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Stanky's Celica - provisionally sold

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#91 ONLINE   tobyd

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Posted 18 August 2018 - 02:18 PM

You could also test the otherside and compare resistances, continuity and whatnot as a benchmark.


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#92 OFFLINE   PhilA

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Posted 18 August 2018 - 02:46 PM

Does this system only put the ABS light out once you've moved, or is it a case that if all sensors show continuity then it puts the light out until you move and one doesn't get a reading and light up the light for a fault?

If so then do as above

Phil
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#93 OFFLINE   Stanky

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Posted 18 August 2018 - 02:52 PM

PhilA - no, ABS light is on from the moment the key is inserted and turned to position 1. I think the latter is the case and there is a lack of continuity to the LHS front sensor.

 

I don't really understand electricity but I have taken some readings with my multimeter

 

ECU > Sensor connector wiring

20k Ohms - 1

200k Ohms - 41.3

Continuity - 1

 

Sensor wiring only

20k Ohms - 1

200k Ohms - 1

Continuity - 1

 

Touching probes to brake disc

20k Ohms - 0.01

200k Ohms - 00.1

Continuity - 001

 

Does this mean anything to anyone? To me it looks like there is 100% resistance (i.e. a break) in the wiring of the sensor section? I'm slightly puzzled about the lack of continuity in the wiring from the connector to the ECU. Is this an issue?

 

All of the above was done with the battery in the car, but the key out of the ignition.


2004 Daewoo Lacetti

2004 SAAB 9-3

 

2003 Toyota Yaris (Currently a member of the Jim Bell automotive group)

1998 Toyota Celica ST (moved to Scotland with the Hawkeyethenoo's)

1996 Nissan Almera GX (departed)

198? Jago Geep (Now resideing chez red5)

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Yeah yeah, another blog. Why I use silly hardware to mine cryptocurrency: https://piminer.home.blog/


#94 ONLINE   Tamworthbay

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Posted 18 August 2018 - 03:23 PM

If the continuity on the wiring is as it looks I.e, a reading of one from one end of a piece of wire to the other then yes it’s the problem, if the reading is from one wire to the other then possibly not.

#95 OFFLINE   andy18s

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Posted 18 August 2018 - 03:26 PM

Test and compare with the opposite side,although that does risk disturbing something that works at the mo.....
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#96 OFFLINE   Stanky

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Posted 18 August 2018 - 03:35 PM

Comparing it to the readings for the drivers side is the plan for Monday morning, we've got people coming down tomorrow but I might be able to whip a wheel off late tomorrow afternoon, otherwise its a job for Monday.

 

Plan B is to swap the sensors side to side and (without moving the car) see if the error code moves to the other side, as I'd expect it to. This will be a job for another weekend though.


2004 Daewoo Lacetti

2004 SAAB 9-3

 

2003 Toyota Yaris (Currently a member of the Jim Bell automotive group)

1998 Toyota Celica ST (moved to Scotland with the Hawkeyethenoo's)

1996 Nissan Almera GX (departed)

198? Jago Geep (Now resideing chez red5)

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Yeah yeah, another blog. Why I use silly hardware to mine cryptocurrency: https://piminer.home.blog/


#97 OFFLINE   PhilA

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Posted 18 August 2018 - 04:28 PM

That would be a reasonable thing to try out.

A "1" on your meter references infinity; across the sensor should have liberated a reading, particularly on the 20K range. To see 40~kOhm towards the ECU is sensible and looks good. Particularly if the other side gives a similar reading, you're measuring the electronics of the ABS module.

Your plan of action is sane.

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#98 OFFLINE   Stanky

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Posted 18 August 2018 - 06:49 PM

Having been shopping this was bugging me so while my wife and the kids devoured a Pizza Hut pizza I went out to attack the drivers side to see what readings I could get from that (and try not to break it).

 

I didn't bother getting pictures because its basically the same. the end of the sensor was similarly covered in ming and I duly cleaned it then refitted it. I bent the arch liner out the way and unclipped the connection from ECU loom to sensor wiring and took these measurements:

 

ECU > Sensor connector wiring

20k Ohms - 1

200k Ohms - 41.4

Continuity - 1

 

Sensor wiring only

20k Ohms - 1.59

200k Ohms - 01.6

Continuity - 1589

 

So the only differences are a miniscule variation in the resistance in the wiring to the ECU in the 200k Ohms range and actual readings for resistance and continuity in the sensor circuit. This suggests that my earlier synopsis is right and the passenger side wiring in the sensor is broken, therefore there is no resistance or continuity readings, so the left hand sensor is at fault and needs to be replaced.

 

Can someone more electrically competent than me (basically a toddler with a 9v battery) check over the above and either verify that I'm right, or tell me why I'm wrong and what I should look at next?

 

For reference, I used the diagnostic paperclip once it was all back together and the error is still 3-2 passenger side 'Problem in left front wheel speed sensor circuit' only. So I haven't hammed up the other sensor in the course of my cleaning and multimetering by the looks of things.

 

So I might have to bite the bullet and bid on the sensor on ebay since they don't come up very often it seems.


2004 Daewoo Lacetti

2004 SAAB 9-3

 

2003 Toyota Yaris (Currently a member of the Jim Bell automotive group)

1998 Toyota Celica ST (moved to Scotland with the Hawkeyethenoo's)

1996 Nissan Almera GX (departed)

198? Jago Geep (Now resideing chez red5)

368728.png

 

Yeah yeah, another blog. Why I use silly hardware to mine cryptocurrency: https://piminer.home.blog/


#99 OFFLINE   PhilA

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Posted 19 August 2018 - 02:46 AM

Yup. Car wiring looks to be fine.

Replace sensor. Wiring inside has gone bad. Simples.

1.59 kOhm is in a sensible range for a coil like that.

Phil
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#100 OFFLINE   SiC

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Posted 19 August 2018 - 07:54 AM

Is the sensor shared with any other Toyota models? If it's got a part no. on, you could try searching on that. The Japanese car manufacturers absolutely love part sharing and commonality.
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#101 OFFLINE   Stanky

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Posted 19 August 2018 - 08:31 AM

I've got the Toyota part number, and a bunch of part numbers for aftermarket equivalents but none seem to be available anywhere which is a bit annoying.

 

Here are the cross ref part numbers:

 

https://www.yoyopart...8954320110.html

 

A couple of these are on ebay, but all north of £180 which is a bit much. I'm amazed that its not shared with anything else, or at least I can't find any other cars its shared with, even within the contemporary Toyota range.


2004 Daewoo Lacetti

2004 SAAB 9-3

 

2003 Toyota Yaris (Currently a member of the Jim Bell automotive group)

1998 Toyota Celica ST (moved to Scotland with the Hawkeyethenoo's)

1996 Nissan Almera GX (departed)

198? Jago Geep (Now resideing chez red5)

368728.png

 

Yeah yeah, another blog. Why I use silly hardware to mine cryptocurrency: https://piminer.home.blog/


#102 OFFLINE   taxi paul

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Posted 19 August 2018 - 09:13 AM

So just catching up. Kids off school , holidays and what not. I was the original custodian of this car. I won it on eBay off a old chap . Great mot history and loads of paperwork. Plus a bonus abs light. I did intend to get it all serviced and resprayed. But finances said no. It is a lovely car and looks and drives great. You are giving it the care it deserves . Good luck . I replaced the front speakers and electric Ariel, which promptly broke again. Would have another but maybe a jdm 2.0 l8tr auto one.
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#103 OFFLINE   Stanky

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Posted 19 August 2018 - 09:49 AM

Hopefully we can sort out the ABS light and then its basically fine mechanically. The poweaseling could do with some fixing up in due course but otherwise its spot on. I need a day with an orbital buffer thing and some t-cut really but thats pretty much all thats still on the 'to do' list.


2004 Daewoo Lacetti

2004 SAAB 9-3

 

2003 Toyota Yaris (Currently a member of the Jim Bell automotive group)

1998 Toyota Celica ST (moved to Scotland with the Hawkeyethenoo's)

1996 Nissan Almera GX (departed)

198? Jago Geep (Now resideing chez red5)

368728.png

 

Yeah yeah, another blog. Why I use silly hardware to mine cryptocurrency: https://piminer.home.blog/


#104 ONLINE   Tamworthbay

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Posted 19 August 2018 - 11:46 AM

Just a thought and JUST to get it through an MoT, could you Jerry rig it so the one good sensor fed both sides? Just hook up a couple of wires across to the other connector. I wouldn’t want to use it for real as no idea what it would do to the abs and could be dangerous obviously but as it is the ECU just switches off the abs and you have a car like the old days and you could run it like that between MoTs.

#105 OFFLINE   red5

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Posted 19 August 2018 - 02:27 PM

I got that far.
Didn't remove relay for above reasons. Check front sensor output. I suspect the abs controller tbh, I couldn't get it to power up successfully. Test procedure is a bit meh.

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#106 OFFLINE   red5

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Posted 19 August 2018 - 02:27 PM

It's 4 channel iirc.

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#107 OFFLINE   taxi paul

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Posted 19 August 2018 - 02:47 PM

Oh and I fitted a shiney gear knob. My tool kit consists of big hammer,little hammer.

#108 OFFLINE   Stanky

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Posted 26 August 2018 - 03:42 PM

Manure update on a rainy day. Less good than the other threads you could be tuning into right now. Its basically the Channel Five of AS threads.

 

Anyway, the ABS sensor I ordered last weekend is being delivered to me by a highly trained team of snails, and might not be here until the middle of next week. Today, I set to sorting out a very smoll niggle. The parcel shelf, on which i plan to store my parcel when it arrives, is broken. It has two plastic rods that brace the shelf underneath, the rearmost of which has two pokey-out bits that locate in the behind the rear seats which allow the shelf to pivot when you open the bootlid. This would be great except one of the endy bits has snapped off, presumably under the weight of a particulrly heavy parcel.

 

Anyway, someone tried to fix it with copydex which admirable for the intention, but its not a great choice to fix plastics, especially weight-bearing ones.

 

Have some terrible pictures. Getting a phone camera to focus on shiny black things at close range isn't as easy as you'd think (says the bad workman, blaming his tools)

 

DSC_0019.JPG

 

This is what we're dealing with, Its a clean break, and the endy bit does sit in the hole fine, but needs securing properly. This is how it should look:

 

DSC_0020.JPG

 

I thought about just glueing it but I think it'd fracture again if I did - certainly after a few hot days. So thinking caps were engaged.

 

First of all i put the end bit in the vice, tightened it up to keep it still and got the tiniest drill bit I had and carefully* drilled through

 

DSC_0023.JPG

 

It was a bit rough so I tidied it up with a file

 

DSC_0024.JPG

 

I thought I got pictures of the next bit but seem to have failed. Anyway, Next I refitted the end into the shelf, and used the hole I;d just drilled as a guide to drill into the end of the rod that goes across the shelf to make sure it'd line up. Then I used a larger bit to enlarge the hole, and snipped off a bit of the old coathanger that i save for things like this. Incidentially it was the same bit of old coathanger that I used to get the cambelt tensioner spring to locate, so thats twice its saved my bacon with jobs on this car now.

 

With the snipped off bit of coathanger fitting snugly in the hole it looked like this

 

DSC_0025.JPG

 

In this (terrible) picture you can see the rod that braces the parcel shelf. This is what I was drilling into

 

DSC_0026.JPG

 

Next up, i used the gorilla glue I bought at Aldi earlier to glue the coathanger wire into the endy bit. I gave it 5 minutes to dry properly, then squirted more gorilla glue into the hole I;d drilled in the parcel shelf bracing rod, and all over the surface where they join (which had snapped). I poked the coathanger wire down the hole and pushed it so it joined up correctly.

 

Then I squirted more gorilla glue around the join and the flat top of the endy bit which sits against the flat bit of a parcel shelf

 

DSC_0031.JPG

 

And left it to dry in the shed for an hour or two

 

DSC_0033.JPG

 

I hope this will be a stronger fix, the coathanger wire goes about 2cm either side of the fracture and should act as a sort of splint to spread the weight down the centre of the rod part, and glued in place. There is more glue on the mating faces of the fracture which should keep it square.

 

its back in the car now and seems to be working as intended. Not the most exciting update but one more thing crossed off the 'to do' list. As you can see its very much 'minor niggles' now.

 

I hope to be able to change the ABS sensor next weekend, or potentially on Friday morning and clear that last bug off the list then the Celica may well be up for sale again. its been fun to fix the things its needed, but I'd like another project (my wife has decided that what I really need to do is buy a Piaggio Ape, the logical choice when it comes to transport for a family of 4, right?) but for that I need space on the drive. If anyone is interested in the Celica do make yourselves known.

 

It could do with a bit of remedial paintwork which i do intend to do, but I need a calm, dry day for it. I should have got stuck into this earlier in the summer really...

 

Anyway, thanks for reading.

 

 


  • danthecapriman, holbeck, Jim Bell and 1 other like this

2004 Daewoo Lacetti

2004 SAAB 9-3

 

2003 Toyota Yaris (Currently a member of the Jim Bell automotive group)

1998 Toyota Celica ST (moved to Scotland with the Hawkeyethenoo's)

1996 Nissan Almera GX (departed)

198? Jago Geep (Now resideing chez red5)

368728.png

 

Yeah yeah, another blog. Why I use silly hardware to mine cryptocurrency: https://piminer.home.blog/


#109 OFFLINE   PhilA

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Posted 26 August 2018 - 05:37 PM

Reread this, not sure if anybody said but that rusty bleb on the door frame will have been the seat belt buckle smacking the paint at some point in the past.

Phil
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#110 OFFLINE   Stanky

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Posted 06 September 2018 - 11:37 AM

Mini update, the remote central locking fob hasn't worked in my ownership, and I don't think it ever worked for Holbeck either.

 

Today, while browsing for the interchangability of ABS sensors (since the only one for sale secondhand on ebay was 'misplaced' by MyHermes) I found an aticle on common lolz that happen with this generation of Celicas, including the remote fobs which stop working.

 

I followed the procedure to reset the rolling code thing and I now have RCL again. such decadence!

 

Also, got a lead on an outfit in the west country which might have a suitable ABS sensor too, its for the 2.0 car but from what I've read it should fit and work. The chap I spoke to has gone away to test it and will get back to me once done which is a positive sign - rather than just blithely selling me the thing and hoping for the best.

 

Failing that, apparently a 1991 - 1996 Camry ABS sensor is the same, but needs some bespoke routing using cable ties to keep it out of the way. These are £35 new on ebay, rather than >£200 from Toyota (or lucky dip in a MyHermes distribution centre, somewhere in the UK).

 

smoll things, but steps in the right direction.


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2004 Daewoo Lacetti

2004 SAAB 9-3

 

2003 Toyota Yaris (Currently a member of the Jim Bell automotive group)

1998 Toyota Celica ST (moved to Scotland with the Hawkeyethenoo's)

1996 Nissan Almera GX (departed)

198? Jago Geep (Now resideing chez red5)

368728.png

 

Yeah yeah, another blog. Why I use silly hardware to mine cryptocurrency: https://piminer.home.blog/


#111 OFFLINE   Jim Bell

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Posted 06 September 2018 - 01:05 PM

Free fixes are the best fixes man. Well done. Fingers crossed on the old abs fixeroo.

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#112 OFFLINE   Snipes

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Posted 06 September 2018 - 02:18 PM

I wonder if there is any commonality with Carina E ABS? They're in the same family but I guess they may just as hard to track down (and probably different due to being built half the world apart).

#113 OFFLINE   Stanky

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Posted 06 September 2018 - 02:25 PM

Thats where my search began, it'd be crazy to have different units for Celica, Carina E, Corolla, Avensis since the hubs I'd expect to be pretty much interchangeable, however information on such matters is rather scarce.

 

The various Toyota forums are incredibly short on what I considered to be relatively simple information which more than one person (i.e. ME) have required in the past. Once I do find out an answer I will make sure to post there for future use.

 

I'm just astonished a worldwide all-models Toyota forum doesn't have a conclusive answer on this. Its mad.


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2004 Daewoo Lacetti

2004 SAAB 9-3

 

2003 Toyota Yaris (Currently a member of the Jim Bell automotive group)

1998 Toyota Celica ST (moved to Scotland with the Hawkeyethenoo's)

1996 Nissan Almera GX (departed)

198? Jago Geep (Now resideing chez red5)

368728.png

 

Yeah yeah, another blog. Why I use silly hardware to mine cryptocurrency: https://piminer.home.blog/


#114 OFFLINE   Snipes

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Posted 06 September 2018 - 04:04 PM

The Celica has always been the coupe counterpart to the T-Series line of Saloons (wether badged Corona, Carina E, Avensis,) along with a load of other models not sold in the UK.

#115 OFFLINE   Stanky

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Posted 06 September 2018 - 04:11 PM

Breakers say they don't have the part on the shelf, but they do have a Celica ST thats due to be broken soon and my name and phone number is against the ABS sensor in question.

 

I might just order the Camry one anyway and use that until the right one comes up.


2004 Daewoo Lacetti

2004 SAAB 9-3

 

2003 Toyota Yaris (Currently a member of the Jim Bell automotive group)

1998 Toyota Celica ST (moved to Scotland with the Hawkeyethenoo's)

1996 Nissan Almera GX (departed)

198? Jago Geep (Now resideing chez red5)

368728.png

 

Yeah yeah, another blog. Why I use silly hardware to mine cryptocurrency: https://piminer.home.blog/


#116 OFFLINE   SiC

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Posted 06 September 2018 - 04:23 PM

Tried Rock auto?
Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
Moderns: 2000 Boxster - New enough to drive sublimely but old enough to nearly feel like a classic, 2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying.

#117 OFFLINE   Stanky

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Posted 06 September 2018 - 04:43 PM

Yeah, £150 plus shipping. Cheaper than Toyota themselves but still not 'cheap'.

 

Thanks for the suggestion though.


2004 Daewoo Lacetti

2004 SAAB 9-3

 

2003 Toyota Yaris (Currently a member of the Jim Bell automotive group)

1998 Toyota Celica ST (moved to Scotland with the Hawkeyethenoo's)

1996 Nissan Almera GX (departed)

198? Jago Geep (Now resideing chez red5)

368728.png

 

Yeah yeah, another blog. Why I use silly hardware to mine cryptocurrency: https://piminer.home.blog/


#118 ONLINE   iainrcz

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Posted 06 September 2018 - 04:47 PM

£150 for an abs sensor?

I got 2x for £22 on eBay for my first 407.

Then spent 2 hours swearing changing one.

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#119 OFFLINE   Stanky

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Posted 06 September 2018 - 07:56 PM

Ah, you see thats where Toyota do things a bit differently. the replacement of the sensor will take me approximately 15 minutes, including the removal of the wheel. I know because I've taken off one 20 year old original to test it. So labour is miniscule. They cripple you with parts costs though, the gits.

 

The gen 7 ones are buttons on ebay, but mysteriously the gen 6 ones are like hens teeth, and priced accordingly.


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2004 Daewoo Lacetti

2004 SAAB 9-3

 

2003 Toyota Yaris (Currently a member of the Jim Bell automotive group)

1998 Toyota Celica ST (moved to Scotland with the Hawkeyethenoo's)

1996 Nissan Almera GX (departed)

198? Jago Geep (Now resideing chez red5)

368728.png

 

Yeah yeah, another blog. Why I use silly hardware to mine cryptocurrency: https://piminer.home.blog/


#120 OFFLINE   tooSavvy

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Posted 07 September 2018 - 09:05 AM

ToyotaNation have a lot of wise-guys (aye, knowledgeable) and a smattering of parting out/fixer uppers types.

The good 'ol Camry seems to support 50% of 'keeping my old Toyota on the road' bodging. Some members cross-ship part out from the sunny side to the East... As eastern wreckers seem to frag more readily :(

Nice to see an old Toyota getting some lurve ;)
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Wallsend?.....it's not the End of the Walled ;<)

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