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Egg's 95 Mazda 323 coupé - Washer fluid flush


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#151 OFFLINE   dougiefourspeed

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Posted 09 September 2018 - 11:29 AM

Looks good Mr. Egg.

I can’t remember the last time I saw one of those on the road, it’s only the occasional ‘F’ I spot from time to time.
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#152 OFFLINE   egg

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Posted 11 September 2018 - 03:53 PM

So, with all the costs in for the latest round of improvements. Let's look at total project costs.

 

Total project costs to date = £415 (purchase price + MOT and associated fixing)

Other Labour costs = £125

parts spend = £166.75

total costs = £706.75

Estimated value of car = £450  :-D 

 

High Priority

Entire new exhaust (looks like can source from Germany via ebay for at least the middle/rear box) - including a check on the manifold Partially done, Middle and rear section £76, front down pipe still needs changing
Oil and Filter change Done, Unipart oil £8, Oil Filter £2
Deal with 2 worst rust areas Partially done, Vactan applied to 2 worst areas, Bilt hamber wax on order (not added to costs)

Medium priority
Air filter change - done 17/5 (cost £5)
Pollen filter change - kinda done 16/5 (cost £11)
Fuel Filter change - done 2/6 (cost £6)
Get a spare key - done 15/9 (cost £35)
New Tyres
Cambelt and aux belt
New Rad/Coolant change

replace screws on exhaust manifold heat shield

Low priority
A general go over with the G3 scratch remover - one side done to limited effect 31/5 (cost £0)
new wiper blades
paint wiper arms - rear wiper done 8/6 (cost zero - obviously some materials, but not worth costing!)
Bulbs for door courtesy lights - done 26/5 (cost £2.75)
Square front number plate
Refurbish/replace wheel trims
Replace GLX side badges - done 15/6 (cost £8.75)
Change gearbox oil (would be nice to do filter)
Clean/replace PCV valve - done 26/5 (cost £3.25)
Underneath rust prevention

new captive nut for side light - done 21/6 (cost £2)

Paint battery clamp

PAS fluid (oil cooling will need replacing long term - twosmoke has suggested bypassing them - and this could be done when the radiator is replaced) - done 9/6 (cost £6.99)
Soundproofing....


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1993 Ford Mondeo 1.6 base, 1993 Ford Mondeo 1.6 GLX , 1995 Mazda 323c 1.5 auto.


#153 OFFLINE   egg

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Posted 11 September 2018 - 04:29 PM

Here's the two worst areas where I've called on the Pope (Vatcan). My plan is to then cover in Bilt Hamber Dynax UC to maximise the chances of it getting through the winter.

 

I'd like to get it on a ramp and have a proper go underneath too.

 

What the longer term plans and role for this car are on the fleet remain unclear.

 

DSCF9571.JPG

DSCF9572.JPG

 

 

 

 

 

 


1993 Ford Mondeo 1.6 base, 1993 Ford Mondeo 1.6 GLX , 1995 Mazda 323c 1.5 auto.


#154 OFFLINE   Yoss

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Posted 11 September 2018 - 07:29 PM

I don't think you can be too upset at a couple of hundred quid running costs over four months. That seems fairly normal when you buy a new* car and work through its niggles. Once sorted the next four months would probably be cheaper. You could spend many times more on any car and you'd still have to spend more on it.

It's still looks like a bargain to me.
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#155 OFFLINE   egg

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Posted 11 September 2018 - 07:44 PM

This is very true Yoss, it is whether to also go for 2 x new tyres (£100ish), Cambelt change (£200 labour?) and change the rad. I could move this on and try and get my other broken Mondeo working that's becoming a bit of an albatross....

 

But the most important thing was to 'save this for the nation' (lol), and I think at least I've done that...


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#156 OFFLINE   egg

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Posted 13 September 2018 - 01:51 PM

I've just used this for the first time, spraying over the Vactan areas in a fine covering. Spray does work well at all angles. Very easy. So will let it dry for a bit and have a look. Couple of drips only.

IMG_20180913_140414.jpg
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#157 OFFLINE   Snipes

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Posted 13 September 2018 - 01:56 PM

I used that before, too. Seemed alright, though I've no idea about how well it does over the long term.
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#158 OFFLINE   egg

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Posted 13 September 2018 - 02:01 PM

I'm seeing it as extra winter protection, and applying now while there's a good chance of it drying.  But as can be seen from the pics above, ultimately at least one area will need cutting out and replacing if this is not to become the next AS Colt...


1993 Ford Mondeo 1.6 base, 1993 Ford Mondeo 1.6 GLX , 1995 Mazda 323c 1.5 auto.


#159 OFFLINE   Snipes

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Posted 13 September 2018 - 02:05 PM

Pretty sure it stays tacky so it can "self heal".
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#160 OFFLINE   egg

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Posted 13 September 2018 - 02:11 PM

Yes, it does say 24-96 hours to cure. Obviously, what I really need to is get the car in the air and have a go underneath. The Mondeo will have a bit of this along the sills too.


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#161 OFFLINE   egg

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Posted 14 September 2018 - 03:28 PM

Bit annoying. Says you can 'drive after half an hour' after applying the wax - I left it just under 24. However, loads of mini stones have now attached themselves to it in the wheel well...

 

Umm. Might need to wash off with solvent and start again?

 

DSCF9597.JPG

 


1993 Ford Mondeo 1.6 base, 1993 Ford Mondeo 1.6 GLX , 1995 Mazda 323c 1.5 auto.


#162 OFFLINE   Snipes

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Posted 14 September 2018 - 04:30 PM

No it'll do that if it stays soft, same as putting too much grease on something inevitably attracts crud. I wouldn't worry about it.


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#163 OFFLINE   egg

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Posted 14 September 2018 - 04:38 PM

No it'll do that if it stays soft, same as putting too much grease on something inevitably attracts crud. I wouldn't worry about it.

 

Thanks. After my initial annoyance, I thought about it a bit more, and you're right. I think it does show if I do the underside on a ramp and drive it home straight away what will happen!

 

On other matters, I looked up the performance figures, and it bears out my experience, 0-30 mph is very nippy, and 0-40 good too, but it does suffer more re: achieving higher speeds. To add, these aren't the official figures.

 

Capture.JPG


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#164 OFFLINE   egg

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Posted 15 September 2018 - 10:43 AM

Well, I couldn't put off a spare key with transponder any longer. The only key has a slight crack in it, and so, one over enthusiastic turn from snapping. Cost £35. Costs updated above over £700 now...


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#165 OFFLINE   egg

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Posted 21 September 2018 - 11:11 AM

New key means new keyring :-). Not the supplying dealer, but period correct. £4.

IMG_20180921_120818~2.jpg
IMG_20180921_120831.jpg
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#166 OFFLINE   500tops

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Posted 21 September 2018 - 01:19 PM

Lovely!
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#167 OFFLINE   Jim Bell

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Posted 21 September 2018 - 01:30 PM

Classy!
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#168 OFFLINE   egg

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Posted 28 September 2018 - 10:43 AM

Hopefully this down pipe is getting fitted in the next 24 hours, assuming it's the right part!

IMG_20180928_114143.jpg
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#169 OFFLINE   oldcars

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Posted 28 September 2018 - 11:25 AM

I used that before, too. Seemed alright, though I've no idea about how well it does over the long term.

It lasts well. i used it on the bottom of the 75. Lasted a Scottish winter (6 months)


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#170 OFFLINE   oldcars

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Posted 28 September 2018 - 11:25 AM

Bit annoying. Says you can 'drive after half an hour' after applying the wax - I left it just under 24. However, loads of mini stones have now attached themselves to it in the wheel well...

 

Umm. Might need to wash off with solvent and start again?

 

attachicon.gifDSCF9597.JPG

It does that, don't worry its still working.


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#171 OFFLINE   egg

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Posted 02 October 2018 - 03:59 PM

Bollocks.

 

The down pipe was the right one, but feedback from the mechanic says it's such poor quality, it won't fit, oh and the gaskets supplied are wrong too. So that's all got to go back, which will no doubt be a battle.

 

He's hopefully ordered a better one from my dad's old motor factor (probably should have just gone to them to start with).

 

Bloody cars!


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#172 OFFLINE   egg

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Posted 08 October 2018 - 04:47 PM

Well, I just left it with him after that, and eventually....it came back fixed this afternoon...

 

The good news

 

Damn, it's quite a bit quieter now!

The new downpipe was better quality, so I now have the shame of having my parts returned to me (I'll try to get my money back, but not hopeful).

The Lambda sensor broke, and it was £85 for a new one, he knows me better than that so he chopped off the old one, found a cheapo one knocking about and soldered the wires in, good stuff!

 

The not so good

 

Needs a new CV boot (small, but another trip back probably)

The Cat itself (now the only original part of the exhaust) has a slight crack in it, but not something he fancied welding because of possible damage...

 

Ok, so new tyres and tracking next £££££££


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#173 OFFLINE   sierraman

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Posted 08 October 2018 - 05:02 PM

CV boot isn’t a difficult job providing the pinch bolt comes out ok. Get a cone and stretch boot kit from J&R only about £4-5. Job done in an hour or so.

#174 OFFLINE   egg

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Posted 20 October 2018 - 12:56 PM

Project* cost update...

 

Two new tyres under investigation for OMGIMPENDINGSNOKHAOS, we're having a great Autumn down here, has to be said.

 

Now the exhaust is (mainly) sealed, it really is nippy. It has the same power as my Mondeos,  but is around 15% lighter (1065kg approx v 1250kg approx). It is perfect for nipping about town. I do really enjoy driving it. And...Mrs Egg is ok with it to, apart from rear visibility....which Wobbler may have shown a solution to on Hubnut...

 

Total project costs to date = £415 (purchase price + MOT and associated fixing)

Other Labour costs = £175

parts spend = £236.75

total costs = £826.75

Estimated value of car = £450  :-D 

 

High Priority

Entire new exhaust Done, Complete new exhaust apart from catalyst, which has a small crack...Middle and rear section £76, front down pipe £30, used replacement Lambda sensor also replaced £25, Gaskets £7
Oil and Filter change Done, Unipart oil £8, Oil Filter £2
Deal with 2 worst rust areas Partially done - sticking plaster solution, Vactan applied to 2 worst areas, Bilt Hamber wax used on end of sills and rusty wheelarch

New CV boot

Medium priority
Air filter change - done 17/5 (cost £5)
Pollen filter change - kinda done 16/5 (cost £11)
Fuel Filter change - done 2/6 (cost £6)
Get a spare key - done 15/9 (cost £35)
2 New Front Tyres and tracking
Cambelt and aux belt (non-interference roulette)
New Rad/Coolant change

replace screws on exhaust manifold heat shield - Partially done £8.

Low priority
A general go over with the G3 scratch remover - one side done to limited effect 31/5 (cost £0)
new wiper blades
paint wiper arms - rear wiper done 8/6 (cost zero - obviously some materials, but not worth costing!)
Bulbs for door courtesy lights - done 26/5 (cost £2.75)
Square front number plate
Refurbish/replace wheel trims

Replace GLX side badges - done 15/6 (cost £8.75)
Change gearbox oil (would be nice to do filter)
Clean/replace PCV valve - done 26/5 (cost £3.25)
Underneath rust prevention

new captive nut for side light - done 21/6 (cost £2)

Paint battery clamp

PAS fluid (oil cooling will need replacing long term - twosmoke has suggested bypassing them - and this could be done when the radiator is replaced) - done 9/6 (cost £6.99)
Soundproofing.... not going to bother, it is mainly used for town driving, not many longer runs.


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#175 OFFLINE   egg

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Posted 24 October 2018 - 02:45 PM

This afternoon, this happened....a pair of Nexens Nblue HD plus (sounds like a TV!), which I know have some mixed reviews.

 

Alignment has also been done, and the CV boot.

 

PA240036.JPG

 

The Transit is for sale, Maltese import - about £10k!

 

PA240032.JPG


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#176 OFFLINE   egg

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Posted 29 October 2018 - 10:57 AM

Ok, so now updated, and there we go up to nearly a grand, and I wonder where my money goes. Anyway - consider this car 'saved' now. As long as rust doesn't kill it, or the auto box shits itself, we should be fine now until MOT until next May apart from minor consumables. Oh, the front washer fluid stinks - so that could do with a drain and flush/bleach.

 

I still wouldn't mind getting it on a ramp for some Vactan action. Still waiting on the dodgy down-pipe refund...

 

We can play cambelt roulette (non-interference) until then too, and also do the rad/coolant change after the MOT.

 

That's the plan, let's see how it plays out. This will be the WBOD.

 

Total project costs to date = £415 (purchase price + MOT and associated fixing)

Other Labour costs = £215

parts spend = £254.04

tyres spend = £120

total costs = £1005.05

Estimated value of car = £450   :-D 

 

High Priority

Entire new exhaust Done, Complete new exhaust apart from catalyst, which has a small crack...Middle and rear section £76, front down pipe £30, used replacement Lambda sensor also replaced £25, Gaskets £7
Oil and Filter change Done, Unipart oil £8, Oil Filter £2
Deal with 2 worst rust areas Partially done - sticking plaster solution, Vactan applied to 2 worst areas, Bilt Hamber wax used on end of sills and rusty wheelarch

New CV boot Done 24/10

Medium priority
Air filter change - done 17/5 (cost £5)
Pollen filter change - kinda done 16/5 (cost £11)
Fuel Filter change - done 2/6 (cost £6)
Get a spare key - done 15/9 (cost £35)
2 New Front Tyres and tracking - done 24/9 (Cost £120), 2 x Nexens at £45 + £30 for the tracking
Cambelt and aux belt (non-interference roulette)
New Rad/Coolant change

replace screws on exhaust manifold heat shield - Partially done £8.

Low priority
A general go over with the G3 scratch remover - one side done to limited effect 31/5 (cost £0)
new wiper blades - done rear wiper blade changed 31/10, fronts changed 11/11
paint wiper arms - rear wiper done 8/6 (cost zero - obviously some materials, but not worth costing!)
Bulbs for door courtesy lights - done 26/5 (cost £2.75)
Square front number plate
Refurbish/replace wheel trims

Replace GLX side badges - done 15/6 (cost £8.75)
Change gearbox oil (would be nice to do filter)
Clean/replace PCV valve - done 26/5 (cost £3.25)
Underneath rust prevention

new captive nut for side light - done 21/6 (cost £2)

Paint battery clamp

PAS fluid (oil cooling will need replacing long term - twosmoke has suggested bypassing them - and this could be done when the radiator is replaced) - done 9/6 (cost £6.99)
Soundproofing.... not going to bother, it is mainly used for town driving, not many longer runs.

Smelly (front) washer fluid - done 2/11 - flushed front fluid system and new screenwash (cost £0)


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#177 OFFLINE   egg

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Posted 02 November 2018 - 02:08 PM

So today, using my trusted pompe Chinese, I extracted the front washer fluid. Ewk.

 

thumbnail.jpg

 

Then I got fresh water - diluted some antibacterial fluid in it and refilled the reservoir, disconnected the washer pipe, and ran the pump until the fluid reservoir was empty. Did the same with diluted bleach mix.

 

Then topped up with fresh screen wash at winter concentration - and well, seems like the smell has gone.

 

If this is my last post for a while then I've got Legionnaires!!


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#178 OFFLINE   egg

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Posted 11 November 2018 - 03:49 PM

New fluid meant new wipers, yes I do need to paint the arms. Next year now...

IMG_20181111_152631.jpg
IMG_20181111_154549.jpg
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