MikeR Posted March 17, 2018 Share Posted March 17, 2018 give those metal supports behind the rear wheel that hold the rear bumper a good clean up , a known rot spot along with the rear sills ... might be worth "breathing on the air intake system , it restricts the air flow ..... I put some big holes in the closed end of the resonance tube which seemed to help at low revs .... and if you get water dripping out of the heater motor , check this green plug out under the scuttle cover .. Jim Bell, oldcars and Lord Sterling 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollywobbler Posted March 17, 2018 Share Posted March 17, 2018 Thanks for your wheeltime today. I appreciated the break! loserone and Lord Sterling 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Magpie215 Posted March 18, 2018 Share Posted March 18, 2018 Definitely pop the scuttle panel off one my k11s rotted out under there catch it early you might be ok. Front xmember is also a hotspot for tinworm but is a fairly simple fix Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jams Posted March 18, 2018 Share Posted March 18, 2018 OOOO does the whole plastic scuttle panel just remove cleanly? mines the pre-facelift. Also removing the bumper any tips on how for someone not mechanically inclined? (got a Haynes just wondering if any tips as do not fancy breaking something atm )Once wipers removed there’s a Phillips screw in middle and a small clip on ds needs pulling towards you. Under the rubber flap there’s a host of clips attached to the rubber they need a wiggle and lift upwards. A tac lifter is amazing for these. Then scuttle should lift upwards it has clips on the underside they like to be a pain. Just don’t put any pressure on the glass and you will be fine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeR Posted March 18, 2018 Share Posted March 18, 2018 front cross member .... is a rust spot , it can be replaced , but check it over and make sure the fan resistor is clean , they can over heat and pop davehedgehog31, Lord Sterling and oldcars 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Sterling Posted March 18, 2018 Share Posted March 18, 2018 front cross member .... is a rust spot , it can be replaced , but check it over Image077.jpg and make sure the fan resistor is clean , they can over heat and pop IMGP0216.JPGMikeR, do you have, or does anyone have a spare fan resistor? The one in Ma_Sterlings Micra has popped since a long while now and needs replacing, I've never got around to replacing it as I've often forgotton to do so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeR Posted March 18, 2018 Share Posted March 18, 2018 I did measure a good one when I had a Micra Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loserone Posted March 18, 2018 Author Share Posted March 18, 2018 Really? Is it just the almera where they're 'not structural' and only an advisory? The one on this one was fine last I looked. It'll need discs and pads soonish, and if it's being used round corners I;d highly recommended replacing the springs and dampers.. HarmonicCheeseburger 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Magpie215 Posted March 19, 2018 Share Posted March 19, 2018 I know I will need the front X-member doing this year before next MOT.It's actually outside the prescribed area but a lot if testers fail them......to be fair there is a pickup point on it for the engine/gbox so imo it should be fixed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davehedgehog31 Posted March 19, 2018 Share Posted March 19, 2018 Had a Barney the Dinosaur purple Micra K11, loved it. Sold it to my mate and it soldiered on for a good few years before the tinworm got it. loserone 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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