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#18451 OFFLINE   wuvvum

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Posted Yesterday, 06:20 PM

It's Saturday, so time for more 205-related questions.

 

 

I actually got the track rod end off in the end - with the gaiter pulled back I was able to get a 16mm spanner on the flats to hold it in place, and I found my better 19mm spanner which with some serious twatting from a lump hammer was enough to get the lock nut undone, and then the TRE came out fairly easily.  So the new one is on and that's all good.  Fitted the new front wishbone as well.

 

That leaves the rear brake.  The new shoes and cylinder came yesterday, and I got the old shoes out in a couple of minutes.  The cylinder is a completely different story though.  I can't get to the fixing bolts from the drum side as it's a semi-blind thread, so I'd have to drill them out from the backplate side, which is going to be an utter twat as access is hopeless.  Another issue is that neither the brake pipe union nor the bleed nipple are going to come out - both appear to be made from a particulary ripe Camembert and rounded off as soon as any torque was applied (despite me using the correct 6.5mm 6-point socket for the nipple).  Mole grips won't touch them either - they just chew into the "metal".  I'm less bothered about the bleed nipple as I'm pretty sure the wheel cylinder would come out even with the nipple still in place, so I'd just have to buy a new nipple.  The brake pipe union is going to be more problematic.  As I see it there are a few possible options:

 

-Cut the brake pipe just before the union and get a bolt extractor on the union.  The brake pipe is copper at that point so wouldn't be an issue for me to fit a new end and re-flare it; main concern with this method is that if I still can't get the end out I'm a bit screwed.

 

-Nick the stub axle and hub assembly from the other 205.  I'm not sure though whether the stub axle comes out of the trailing arm easily or not (HBOL is no help here), plus that would also render the other 205 immobile.

 

-Rebuild the brake cylinder in situ using parts nicked from the new one.  No idea how feasible this is.

 

-Blast the fuck out of everything with brake cleaner, then fit the new shoes and refit the drum just before going for the MOT test, and hope the leak is slow enough that it doesn't become noticeable until after the test is done.  Not ideal, for obvious reasons.

 

-Say "fuck it" and get the garage to do it.  Main issues with this are that it would be deeply annoying to fall at the last hurdle, and if the job turns out to be even more of a twat than it currently appears, the bill could go up.

 

 

Any thoughts on any of the above or any alternative suggestions gratefully received.



#18452 OFFLINE   robinmasters

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Posted Yesterday, 06:45 PM

Sounds plausible because the rolling radius of the new tyre will be different, odd tyres used to knacker the 4WD on Cavalier Turbo's back in the day.


Can't modernz with electronic traction control recognise the differing radii and adjust the drive accordingly?
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#18453 OFFLINE   666jjp

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Posted Yesterday, 07:15 PM

took your advice, bought an 02 Vectra with 56000 on the clock instead

got this home today but no manuals with it, does anyone have a set knocking about - happy to pay



#18454 ONLINE   Hooli

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Posted Yesterday, 07:19 PM

I wouldn't reuse half the wheel cylinder, the bore normally wears so your new seals won't last long.



#18455 ONLINE   Squire_Dawson

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Posted Yesterday, 07:38 PM

What are the differences between the Chevy Stovebolt and Blue Flame sixes?


Squeak, rattle and roll.

 

 

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#18456 OFFLINE   artdjones

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Posted Yesterday, 09:20 PM

It's Saturday, so time for more 205-related questions.


I actually got the track rod end off in the end - with the gaiter pulled back I was able to get a 16mm spanner on the flats to hold it in place, and I found my better 19mm spanner which with some serious twatting from a lump hammer was enough to get the lock nut undone, and then the TRE came out fairly easily. So the new one is on and that's all good. Fitted the new front wishbone as well.

That leaves the rear brake. The new shoes and cylinder came yesterday, and I got the old shoes out in a couple of minutes. The cylinder is a completely different story though. I can't get to the fixing bolts from the drum side as it's a semi-blind thread, so I'd have to drill them out from the backplate side, which is going to be an utter twat as access is hopeless. Another issue is that neither the brake pipe union nor the bleed nipple are going to come out - both appear to be made from a particulary ripe Camembert and rounded off as soon as any torque was applied (despite me using the correct 6.5mm 6-point socket for the nipple). Mole grips won't touch them either - they just chew into the "metal". I'm less bothered about the bleed nipple as I'm pretty sure the wheel cylinder would come out even with the nipple still in place, so I'd just have to buy a new nipple. The brake pipe union is going to be more problematic. As I see it there are a few possible options:

-Cut the brake pipe just before the union and get a bolt extractor on the union. The brake pipe is copper at that point so wouldn't be an issue for me to fit a new end and re-flare it; main concern with this method is that if I still can't get the end out I'm a bit screwed.

-Nick the stub axle and hub assembly from the other 205. I'm not sure though whether the stub axle comes out of the trailing arm easily or not (HBOL is no help here), plus that would also render the other 205 immobile.

-Rebuild the brake cylinder in situ using parts nicked from the new one. No idea how feasible this is.

-Blast the fuck out of everything with brake cleaner, then fit the new shoes and refit the drum just before going for the MOT test, and hope the leak is slow enough that it doesn't become noticeable until after the test is done. Not ideal, for obvious reasons.

-Say "fuck it" and get the garage to do it. Main issues with this are that it would be deeply annoying to fall at the last hurdle, and if the job turns out to be even more of a twat than it currently appears, the bill could go up.


Any thoughts on any of the above or any alternative suggestions gratefully received.


Why would you want to take the stub axle out?(It would have to be pressed out of the arm anyway).
You can cut the end of the pipe off and flare a new end on if you're sure you have enough extra length to screw in the new pipe end to the cylinder without straining the pipe.
You could chisel off the mounting screw heads of the old cylinder,but the chisel would have to be small and sharp.
Or you could take the backplate off(4 screws) and drill off the cylinder screws on the bench.
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#18457 OFFLINE   wuvvum

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Posted Yesterday, 10:45 PM

I meant to say the trailing arm assembly (soz, long day) - don't know if it can be removed from the axle or not, Haynes seems to think nuns and kittens will die if I attempt it but Haynes isn't always right.

 

Good shout on removing the backplate though - I hadn't even spotted that was a possibility, everything's such a fucking mess of muck and brake fluid in there I couldn't see the screws.  I'll give it a bash tomorrow.  I think there should be enough brake pipe to do a reflare provided I don't fuck it up too many times - the pipe looks home made and like most home made brake pipes there's a bit more tolerance than with an original steel jobbie.



#18458 OFFLINE   artdjones

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Posted Today, 06:45 AM

The trailing arm can be removed but there are a lot of things that can go wrong.

#18459 OFFLINE   steveo3002

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Posted Today, 08:07 AM

INA  car parts (cam belt kit ) are they a trusty brand or stay away?



#18460 OFFLINE   artdjones

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Posted Today, 08:16 AM

If you mean INA ,yes,they are part of Schaeffler ,which includes FAG bearings and LuK clutches.They supply a lot of oe stuff.So should be a trustworthy buy.

#18461 OFFLINE   steveo3002

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Posted Today, 08:18 AM

yeah just edited it ...INA  , so worth getting over dayco?



#18462 OFFLINE   artdjones

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Posted Today, 09:32 AM

Nothing wrong with Dayco,they do oe as well,but certainly INA are good.

#18463 OFFLINE   wuvvum

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Posted Today, 12:53 PM

What size are the bleed nipples on 205s?  It looks like M8 but the one on the old cylinder is so fantastically mullered it's hard to say for sure.



#18464 OFFLINE   Scruffy Bodger

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Posted Today, 01:52 PM

Attempt to remove a 205 bleed nipple very carefully and with a thought about method. If not it could be a real headache drilling it out afterwards or needing a new calliper if that doesn't go well.


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#18465 ONLINE   drum

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Posted Today, 03:37 PM

Do you think solder would fix this diesel fuel line temporarily? 20180520_162317.jpg


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#18466 OFFLINE   JeeExEll

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Posted Today, 03:46 PM

Is it copper?

If it is then solder will fix it no probs. Ask any plumber. Brighten the pipe up first and be careful not to restrict flow through it.
If it's steel then no.
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#18467 OFFLINE   wuvvum

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Posted Today, 03:54 PM

Bleed nipple problem solved - there was one in the box the new cylinder came in, I just hadn't spotted it.

 

Next question:  what size are the brake pipe unions for a 205 rear drum?  "Standard" size ones are too small.



#18468 OFFLINE   dave21478

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Posted Today, 05:11 PM

Do you think solder would fix this diesel fuel line temporarily? attachicon.gif20180520_162317.jpg

 

If its steel you would need to braze it. Personally, I would measure the diameter, cut it and fit a straight join compression fitting.

59afce46404eb.jpg


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#18469 ONLINE   Psycho Charlie Knobcheese

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Posted Today, 07:20 PM

Can anyone advise me if cable ties are MOT passable if used on CV boots?

Did the oil and filter on my Micra today and noticed my nearside boot is split. Only asking as I don't have the tool to tighten the clips but have a big bag of cable ties. MOT is next month and its about the only thing I can see being a problem.

 

Cheers



#18470 ONLINE   DodgeRover

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Posted Today, 07:46 PM

Split cv is a fail - no tie wrap will cure that?
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#18471 OFFLINE   wuvvum

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Posted Today, 07:50 PM

Assuming you're replacing the CV boot, cable ties should be fine as long as you tighten them right up - as long as the boot is secure and nothing is fouling or flapping about, it doesn't matter what you use to hold them in place.
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#18472 ONLINE   drum

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Posted Today, 07:50 PM

If its steel you would need to braze it. Personally, I would measure the diameter, cut it and fit a straight join compression fitting.
https://huddersfield-gas.co.uk/wp-conten...


It's a two feet length that goes from the tank to the lift pump on the DB9, so I'll just make up a new one. I need to buy some olives.
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#18473 ONLINE   Psycho Charlie Knobcheese

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Posted Today, 08:22 PM

Cheers DodgeRover and Wuvvum. I'll be changing the boot. Was just unsure as to whether cable ties would be acceptable as I had a quick google and came up with a plethora of conflicting answers.

 

Thanks again



#18474 ONLINE   bub2006

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Posted Today, 08:37 PM

The steering arm on the trike has a track rod end at top and bottom to link handlebars to the steering arm and arm to the wheel a frame. Sadly they are worn and no one knows what they are from. Is there any way of looking up parts online? The track rod ends are straight but unsure of thread. I know if I go into a motor factors with one they will look at me like I've three heads

#18475 ONLINE   Tickman

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Posted Today, 08:40 PM

It's a two feet length that goes from the tank to the lift pump on the DB9, so I'll just make up a new one. I need to buy some olives.

 

Thinks, DB9 and diesel then looks and it is drum so that explains that then!


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#18476 ONLINE   mitsisigma01

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Posted Today, 09:05 PM

If I could afford a DB9 I think I could just about stretch to a new 2ft length of pipe and a few fittings .... or gaffa tape

#18477 ONLINE   320touring

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Posted Today, 09:10 PM

If I could afford a DB9 I think I could just about stretch to a new 2ft length of pipe and a few fittings .... or gaffa tape


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