Sold 45 V6 Connie - £1.69491525 per ticket easy* project no MoT. Please save me

[clayts450]

Book of lies also from eBay, £5

[oldcars]

This works for 75's gives you build data from the vin. Might work on 45's i'm not sure.

 

http://www.mg-rover.info/get_info.htm?

[clayts450]

This works for 75's gives you build data from the vin. Might work on 45's i'm not sure.

 

http://www.mg-rover.info/get_info.htm?

 

Yeah I tried it but there was some sort of Captcha shite going on which wouldn't let me in. I suspect as it's a Rover build it should be in there.

 

Weirdly when I was getting insurance quotes, Money Supermarket and Go Compare described it as a Rover 75 - Confused got it right. Bizarre.

[xtriple]

That's a brilliant buy   Sounds like a really nice seller as well, which sort of adds to the experience. You could always get any seat base and then put a cover on for the (imaginary) dog to sit on

 

I really want a Rover, but I don't seem to get on with British cars and the slight chance of OMGHGF scares the poop out of me.

[clayts450]

Well an afternoon of much fettling obtained one result, the easiest of the lot. SRS light now off. Simply a case of battery off, give it 10 mins or so for the airbags to discharge, locate the yellow block connectors under each front seat, pull them apart, squirt some contact cleaner in there, put them back together, job's a good un.

 

The seat height adjuster is a weird one - the rod across the front had become detached from the windy thing, so managed to pop it back in with brute force and ignorance, and wedge a bolt between the windy thing where one had mysteriously disappeared, and what looks like a link to the adjuster thingy but still nothing. One for another day, as the whole lot will have to come out so I can get my head round it, but at least the seat doesn't wobble now. Still bang my head on the door frame getting in though

 

Brakes - fail. Looks like it's the bottom guide pin or more likely the piston itself which is jammed up solid, but the caliper wasn't coming off as one of the guide pin bolts was rusted solid. For now I've Plusgassed carefully and put it all back together, as I need a proper flare type spanner as the one I was using, made of cheese-imium, made little impact.

 

Managed to get the top bolt off without too much swearing and as I did the back metal bit of the outside pad dropped out - very little meat on it, the inside one okay-ish. 

 

Another slight annoyance - some of the wheels have locking wheel nut covers, which panicked me a little but luckily they're just that, covers. Checking round the car, though, there appear to be two locking wheel nuts, one on nsr, one on nsf. I suspect this is gonna be a pain in the arse when I come to replace the brake pads on the rear...

 

Also learned the engine immobiliser works properly - tried to start without pressing unlock on the fob, and it weren't gonna do it, which is good.

 

So for now, it's on the naughty step until I can sort the brakes out. Looks like the Streetshite will be on parent duties...

[clayts450]

Interesting discovery on a website called CarNapper, https://carnapper.co.uk/car/Y315PGM , where I found some historical eBay adverts for this old bus, advertised variously by one seller in 2015/16

 

The good news (assuming it's correct, and no reason to suspect not) is this bit: 

 

 

Cam belt etc changed at 75000 miles

 

which is round about 5 years ago. Result

[clayts450]

Driver's seat sorted. After checking on the 75/ZT forum (and these are 75 seats in the early top spec 45s) there is a knack, and by god it's violent if you're not expecting it !. 

 

Push the seat right back, lift the height adjuster up.....and then whilst sat in the seat, bounce up and down vigorously like you're pogo-ing at a Sex Pistols gig (wasn't quite described in those terms over at the gentleman's club forum, but you get the picture).

 

After lots of pinging and grinding noise the seat lowers to the lowest setting. I now am adequately seated behind the wheel.

 

For avoidance of doubt, I checked what happened when I lifted the adjuster again, only I wasn't sat in it this time. Bang, it rises up quickly, and walloped me on the chin.

 

Cue more pogo-ing, this time at a Siouxsie and the Banshees gig. Got it back again.

 

Won't be doing that again in a hurry, unless I shrink in the wash.

[purplebargeken]

Welcome to the world of Rover fixing.  TBF that seems to be the main way of fixing most things on this forum.

[clayts450]

Turning this into a 'project' although I'm hoping this will be roadworthy again in a week or so.

 

I've posted a few updates on News24 but let's have a summary of what I've done and not done.

 

Hot wheels

 

So the offside rear brake was getting red hot even in a 5 mile commute. Well known weak spot are the rear calipers, which have a propensity to seize if not greased up regularly missus.

 

Hit a snag early on when the lower guide pin bolt refused to budge and was rounded off (mainly by me) to resemble the moon, despite copious PlusGas and other desperate measures. You'd think an Irwin Bolt Extractor would be the ideal tool. It would, just not here where the space around the bolt was at a premium. 

 

A quick Amazon search revealed these little cuties:

 

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01N8PEJIF

 

Rather than a socket, these are bolt sized, but work exactly the same as the Irwins. Popped it on, applied tiny pressure with a 19 inch 19mm spanner,. Off she popped. 

 

The caliper virtually fell off (you would expect some resistance) and when I inspected it I discovered why:

 

 

The inner brake pad was missing in action, the piston seal had completely eroded away and was hanging by a thread, the piston itself helpfully corroded into place. 

 

Used caliper which looks okay on its way, price £29 off the Bay. I've also bought new discs so these will go on as well for belt and braces, before fitting new Pagid pads.

 

Work in progress.

 

In the meantime, I could start on the nearside rear wheel. Only there's an old school MGR locking wheel nut and no key. No letter on the lugnut to tell me what key number I need. 18mm socket located, ruddy big hammer to be located.

[clayts450]

Two seat non-coupe

 

The PO admitted the rear seat bench was FUBARed by rodents unknown - he'd taken it out to allow his dog to sprawl out in the back and into the boot but some toothy mammals had wrecked it whilst it was laid up in a mate's outhouse. Elaborate hoax or the truth ? Who knows. 10/10 for creativity if the former.

 

Chances of finding a sandstone beige leather rear seat bench ? Minute. Rimmers have the right size seat cover for the wrong price, and only one in stock. £50+VAT. Will keep an eye on the price and maybe haggle with them as recommended. One for the future.

 

So for the first month it was used as a coupe.

 

A bloke locally had been breaking an old HHR 400 saloon and he just happened to have the right size bench seat, so a trip to Sherwood midweek resulted in me grabbing this and the matching head rests.

 

It'll do....

 

Blue cloth and beige leather FTW

 

 

Blue cloth headrests and beige leather FTW2

 

 

No longer a coupe

[clayts450]

Seat belts minus 1

 

The dog adaptation also had a disappointing side result. PO had snipped the centre rear seat belt in two rendering the car road unlegal like.

 

£15 to a breaker in Lancs and a leisurely* 150 minute stint in the car in oven heat this afternoon resulted in this:

 

 

150 minutes ? But why ?

 

(1) Remove rear speakers

(2) Remove D pillar upper trim

(3) Remove parcel shelf

(4) Remove lower mounting bolt

(5) Remove upper mounting bolt

 

Refitting is a reversal etc etc

 

To be fair, the majority of the 150 minutes was me shuffling bent up double old man style to my AA truck (aka Streetshite boot) to pick up tools, due to my fucked back, not helped by endlessly lifting that mahoosive 30kg SGS 3 ton trolley jack in and out of boots and hatches (I'd also sorted out the Snoozer's brakes earlier in the week)

[clayts450]

You've got a flat tyre mate

 

FFS - my elation at my 5 seat conversion lasted all of ten seconds. Neighbour pointed this out. Offside front tyre down to 10psi. Pumped up again to 32psi - will see how much air it loses overnight.

 

Part worn on the cards.

 

More soon folks

[stonedagain]

Turning this into a 'project' although I'm hoping this will be roadworthy again in a week or so.

 

I've posted a few updates on News24 but let's have a summary of what I've done and not done.

 

Hot wheels

 

So the offside rear brake was getting red hot even in a 5 mile commute. Well known weak spot are the rear calipers, which have a propensity to seize if not greased up regularly missus.

 

Hit a snag early on when the lower guide pin bolt refused to budge and was rounded off (mainly by me) to resemble the moon, despite copious PlusGas and other desperate measures. You'd think an Irwin Bolt Extractor would be the ideal tool. It would, just not here where the space around the bolt was at a premium.

 

A quick Amazon search revealed these little cuties:

 

download.jpg

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01N8PEJIF

 

Rather than a socket, these are bolt sized, but work exactly the same as the Irwins. Popped it on, applied tiny pressure with a 19 inch spanner,. Off she popped.

 

The caliper virtually fell off (you would expect some resistance) and when I inspected it I discovered why:

 

IMG_20180629_122621.jpg

 

The inner brake pad was missing in action, the piston seal had completely eroded away and was hanging by a thread, the piston itself helpfully corroded into place.

 

Used caliper which looks okay on its way, price £29 off the Bay. I've also bought new discs so these will go on as well for belt and braces, before fitting new Pagid pads.

 

Work in progress.

 

In the meantime, I could start on the nearside rear wheel. Only there's an old school MGR locking wheel nut and no key. No letter on the lugnut to tell me what key number I need. 18mm socket located, ruddy big hammer to be located.

where did you find the 19 inch spanner?

[clayts450]

where did you find the 19 inch spanner?

 

In the BFG's tool box of course

[Jewel25]

What technique did you use to bleed the brakes ? Mine need an overhaul . How front wheel and now pedal goes to the floor.

[Peter C]

Great fred this and I’m loving the blue rear seat conversion.

 

Bookmarked and awaiting further updates.

[clayts450]

What technique did you use to bleed the brakes ? Mine need an overhaul . How front wheel and now pedal goes to the floor.

 

Haven't got there yet, but hopefully would only need to bleed the caliper I fit rather than the whole system - I may even be able to get away with that all together by clamping the hose off. 

 

If doing solo, Halfords do a micky mouse brake bleeding kit for £6 https://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/hand-tools/europat-vizibleed-brake-and-clutch-bleeding-kit The Gunsons Eazibleed kits don't work on non-Honda engined Rovers without a lot of bodging, due to the odd sized master cylinder cap.

[clayts450]

Bathgate no more, Linwood no more, Methil no more, Loch Ingwheelnuts no more

 

In true AS fashion off came the two remaining locking wheel nuts today (nsr/nsf)

 

My sacrificial 18mm 12 point sockets, successfully pounded on with a club hammer and cracked off with a breaker bar - these are the old style MGR lockers, before they sensibly switched to McGards in around 2003

 

 

Tyres and tribulations

 

Sadly the nsf lost 7psi overnight so deffo some puncture-shite therein.

[greengartside]

‘If you goooooo, will you send back...

...a locking wheel nut from a Rover...’

[clayts450]

There's a roof (rack) loose around this hoose

 

Given this car will be my luxury wafting barge I felt the roof racks were a little superfluous and would have a negative impact on the gas guzzling when trundling along. Given the Snoozer is the tip car and the Streetshite has roof rails if I really need them (I won't) off they came.

 

Before

 

 

After

 

 

I'm sure their removal will ensure a much higher* MPG than the low 20s/early 30s promised. Looks a lot more dignified now, I think.

[clayts450]

Braking point

 

Pleased to report that after a lot of faffology the back brakes are done. Nearside was a doozey, offside nearly broke me. Sorry no pics as I was tired, hot and very grumpy.

 

Every single bolt I needed to get off was rusted to oblivion, requiring copious amounts of Plusgas. Those cute little bolt extractors I bought came into their own when I needed to undo the bleed nipple screws on both sides, and on the caliper guide pin bolt on the nearside, as naturally they were welded on.

 

The piston in the offside caliper was well corroded  - the replacement caliper which came was next to useless, so that was £29 well* spent, although I was able to salvage the dust seal and the piston from that one (could have saved meself some dosh by buying these separately).

 

Trying to get the dust seal back on proved tricky but with a bit of judicious wiggling and lubing with both brake fluid and red rubber grease I was able to coax it all back in and wind it in successfully. The brake line clamp I got for £8 from Amazon came into its own, along with the Halfrauds solo bleeding kit.

 

I replaced the caliper guide pins on that side and the seals and lubed everything nicely. I bled that side as the piston had popped out before I clamped the hose off (d'oh)

 

No volcanic temperatures from the rear brakes now following a test drive and all seems good.

 

So, the front nearside is now at melting point. Thought I'd have the wheel off yesterday to clean up the brakes therein, and to also see if I could locate the puncture in that wheel. No dice.

 

MG Rover used these ridiculous wheel nuts which have an outer chrome/steel type decorative casing (they give the impression they should just unclip, but they don't).

 

As long as they aren't overtorqued to oblivion, they usually hold firm and spin off nicely.

 

Naturally two of the nuts' outer casings have swollen so neither a 19mm (too tight) nor a 21mm socket (too loose) will go over them. Having to wait for some better quality nuts off the Bay, but in the meantime am buying a 20mm socket special like, to see if I can coax them off that way. Otherwise, it's back to hammering a smaller socket etc etc, but I'm mindful these ones can be very easy to cock up (not the same as the locking nuts I was able to get off as these are made of cheese).

 

Same issue on Land Roverz too http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/swollen-nuts-99315-15.html

 

 

 

Cue chorus of 'why can't anything be simples ?' 

[Sir Snipes]

Ford do that nowadays too. The little cap fooks off, making them 18mm and the factory wheel brace too large to fit the wheel nut. I can see no good reason why they put on an 18mm then "trim" it up to a 19?

[clayts450]

Swollen nuts

 

20mm socket - fail

 

19mm impact socket and a club hammer - success

 

The first attempt just gave me the crappy cap but exposed the wheel nut - luckily I had an 18mm socket to hand so that was sorted easy enough with a breaker (top right):

 

 

Here's the crappy cap

 

 

Naturally it got stock in the socket,. Whack with a hammer and a punch. Clearly made of cheese

 

 

The second attempt (top left) was not so straightforward of course. Why would it be ? The cap kept spinning round and the socket dropped off with alarming regularity. I went psycho with the club hammer on the socket, and this time the whole thing came off in one after some gentle breaker barring:

 

 

Essentially the 18mm nut gets exposed to road salt, rusts, pushes the cap out thus deforming it to a 19mm+ size. I'd hate to be on the side of the road with a flat and be faced with that bullshit.

 

Some nice shiny all in one nuts eBayed and should be here early next week. (I'd already bought two to replace the locking wheel nut and they're good for £2 a pop). 

 

These'll go in the bin, but at least I can now get the wheel off and have a look at the melting brakes, and maybe figure out where the puncture is in the tyre. I'll mosey back to the car after the Eng v Sve game.

 

Alloys were scratched to fuck, no doubt by one of the previous nine owners' attempts to get the wheel off.

[155V6]

My 25 (now sold) has those wheel nuts too.Horrible things 

[dollywobbler]

Ok. Why did I agree to buy one of these? Designed-in shitness really pisses me off.

[Anglevan]

DW - when you start and drive it you will realise why... im chuffed with my 45. Which reminds me i must update a thread on that one.....

[Skut]

The ZR has these wanky things and its my least favourite aspect of the car. All of the covers have dents in the top where a 19mm is hammered over the top and then the nut hammered out.

[clayts450]

DW - when you start and drive it you will realise why... im chuffed with my 45. Which reminds me i must update a thread on that one.....

 

Hurry up, Anglevan, you're letting the 45 V6 shiters club down....

 

DW - it's a minor niggle - as Anglevan notes it is a lovely ride (when it works).

 

I could do with one of these on the driver's window, however, to remind me not to drive anywhere due to the 3 nut situation (two of which are only loosely on after front brake antics this PM)

 

[clayts450]

Braking bad

 

So a look at the front nearside brake. The usual old problem of a stuck guide pin bolt.

 

This was child's play compared to the rear brakes. Bolt came off with a bit of effort and the caliper swings up, presenting the pads.

 

Cleaned up all the metalwork and the springs and greased everywhere, filed down one of the pads which was sticking a little even after the clean out, shoved some red rubber grease between the dust seal and the piston. Generous squirts of brake cleaner all over.

 

Pads had plenty of meat left and weren't wearing unevenly, but I did remove one of the shims which had rusted to nothing (non-essential frippery although there might be a new rattle as a consequence) so job (hopefully) is a good un.

 

Won't know for sure until I have test driven, which I cannot do until I get the full complement of lug nuts back on the wheel.

 

Air today gone tomorrow

 

A fairly derisory exam of the tyre revealed no obvious puncture, but it had lost air again, so it's sneaking out somewhere. Put some soapy water on the valve, not that. Did a feeble water test, but I'll get the guys at F1 to give it the onceover, and then ask them to replace it with something deathly and Chinese. This is a £250 car remember, so I ain't spending the same again on no poncey rubber.

 

For some odd reason the fronts on the car are 195/45/16, the rears 205/45/16. Stanced, yo. 195/45s don't even appear on the 45 spec list, so not sure what the thinking was there. Anyways, I'll go with two new 205/45s at the front to keep things simple.

 

With any luck the car will be off the 'project' list soon and into daily service.

[clayts450]

4 SALE, NEED GONE, NEIGHBOURS' CURTAINS TWITCHING, I KNOW WOT IT'S WORF, etc

 

Law of bangernomics means this has to go due to cost of repairs exceeding purchase price and incoming R8 - should be relatively simple* to get this back on the road but it does need some money spending to get it MoT ready

 

Date tested

24 October 2018

FAIL

Mileage

122,553 miles

MOT test number

8358 1850 3148

Test location

 View test location

Repair immediately (major defects):

Rear Exhaust has a major leak of exhaust gases box (6.1.2 (a))

Emissions not tested rear exhaust box major blow (8.2.1.2 (d))

Nearside Front Headlamp aim too low also possible bulb re position (4.1.2 (a))

Battery insecure and likely to cause a short circuit (4.13 (a) (ii))

Nearside Front Track rod end ball joint dust cover excessively damaged or deteriorated so that it no longer prevents the ingress of dirt (2.1.3 (g) (ii))

Nearside Front Service brake excessively binding (1.2.1 (f))

Service brake efficiency below requirements (1.2.2 (a) (i))

Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories):

Offside Brake pipe corroded, covered in grease or other material front to rear rear end (1.1.11 ©)

Nearside Rear Suspension arm pin or bush worn but not resulting in excessive movement (5.3.4 (a) (i))

Offside Rear Suspension arm pin or bush worn but not resulting in excessive movement (5.3.4 (a) (i))

n/s/r tyre heavy inner treads wear

n/s/r tyre inner/outer walls cracks/splits

 

The front brakes are pretty shoddy although I replaced 3 of the 4 guide pins, bolts and shims on Sunday. The nearside piston is fucked, so may be easier to replace with another caliper; the offside top guide pin is seized solid and the gaiter is split - a little heat may coax the pin out otherwise...another caliper...

 

The other stuff should be reasonably simple for a competent mechanic, which I am not.

 

Other issues

 

• Strange noise from rear nearside wheel but not picked up as a bearing or anything on the MoT - may just be brakes again (pads were replaced recently by me)
•  
• Sometimes fails to start - simply wiggle the spade connector to the starter a few times and you're away. Seems very sporadic, goes weeks without doing it
• Sometimes hunts at idle between 750 and 2000 - probably needs IACV cleaning out
• Has a mismatched exterior white door handle on nearside rear

 

This is the V6 and is uber rare. It's a lovely wafter (see Dollywobbler's V6 video for proof of how good they sound and drive)

 

Will come with a box of new front brake pads and some shiny rear discs I never got round to fitting and a boot full of other detritus no doubt

 

£100 to a Shiter, Nottingham, tax to get you home etc

 

Been offered £127 by Car Take Back