It's Saturday, so time for more 205-related questions.
I actually got the track rod end off in the end - with the gaiter pulled back I was able to get a 16mm spanner on the flats to hold it in place, and I found my better 19mm spanner which with some serious twatting from a lump hammer was enough to get the lock nut undone, and then the TRE came out fairly easily. So the new one is on and that's all good. Fitted the new front wishbone as well.
That leaves the rear brake. The new shoes and cylinder came yesterday, and I got the old shoes out in a couple of minutes. The cylinder is a completely different story though. I can't get to the fixing bolts from the drum side as it's a semi-blind thread, so I'd have to drill them out from the backplate side, which is going to be an utter twat as access is hopeless. Another issue is that neither the brake pipe union nor the bleed nipple are going to come out - both appear to be made from a particulary ripe Camembert and rounded off as soon as any torque was applied (despite me using the correct 6.5mm 6-point socket for the nipple). Mole grips won't touch them either - they just chew into the "metal". I'm less bothered about the bleed nipple as I'm pretty sure the wheel cylinder would come out even with the nipple still in place, so I'd just have to buy a new nipple. The brake pipe union is going to be more problematic. As I see it there are a few possible options:
-Cut the brake pipe just before the union and get a bolt extractor on the union. The brake pipe is copper at that point so wouldn't be an issue for me to fit a new end and re-flare it; main concern with this method is that if I still can't get the end out I'm a bit screwed.
-Nick the stub axle and hub assembly from the other 205. I'm not sure though whether the stub axle comes out of the trailing arm easily or not (HBOL is no help here), plus that would also render the other 205 immobile.
-Rebuild the brake cylinder in situ using parts nicked from the new one. No idea how feasible this is.
-Blast the fuck out of everything with brake cleaner, then fit the new shoes and refit the drum just before going for the MOT test, and hope the leak is slow enough that it doesn't become noticeable until after the test is done. Not ideal, for obvious reasons.
-Say "fuck it" and get the garage to do it. Main issues with this are that it would be deeply annoying to fall at the last hurdle, and if the job turns out to be even more of a twat than it currently appears, the bill could go up.
Any thoughts on any of the above or any alternative suggestions gratefully received.