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Sources of "Own brand" oil


PiperCub

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Brand Marketing it is dear chaps, like Badge Enginnering by BMC of the 60's, you could have an Austin Cambridge, Morris Oxford, Wolseley 16/60, Riley 4/72 and MG Magnette. They all rolled out the same factory and had the same floorpan. You chose your brand on a mix of loyalty or engine tuning spec or interior trim. Years later Ford turned it into Base, L, Gl, GLX, GLXS and Gina

 

Oil comes from 'blenders' and 'packers'. Beyond the blenders are the base suppliers. Take your chosen brand, trace it back to a handful of blenders and trace it back to even less base suppliers if you really CBA.

 

The important bit is the API ratings etc etc. Beyond the specs you are into the debate as to whether Tesco baked beans are better than Sainsbury's and the same as Morrisons but not the same as co-op or a.n other.

 

I've used Unipart Oil of all grades from 20W50 to 10W40 to 15W40 to the range of 5W/30's since about 1982.

 

Only recently stopped using it because one of our latest cars requires the very high spec low sulphur Ford Spec and Unipart don't package to that spec which is one of the reasons for their demise, not keeping up with the market. They do pack the Vauxhall Dexos 2 spec.

 

Seeing the pictures of Unipart Oil in 'Penny Pinchers' tells me it is pretty much game over and the Unipart Brand on Oil will soon be gone. AC Delco, Motorcraft, Motaquip and Unipart, all shadows of their former self, like Lockheed, Girling, Borg and Beck, Laycock, Moprod, Supra, QH, Powertrain, GKN, Veco and and and, the brands of the 70's 80's and 90's have given way to newcomers.

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Have always used Triple QX fully synth in my Mondeo, which is the only car I've ever driven far enough to do more than one oil change. It burns or possibly leaks a moderate amount of it but the engine was still in rude health the last time I drove it. I'm firmly in the "use cheaper oil and change it more often" camp, though I'd qualify that by saying that I always buy the cheapest fully synth as it's barely more expensive than "part synthetic", which I gather in practice means "about 10-15% synth".

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I've traditionally used Triple QX Oils due to the price and value. Never once had an issue and I do twice yearly oil changes. So long as it's the correct spec, I've got no qualms. I know that Fuchs and Millers tend to be a little more "high end" but, given the price difference, not enough for me to pay the extra.

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I did 80k miles in 3 years in a Nissan Almera 1.4 and that always got the ECP 10w/40 semi for that. Oil change every 6 months/10k on that car. Engine was perfectly fine and would rev cleanly up to the top of the range when it got scrapped for having basically everything else broken.

 

I've used whatever is on offer at ECP in the Saab and done 50k so far. Mix of QQQX, some petronas stuff and Adsa GM branded stuff. Again, touch wood the engine (and turbo specifically) seem fine, and its on 150k now.

 

Fuchs Titan used to be very cheap in ECP years back and I used lots of that in various vehicles.

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I'm running a long term experiment in one of our Shitters, a 2003 MGZR Kettle Series. I did the OMGHGF at 82,000 RM. Didn't change the Oil and Filter until i knew the HG was a success. We had no mixing of oil and coolant, just coolant loss into a cylinder.

 

Once the HGF was proven to be a success, the it was treated to an Oil and Filter change using Asha's finest as that was what I had to hand. The car has had a hard life and I am of the opinion that before the HG let go big time, the coolant loss into a cylinder had resulted in some bore wash.

 

Always a bit of a plume on startup and about 1000 miles per litre. On the basis that at that consumption rate the oil gets replenished every 5000 miles (well sort of before anyone does some scientific calculation that says x% always remains, you get my drift). It has never had an oil change in the last 40,000 miles. Oil plume on startup has long since stopped and oil consumption gradually reduces, presumably because it is getting a bit carboned up. I really ought to change the Oil Filter though. I have always believed in regular oil and Filter changes and still practice that, except in my 'long term test'

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All the above - thanks, as I said, it was more a question of interest by me than anything deeper.

 

I'm a bit of a snob where oil (etc) is concerned when it comes to my keepers and always use 'Branded' oils, usually mainly Comma & Castrol. That's just my personal hang up as I like to think they are better even if the reality is not so clear cut! I also prefer as many do on here, to change more often than necessary.

 

My logic for this is two-fold: Firstly oil is cheaper than bearings and secondly, if I trash a motor or g/box etc when I'm using decent 'branded' oils then it's a case of <insert expletives> but shit happens, but if I feel I've cheaped out and the same thing happens then I'd be really mad at myself for doing this (even if in reality it may not have made much/any difference). 

 

For hacks/shite, I'm alot less fussy, ultimately as Issac says, it's the spec/API/SAE ratings that matter the most. And for the record, I used Unipart oils in cars, vans, bikes for years with no issues at all. 

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Unipart are a massive outfit. Often the stuff in the box will be OE sourced too..........not sure they make anything automotive anymore.

 

This whole thing applies to loads of parts.........when you hear folk buying 'main dealer parts cos they are better' they are usually kidding themselves. Most manufacturers are only really assemblers.

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Unipart are a massive outfit. Often the stuff in the box will be OE sourced too..........not sure they make anything automotive anymore.

 

This whole thing applies to loads of parts.........when you hear folk buying 'main dealer parts cos they are better' they are usually kidding themselves. Most manufacturers are only really assemblers.

 

I was at VW in Stourbridge recently to get some fresh plates for the Passat. They have a book on the desk, which logs what parts they receive/send back to Euro's. This bearing in mind, that they are meant to be servicing/repairing cars with "VW only" parts. I even saw a mechanic take a set of Pagid brake pads and discs and pop them onto a Golf that was in. People these days seem to baulk at the thought of buying quality parts yourself and believe dealer only is the way to go. If you want to pay almost triple the price for a perceived "piece of mind", you must really be paranoid.

Quantum oils used to be castrol  up until about a year ago now they are Fuchs

 

Quantum is expensive at VW but everywhere else you're able to get it at virtually half price. Typical dealers making huge mark ups.

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Every 10000 miles or so, the Blingo gets whatever oil Tame Mechanic believes appropriate.  Pulls like a fish and I never have to top it up.  The service interval is officially 12500 but, like me, it's getting on a bit now.

 

Every 3500 to 6000 intervals for the diesel Borat - usually Mobil.

 

Every 3500 to 4000 intervals for any other old petrol car.

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Quantum oils used to be castrol  up until about a year ago now they are Fuchs

When Quantum came out the oil was Mobil and Esso. When longlife servicing came in Castrol got the contract as at the time their oil was used on the production line. Quantum is  a VW uk brand or was until I left working for VW group.

 

Many dealers use oe parts from euro and the like to retain customer business and offer a non franchise part to give the customer the option of two repair estimates.

 

Also when service parts are in short supply you can often get the same part from a factor when not available from the manafacturer.  Had to do it many times.

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STP are still alive according to Wiki : https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/STP_(motor_oil_company)

 

Here's one I haven't seen for a long time. I think every car my family owned was fed with this in the sixties and seventies. Probably because Graham Hill endorsed it

post-3538-0-97509000-1521823356_thumb.jpg

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Talking of oil brands, my GS takes 4l to fill from empty. I usually buy whatever brand is cheapest at the time in 5l containers. It never needs topped up between changes so I have a number of them with a lite review still in them.

I now think I have enough saved up to do a full change with the mixed dregs.

 

I don't think mixing brands will do any harm.

 

I have saved halfords, total & shell. All same grade.

 

Penny pinching at its best!

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I wouldn't be too worried if it's all the right spec. I might not mix 20/50, Turbodiesel and 0/30 in my brand new supercar though!

 

I have a litre of Total 5/30 in the garage, that'll be going in to the daily with some Halfords 5/30 at the next change.

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I did know a car that was used around London for ages  after standing for a few years , oil was like tar , then it had  a double  oil and filter change , then did some 30 k before being looked at again  , also carried out a cam belt roulette at the same time ......    and did about twice the time and mileage on a belt ...

 

just use any oil as long as its wet and does not smell of chips ?

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When I (steve) took the sump off the range rover the oil was like tar in the bottom, probably explains why it knocked, a guy at work rolled in one day with a oil leak on his 53 plate fiesta petrol, got john the maintenance guy to take a look, the filter had rusted through, he'd had it 6 years at that point

 

when did you last have it serviced

 

i've never had it serviced

 

what never

 

no it just gets a MOT every year and if it needs something they fit it

 

even then all they did was fit a new filter and top it up, he ran it for another 3 years like that until one day he came in and said to john it won't go

 

john got in it and it had almost no clutch, slipping like fuck so the guy nursed it to the garage and PX'd it that night

 

That car ran for 9 years on whatever oil was in it when he bought it

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When I (steve) took the sump off the range rover the oil was like tar in the bottom, probably explains why it knocked, a guy at work rolled in one day with a oil leak on his 53 plate fiesta petrol, got john the maintenance guy to take a look, the filter had rusted through, he'd had it 6 years at that point

 

when did you last have it serviced

 

i've never had it serviced

 

what never

 

no it just gets a MOT every year and if it needs something they fit it

 

even then all they did was fit a new filter and top it up, he ran it for another 3 years like that until one day he came in and said to john it won't go

 

john got in it and it had almost no clutch, slipping like fuck so the guy nursed it to the garage and PX'd it that night

 

That car ran for 9 years on whatever oil was in it when he bought it

 

Worryingly, That is a very common thing these days according to friends in the trade!

 

As said, an MoT pass solves everything.......

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