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320Touring's Citroen GSA. Boom, back in the room (unit) 11/07/2021


320touring

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If the damping valve's central hole lies flush with the surface it enters/exits, bevelling it with a 3-4mm drill bit makes a considerable comfort improvement to s/low-displacement suspension movements (ie lower speeds on smoother roads). I used a splodge of grease and drilled with the sphere upside down to help prevent any swarf ingress.

 

The spheres sold today are a bit of a poor imitation of the originals in some respects; huge care was taken back then to smooth low speed fluid movements to make the ride as perfect as possible, this entry/exit point had its own little bell mouth to prevent turbulent flow to improve low speed ride smoothness.

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If the damping valve's central hole lies flush with the surface it enters/exits, bevelling it with a 3-4mm drill bit makes a considerable comfort improvement to s/low-displacement suspension movements (ie lower speeds on smoother roads). I used a splodge of grease and drilled with the sphere upside down to help prevent any swarf ingress.

 

The spheres sold today are a bit of a poor imitation of the originals in some respects; huge care was taken back then to smooth low speed fluid movements to make the ride as perfect as possible, this entry/exit point had its own little bell mouth to prevent turbulent flow to improve low speed ride smoothness.

Excellent knowledge, much appreciated.

 

I ordered spheres from sphereshop on recommendation from Mr Citroen on here - I helped him replace the rears on his GS (the fronts already having been done).

 

The ride was sublime.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Looky what's here!

 

post-17572-0-14723400-1544895971_thumb.jpeg

 

Front and rear spheres! ( My brother "joked" that it stands for "It's Fuckin Honkin, Son" as a description of how much fun* the job is likely to be)

 

I have my 5L of LHM too , so just a case of getting space to gitter dun (and likely a day of prep /skoosh everything with REMONSTRATING fluid..)

 

Expect an update in the next couple of weeks:)

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  • 2 weeks later...

The chaps at Tartan Tarmac had their end of year meet today - a ticketed affair, with inclusive breakfast..

 

I managed to secure two tickets so my brother and I could attend!

 

post-17572-0-97381000-1546189666_thumb.jpg

 

There was quite the selection present - I'll stick up some pics in the spotted thread.

 

In the meantime, marvel at this composition from one of the attendees - the GSA makes an appearance:)

 

post-17572-0-16201200-1546189788_thumb.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just had this arrive:

 

post-17572-0-42276800-1547681405_thumb.jpg

 

post-17572-0-27194800-1547681444_thumb.jpg

Mmmm shiny timing belt kit:)

 

Also have the LHM and spheres in stock.

 

However, I've been made aware that :

 

1. If the LHM is humped, It's probably wise to flush the system (the LHM is black!)

 

2. I should probably do the Hydraulic pump gaiter at the same time as the belts - as replacing it requires another strip down.

 

So I think revised plan is swap LHM for flush (hydraurincage) and get the pump gaiter ordered up.

 

Then run the flush for a bit before starting on the sphere swap

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I'm not sure what the LHM filters are like on a GSA, but give them a good clean when you drain the old LHM out, and I would be surprised if you have to do it again before the 4000 miles is up. Bit of petrol and they'll be like new.

Yup, all part of the drain and flush plan:)

 

With the added bonus that the contaminated petrol can go into the Merc:)

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Planning to put Hydraflush in the GSA today. (Managed to leave the Haynes book of lies at the house!)

 

Trying to depressurised the system - have undone this bolt :

 

post-17572-0-50532500-1547897516_thumb.jpg

 

But car is not dropping.

 

Can anyone advise if I'm missing something/the correct procedure please?

 

Thanks

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And don't undo it too far! A turn and a half is enough, any bother re-pressuring the system (only happens once in a blue moon) with an empty HP pump which isn't priming, have the engine running and turn it to and fro. Failing that, fill the supply line with LHM.

Smashing cheers

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Well that was an exciting day!

 

First time I've really done any LHM type work on the GSA, and removing the tank meant it was immobilised..

 

First off, it was time to get the car as low as possible - this maximises the volume of LHM in the tank.

 

Initial sorties were poor.

We opened the depressurising bolt (12mm) next to the sphere approx 1 turn.

 

post-17572-0-33369100-1547926537_thumb.jpg

 

Nothing happened.

 

We got the back down using the brake pedal but the front was stubborn!

 

I posted here, and on the G section Facebook page asking for advice. I also called Mr Citroen of this parish.

 

Between a course of G section members and Mr Citroen, we worked out that there is a line on the subframe that allows the fluid to return to the tank.

 

This is the bugger (11mm nut at the end of the t - piece/line splitter on the subframe)

 

post-17572-0-45177200-1547926826_thumb.jpg

 

Opening this results in a fairly rapid drop, so easy does it!

 

Then it is time to remove the LHM! PELA to the rescue.

 

post-17572-0-00661900-1547927188_thumb.jpg

 

As you can see, the LHM is fuckernated.

 

post-17572-0-96493400-1547927269_thumb.jpg

 

Removing the tank was simple.

 

This metal bar

 

post-17572-0-11332700-1547927170_thumb.jpg

 

Unclips under the tank and pulls out this locating hole

 

post-17572-0-61068100-1547927376_thumb.jpg

post-17572-0-16215600-1547927460_thumb.jpg

 

This leaves the tank loose, and able to be moved. The filter housing can be pulled out and the filters removed.

 

post-17572-0-13327100-1547927580_thumb.jpg

post-17572-0-77473900-1547927618_thumb.jpgpost-17572-0-23744200-1547927639_thumb.jpg

 

And the LHM was decanted for processing* (aka filtering and sticking in the Merc tank)

 

post-17572-0-29800900-1547927729_thumb.jpg

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Then it was time to do some cleaning..

 

post-17572-0-27282300-1547927941_thumb.jpg

 

The outside of the tank was minging - it responded well to some hot water and shampoo

 

post-17572-0-36850200-1547928013_thumb.jpg

 

The inside was attacked with various cleaning accoutrements. It was filthy.

 

post-17572-0-15338600-1547928066_thumb.jpgpost-17572-0-51239400-1547928090_thumb.jpg

 

Eventually we had a clean tank ready for drying.

 

post-17572-0-93210800-1547928144_thumb.jpg

 

and the filters were properly cleaned out.

 

post-17572-0-95355800-1547928210_thumb.jpg

 

Everything was moved in front of a fan heater to dry out properly.

 

Once dry, the filters and tank were refitted

 

post-17572-0-57102000-1547928404_thumb.jpg

 

Looks good, eh?

 

Lastly, it was time to refill the system with flush (I call it Hydracarnage;)

 

post-17572-0-41731900-1547928313_thumb.jpg

post-17572-0-27726800-1547928338_thumb.jpgpost-17572-0-21722000-1547928521_thumb.jpg

 

Some citrobatics later, and it was time for a short test drive.

 

The brakes felt fine and the suspension stayed up, no red lights on the dash.

 

We left it whilst doing other things, and it had stayed up ok, with stop light going out after starting.

 

We double checked the 11mm and 12mm nut and bolt, then my brother drove it home.

 

It seems to be driving fine, and now we just need to do some miles to get the flush completed!

 

All in all, it was fairly simple and straightforward - a nice experience!

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