some Humbrol paint to freshen up the insides of them. I might also have some shiney silver tape in the garage somewhere too.

[SiC]

Is anyone happening to be traveling from Durham to somewhere more South anytime soon? I've bought some replacement 1100 panels and while I can get them couriered, I worry that they'll get damaged.

[purplebargeken]

Bob can go and fuck off. It's your fucked, not his. Besides, it's fucked no longer. Fuck him. 

[SiC]

Test fitted the Mr_Bo11ox dash tonight.

I know that dash isn't to everyone's taste (Beep doesn't like it!) but to me it makes a big difference. Actually made it feel more like a car just putting it roughly into place.

 

Unfortunately it doesn't quite fit. The top section seems to impact part of the metal windscreen surround.

 

These mounting tabs (in the middle of the photo) are miles off with this metal section in the way.

 

Anyone know how I can fit the special delux dash into my delux? This is the section that seems to be in the way. I could cut it off but that seems quite drastic. Also I'd like to be able to find the original dash back in if I ever change my mind.

 

While I had some screwdrivers in my hand, I found more work to do.

 

One light bare handed tug later and...

 

FFS.

 

There is the rack gaiter behind this bit too. Already burnt from where this panel was "welded"/stuck with metal and will need to be replaced. Probably really need to drop the rack + front subframe and get that bit done properly and also replace that gaiter.

 

Thus I've just made myself a whole crap load of work.

 

*Le sigh*

[beko1987]

Gaffer tape it back on and pretend it never happened!

[timolloyd]

Access hatch init

[SiC]

Gaffer tape it back on and pretend it never happened!

Actually think it might be easier to weld a new piece on than trying to get modern gaffer tape to stick to old paint! As the gaiter is going to need replacing anyway, I might just shove the fire blanket around it and weld a plate on. Just hoping not too much heat gets through and sets fire to the rack/gaiter/grease!

 

Access hatch init

Haha yes I was thinking that as I was pulling it off. Maybe it just needs some hinges attaching to it?

[DodgeRover]

Plumbers (i can't believe its not asbestos) heat proof mat over the gaitor whilst you weld, you might want to have a poke at the patch to the left of it too

[SiC]

Plumbers (i can't believe its not asbestos) heat proof mat over the gaitor whilst you weld, you might want to have a poke at the patch to the left of it too

I keep meaning to get one of those mats. The fire blankets do work well though. Except for the sodding fibreglass bits going through the gloves and getting into the fingers.

 

I attacked that plate to the left and it is solid. Which is annoying as it's where water leaks through on the front of it. So I'll be taking it off at some point anyway. If it prized off it would have made that job a lot easier.

 

I dare not think what horrors maybe behind that plate though.

[purplebargeken]

Was also going to say it's an access plate lol.

 

I have nothing useful to say about the dash, sorry mate.

[Remspoor]

Test fitted the Mr_Bo11ox dash tonight.

I know that dash isn't to everyone's taste (Beep doesn't like it!) but to me it makes a big difference. Actually made it feel more like a car just putting it roughly into place.

 

Unfortunately it doesn't quite fit. The top section seems to impact part of the metal windscreen surround.

 

These mounting tabs (in the middle of the photo) are miles off with this metal section in the way.

 

Anyone know how I can fit the special delux dash into my delux? This is the section that seems to be in the way. I could cut it off but that seems quite drastic. Also I'd like to be able to find the original dash back in if I ever change my mind.

 

While I had some screwdrivers in my hand, I found more work to do.

 

One light bare handed tug later and...

 

FFS.

 

There is the rack gaiter behind this bit too. Already burnt from where this panel was "welded"/stuck with metal and will need to be replaced. Probably really need to drop the rack + front subframe and get that bit done properly and also replace that gaiter.

 

Thus I've just made myself a whole crap load of work.

 

*Le sigh*

That is not welded it is stick glued together.

Is the dash metal? If so the same as in my Westminster. a work of art to get it looking like wood.

[SiC]

That is not welded it is stick glued together.

Is the dash metal? If so the same as in my Westminster. a work of art to get it looking like wood.

Yes its metal back with like a foam injected core for the covering material. I believe the wood effect is Formica (what BeEP said).

 

I really like it! Ok its not as nice or cool as a strip speedo, but I much prefer it to the povo/mini style single big clock in the middle with a massive parcel shelf. That reminds me too much of a golf cart rather than this feels more car like.

[Mally]

I keep meaning to get one of those mats. The fire blankets do work well though. Except for the sodding fibreglass bits going through the gloves and getting into the fingers.

 

I attacked that plate to the left and it is solid. Which is annoying as it's where water leaks through on the front of it. So I'll be taking it off at some point anyway. If it prized off it would have made that job a lot easier.

 

I dare not think what horrors maybe behind that plate though.

 

I'd be leaving the plate on, clean the joint and smear some quick steel over the leak.

[SiC]

I'd be leaving the plate on, clean the joint and smear some quick steel over the leak.

Do you really expect me and my curiosity to be able to do that?

[Mally]

Stop thinking it's an MG.

[Angrydicky]

For protecting things like that gaiter, I soak an old towel under the tap, ring it out and wrap it around.

Have also used stuffed inside fuel filler necks when welding close by on a few cars, including the legendary Sierra Base! But I've always had a cavalier attitude to health and safety

[PhilA]

Fablon looks fab!

 

Also, by BMC standards, very de luxe. It's worth persevering with. I experimented with that very series of gauges in my old man's Sprite. Very bright warm white (2400K) multi chip LED's work very well to bring the gauge easier to see. Adding a blue LED to the main beam telltale likewise transforms it.

You've seen the difference it makes to my dashboard, despite the way they're lit being quite different.

 

Phil

[Remspoor]

When I suggested LEDs I was thinking more about replacing stock.

Example: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5x-MG-MGB-MGC-MIDGET-TR-TR6-CLASSIC-CAR-LED-INSTRUMENT-BULBS-UPGRADE-E10-SMD-MES/181682133823

The LED lightingstrips may take too much work to install. When I did repaint the MGBs dials the white improved the visibility for little money. At the time LEDs were very expensive and not reliable. This was over 20 years ago!

 

The Westie's dash is full on metal. I have round dials as standard thankfully as strip speedos are very expensive and harder to find.

 

Note to self there are too many strips in this posting.

[vulgalour]

Get you with your fancy dashboard and your actual floors.  Only an 1100 could leak water through metal.

[SiC]

With SiC Towers on the move, progress has ground to a complete halt on this. This weekend I need to get the engine back mostly together and into one piece. I won't put it back in the car as it's fiddly and not enough time. Instead I'll take it off the engine stand and strap it onto a Sack Truck. It can then go into the storage unit with my tools for now.

 

In other news this came today after winning it a couple of weeks ago on eBay.

 

It was like Christmas. Literally considering how much packaging was used.

 

First piece. This is a repair panel for subframe mounts. Really hard to get hold of nowadays. Tempted to send it off to have a copy made of it. Also hoping I won't need to use it and there is enough of the old mounting area left to repair.

 

Next up was yet more unwrapping!

 

Which revealed these rear arch repair panels! I only actually won one on eBay, but the guy selling them kindly chucked in the other side for free. These will make a massive difference to fixing those rear arches.

 

Finally this panel. It's an offside (drivers) front wing repair panel. I don't think I actually need it (nearside is the worst) but it was only £20.

 

All in I think I spent around £110ish with postage. Bargain considering how much time this should hopefully save me.

[Dick Longbridge]

Those panels seem an utter bargain. Good find.