matt27 Posted January 6, 2018 Share Posted January 6, 2018 So my first thread melted the server and ended up in News 24, here's hoping for more success this time! I've got loads of jobs outstanding on our fleet, so headed out this morning to try and resolve a few issues. WP_20180106_10_45_11_Rich by Matthew Leigh, on Flickr There is a car hiding under all that frost! First things first, my wife's R8 Coupe, the heater blower only works intermittently - I'm guessing the blower fan is knackered, but wanted to check the resistors first. Glovebox out to get to the resistor WP_20180106_10_55_36_Rich by Matthew Leigh, on Flickr Two screws to release it, nothing wrong here WP_20180106_10_59_20_Rich by Matthew Leigh, on Flickr Onto the next issue, passenger side central locking has stopped working. Door card comes off quite easily - I need something to replace the yellow sealant around the door liner, its gone rock solid WP_20180106_11_26_12_Rich by Matthew Leigh, on Flickr That allowed me to get a circuit tester into the wiring loom, everything seems to be fine with a pulse when locked or unlocked. I'll have to search for a replacement. Not much success here so far, I decided to take a look at my Rover 75. My headlamps are awful, I've tried rubbing down and polishing before, but the improvement doesn't last long, I guess any UV protection has been rubbed away by now. WP_20180106_11_48_52_Rich by Matthew Leigh, on Flickr I've got 2nd hand units to replace these, it might be nice to be able see in the evenings. Bumper off, no seized bolts WP_20180106_11_59_56_Rich by Matthew Leigh, on Flickr Someone took a lot of time screwing up all this newspaper packaging! WP_20180106_12_07_37_Rich by Matthew Leigh, on Flickr New vs Old WP_20180106_12_09_23_Rich by Matthew Leigh, on Flickr For some reason, on both my second hand units the lamp units had come away from the housing - a bit of googling suggests this is quite common, both my originals were fine though. Popping the unit back on these ball joints is lots of fun* especially in the cold. I managed to wedge my hand inside, line things up and pop it back together, took a good half hour of messing around though. WP_20180106_12_18_04_Rich by Matthew Leigh, on Flickr Halfway there WP_20180106_12_56_17_Rich by Matthew Leigh, on Flickr Other side had a damaged mount which has been repaired previously - only the repair meant the rivets pushed the whole lamp unit forward I figured three out of four fixings would probably be ok, so drilled out the rivets and fitted it in - nice and solid. WP_20180106_12_59_38_Rich by Matthew Leigh, on Flickr That looks better WP_20180106_13_12_18_Rich by Matthew Leigh, on Flickr Next up, a vanity project! The front grill badge looked awful, I got a cheap replacement from ebay WP_20180106_13_21_26_Rich by Matthew Leigh, on Flickr I think the new one is from a V8 rather than the cheap film on the standard facelift grill WP_20180106_13_21_35_Rich by Matthew Leigh, on Flickr Unfortunately it shaped slightly differently so the 3M tape on the back didn't touch the grille. I was going to use some Sikaflex to attach it, but that has set in its tube. I'll have to finish this job off tomorrow. WP_20180106_13_31_28_Rich by Matthew Leigh, on Flickr That's it for now, if any one is interested I'll keep updating this. I've also got a Mini in the garage currently without any engine bay wiring - need to get that ready for the London to Brighton run at the end of May.... DeeJay, tooSavvy, Lord Sterling and 16 others 19 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_Rocket Posted January 6, 2018 Share Posted January 6, 2018 Nice work, looks much fresher. Aren't these little jobs the most satisfying?! matt27 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Asimo Posted January 6, 2018 Share Posted January 6, 2018 Always worth putting a bit of vaseline or grease on those snap on ball and socket things, makes it much easier to snap them together. And saving the job for a hot day when the plastic is less brittle. Anyone know of a spray on UV proofing lacquer suitable for these polycarbonate headlamp lenses? matt27 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt27 Posted January 6, 2018 Author Share Posted January 6, 2018 Always worth putting a bit of vaseline or grease on those snap on ball and socket things, makes it much easier to snap them together. And saving the job for a hot day when the plastic is less brittle. Anyone know of a spray on UV proofing lacquer suitable for these polycarbonate headlamp lenses? Yes, I did use some Vaseline to help it on. One of the units both balls had popped off so I was a little concerned about the adjuster getting damaged! It would definitely be better on a hot day - I did take it into the house as I couldn't feel my fingers by this point! I did try and find some UV protection, not discovered anything yet, hopefully someone else has Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt27 Posted January 6, 2018 Author Share Posted January 6, 2018 And as this got lost in another thread, my original plan.... Hey, Sitting here, off work ill for a few days, feeling miserable and reading Autoshite - I've decided I should stop lurking and actually contribute something. I figure this might hold me accountable for some of the jobs on the cars that needs doing, but that I generally neglect! If you guys aren't interesting in an badly running R8 coupe with a dented front wing, peeling lacquer, wet boot and a split rear spoiler then I'm on the wrong forums There is a bit of a list of work mounting up....so here is my not quite new years resolution list: Coupe - Should be the priority as its my wife's car! Fix engine running issue - revs waaay too high at idle as IACV fully opens - unplug and it runs ok although difficult to start in the cold. ECU also faulty, can't connect to read faults. Replacement ECU only seems to run engine on 2 cylinders!Find replacement front wingFix or replace rear spoiler - keeping cutting my fingers on the split fibreglassTreat rust on rear archesFix exhaust - one of the aftermarket sections is too short and pulls everything so the back box bangs on the ARBRepair heater which intermittently turns on and offRepair headlamp mounting bolt with no head Rover 75 Front wishbone mount needs replacing, one side done, other side was just about ok and it was too cold to sort...Sort (very) cloudy headlights - both the Coupe and the Mini are better!Sort out handbrake - assume compensator has stretchedFix aircon and reversing sensors (first world problems!)Leaking boot Mini Actually fit my electronic ignition anolld make up engine wiring loomRemove engine, replace crank oil sealsTrim arches and fit properlySet up suspensionRolling road sessionFit new rear seats and miscellaneous trim Plus, whatever I have forgotten, whatever else goes wrong and the usual servicing etc! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooSavvy Posted January 7, 2018 Share Posted January 7, 2018 Ha! I bought a R8 fan speed controller (£7) and cut it down to fit my Carina II.... Stock part coming up at £35/50 on the web. Works perfectly ftw TS Parky, chaseracer and privatewire 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt27 Posted January 7, 2018 Author Share Posted January 7, 2018 Nice bit of money saving TS The one thing I didn't do with the 75 headlamps was check the adjusters worked in the new ones....they don't. I'll have to try and adjust them with some pliers for now, but will need to try and fix the cogs somehow or swap the lenses over onto the old units. fun* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollywobbler Posted January 7, 2018 Share Posted January 7, 2018 I think normal car body wax is what a lot of people use to protect refurbed lenses. I did on the Honda. Haven't been very good at refreshing it though, and one side is looking a little tired after over a year. oldcars, J4mes and matt27 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt27 Posted January 13, 2018 Author Share Posted January 13, 2018 Rover 75 Just had a quick look at things this morning, one of my new (to me) headlamps is too high and needs adjusting, all the adjusters are seized though. There is little room to work, but I can't be bothered taking the bumper off at the moment. The cogs for adjusting are just spinning on the spindle, so I prised the cog off of the troublesome headlamp, sprayed some plus gas around the base of the adjuster spindle and rocked it back and forth with some mole grips. Its moving now, but adjusting takes some time as there is little room to twist with pliers/grips. I'll head out again when its dark and see if I can make any progress. UltraWomble and Split_Pin 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt27 Posted January 13, 2018 Author Share Posted January 13, 2018 Thankfully managed to adjust the light WP_20180113_17_15_45_Rich by Matthew Leigh, on Flickr Its a bit tight but you can see the remains of the adjuster in the middle of the photo, with perseverance you can turn it with some long nose grips. Next job will to be to try and bond the proper adjuster gear on. UltraWomble 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt27 Posted January 20, 2018 Author Share Posted January 20, 2018 A dilemma today, decorating in the warmth or looking at cars in the rain/sleet/snow. Gave it until lunchtime and then went out to the cars.... Ordered a new ECU to see if that would fix the idle issue in the Coupe - the ECU seemed to have no control of the IACV, so it fully opens and the car revs it nuts off. Quick job to whip the ECU out and stick the new one in. Reprogrammed it to the immobiliser, cleared the error codes and it fired up ok. Plugged the IACV plug back on (I had it unplugged with valve closed so the car was usable) success, not revving through the roof Just one problem now, revs seem a bit lazy to drop back to idle after you rev it, hangs for half a second, then drops to about 1400 rpm and then slowly drops back idle over about 10 seconds. I'm better with carbs so if anyone can spot anything funny in the below that would be great! Not sure what the idle error refers to, but looks very iffy. 2 by Matthew Leigh, on Flickr Luckily I've got some software so I can check this stuff (and re-programme the ECU/alarm) - just shout if anyone needs to read an ECU or reprogramme fobs on a 5AS equipped Rover in Hertfordshire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3VOM Posted January 20, 2018 Share Posted January 20, 2018 Pure gut instinct says is the throttle still open when it shouldn't be? And what are the stepper limits and what do they mean? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt27 Posted January 20, 2018 Author Share Posted January 20, 2018 It seems to close ok, as the idle does return - and the idle switch shows as closed as soon as you come off the pedal - throttle angle does say 5degrees though, unsure if it should be zero. No idea on stepper limits, but by this point engine is almost up to temp, so assuming steps should be virtually zero. I've asked on the support forum for the diagnostics, hopefully they will have more of an idea than me! Proper idle info below: 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt27 Posted January 28, 2018 Author Share Posted January 28, 2018 Lots of work to do on the Coupe this weekend, no photos, not that they were particularly interesting to look at! Saturday involved getting the exhaust off as it was bloody noisy and that can't be helping with it not running and idling quite right. Back box was only replaced a couple of months ago, so the bolts actually came undone The other bolts along the system were....unrecognisable. Unbolted the manifold from the head, dropped the rest of the exhaust from its rubber hangers and pushed the manifold down as low as I could. Cut through the two down pipes as near to the manifold as possible, dragged the majority of the system out from underneath and pulled the manifold up out the bonnet - that was all easier than expected. I did however manage to bash the lambda sensor wiring to oblivion during the sawing. I found lots of useful bits already in the garage, downpipe, spare cat, full gasket set, so have ordered a new lambda sensor and centre section. Today involved investigation of heater motor and central locking motor. Heater motor came out without too much effort, had to loosen all the heater unit bolts and pull the carpet forward but that left enough room to drop the motor out. Plugged it back in to test, works fine when horizontal, stops when vertical. Replacement ordered from ebay. Last job was to remove the central locking motor from the N/S door. Much fiddling with handles etc (and the compulsory removal of a spring that I have no idea how to refit) was done and the old motor liberated. A final quick test confirmed it was dead - thankfully ebay had one for me! Only one of the 3 screws holding the motor to the lock mech was actually fitted, probably didn't help extend its life. Successful weekend (unless you're my wife, who now has a car with no central locking, heating or exhaust and is on axle stands on the drive)! outlaw118 and DeeJay 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tommytwo Posted January 28, 2018 Share Posted January 28, 2018 I used to have many problems with a high idle on my Rover 820. Cured it by disconnecting the battery and joining the two leads together to completely clear the old settings, left it overnight. On start up, the engine revved to 1500 but with use, the ECU seemed to learn the new setting and the idle was steady at 850. I have no idea why this worked but it seemed to. matt27 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt27 Posted January 28, 2018 Author Share Posted January 28, 2018 I replaced the ECU on this so settings should have been clear, but I'll give it after go once everything is back together I've also bought an alloy throttle body as the plastic ones tend to warp with age, hopefully all this love and attention will do the job! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J4mes Posted January 28, 2018 Share Posted January 28, 2018 How clean is the IACV? On my Accord ot idled high when it was filthy.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt27 Posted January 28, 2018 Author Share Posted January 28, 2018 Its nice and clean - these problems started with the idle getting higher and higher so I cleaned and then replaced the IACV with a spare I had in the garage. That problem turned out to be the ECU holding the valve fully open. There can't be anything left to change if I've not cured the idle problem... J4mes 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt27 Posted February 3, 2018 Author Share Posted February 3, 2018 Lots of packages arrived this week, although disappointingly not probably the most important part - the mid section of the exhaust. Capture by Matthew Leigh, on Flickr Apparently this actually means, we'll spend a few days checking if we can actually get this item, and then inform you it will be 3 weeks and then another 2-3 for shipping.....frustrating! Still, as we all enjoy* working on cars in the rain, today was an ideal time to start bolting things back together. Pile of parts that did arrive WP_20180203_10_16_00_Rich by Matthew Leigh, on Flickr First job was fixing the central locking. Actuators are NLA but found one on ebay, loom had been chopped off so repaired with some solder sleeves WP_20180203_10_37_43_Rich by Matthew Leigh, on Flickr Fiddly job getting the handle back out the door, bolted up to the lock mechanism and then back in the door, but got there in the end and everything bolted back up. I did remember to test it worked before reassembly thankfully! WP_20180203_12_45_51_Rich by Matthew Leigh, on Flickr Next up was replacing the plastic throttle body with an alloy one - hopefully this will cure the remaining idle problems, I can't say that the plastic throttle looked warped or damaged. WP_20180203_11_46_12_Rich by Matthew Leigh, on Flickr WP_20180203_11_54_12_Rich by Matthew Leigh, on Flickr The rocker cover seemed to be leaking a bit and a new gasket was less than £2 from the local JLR specialist down the road so seemed silly not to change it. Cover was well stuck on, and took some persuasion to lift off once unbolted! WP_20180203_12_14_21_Rich by Matthew Leigh, on Flickr Quick check of the plugs whilst I was in there, nothing too alarming there WP_20180203_11_59_43_Rich by Matthew Leigh, on Flickr Quick clean and new gasket in place WP_20180203_12_15_10_Rich by Matthew Leigh, on Flickr And all back together and torqued up! WP_20180203_11_58_09_Rich by Matthew Leigh, on Flickr Last job I got done today was to finish refitting the interior. I refitted the heater motor one night during the week and tested it, so just needed to bolt everything back together. The two halves had split apart slightly and the foam dropped out, it was a bit damp and knackered (it is 20 years old) so the dangly bit went in the bin, there was only a slight leak of air into the footwell. WP_20180203_12_50_36_Rich by Matthew Leigh, on Flickr Dashboard bolted back on and door card refitted, progress! I do need to get some sealant to fix the plastic liner back behind the door card - its on there but the existing sealant is rock solid so it may well leak a bit. WP_20180203_13_13_14_Rich by Matthew Leigh, on Flickr That's probably it for this weekend whilst waiting for the exhaust. I was going to refit the manifold and the new lambda sensor but the exhaust studs didn't want to go in the manifold (down pipe end). I'm sure both the head studs and exhaust ones are M10 so not sure what I've got wrong - might just pick up a new set of studs! Rave, Lacquer Peel, UltraWomble and 6 others 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt27 Posted February 15, 2018 Author Share Posted February 15, 2018 Bugger... WP_20180215_13_48_15_Rich by Matthew Leigh, on Flickr One of the neighbours reversed into the 75 last night, at least he admitted to it unlike the previous 3(!) times our cars have been damaged since we've lived here. Seemed like a good guy, was fairly upset about his mistake. Hopefully the insurance company won't try and write it off.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
somewhatfoolish Posted February 15, 2018 Share Posted February 15, 2018 Looks like just the rear door's taken the hit; easy enough getting a door off a breaker? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Six-cylinder Posted February 15, 2018 Share Posted February 15, 2018 I have a 75 which you are welcome to take a door off. BorniteIdentity, Skizzer, strangeangel and 6 others 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BorniteIdentity Posted February 16, 2018 Share Posted February 16, 2018 Hopefully the insurance company won't try and write it off.... If you like the car, I wouldn't EVEN go there. Especially seeing as it's a fairly decent neighbour. Price up getting that door from Six Cylinder and go from there. Sneeze on a Raver 75 and it's a write off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sierraman Posted February 16, 2018 Share Posted February 16, 2018 I wouldn't get the insurance involved, it will write off damage like that. See if neighbour will settle at £150 and get a used door. stuboy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Six-cylinder Posted February 16, 2018 Share Posted February 16, 2018 Price up getting that door from Six Cylinder and go from there. Sneeze on a Raver 75 and it's a write off. I was thinking £8 for the door. As some of you may remember I was given the car by a member of this parish following it's engine locking up by swallowing water. All I had to pay for was trailer rental and fuel for my Range Rover so a million pounds is all it owes me! A local friend has taken the interior and I have not managed to salvage much for myself so just a few pounds towards my recover costs would be helpful if anybody needs anything from it. Price wise I am easy so just tell me what I am getting and I am sure we will not fall out. I plan to send it on its way in a few weeks time so anybody should say now if you want something off it. matt27, oldcars, Skizzer and 3 others 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beko1987 Posted February 16, 2018 Share Posted February 16, 2018 Plus where are you located Matt? Shitely could be sprung into action... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt27 Posted February 16, 2018 Author Share Posted February 16, 2018 Thanks all! Regarding insurance, I'm vary wary of it being written off, but ideally would like it repaired as its our "nice" car - I may well just have to do it myself though. I've asked one of my bodyshops at work for an estimate to gauge a rough amount. I had the rear quarter repaired through my insurance after someone hit it (and didn't leave any note) and was surprised that they didn't try and write it off (£900 repair). I did only authorise them to get an estimate to start with for that reason. Looking back though, that was over 2 years ago....time flies and the car will be worth even less now! beko1987Posted Today, 08:34 AMPlus where are you located Matt? Shitely could be sprung into action... I'm based in Stevenage, Herts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
320touring Posted February 16, 2018 Share Posted February 16, 2018 There's a door for £8!!! From six cyl Six-cylinder and drum 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DodgeRover Posted February 16, 2018 Share Posted February 16, 2018 I have a 75 which you are welcome to take a door off.That doesn't have the fuel burning heater fitted does it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Six-cylinder Posted February 16, 2018 Share Posted February 16, 2018 That doesn't have the fuel burning heater fitted does it? Sorry no. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now