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Range Rover P45? - it's hot.


drum

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What is the problem with just doing one head? I know literally nothing about these engines but don't see a problem.... No cam timing to be altered, any thickness lost from skimming would surely be accounted for by tappets whether manual or hydraulic... Does the tiny increase in compression affect anything?

Or is it the case that they both need done because specialists say so?

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Sorry to inject a dose of reality into the conversation, but I doubt a head skim will do the job. Bigger bore Rover V8 engine rarely suffers from HGF but very often suffers from liner drop. A set of top hat liners, plus head skim plus reassembly will leave a bullet proof engine, but not cheap. A secondhand engine will be cheaper, but may suffer the same failure in the near future, unless you can find a used unit that already has the top hat liners, but that will be more expensive, of course.

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Steel Seal. 

 

imho fucking snake oil or I am ".5%" who had a worse than expected result. plus a bunged up rad and heater matrix. hgf still blown

 

got in touch to say didnt work and exercise no quibble refund and had to just through fiery hoops naked before I ended up with a resolute nope!!

 

oh and 4.6litres will need three bottles £90 worth of agro if you ask me.

 

35% of reviewers on amazon gave it 1 star. hardly glowing.

 

47% said it works or they got a refund.

 

not bad for guaranteed 99.5%

 

skimming heads is a must, however bugger all to strip it down and assess the situation. slipped liner is dead easy to see. check with a flat edge and feeler gauge, the liner should be bang on flush with the surface of the head. any gap at all is fucked

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those plugs not saying HGF though??

 

I'd be checking thermostat and carefully checking temps at top and bottom stubs on rad

 

I don't like those sniff tests really - too sensitive by far.

Cylinder leakage test will show if it has combustion chamber to coolant leakage much more reliably.

 

I've always liked to clutch at straws and people do jump to 'expected' faults far too easily when it isn't their money

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interestingly a lot of the one stars are k series

 

I poured direct into the top of the rad, there was no thermostat.

 

it didnt take long to start fizzing out of the expansion cap but I carried on.

 

I ended up having to replace the head gaskets. v8 naturally. steel seal wanted before and after garage reports stating condition of internals etc. fuck that to get £70 back so they kept my money and I ended up iritated. Glad it worked for you, seems to have a 50/50 ratio success rate.

 

anyway 2 years later and abnormally hot run it overheated again whereupon I found all this shit blocking the thermostat side of the rad.

 

post-3439-0-10224200-1519918523_thumb.jpg

 

post-3439-0-68284700-1519918565_thumb.jpg

 

someone on here said no not turkish delight but steel seal.

 

 

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I'm almost scared to say it but i poured a bottle of steel seal in the hose that goes into the top of the engine. Topped up the coolant and took it for a test drive.

post-5582-0-83736900-1519919233_thumb.jpg

 

The heater blew hot and the temp gauge sat in the middle.

post-5582-0-93250000-1519919285_thumb.jpg

 

post-5582-0-80086100-1519919340_thumb.jpg

 

After half an hour the heater cooled down. The temp gauge still reading normal.post-5582-0-53294200-1519919530_thumb.jpg

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fucking awesome!!

 

are you doing anything with the waterpump? or leaving it as is?

I don't think it's fixed. Why is the heater blowing cold? Haven't ventured more than half a mile from home and when the heater cooled down I stopped after yesterday's ftp.

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the plugs could be recent, nasty fuel map on the range rovers makes them run very lean at certain rev ranges. this is what causes all the problems according to some v8 speshaleests. LPG fuel map is fine on mine, fitted for 130k miles no and still working fine

 

stick the fouled plug into the shinest plug hole and try again. give it a good run now that you can :D

 

to test for issues when buying anything with a rover v8.

 

start up from cold, any misfiring triggers my sphincter early warning system.

 

Let it warm up while checking the top rad hose. if it warms slowly and gently chances are thermostat is out. if it warms up quick and top hose still cold thermostat is busted. 

 

If the top hose gets hard but is still cold then hgf/liner issues / whatever combustion is forcing gases into the cooling system.

 

BTW single point LPG systems separate cooling system and very high pressure gas in liquid form. if the evaporator fails then the cooling system will pressurise stupidly quickly as soon as the lpg solenoids open.

 

If all appears well and the top hose is firm, hot but can still be squeezed then all would appear ok. next step is to switch off and I should be able to loosen the expansion cap half a turn maybe a couple of mins after turning off with a slight hiss. water pissing out as you start to loosen = too much pressure. put a towel folded up to protect you from hot coolant / steam. if all is well there should be no drama, slight hiss and cap is off

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might be worth back flushing the cooling system.

 

I have to do this annually on the staaaag because steel and alloy etc cause fur even with blue glycol. fur bungs up rad and then it gets worse

 

Rover v8 can back flush in the same way. disconnect rad bottom hose and point it towards the ground. disconnect top rad hose, remove thermostat, refit hose pointing upwards. install garden hose into top hose. run the hose and water should come out of the bottom hose at much the same rate. you can fit a sieve or something under it to catch any crap coming out for analysis. When I do this on the triumph v8 I have then engine running. it shouldnt over heat because it has a constant and total loss feed of fresh cold water. with the heater matrix open that should also be fed but dont know much about p45 heating system other than less technology was used to put men on the moon.

 

run it like that for half an hour.

 

remove rad, lay flat, fill with water and then tip it up to drain out of the top hole. should empty in seconds. I did have a flow rate for a stag rad someplace generally if it takes more than 5 seconds to empty them there is an issue

 

edited to add

be kind to the environmnet with the old antifreeze of course

 

also if you have an ir thermometer, you can check the heat across the matrix. around top hose should be hottest, around bottom hose should be coldest. cold spots are not good news anywhere else as indicated blockages

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I'l in the snake oil camp on these leak fixing potions too.  I might give them a bash on a car that was one major bill away from the weigh bridge but not on anything I wanted a medium-long term future with.  A bit like these injector cleaners and wotnot that claim to fix your emissions...it might lower them just enough to scrape one last MOT, but if your emissions are on the limit in the first place there is another problem.

 

Interested to see the results though.

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wynn dpf cleaner worked on the c4 golden turd. but any of these things are a short term fix until the inevitable.

 

I k-seaked that rover v8 with the slipped liner earlier in the thread. it lasted nearly 40k miles before it went again, yes 40,000 miles. i replaced the head gaskets and it went again very quickly like with 1,000 miles, k sealed it and it had no effect. had heads skimmed, no effect, then I noticed the dropped liner.

 

Ran it like that for another 10k, topping up coolant every other journey. but when it started mis firing I k-sealed it again, two days later it shot the plug off the top of the rad and dumped pretty much every drop of coolant in 5 nano seconds on the m40. engine siezed up and I threw the towel in.

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The heater going cold is air entering the system - combustion gasses. For now, you could leave the rad bleed screw slightly open so that it vents itself but the engine will run hotter as it's not pressurised. The Steel Seal can try and do its thing.

 

Tbh though, it's fucked isn't it? Ebay beckons. You bought it, some other hero will too.

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Suggestion on the sign right there dude - easy option methinks!

 

I'd get a calenders worth of scenery shots and flog said produce to RR lickers to finance the impending pit of wallet-munching-despair that seems to be looming......... gorgeous looking but evil bitch (aren't they all!)

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More pics.

post-5582-0-18008900-1519989948_thumb.jpg

Today's update.

The water pump is pissing out coolant. Depending on snow chaos, the motor factors in forfar might have one today (ordered on Wednesday).

 

Temp readings were 60 at the top hose and 45 at the bottom.

Top hose is quite firm with engine running compared to engine off. Not rock hard but noticeably stiffer than with engine off.

 

I'll swap the pump and take it from there.

post-5582-0-16744900-1519990303_thumb.jpg

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