Jump to content

1995 BMW 320i


Supernaut

Recommended Posts

Fuck it. Ordered the GSF stuff.

 

I'll swing past the local scrap yard on my way to the shops and see if they have any E36s with screen wash nozzles, as the passenger side one on the 320i seemed a bit blocked. Not surprised it was a failure point.

 

Otherwise, a pair of brand new ones can be bought from ebay for £10, or £5 from Hong Kong but they would take an age to get here.

 

I suppose I could buy the Hong Kong ones, and whip one off the 316 just to get the 320 through its MOT in the interim...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Lemforder is decent. Pretty much OEM.

 

The standard go to tip top top mounts is an E46 M3 Cabrio topmounts.

 

Dealer only, and no cheap. The 320i has nowhere near enough grunt to need them.

 

New rear dampers and top mounts will make this a much more pleasant thing to drive.

 

Not the worst of jobs either on a saloon or coupe.

 

Good luck!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Forget trying to separate the rear steel pipes from

The flexies- you won’t. Replace the whole lot - flexible pipes and copper metal lines but use E46 flexy pipes as fitted to late E36’s. This gets rid of the stupid S pipe and two flexies for a much easier and neater job.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Told yah the rear Number plate would be an issue... ;)

As promised, "If the cars not condemned I'll buy it a set of pressed plates".

 

Guess this means I know what I'll be helping you to do over the next few weeks.

1 project and sufficient time is a good thing.

 

I have 3 to sort concurrently, and an Oxford that is more holy than Jebus h Christo himsel

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So tell me if I'm being silly, but once the MOT failures are sorted (probably mid-March now, seeing as I'll be busy this weekend, then out of the country for two weeks) I'm quite tempted to tidy up the cosmetics on this, as well as sorting out the bonnet release and the driver's window motor obvs.

 

 

First, I'd like to get hold of some Vactan or similar rust treatment stuff, plus some black stonechip.

My plan would be to give it a sort of tidemark on both sides, for example;

 

post-19977-0-81330400-1518463002_thumb.jpg

 

This is because it has the rust wart on the driver's side, and on the passenger side it has some bubbling on the leading edge of the wheel arch.

 

My plan for the bits higher up the wheel arches is unclear at the moment. A stripe of black stonechip around the edge of the arch might* look a bit shit, so maybe I'll get some Boston green for that. At least it's on an edge so to speak, so if the paint match isn't spot-on it shouldn't be too noticeable.

 

 

 

Another brilliant* idea I've had is to try and offer up all the wheels I have for this for swap on a BMW forum or Facebook page. I'd ask for a matching set of 4 wheels with reasonable tyres (plus a spare of the same size but not necessarily the same design) in return. I'd really like some of these:

 

inv_006873.jpg

 

I've just found out these are called Style 13s

 

 

 

Then, I've also found these on ebay:

 

s-l1600.jpg

 

£28.95 isn't too bad.

 

Then I'd plan to give the whole car a good polish. It'll never be perfect, but I reckon I could get it looking alright with some scratch removal polish and some black trim gel.

 

 

 

The goal would be to turn up to Shitefest in June with this all nicely 'restored'

 

Silly, or the spirit of autoshite? Hmm. Part of me reckons it would look GR9 next to the 316i at shows.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm not very experienced with that sort of thing, so any help is appreciated!

Remove loose rust and paint from area with ginder/sanding etc. (Scary).

Apply fibreglass paste to hole and wait for it to dry. (Messy).

Sand back fibreglass until it is nice and flat to the bodywork. (Satisfying).

Apply primer to area to be painted. (Back to scary).

Apply aerosol can of correct paint to area. (Still scary).

Step back and admire handywork. (Satisfying).

Wait for paint to dry and realise it looks shit. (Annoying).

Add more layers of paint in the vain hope it might end up the same colour as the rest of the car. (Hopeful).

Accept it looks a bit naff but nobody else in the world will care because old car. (Fuck it).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Aye, I'll ask my parents nicely if I can use one of their barns for this work. I'd probably need to set aside a whole weekend (or more) to do it.

 

I think I'll aim to do one side at a time from start to finish, instead of starting bits and leaving it unfinished for a week etc. etc.

 

 

 

I'm getting really far ahead of myself here though! Still waiting for the MOT fixing parts to arrive, then I need to fit them sometime in March and then get it re-MOT'd!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

 

[quote name=

 

 

 

 

As a sidenote, I rather like Ellon Car Clinic. I asked the mechanic if he could come outside first as I wanted to explain a few things to him. Showed him how to start it, and explained the bonnet needed pliers to open. I asked if he wanted me to ping it off the catches in the car park and he just said "Ach, it's fine! I've got E36s at home!" and he just cracked on with it. I'll be taking it back there for a re-test, definitely!.

 

Used them for new Uniroyal Rainsport tyres last summer and the mechanic told me how liked the tyres. This despite having goosed a front set on a tuned Saab turbo he had in 6k miles.

I'd use them again too.....

 

Sent from my Redmi 4 using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Remove loose rust and paint from area with ginder/sanding etc. (Scary).

Apply fibreglass paste to hole and wait for it to dry. (Messy).

Sand back fibreglass until it is nice and flat to the bodywork. (Satisfying).

Apply primer to area to be painted. (Back to scary).

Apply aerosol can of correct paint to area. (Still scary).

Step back and admire handywork. (Satisfying).

Wait for paint to dry and realise it looks shit. (Annoying).

Add more layers of paint in the vain hope it might end up the same colour as the rest of the car. (Hopeful).

Accept it looks a bit naff but nobody else in the world will care because old car. (Fuck it).

 

Lots of primer, lots of 800 grit wet and dry and lots of time until it's perfect. I'd use Halfords Boston green, a good match. Paint and lacquer up to the side moulding. After a week, block it with 2000 grit and T Cut it, job done.

 

And wait until April. It's too cold for bodywork and the paint will bloom.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

I went to John Clark BMW today, and ordered some parts:

- rear shock absorber mounting bolts

- screenwash nozzles

- aux belt

- bonnet release cables and catches

 

Total is £135, and I will collect it next Saturday. Would have been north of £200 if I went for heated screenwash nozzles...

 

I also pissed about in the showroom while waiting. I even sat in an i8!

 

 

post-19977-0-14629500-1520699217_thumb.jpg

post-19977-0-03224300-1520699307_thumb.jpg

post-19977-0-93852300-1520699403_thumb.jpg

post-19977-0-00003300-1520699503_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...