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Daughter's Bini Cooper has been brought home from a weekend away on the back of an RAC truck.

Clutch failed at 97k

It's a 2001 car. How much do you reckon to have it fixed.???

 

Before Googling it, I would not have expected it to be less than £400.  A brief Google without looking at details or dates suggests that a BMW main dealer would be after more than £1k, while a backstreet garage using non BMW parts might charge £450 or so.  DIY probably less than £100, but think of the suffering and cursing.

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vid

 

 

 

 

looking at that , left arm , wallet rape and a lot of waiting

 

'kinnell  :shock: .  Transverse engines are a real pain - there's so much clobber to get off before even starting the clutch replacement. I've only ever done two clutches: Reliant Regal - awkward because I did not have ramps, but straightforward enough, and a Renault 12.  The R12 was not too bad either because, although front wheel drive, it had a longitudinal engine and heaps of access.

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Finally got around to getting the crankshaft position sensor out of the 214 today, with the help of some dinky flexible head ratchet thingies. Twat of a place to get access to, and very undignified in getting it out with both feet off the ground and much stabbed wrists/arms - the new qualitee tools worked spendidly.

 

I'd heard horror stories of the main plug (which has a magnetic tip on it and is next to the flywheel, with two cutouts at 180 degrees, thus the position reading) refusing to come out, but it popped out perfectly.

 

Trying to fit a non-OE replacement, however, was not so straightforward. It was clearly something like a zillionth of an inch out because it simply did not fit, no matter what I did.

 

Sighed to myself, cleaned up the old one (covered in little engine shavings), popped it back in.

 

Took it for a razz and running a lot better, not sticking at 2000rpm. Of course the proof in the pudding was, would it restart, as a failing CPS hates a hot engine. First time, no bother. Two minutes later, struggled a bit but then fired. So a slight improvement, but still not a guaranteed win.

 

Will get a proper OE one from Rimmers and replace again.

 

Also have to work out what is sapping the battery - something is (my bet is the boot light) as the battery was down to 10.8V, which ain't good at all. Luckily my conveyor belt of ready charged 063 batteries had a willing replacement.

 

Hoping this week to get it up on a lift at local garage, to see if the rumbling/resonance/vibration below 2000rpm is just the exhaust and nothing more sinister.

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I can't get Meg running right. It's smoking like a tart and is unhappy when it's cold. Redid the timing today, as last time I did it with a misfire and didn't realise it had a vacuum advance but even after that and fecking around with the carb, I was still getting fumes galore out of the back.

 

I reckon it might be time to hand it over to someone who knows what they are doing for the sake of a few quid rather than me with all the gear but no idea. Hopefully easily sorted and nothing serious.

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Went to The Range this afternoon to buy a sponge to wash the cars because I’m skint and couldn’t justify £7 each for them at the Polish wash & go. Came out £43 lighter because there was a rug Amber likes for the lounge.

 

Washed the Mini and the Golf, got dark before I could hoover them.

 

I really want to sell the Golf and get a T5 day van, I also really want to sell the Golf and get a Discovery. I’m too skint to fuel either in all honesty. Got a loan finishing this year meaning I’ll be £214 a month better off so maybe then.

Economy sponges are 50p in Halfords.

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Been attempting to do some house fettling this weekend - the storage heater in the master bedrom wouldn't turn on as the switch wouldn't budge, so I took it to bits to see what was what.  Nothing obviously stuck, and when I put it loosely back together it was switching fine, so screwed it all back to the wall and lo and behold it was stuck again.  Pressed a bit harder and the switch flicked over but felt "wrong", so back off the wall it came - turned out that by pressing hard on the switch I'd snapped off the two little spring-loaded plastic nubbins on the back of the switch rocker which move the contacts.  I think they may have been what caused the problem in the first place, as they are supposed to be spring loaded but the springs didn't seem to be doing much.  So I went out and spunked £2.79 on a replacement switch, which I'm going to wire up next weekend.  I'm not a sparky and I've never done owt with storage heaters before, but there's only six wires so WCPGW (apart from burning the house down obvs)?

 

Took the battery off the Audi and put it on charge as it's going in to have its tracking done first thing tomorrow.  Battery back on the car and it only just managed to fire up from cold, so I think the battery has had it.  I swapped it with the battery off the Rover of Doom which is a similar-ish size, and it's fine now.  The Rover won't even attempt to start on the Audi's battery, which suggests that the Audi is a better starter in cold weather - I think the Rover could probably do with a set of glowplugs, I did them a couple of years ago but they were cheap eBay jobs and I don't think they last very long.

 

The Lancia had been worrying me a bit as it had been losing a significant amount of coolant the last few times I took it out, which is rarely a good sign.  However a bit of poking around revealed that the culprit was a jubilee clip on one of the coolant pipes which had rusted through and given up the ghost - obviously it was one of the least accessible ones, but after a fun half hour of crawling around under the car on the freezing cold ground it's now been replaced with a nice shiny new stainless steel clip, and normal service will hopefully now be resumed.

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Don't suppose anyone on this fine forum is planning on selling an E36 this year? 6 cylinder preferred....

No rush at all, just want one to pair my E34.

I think I've gone the longest without buying a car since early 2017 now. Is that good or bad?!

Speak to Supernaught.

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I dare not watch. Cavalier was a 30 minute job. Why aren't all gearboxes like the Vauxhall F16-5

2 quotes this morning.

 

£425 Done on Thursday. (Probably means it will be done on Friday)

Or

£500 We'll bring it in Tomorrow and as soon as there's a space on the lift we will do it. We have someone off sick but he should be back tomorrow. (I don't like the vagueness)

 

Have dealt with both previously and feel that the 1st is a better bet, regardless of price.

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Clutch on my Maxi was about a five minute job from memory - but that was when we still had the whole gearbag under the engine (rather than off one end) thing.

But the General Motors gearboxes from the 80s and nineties had an access plate and could be done fairly quickly.

There was a shaft that had to be pulled out at one end of the gearbox which meant removing a wheel.

It makes me erm......shudder to think how far we have regressed.

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trouble with Bini's is they can take up a ramp ,

 

once the stripdown starts the car cant be moved for ages ,

 

and if they need to order more parts , then the ramp is locked to that job

 

saw one that locked a ramp for nearly 2 weeks , and it held up all the other jobs .

 

so some garages are "careful" about taking on the work

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Don't suppose anyone on this fine forum is planning on selling an E36 this year? 6 cylinder preferred....

 

No rush at all, just want one to pair my E34.

 

 

I think I've gone the longest without buying a car since early 2017 now. Is that good or bad?!

SWOP 4 VOLVO 850

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vid

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0bzOCWOmvgk

 

 

looking at that , left arm , wallet rape and a lot of waiting

Remember doing the clutch on my mates Metro. Drove down to his house ( a mile or so away, but he had no tools) about 6 ish. Striped it out, drove to Halfrauds (closed at 8pm), bought parts. Answered phone, drove to Meadowhell, unlocked steering clamp ( Mrs BMH had fitted it without checking there was a key on her keyring to release it). Drove back (28 minutes in total, trust me), finished job, in pub by 9 ...
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Waggle the auto selector. It might think it's not in park.

 

 

Good save. Your car never presented a problem with the park inhibitor switch but that will afflict them all at some point. On X300s the P on park must illuminate before you try starting the engine. Otherwise it work turn over. This is much more obvious in the dark. So if anyone suddenly sees their X300 suddenly not turn over, the last the P symbol on the gear selector illuminates and wiggle till it does if not.

 

Take a bow gents (And Hooli, who I can't quote as it's on another page)  got petrol on the way home from the same fucking Tesco driving home tonight and guess what, car won't start. Got out to check the battery again, connections seem fine so jumped back in puzzled and these posts came into my head, check the gear selector and P isn't lit up, a wee shoogle and it's lit, turn key and start. Looks like I'll need to replace the inhibitor switch.

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But the General Motors gearboxes from the 80s and nineties had an access plate and could be done fairly quickly.

There was a shaft that had to be pulled out at one end of the gearbox which meant removing a wheel.

It makes me erm......shudder to think how far we have regressed.

We did one in about an hour - which was slow.

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Anybody have experience of Maxxis van tyres?

 

New tyres are needed for the Dispatch I’ve been offered a set at the right price. Van tyres are preferable but the 195/70 x 14 size is not popular these days and pickings are slim. I do want to keep it on 14’s though, it seems to look right.

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Take a bow gents (And Hooli, who I can't quote as it's on another page)  got petrol on the way home from the same fucking Tesco driving home tonight and guess what, car won't start. Got out to check the battery again, connections seem fine so jumped back in puzzled and these posts came into my head, check the gear selector and P isn't lit up, a wee shoogle and it's lit, turn key and start. Looks like I'll need to replace the inhibitor switch.

I think this blue Monday business affects Jags too, since I had my turquoise XJR discrace itself today and just die on the road. Lucky for me it happened a few hundred yards from home. I have got particularly used to the park P symbol not illuminating on the turquoise car, although now that I am very aware of it I only need to move the gear selector a very small slight amount to get it working. I don’t think you have to jump to buying anew inhibitor switch, there is likely some ability to adjust it.

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