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#18421 OFFLINE   steveo3002

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Posted 16 May 2018 - 01:17 PM

if you have a welder ive seen folk wipe up the grease then weld the ball into the socket then unwind it all



#18422 OFFLINE   sierraman

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Posted 16 May 2018 - 01:18 PM

That Focus sounds rotten. Once the rear trailing arm mounts have gone its scrap.
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#18423 OFFLINE   oldcars

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Posted 16 May 2018 - 01:24 PM

when​ I fixed* mine I removed the vent and popped up through that way, i'd not want to put to much weight on the roof, if you have the option perhaps a large blanket and piece of osb or something across to spread the load?

 

 

When I did ours I laid on a sheet of kingspan dense insulation (think thick polystyrene) to spread the load and kept to where I could feel the ribs were. Use proper non setting mastic not silicon.

Got this done the other evening. Dragged the van out of the drive into the street, and got the big loft ladder down and used that. I could do half from one side and half from the other. Old seal stuff had dried out and was cracking. Cleaned all this off and cleaned the area and resealed with the correct stuff from a caravan mate. Fingers crossed. We have had dry 3 days (Scottish Summer) so when we get rain again time will tell.



#18424 ONLINE   alf892

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Posted 16 May 2018 - 03:09 PM

Anyone know of a good specialist Jag breaker?



#18425 OFFLINE   Mally

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Posted 16 May 2018 - 03:13 PM

Wuvvum, yes you are fighting against the lock washer, but it's resistance is minimal.

Get the steering turned so its on full lock i.e joint that needs removing is as far out as possible.

Check underneath if it is possible to get stilsons on the round lump.

If it sticks out far enough jack the car as high as possible and support it well.

A pit or ramp is ideal really.

You should be able to undo the rack end without disturbing the track rod end, and take the rest off afterwards. They are verrrrrry tight.

New one needs loctite and tightening well.

Edit, grips close to the rack, it is possible but not ideal to remove the ball dome and still leave the threaded bit in.


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#18426 OFFLINE   meggersdog

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Posted 16 May 2018 - 05:57 PM

Suggest me up for wheels / tyres for land rover 88" ?

 

I have a set of LWB wheels (5.5" wide?), and a set of disco 1 steel wheels (wider?). My daily disco 2 has 235/70/16 AT's that are looking a bit tired but still have plenty of tread. Can / should I bung these on the series and buy new AT's for disco 2?

 

I used to run 205/16 shonky remoulds, but I'm too old for ditch finding now.

 

Yo Kryten detective jakebullet.

 

that series came in today and it's running Avon rangemaster 7.50/16s all round.Must be quite old as the rear ones are perished.



#18427 OFFLINE   666jjp

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Posted 16 May 2018 - 07:07 PM

Oh and 666 - run a mile from that focus . It’s, like nearly all mk1 foci, is a rotter

took your advice, bought an 02 Vectra with 56000 on the clock instead


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#18428 OFFLINE   wuvvum

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Posted 16 May 2018 - 07:25 PM

/\ Billy will be along to like this post shortly.


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#18429 OFFLINE   Bren

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Posted 17 May 2018 - 08:16 AM

Audi electronic rear calipers.

New caliper or replace the motor?

#18430 OFFLINE   Slowsilver

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Posted 17 May 2018 - 09:34 AM

Electronic calipers ??!!

Whatever next?

The world has officially gone mad.

"Sigh"

 


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1999 Vauxhall Zafira 1600 "Comfort"

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#18431 OFFLINE   Slartibartfast

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Posted 17 May 2018 - 10:44 AM

Electronic calipers ??!!
Whatever next?
The world has officially gone mad.
"Sigh"


A lot of moderns have electronic parking brakes now, I assume that's what's being referred to.

#18432 OFFLINE   dozeydustman

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Posted 17 May 2018 - 02:13 PM

Confused about the fault code I've identified on the Saab. P1530 - Haynes book is packed away for house move, OBD machine said ignition timing sensor, googling says crank sensor OR pedal position sensor.


Dream shite.

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#18433 OFFLINE   artdjones

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Posted 17 May 2018 - 02:31 PM

Confused about the fault code I've identified on the Saab. P1530 - Haynes book is packed away for house move, OBD machine said ignition timing sensor, googling says crank sensor OR pedal position sensor.


DTC search says pedal sensor,but also could be the wiring between the sensor and the ECU.Worst case scenario is an ECU problem. Check the wiring first.

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#18434 OFFLINE   dozeydustman

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Posted 17 May 2018 - 04:14 PM

DTC search says pedal sensor,but also could be the wiring between the sensor and the ECU.Worst case scenario is an ECU problem. Check the wiring first.

 

 

I will do that, the car has been doing some weird things of late - trip computer keeps defaulting to 50.9mpg and 700 miles travelled, fuel gauge takes ages to register when you fill up and N/S mirror keeps adjusting itself. It'll have to wait 'til after I've moved house this weekend. If it's the ECU/SiD then that's probably going to cost more than the car.


Dream shite.

Talbot Sunbeam 1.6 - Shove-it - Viva HC - Samba - Triumph Dolly - Triumph 2000 - Avenger - Pug 205 with a suitcase engine - AEC Mammoth Major - Hillman Hunter - Allegro - another Simca would be nice as well - any 80's Peugeot - Routemaster


#18435 OFFLINE   mrbenn

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Posted 17 May 2018 - 06:43 PM

Got a head unit with a rather dicky rotary power/volume control. I suspect that it has seen the business end of a sticky drink in the past, fairly sure I cleaned some coco-cola (or similar) residue off the unit.

 

Can I spray electrical contract cleaner on/around the knob or will I damage something inside?

 

Cheers.



#18436 OFFLINE   Kiltox

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Posted 18 May 2018 - 10:18 AM

Do the May 20 MOT changes apply to Class 7 ?

Is my van going to fail it's first ever MOT on emissions? :D


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2017 17 Dacia Duster 1.6 Access
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#18437 OFFLINE   AMC Rebel

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Posted 18 May 2018 - 10:27 AM

Do the May 20 MOT changes apply to Class 7 ?

Is my van going to fail it's first ever MOT on emissions? :D

Yeah but no but.

 

Yes applies to Class 7 (or N1 in EU-speak).

 

Why would it fail? 


1994 Range Rover Classic "The Crying Pumpkin" cried off, rusty

2003 Jaaaag XJ 260K miles and counting

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1967 AMC Rebel SST convertible (superior body and originality being slowly raided for spares for the '68) Off road for at least the last 25 years

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#18438 OFFLINE   Kiltox

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Posted 18 May 2018 - 10:29 AM

My understanding is that they're making the emissions test reflect what they should actually be rather than a arbitrary threshold - I don't know how strict that makes it but I have serious doubts about the integrity of any manufacturer when it comes to modern diesels


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#18439 OFFLINE   AMC Rebel

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Posted 18 May 2018 - 11:20 AM

My understanding is that they're making the emissions test reflect what they should actually be rather than a arbitrary threshold - I don't know how strict that makes it but I have serious doubts about the integrity of any manufacturer when it comes to modern diesels

 

My understanding is for diesels that ones fitted with a dpf shouldn't have any visible smoke.  I've had diesels with and without dpf - the dpf one never had any smoke that I saw, the others did/do - but they will still pass MOT all other things being equal.


1994 Range Rover Classic "The Crying Pumpkin" cried off, rusty

2003 Jaaaag XJ 260K miles and counting

2000 Ford Mondeo Verona 1.8 pez FOR SALE Now with new As owner

2000 Ford Puma 1.7 - Roffled and now with new AS owner

1968 AMC Rebel SST convertible (working and road legal but in limp home mode)

1967 AMC Rebel SST convertible (superior body and originality being slowly raided for spares for the '68) Off road for at least the last 25 years

1956 Chevy 210 4 door hardtop - bought in 2000 and still in my garage - I even do a bit of work on it occasionally - long term project

2005 MG ZT-T awaiting completion of engine transplant of spare V6 after OMG HGF on the engine that "never has that problem"

2005 Land Rover Discovery - for long trips and moving engines 


#18440 OFFLINE   AMC Rebel

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Posted 18 May 2018 - 11:22 AM

Anyone know of a good specialist Jag breaker?

Stolen from the S-Type thread 

 

https://www.autoreservejaguar.com/


1994 Range Rover Classic "The Crying Pumpkin" cried off, rusty

2003 Jaaaag XJ 260K miles and counting

2000 Ford Mondeo Verona 1.8 pez FOR SALE Now with new As owner

2000 Ford Puma 1.7 - Roffled and now with new AS owner

1968 AMC Rebel SST convertible (working and road legal but in limp home mode)

1967 AMC Rebel SST convertible (superior body and originality being slowly raided for spares for the '68) Off road for at least the last 25 years

1956 Chevy 210 4 door hardtop - bought in 2000 and still in my garage - I even do a bit of work on it occasionally - long term project

2005 MG ZT-T awaiting completion of engine transplant of spare V6 after OMG HGF on the engine that "never has that problem"

2005 Land Rover Discovery - for long trips and moving engines 


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#18441 ONLINE   bramz7

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Posted 18 May 2018 - 11:27 AM

Possibly (and this is a big possibly) might need a hand storing something quite far up north for a short while if I purchase it. No MOT but cheap.

I'm talking round Durham way. any help appreciated.

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Outgoing

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#18442 OFFLINE   Split_Pin

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Posted 18 May 2018 - 11:42 AM

Before I condemned the engine on my Corsa last year, it had a new timing chain kit fitted (it didn't cure the knock). As such its done only a couple of hundred miles.

 

The chain on the replacement engine isn't in its first flush of youth and could do with changing perhaps over the winter. Given the low miles of the new chain, could I reuse that, together with the tensioner or is it best to just buy a new kit?



#18443 OFFLINE   catsinthewelder

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Posted 18 May 2018 - 01:49 PM

I tend to base decisions like that on cost of part vs time it takes to fit.  Could the knock have damaged it?  I would probably reuse it but I'm also a massive skinflint.


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93 Land Rover Discovery 200TDI

#18444 OFFLINE   Split_Pin

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Posted 18 May 2018 - 06:25 PM

Good point, its not a dear kit to buy.

#18445 OFFLINE   drum

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Posted 18 May 2018 - 06:37 PM

You know how you can hammer a smaller socket over a rounded bolt head? Well, can you hammer a larger Torx into a rounded Torx head?  

Bloody wheels cylinder on daughter's polo so no room. 


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#18446 OFFLINE   cort1977

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Posted 18 May 2018 - 07:41 PM

Probably, I hammered an imperial hex in to a rounded metric hex head bolt the other day.
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#18447 OFFLINE   catsinthewelder

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Posted 18 May 2018 - 08:59 PM

I find Torx invaluble for hammering into rounded hex


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94 Peugeot 405 Estate
93 Land Rover Discovery 200TDI

#18448 OFFLINE   burraston2006

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Posted 19 May 2018 - 05:26 AM

A mate has just bought a new Aldi Q3 Quattro (more money than sense) and Aldi have told him that if you need a new tyre you have to change both tyres ion the same axle. Is this a load of bullocks? Never heard this before, but I'm asking as I've just put a Whang King Ditch Finder Special on my Rangie P38 and it sounds like the diff is whinging/ humming like a fxxked.

#18449 OFFLINE   Jazoli

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Posted 19 May 2018 - 07:12 AM

A mate has just bought a new Aldi Q3 Quattro (more money than sense) and Aldi have told him that if you need a new tyre you have to change both tyres ion the same axle. Is this a load of bullocks? Never heard this before, but I'm asking as I've just put a Whang King Ditch Finder Special on my Rangie P38 and it sounds like the diff is whinging/ humming like a fxxked.

Sounds plausible because the rolling radius of the new tyre will be different, odd tyres used to knacker the 4WD on Cavalier Turbo's back in the day.
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sigs are shit, wgaf?


#18450 OFFLINE   wuvvum

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Posted 19 May 2018 - 06:20 PM

It's Saturday, so time for more 205-related questions.

 

 

I actually got the track rod end off in the end - with the gaiter pulled back I was able to get a 16mm spanner on the flats to hold it in place, and I found my better 19mm spanner which with some serious twatting from a lump hammer was enough to get the lock nut undone, and then the TRE came out fairly easily.  So the new one is on and that's all good.  Fitted the new front wishbone as well.

 

That leaves the rear brake.  The new shoes and cylinder came yesterday, and I got the old shoes out in a couple of minutes.  The cylinder is a completely different story though.  I can't get to the fixing bolts from the drum side as it's a semi-blind thread, so I'd have to drill them out from the backplate side, which is going to be an utter twat as access is hopeless.  Another issue is that neither the brake pipe union nor the bleed nipple are going to come out - both appear to be made from a particulary ripe Camembert and rounded off as soon as any torque was applied (despite me using the correct 6.5mm 6-point socket for the nipple).  Mole grips won't touch them either - they just chew into the "metal".  I'm less bothered about the bleed nipple as I'm pretty sure the wheel cylinder would come out even with the nipple still in place, so I'd just have to buy a new nipple.  The brake pipe union is going to be more problematic.  As I see it there are a few possible options:

 

-Cut the brake pipe just before the union and get a bolt extractor on the union.  The brake pipe is copper at that point so wouldn't be an issue for me to fit a new end and re-flare it; main concern with this method is that if I still can't get the end out I'm a bit screwed.

 

-Nick the stub axle and hub assembly from the other 205.  I'm not sure though whether the stub axle comes out of the trailing arm easily or not (HBOL is no help here), plus that would also render the other 205 immobile.

 

-Rebuild the brake cylinder in situ using parts nicked from the new one.  No idea how feasible this is.

 

-Blast the fuck out of everything with brake cleaner, then fit the new shoes and refit the drum just before going for the MOT test, and hope the leak is slow enough that it doesn't become noticeable until after the test is done.  Not ideal, for obvious reasons.

 

-Say "fuck it" and get the garage to do it.  Main issues with this are that it would be deeply annoying to fall at the last hurdle, and if the job turns out to be even more of a twat than it currently appears, the bill could go up.

 

 

Any thoughts on any of the above or any alternative suggestions gratefully received.






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