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Range Rover P45? - it's hot.


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Well done that man *awaits stone throwing

That looks like a nice straight one but we all know that's not what counts with these..

Mines the poverty spec 2.5DT auto but I feckin love it.

Bought as 'having some battery flattening problems' but soon sorted that. Serviced it & have clocked up ten thousand miles in about seven months without a single problem (er, except now, I have to replace a viscous fan).

 

So, well wear young man.

Yours is a great colour, never seen one in that colour.

Subscribed & watching with enthusiastic optimism!

 

post-19903-0-27908800-1519174069_thumb.jpeg

 

 

CFD

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Leaky water pump = loosen the serpentine drive belt to take the load off the water pump. you will probably find that it wobbles about on its bearing! replacement is only option. cooling system efficiency will never be good with this fault

 

btw dont assume dreaded slipped liner of Solihull!

 

first check whip out all the spark plugs, one or more may look sparkly white, those will be the problem cylinders. No steam cleaned plugs = no HGF nor dropped liner of boat anchor... possibly

 

Next any sign of k-seal? copper coloured fairy dust around the header tank neck and in the coolant?

 

Ask previous owner if he used steal-seal! if so Rad may be plugged up. just because it looks new doesnt mean that it flows properly.

 

dropped liner has same symptoms as hgf, only be removalage of the head will you find out.

 

this is what liner slip looked like on my last 3.9

 

3rd cylinder back has been pressure washed

post-3439-0-11343400-1519208644_thumb.jpg

 

I closer look shows that the liner has dropped by a few thou.

post-3439-0-98742200-1519208641_thumb.jpg

 

the impact is that the fire ring on the head gasket is too close to its neighbour and therefore sits on the liner. when the liner drops the head gasket will fail.

 

liner replacement is the only solution, thou you can delay the inevitable with a dose of K-seal

 

godspeed mon brave

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Epic jumping in both feet (shackled and blindfolded to boot) with this. I miss my old P38 terribly....... it had a total ghost drain on the battery that had me doing the lock jiggling fandango every time I was away for a few days. Cycling the batteries on charge to keep up with the thing.

Comfy, lord of the road ride (replaced rear bags after one started deflating over day lay-ups) and it really was great and apart from the leccy-drain laid up it never gave me any other problem at all.

 

Hoping the system just needs air-locks sorting out and a replacement pump and proper flush through will see you Capt Blue-bearded on the queens highways asap.

 

I'll await the roffle ;-)

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The temperature gauge "shooting up" is an oddity of the design of these. The needle is utterly non-linear, meaning it will stay bolt-solid in the middle for a range of temperatures, but as soon as you get over a threshold temperature, it immediately shoots up to just below the red. Similarly, if the temperature is below a threshold temperature, the needle will show just above cold.

 

The D2 has this design too, and it's a twat, as minor changes in temperature are not shown, so you get no warning about gradually worsening issues. They may as well have just fitted a series of 5 lamps that show

 

Cold

Warmer

Normal

A bit too hot

Too Late.

 

As effectvely, that's all the gauge shows. If you hook up a Nanocom to one of these (or a D2) and show live temperature data, you can quite clearly see the digital changes at certain temperatures. I now have a completely independent analogue temperature gauge on my D2, which actually tells you what-the-buggery is going on. Waaay more useful than the factory information.

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IIRC tapping when the engine is warm is a sign of slipped liners, but could also be just about anything else...

Yeah, I went looking for it and might have found it (pessimist) although it is very faint (optimist).

 

When it was boiling up the bottom hose to the rad was only warm while the top hose was very hot. Any significance? Where's the best place to point an ir temp gauge?

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It's worked on various wanked old BMW junk with OMFGHGF in the past. K Seal is useless imo.

 

Best was a 2000 ish 523i running on three. Poured SS in and within 20 mins of idling the missing three cylinders fired into life as it found compression again.

 

Fuck repairing a buggered X reg RR V8 properly though. Nobody will thank you for that.

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the bottom hose to the rad was only warm while the top hose was very hot.

Yes. Airlocked, or boiling so badly you have a steamlock. Same issue as to why your heater is cold.

 

I'm not so well versed in RovaarghVeeAte engines, but in general I would say you want the sensor as close as possible to the hot outlet. My extra sensor is drilled/tapped into the cylinder head, just adjacent to the hot coolant outlet port.

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IIRC a sticking thermostat can cause similar symptoms, so you might like to check that as well...

 

Six-cylinder had a P38 4.6 V8 before the L322 diesel. It was a lovely thing, very thirsty for fuel but a wonderful place to be. That was dark blue with cream leather, which was nice, but that pale metallic blue paintwork of yours is glorious! :-)

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Superb cars!

 

I've had my 4.6HSE for over 11 years. Has Failed to proceed once last year- wife left boot partly closed gattery drained and BeCM lost synch with engine ecu. Cost £200 to put right. Not bad for 11 years. Replaced tyres and exhaust a couple of times- exhausts are cheap and a lazy suspension compressor.

 

Any info check out landyzone on the internet. Theres not a lot that cannot be answered there.

 

Keep us informed!

 

 

Steve

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I always wondered if LR dealers back then had a 'P38 lounge' for prospective buyers - the general decor and the sofas would be trimmed to match an Iveco AA recovery truck and all the showroom staff wore a HiViz. Some of the Guy Salmon places would even have a P38 simulator where you could experience what it's like to actually complete a journey.

post-3069-0-24884700-1519225547_thumb.jpg

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Superb cars!

 

I've had my 4.6HSE for over 11 years. Has Failed to proceed once last year- wife left boot partly closed gattery drained and BeCM lost synch with engine ecu. Cost £200 to put right. Not bad for 11 years. Replaced tyres and exhaust a couple of times- exhausts are cheap and a lazy suspension compressor.

 

Any info check out landyzone on the internet. Theres not a lot that cannot be answered there.

 

Keep us informed!

 

 

Steve

Whilst £200 over 11 years works out pretty well, on the other hand if be fuming that just letting the battery go flat lands a bill that size in my lap.

 

What happens if you let it run out of fuel, a new engine? :-D

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This is booked in for diagnosis on Wednesday but I had some time today to have a look at the plugs etc.

 

7 look like this

post-5582-0-07100700-1519575955_thumb.jpg

 

And one looks like this

post-5582-0-96604500-1519576045_thumb.jpg

 

It sounds to me like it's running on all 8 cylinders (in hindsight I should have pulled the lead on the fouled plug to check).

 

Surely 7 plugs aren't steam cleaned?

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Swap them around.

 

When I had a LR with an older V8 it was running on about 4, I swapped the non-running plugs with the running ones & it stayed on 8 till I sold it months later.

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