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54-plate fiesta ABS problems NOW CLUTCH PROBLEMS


Mr_Bo11ox

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I'm shelling out money left right and centre.... this week it's the friggin pet insurance and £300 on a Eurotunnel crossing for a week's holiday, I cannot face another £350 bill this week so I'm defo DIYing it. Just bought a big syringe to suck the oil out.

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No oil drain? WTF man

Drill a hole at the lowest point, then tap and fit an M10 bolt with a dowty washer behind it perhaps?

 

I can sortof understand no level plug, and you just have to fill from empty a known quantity, but no drain plug is just ridiculous.

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There's no drain plug on my Focus (IB5 gearbox), either. I tried sucking the oil out of the filler hole. Got about 300ml out then gave up. In a "shit or bust" move that could potentially have gone either way, I removed some sort of detent that allowed the oil to flow out easily. Some people say nuns and kittens will meet an untimely end if you do this, others have done it without issue. I did poo myself a bit, though.

 

Filler in blue, "drain" in red.

post-17736-0-11282200-1534414251_thumb.jpg

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I removed some sort of detent that allowed the oil to flow out easily. Some people say nuns and kittens will meet an untimely end if you do this, others have done it without issue. I did poo myself a bit, though.

Could it be a case of "you can do this, but don't move the gear lever while the detent cover is off, or the entire contents of the gearbox will spring out through the hole"

 

Detent plugs are like this on the CX. You can remove them just fine, but if you so much as breathe on the gear linkages the entire world will end.

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Drill a hole at the lowest point, then tap and fit an M10 bolt with a dowty washer behind it perhaps?

 

I can sortof understand no level plug, and you just have to fill from empty a known quantity, but no drain plug is just ridiculous.

Can just see all the gearbox oil suddenly pissing out all over your arms as you drill this hole. Assuming the driveshaft comes out ok, just put a big sump tray underneath to catch as much as possible then put back in what’s come out.

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Could it be a case of "you can do this, but don't move the gear lever while the detent cover is off, or the entire contents of the gearbox will spring out through the hole"

 

Detent plugs are like this on the CX. You can remove them just fine, but if you so much as breathe on the gear linkages the entire world will end.

 

 

Ah, now then, you're quite right. I missed off that very important piece of advice - have the gearbox in neutral and don't touch it during the work!!

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Going back a page, it's a pity this brake failure didn't happen when I had a Fiesta for parts to go onto the Fusion. I didn't have space for it so removed what I needed and weighed the rest in!

 

I do still have the 1400cc engine and box in my garage complete though.

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Well this Fiesta has only done about 75k or something and the engine and box are pretty mint, although is it one SLOW ASS VEHICLE. I’m sure it should be livelier but theres nowt obviously awry - sounds OK, starts on the button, averages 40 mpg, no lights on or owt…. it just feels asthmatic.

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It's lazy and wrong but I would unclip the gaiters and just withdraw the tripods leaving the ends of the driveshaft still in the final drive. As long as you wrap plastic bags around the greasy bits it will survive. My other laziness would be to not bother removing the driveshaft from the other end just breaking the bottom balljoint and using a nice bit of wood to prop the leg out the way. Doesn't work so well if the long driveshaft has a support bearing though...

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I think it's the same as the 1.25 box, I've done 2 clutches,

 

You'll need 2 x new lower arm pinch bolts/nuts as they always need twatting out,

Drivers side driveshaft will pull out easy but passenger one may need knocking out gently internally from the other side with a long screwdriver as it's got a meaty circlip

Passenger engine mount under the battery needs removing so it's a 2 jack job, one to lower engine one to support box while you remove the nuts

I got away without undoing the exhaust, just don't lower the engine too much

Clutch itself is a doddle

Twat to line up again and a tight fit to get the box back up into the right area cos chassis leg but raise 2 jacks slowly and they will pop together

 

Hub nuts are VERY easy to misthread but outer CV joints are only £14 from GSF with a code with new nuts etc and not a bad idea given the shafts are off 

 

Local decent place quoted me £204 for a full LUK kit supplied and fitted, they will be doing the next one !!

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Well done, to a man who knocks out KV6 Cambelt changes, this is a walk in the park.

 

I'be done the job on a Fester ST150 (same box diff belhousing for the Mazda derived 2.0 lump IIRC)

 

If that clutch cover is 'self adjusting' make sure it is still set to the the 'unadjusted state'. When I did an ST150, I was using a new driven plate but the original cover (clutch wasn't worn but gearbox mainshaft had snapped) so a new driven plate was a 'whilst it is all out may as well). Caused me no end of grief and had to take the fekkin box out a second time. The cover had 'adjusted up' to take out the wear in the original drive Plate. I put a new unworn drive Plate in and the pedal was rock solid. I had to reset the clutch cover. A mate of mine said they always check the covers before fitting as a drop in the parts dept can have them ratcheting up so to speak.

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