rainagain Posted October 31, 2018 Author Share Posted October 31, 2018 With my bangin' choonz sorted I turned my attention to lower priority fixing like the back brakes. The garage who did the MOT told me it had only scrapped through on the brakes all round. From the front the discs didn't look too bad Everything came apart without too much hammering/swearing The old discs were kackered Lacquer Peel, richardthestag and Aston Martin 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rainagain Posted October 31, 2018 Author Share Posted October 31, 2018 I did well with my replacement discs as I saw someone on Gumtree selling a full set that had been recently fitted to a 307 with pads for £20. The front discs were no good being for the petrol model but the rear discs fitted perfectly and were like new. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rainagain Posted October 31, 2018 Author Share Posted October 31, 2018 After changing the rear discs I was have having problems with them dragging. I first looked at the hand brake cable, it was too tight so the arms on the calipers couldn't return properly. Not sure if the left cable has stretched or the right cable is wrong???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rainagain Posted October 31, 2018 Author Share Posted October 31, 2018 However even with the cable loosened off the arms wouldn't return by themselves, I found these 'helper' springs on ebay and fitted them. I still think there is a problem with one of the cables but the hand brake works well and nothing drags Remspoor 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rainagain Posted December 1, 2018 Author Share Posted December 1, 2018 hi guys I'm really stuck, I'm in the middle of changing the timing belt, I managed to get the crank pulley loosened using the starter motor technique then my lidl air impact gun was slowly undoing it. However it has now stuck and the impact gun is doing nothing and neither is using the starter motor. Is there any one near Dunfermline that can lend me an electric impact gun? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamworthbay Posted December 1, 2018 Share Posted December 1, 2018 Shame you aren’t closer I have one here you would be welcome to borrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rainagain Posted December 1, 2018 Author Share Posted December 1, 2018 Thanks for the offer trying a heat gun right now as I think it’s thread lock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rainagain Posted December 1, 2018 Author Share Posted December 1, 2018 Heat gun has only gone and done it! Don't I feel pissed off having wasted over an hour trying to remove one bolt Lacquer Peel, richardthestag and Dirk Diggler 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Posted December 1, 2018 Share Posted December 1, 2018 I have a 450Nm Makita gun but it sounds as if you don't need it any more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rainagain Posted December 1, 2018 Author Share Posted December 1, 2018 All good now thanks just trying to find tdc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rainagain Posted December 1, 2018 Author Share Posted December 1, 2018 Autoshite massive opinion, does it look like my water pump is leaking Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rainagain Posted December 1, 2018 Author Share Posted December 1, 2018 Pic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Posted December 2, 2018 Share Posted December 2, 2018 However even with the cable loosened off the arms wouldn't return by themselves, I found these 'helper' springs on ebay and fitted them. I still think there is a problem with one of the cables but the hand brake works well and nothing drags When we had C5s we had an MOT fail for the handbrake binding. It soon became clear that there was just a little too much friction in the cable. Replacing the cable involved dropping the exhaust and then the undertray/heat shield that covered most of the underside of the car- as well as paying a king's ransom for the new cables of course. I got a spare return spring from the opposite side and fitted it with the standard spring. Then the other C5 had the same issue but my bodge wasn't quite enough this time, so I raided my box of small coil springs and fitted one around the end of the cable, in addition to the doubled up standard springs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rainagain Posted February 1, 2019 Author Share Posted February 1, 2019 I thought I'd add some more pics of my timing belt change in case they are of use to anyone. Firstly access is a bit tight, so ratchet spanners are a godsend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rainagain Posted February 1, 2019 Author Share Posted February 1, 2019 Once I'd removed the arch liner for access I found some grot which I treated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rainagain Posted February 1, 2019 Author Share Posted February 1, 2019 You can see where the oil has been leaking out the knackered oil seal. Lacquer Peel 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rainagain Posted February 1, 2019 Author Share Posted February 1, 2019 After a bit of messing around and having to screw a self tapper into the seal, I managed to get the old one out. And the new one installed Lacquer Peel 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rainagain Posted February 1, 2019 Author Share Posted February 1, 2019 I used the method I always use of marking the old belt and the pulleys and then transferring the marks over to the new belt. Setting the tension was a bit hit or miss as there's no tension indicator you just have to go for about half a twist on the top run, this took a little bit of messing around to achieve. Getting the timing belt covers on and off was a nightmare, I ended up removing the brake fluid reservoir and the scuttle trim at the bottom of the windscreen. When this is off you have to be careful as it's easy to crack the windscreen. Looks like the last person who changed the timing belt lost their rag with the covers as one of them was cracked and had mounting lugs at the rear snapped off. Lacquer Peel 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rainagain Posted February 1, 2019 Author Share Posted February 1, 2019 The top of the engine was always a bit of an oily mess so I gave it good clean I can now see where the oil is leaking from, does anyone know if I can remove and rejoin this without disturbing the camshaft? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rainagain Posted February 1, 2019 Author Share Posted February 1, 2019 I've just found this, looks like my leak is between 17 and 18, as it's just seeping I think I'll leave it. Lacquer Peel 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimbob McGregor Posted February 1, 2019 Share Posted February 1, 2019 Did you change the water pump? In my experience, 90% of these are weeping grease past their knackered seals and most of the remaining 10% are ‘notchy’ or getting squeaky! Lately Gates full kits with tensioner, pulleys and water pump have been £81.40 at my factors (and usually delivered to me within the hour which is great!). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rainagain Posted February 1, 2019 Author Share Posted February 1, 2019 Did you change the water pump? In my experience, 90% of these are weeping grease past their knackered seals and most of the remaining 10% are ‘notchy’ or getting squeaky! Lately Gates full kits with tensioner, pulleys and water pump have been £81.40 at my factors (and usually delivered to me within the hour which is great!). I did give it a spin and it felt ok, I'm still not sure if the marks on it are from water leaking or not. Since changing the thermostat back in March I've had to top the coolant up from the min-max mark twice so it's only losing a tiny bit. I got the timing belt kit (Ina) and the crankshaft oil seal for £54 delivered from carparts4less Lacquer Peel 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommotech Posted February 1, 2019 Share Posted February 1, 2019 Be careful, I don't think you've got enough tension on the belt. PSA have a special tool for setting the belt tension, see the process below; Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rainagain Posted February 1, 2019 Author Share Posted February 1, 2019 in an ideal world I would have used a SEEM tool but I don't have one and I didn't think it was worth forking out for something I'd use only a couple of times. Looking on the Peugeot forums it seems half a turn on the top run is about right, which is what I went for. I surprised it doesn't have a tension indicator like all the other timing belts I've changed over the years, it makes life so much easier. The actual proper process is quite lengthy with multiple adjustments of the tension then rotating the engine then adjusting the tension again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommotech Posted February 1, 2019 Share Posted February 1, 2019 Be thankful you don't have the later engine, where the adjustment is made on the crank pulley. The woodruff key slot is elongated so they could reduce costs and have a solid cam sprocket, that really is a lengthy procedure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rainagain Posted February 1, 2019 Author Share Posted February 1, 2019 Be thankful you don't have the later engine, where the adjustment is made on the crank pulley. The woodruff key slot is elongated so they could reduce costs and have a solid cam sprocket, that really is a lengthy procedure.Yep that's what I had, I stuck a drill bit in the slot to set it up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Remspoor Posted February 2, 2019 Share Posted February 2, 2019 Be careful, I don't think you've got enough tension on the belt. PSA have a special tool for setting the belt tension, see the process below; HDI_Belt1.JPGHDI_Belt2.JPGHDI_Belt3.JPGHDI_Belt4.JPGHDI_Belt5.JPG Hope this helps.Image1: If pegging is impossible...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rainagain Posted February 15, 2019 Author Share Posted February 15, 2019 I'd noticed I was getting vibration in the car when idling and and the engine was rocking when you blipped the throttle. The top mount looked ok and I have only recently changed the bottom mount which suggested the gearbox mount was knackered. Changing this involved removing the air filter box The battery And the battery tray which has one annoying bolt inside the wheel arch which means you have to take the wheel arch liner out to get to it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rainagain Posted February 15, 2019 Author Share Posted February 15, 2019 Then it was case of the old one out And the new one in stephen01 and Lacquer Peel 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rainagain Posted February 22, 2019 Author Share Posted February 22, 2019 However changing the gearbox mount did nothing to help with the vibration, I had a look under the car and found this Yep my new bush had failed rather catastrophically Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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