54-plate fiesta ABS problems NOW CLUTCH PROBLEMS

[Mr_Bo11ox]

Alright shiters, can anyone offer some advice about a problem in the Bo11ox household?

 

Mrs Nutz has a 54-plate Fiesta 1.4 Pez exactly like this one.

 

 

The other day she went to drive it and the battery was flat. It doesnt get much use so I just put it down to that. But when the bazza was recharged, now there are ABS, EML and handbrake light on and the speedo and mileometer are not working. I took the battery right off to recharge it overnight but this didnt seem to reset anything - the lights seem to be on good and proper.

 

A bit of googling suggests an ABS problem would give these symptoms. Before I have had time to look at it she's taken it down to the local garage who have done a diagnostic check (probably just plugged a code reader in) and declared the ABS pump/module to be knacked.

 

Seemingly my options are:

 

1) The garage will sell us a used module off a dead Ka they have for 80 sheets. 3 hours labour to fit it (£100 cash!!!) but theres no guarantee with it of course once you drive away.

2) buy a module off ebay for like £50 or whatever and fit it myself.

3) remove and send off our module for a refurb, costs about 200 sheets seemingly with a guarantee, there seems to be 3 or 4 shops doing this onlline. DIY fit obvs.

4) buy a new module for £300, again DIY fit.

 

Can anyone think of any other options?

 

Also, anyone know for sure whether a replacement one would need coding in or whatever, and last question, do I need a pressure bleeder to bleed the system through after fitting?

 

Thanks shiters!!!! I need to get this sorted as Mrs Nuts asks me a different question about it every 15 seconds.

[omegod]

There's a big loom connector behind the battery that corrodes internally and upsets the cluster, I think you'll see a 10 mm or 13 mm bolt holding it together, take it apart and clean it up and see how it reacts , we've had one for 14 yrs and had similar issue 

 

Worth a go and it's free apart from a can of contact cleaner  

[Mr_Bo11ox]

Cheers OMG, I will have a look. Are you talking about the plug onto the ABS module itself?

[omegod]

It's the first point of call for RAC etc with Fiesta elec probs that's all I can say and sorted ours !

[The Reverend Bluejeans]

Did you start it with a booster pack?

[Mr_Bo11ox]

No, I just took the bazza off, recharged it and put it back on

[The Reverend Bluejeans]

Okay. Festers of this vintage will have a Bosch ABS ASC (traction control) set up. Chances are, a used one will fit and not need coding. Later stuff where the ABS module talks to the steering angle sensor (built into the column stalk assy) will.

 

Odd that it failed in sympathy with the battery. You have checked the ABS fuse............?

[Mr_Bo11ox]

Yeah I did check the fuses actually, no problems there annoyingly. It does seem strange how it was fine, then the bazza was flat, and now there a problem.

[Guest]

Are there smaller cables that connect to the large battery cables on the terminals?- Fords always seemed to do that and it was easy to miss one being broken off when re connecting the battery.

[bigfella2]

Have you tried it with a good known battery? Or had that battery drop tested? because it seems strange that everything was top banana before battery went dead. Maybe the time of year temp wise and running flat has finished the battery. Just cos its putting out 12v doesn't mean it's not knackered.

[Mr_Bo11ox]

The battery is only 6 months old, and after a trickle charge its spinning the engine over like a mutha so I am reasonably confident in it

[AdeMk1]

Hi Mr Bo11ox,

I found this which may be of some help to you:-

 

This fault is normally caused by the ABS control module software failing.

The ABS detects the vehicle speed via the wheel speed sensors, this signal is then sent on a network to other control modules, if the signal is missing the engine management detects the missing signal and illuminates the warning light.

As the signal is missing for the instrument cluster the speedometer doesn't work and the mileage normally is just dashes instead of numbers.

The ABS light and brake warning light are controlled by the ABS module so are illuminated.

Check the electrical connector on the module for any signs of water ingress, check fuses 5, 6, 37 & 45 check pin 26 of the ABS module for continuity to earth if all appears OK the this would confirm a module failure.

[Rod/b]

Are there smaller cables that connect to the large battery cables on the terminals?- Fords always seemed to do that and it was easy to miss one being broken off when re connecting the battery.

I had exactly this on a 95 Escort. There was a thin wire with an eye on it that needed connecting up on +’ve to get it to start.

[twosmoke300]

I’d say one of the main power supply wires to the module are disconnected or broken . If you pm me the reg I should be able to send you a pin out diagram for the module so you can test the power and earth supplies to it .

[sierraman]

Too much of a coincidence that the battery had been swapped at same time.

 

If it is the pump, removing it and sending it away to be repaired looks like the only financially viable way of doing it to me.

[SiC]

Didn't you buy a DS150e code scanner?

 

If not, buy this: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F152857598042

Download this: http://www.forscan.org/download.html

 

And get the codes read to stop guessing why the lights are on.

 

Sounds very much like the ABS module is not talking to the rest of the car. Makes complete sense given the warnings are up. Power would be the first sensible check. Don't a lot of ABS modules rumble as they self test the pump when ignition is on?

[sierraman]

I agree, don't replace anything until you've conclusive proof.

[Mr_Bo11ox]

So after some faffing I convinced myself the ABS pump/valve/controller module was defo the problem. I found the company 'BBA Reman' selling an overhaul service for these ABS modules through eBay for 160 all in (£200 + VAT through their website?!?!) so I bought the service, removed the ABS module and sent it off to them. After a day or two I'd heard nowt so I chased em up. "Yeah we've received and tested it but sadly its unrepairable, however we can offer you a refurbed unit off the shelf for 250 all in if thats any good to you?" sounded a bit fishy to me. I said i couldnt justify spending that much on the car so thanks but no thanks. They came back with "well how much could you justify? I am sure my manager would offer you a discount' etc etc. Anyway by this time I'd bought a used one off another seller for £85 with a warranty long enough to get it on the car and check it works OK.

 

Fitted that last night and tonight:

 

 

The ABS module is tucked up against the bulkhead behind the battery, its not too bad to get to:

 

 

 

Snapped off a bleed nipple on the back (I'm sure no-one has undone those previously on this car!!!) so another £18 went on a new wheel cylinder which I fitted tonight. Bled it all through using the oldskool leg-pumping method. I am pleased to report that all warning lights are now off, speedometer is back in action and Mrs_Bo11ox is well chuffed. Total cost £103, but her dad gave us a £200 cash injection to get it sorted so thats a result.

[paulplom]

I bet you're well chuffed. Very satisfying when everything works out.

[twosmoke300]

Who hoo ! Ideal result . I’ve had varying success with bba reman over the years and tend to use ecu testing or actronics these days

[sierraman]

Good they offered you a bit of a discount though. Did the £100 one want recoding?

[Mr_Bo11ox]

No coding required thankfully

[paulplom]

My local mot garage told me to avoid bba reman like the plague. The last time they used them they lost the abs pump from a golf. It cost the garage £800 for a new one. Ba reman gave them a £200 apology.

[richardthestag]

My local mot garage told me to avoid bba reman like the plague. The last time they used them they lost the abs pump from a golf. It cost the garage £800 for a new one. Ba reman gave them a £200 apology.

 

good result Boll

 

Who else other than BBA Remen does this kind of work I have a abs modulator that could do with a rebuild

[Anglevan]

Sorry to drag this up but Mrs anglevan has a 56 plate 1.4 fiesta. It's been stood over Easter as she picked up a nail in the tyre. Took it to be fixed this morning driving fine but noticed indicator was playing up. Then noticed abs and brake light flashing on and off. Seemed to drive OK then abs light goes out and now alternator light on permanently. Got it home OK but checked all the usual

Sounds similar to your fault, how's yours going now?

[Mr_Bo11ox]

Alright gang, Mrs_Nuthatch was complaining about her car failing to go up hills and smelling like it was on fire so i took it for a spin tonight. The clutch is flippin well knackered. I either fix it myself, or send it to a garage and pay the flippin bill myself as she has no money. SO I think I'm gonna tackle it myself. Anyone done this job (54-plate 1.4 pez) who can warn me of any pitfalls? Do the driveshafts come out easily? Can you drain the gearbox oil easily enough? I thin it ha a concentric slave cylinder so I will buy a clutch kit with a new one of them in.

[Kiltox]

I doubt it would be hard for NUTZ_KARZ_LTD

 

Definitely fit a full kit including CSC

[twosmoke300]

Always the full kit !

Easy enough apart from there prob isn’t a gearbox drain so it will get messy . Maybe use a vac pump to suck some out ?

Typical ford will have the ns driveshaft clipped into the diff so bloody tight that you will crack the castIng trying to pry / bump it out like most cars .

The trick is to take the drivers side one out first and use a long thin screwdriver through the diff and give the end of the ns shaft a tap to release it .

[sierraman]

Hence why the garage up the road is swapping my driveshaft today. You are right about it bring tight against the diff. I could have just took the tripod out and left the cup in place but got what it’s worth the garage didn’t want a lot to change it.

 

Might be worth getting a price to fit a clutch, might be less than you’d think by the time you’ve heaved about taking the gearbox off.

[twosmoke300]

let them crack the casing