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307SW FIN :(


rainagain

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With my bangin' choonz sorted I turned my attention to lower priority fixing like the back brakes. The garage who did the MOT told me it had only scrapped through on the brakes all round. From the front the discs didn't look too bad

 

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Everything came apart without too much hammering/swearing

 

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The old discs were kackered

 

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  • 1 month later...

hi guys I'm really stuck, I'm in the middle of changing the timing belt, I managed to get the crank pulley loosened using the starter motor technique then my lidl air impact gun was slowly undoing it. However it has now stuck and the impact gun is doing nothing and neither is using the starter motor. Is there any one near Dunfermline that can lend me an electric impact gun?

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However even with the cable loosened off the arms wouldn't return by themselves, I found these 'helper' springs on ebay and fitted them. I still think there is a problem with one of the cables but the hand brake works well and nothing drags

 

When we had C5s we had an MOT fail for the handbrake binding. It soon became clear that there was just a little too much friction in the cable. Replacing the cable involved dropping the exhaust and then the undertray/heat shield that covered most of the underside of the car- as well as paying a king's ransom for the new cables of course. I got a spare return spring from the opposite side and fitted it with the standard spring.

 

Then the other C5 had the same issue but my bodge wasn't quite enough this time, so I raided my box of small coil springs and fitted one around the end of the cable, in addition to the doubled up standard springs.

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  • 1 month later...

I used the method I always use of marking the old belt and the pulleys and then transferring the marks over to the new belt. Setting the tension was a bit hit or miss as there's no tension indicator you just have to go for about half a twist on the top run, this took a little bit of messing around to achieve. Getting the timing belt covers on and off was a nightmare, I ended up removing the brake fluid reservoir and the scuttle trim at the bottom of the windscreen. When this is off you have to be careful as it's easy to crack the windscreen. Looks like the last person who changed the timing belt lost their rag with the covers as one of them was cracked and had mounting lugs at the rear snapped off.

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Did you change the water pump? In my experience, 90% of these are weeping grease past their knackered seals and most of the remaining 10% are ‘notchy’ or getting squeaky!

 

Lately Gates full kits with tensioner, pulleys and water pump have been £81.40 at my factors (and usually delivered to me within the hour which is great!).

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Did you change the water pump? In my experience, 90% of these are weeping grease past their knackered seals and most of the remaining 10% are ‘notchy’ or getting squeaky!

 

Lately Gates full kits with tensioner, pulleys and water pump have been £81.40 at my factors (and usually delivered to me within the hour which is great!).

 

I did give it a spin and it felt ok, I'm still not sure if the marks on it are from water leaking or not. Since changing the thermostat back in March I've had to top the coolant up from the min-max mark twice so it's only losing a tiny bit. 

 

I got the timing belt kit (Ina) and the crankshaft oil seal for £54 delivered from carparts4less

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in an ideal world I would have used a SEEM tool but I don't have one and I didn't think it was worth forking out for something I'd use only a couple of times. Looking on the Peugeot forums it seems half a turn on the top run is about right, which is what I went for. I surprised it doesn't have a tension indicator like all the other timing belts I've changed over the years, it makes life so much easier. The actual proper process is quite lengthy with multiple adjustments of the tension then rotating the engine then adjusting the tension again.

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Be thankful you don't have the later engine, where the adjustment is made on the crank pulley. The woodruff key slot is elongated so they could reduce costs and have a solid cam sprocket, that really is a lengthy procedure.

Yep that's what I had, I stuck a drill bit in the slot to set it up 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I'd noticed I was getting vibration in the car when idling and and the engine was rocking when you blipped the throttle. The top mount looked ok and I have only recently changed the bottom mount which suggested the gearbox mount was knackered. 

 

Changing this involved removing the air filter box

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The battery

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And the battery tray which has one annoying bolt inside the wheel arch which means you have to take the wheel arch liner out to get to it

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