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Stupid Question Amnesty


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#16741 OFFLINE   Stanky

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Posted 10 January 2018 - 08:40 PM

What are the best mechanics gloves to get for under, say, £15?

 

I found a pair of fabric gloves in a car i bought once, the fabric is thin and then have a sort of rubberised/nitrile texture on the palm side so you can grip things. they are quite thin so you can feel what you are doing - and stretchy, though being the 'medium' size, and me being a fat-handed twat they are a bit snug. Large, or XL would be better I think.

 

I've managed to coat them in loads of grot and repeatedly stabbed myself through the fabric and coating and they are now falling apart.

 

I want to replace them, as especially in the winter they are a godsend for keeping your hands warm as you work on cars, and also allow you to grip things like tiny components well - whereas bare skin goes dry and things can't be gripped as easily.

 

what do people suggest? Something like these?

 

https://www.justwork...bly-Grip-Gloves

 

Are Mechanix gloves any good? They look a bit too bulky for what I want


1996 Nissan Almera GX (departed)
2003 Toyota Yaris
2004 SAAB 9-3

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#16742 OFFLINE   SiC

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Posted 10 January 2018 - 09:45 PM

I walked into the garage to finish off the carbs to suddenly have inspiration for my Distributor test setup. A quick lash-up made this perfectly safe* setup:
9bb8e2e4d44ed307c16c5e6e5dd6bcf2.jpg

It works surprisingly well! I get 4000rpm and it draws 10.5A @ 10.69v (battery voltage sagging from the current demand) when spinning the distributor.

The motor is for starting RC plane glow engines and so readily available. It's designed to be pushed against a propeller spinner on the front of a model. Like this:
starting-and-rc-airplane-10.jpg

Usually the rubber bit sits inside the pulley bit and you push it on. Trying that it more often than not flicked off the distributor. I found it worked better by putting the rubber cone on the end of the distributor and pushing that into the end.

Got to think of a slightly more positive way of mounting it but it's a start. Might be possible to replace the pulley with a chuck of some sort maybe?
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Current Fleet:
1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
2007 Honda Civic EX CTDi - The reliable runner that is like the family pet.
2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying


My history: 2003 Clio II 1.2 16v (First car), 2003 Honda Civic 3dr 1.7 CTDi (Isuzu lump), 1992 Mazda MX5 1.6, 2005 Mazda RX8 192bhp, 2005 Saab 9-3 1.9TiD 150bhp, 2007 Honda Civic 2.2 CTDi, 2004 Renault Scenic 1.6 Auto (Now Kiltox FiL), 2004 Saab 9-5 2.3t (Now Hooli), 2004 Smart Roadster 80bhp
Wife history (that she used/owned but I had frequent use of): 2002 Renault Clio II 1.2 16v (Billabong!), 2006 Mazda MX5 1.8, 2004 VW Golf 1.6 FSI, 2005 Renault Scenic II 2.0 (went bad from the drive back when buying it!), 2002 Vauxhall Astra 1.6 16v (now phil_lihp ex-colleague), 2005 Renault Laguna II v6 (Now angle)

#16743 OFFLINE   catsinthewelder

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Posted 12 January 2018 - 09:01 PM

Last year the Disastra scraped though the emmissions by the skin of its teeth,  since then it has started using a bit of oil.  Is there any point in taking it for a test?


96 Disastra Estate in Vulgalours hat purple
94 Peugeot 405 Estate
93 Land Rover Discovery 200TDI

#16744 OFFLINE   cobblers

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Posted 12 January 2018 - 09:07 PM

Try it. You never know how friendly the tester will be.

#16745 OFFLINE   Asimo

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Posted 12 January 2018 - 09:10 PM

I walked into the garage to finish off the carbs to suddenly have inspiration for my Distributor test setup. A quick lash-up made this perfectly safe* setup:https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2018011...
It works surprisingly well! I get 4000rpm and it draws 10.5A @ 10.69v (battery voltage sagging from the current demand) when spinning the distributor.
The motor is for starting RC plane glow engines and so readily available. It's designed to be pushed against a propeller spinner on the front of a model. Like this:http://www.controlchat.com/wp-content/ga...
Usually the rubber bit sits inside the pulley bit and you push it on. Trying that it more often than not flicked off the distributor. I found it worked better by putting the rubber cone on the end of the distributor and pushing that into the end.
Got to think of a slightly more positive way of mounting it but it's a start. Might be possible to replace the pulley with a chuck of some sort maybe?


Stick with the rubber drive. It is asking for trouble to solid drive because it is so difficult to get both shafts parallel and concentric. If you "solidly" mount the distributor and motor to timber with cable ties or jubilee clips, packing pieces etc that should be stable enough with the rubber drive.
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#16746 OFFLINE   Talbot

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Posted 12 January 2018 - 09:10 PM

Last year the Disastra scraped though the emmissions by the skin of its teeth,  since then it has started using a bit of oil.  Is there any point in taking it for a test?

Take the air filter out.


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#16747 OFFLINE   catsinthewelder

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Posted 12 January 2018 - 09:15 PM

Worth a try isn't it,  I'll find a place that does free retests so I don't have to fix everything else first.


96 Disastra Estate in Vulgalours hat purple
94 Peugeot 405 Estate
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#16748 OFFLINE   Mally

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Posted 12 January 2018 - 09:16 PM

What are the best mechanics gloves to get for under, say, £15?

 

 

 

https://www.toolstat...p51069?table=no

 

Something like these. Last quite a while as long as you don't weld.

I buy mine from Autojumbles 3 for £2



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#16749 OFFLINE   Stanky

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Posted 12 January 2018 - 09:31 PM

Thankee kindly - exactly what I was after. I need to go to TS this weekend anyway to get my mingebag free screenwash concentrate so that gives a reason to be there.


1996 Nissan Almera GX (departed)
2003 Toyota Yaris
2004 SAAB 9-3

198? Jago Geep

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#16750 OFFLINE   Bren

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Posted 12 January 2018 - 09:34 PM

At least it has'nt deadlocked (yet).
If I lock it with the fob doors lock but then rear o/s passenger door unlocks.
If I use switch on driver's panel all doors lock and unlock normally.

I am perplexed.

#16751 OFFLINE   DodgeRover

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Posted 12 January 2018 - 09:36 PM

Last year the Disastra scraped though the emmissions by the skin of its teeth, since then it has started using a bit of oil. Is there any point in taking it for a test?


Yes take it in nice and warm, a decent service would help too.
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#16752 OFFLINE   HarmonicCheeseburger

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Posted 12 January 2018 - 10:52 PM

I think the Micra uses H4 bulbs, looking to get some LED ones, anyone got any suggestions?


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#16753 OFFLINE   cobblers

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Posted 12 January 2018 - 11:01 PM

I think the Micra uses H4 bulbs, looking to get some LED ones, anyone got any suggestions?


Don't.

If you want to see better at night you need to make sure the headlamps are in good order (decent reflectors and clean lenses) then buy quality bulbs and make sure the bulbs are getting the power they should - 12v at the connector etc.

LED/HID drop in replacements are absolutely no good, especially in H4 lamps. They'll dazzle the shit out of everyone on dip and full beam won't be any better.
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#16754 OFFLINE   Hooli

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Posted 13 January 2018 - 12:05 AM

Disagree.

 

I've got a LED replacement H4 in my GSX14, it's much better than the normal light & has a decent cut off when aimed at a wall. Passes MOTs too. The difference is I can see were I'm going at night now. Can't recall the make though sorry.



#16755 OFFLINE   egg

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Posted 13 January 2018 - 12:00 PM

From what I read online the 652cc 2 cylinder Citroen engine (with electronic ignition) is/was seen as quite an improvement over the 602cc unit. Anyone want to inform me otherwise?


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#16756 ONLINE   wuvvum

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Posted 13 January 2018 - 12:34 PM

LED H4s can be good, depending on the design.  If they are designed with thin rows of COB LEDs very close to where the filaments would be on a halogen bulb, they should be OK.  The problem is that a lot of the cheaper bulbs have bigger LEDs plastered all over the outside of what would be the quartz casing on a halogen bulb, and therefore the light output is far too diffused and the beam pattern will be shite.


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#16757 OFFLINE   Talbot

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Posted 13 January 2018 - 12:45 PM

LED H4s can be good, depending on the design.

This.  The difference between cheap shit filament lamps and expensive decent ones is noticeable, but not massive.

 

The difference between cheap shit LED lamps and expensive decent onces is several orders of magnitude.  Goes for household LEDs as well as automotive ones too.


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#16758 OFFLINE   chaseracer

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Posted 13 January 2018 - 05:16 PM

When reconnecting a battery, is it -ve then +ve or the other way round?  However I do it, there's a flash and smoke comes out of the alternator.

 

I'm having a cup of tea instead.


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#16759 OFFLINE   bunglebus

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Posted 13 January 2018 - 05:18 PM

+ive first, -ive last - but neither should cause the alternator to smoke!


Plain spotter


#16760 OFFLINE   DodgeRover

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Posted 13 January 2018 - 06:56 PM

+ve first if you are working on a negative earth vehicle as you have less chance of creating a direct short to earth with the spanner hitting the bodywork.
Other way around for +ve earth
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#16761 OFFLINE   Mally

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Posted 13 January 2018 - 07:01 PM

But if it smokes just put the one on.



#16762 OFFLINE   Pillock

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Posted 13 January 2018 - 09:54 PM

A flash from where, the battery terminals or the alternator?

 

Flash from the terminal means something is drawing current as you connect it. A bit flash is a worry but a little spark is probably just a stereo, alarm, clock, stuff like that.

A flash from the alternator means, erm, bad things.


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#16763 OFFLINE   Des

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Posted 14 January 2018 - 12:47 AM

For all your batteries, the earth terminal, disconnect first, reconnect last. If an alternator smokes on connection, it's either fucked, or the battery is the wrong way round, and it's fucked.


Festering scum of the earth, yer motoring public.

#16764 OFFLINE   neil1971

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Posted 14 January 2018 - 01:05 AM

My old Almera burnt a lot of oil and I didn't expect it to pass the emissions test but it did, so hopefully you may be pleasantly surprised like I was

 

Last year the Disastra scraped though the emmissions by the skin of its teeth,  since then it has started using a bit of oil.  Is there any point in taking it for a test?


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#16765 OFFLINE   burraston2006

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Posted 14 January 2018 - 10:56 AM

I know variations of this question have been asked loads of times but here goes. My boy is 17 later in the year and it's time to start think about getting wheels for him. He's going to agricultural college so would it be cheaper to insure a learner/new driver in a van/pickup or the usual shite 1st cars? If van probably thinking Berlingo/Doblo type of thing. Anyone have experience of these? Mucho Grassyass!!

#16766 ONLINE   Stroller133

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Posted 14 January 2018 - 12:03 PM

This is stupid, as I’ve already done it? My Peugeot 5008 has 3 dash lights on for auto handbrake, ABS & ESP fault. A Long shot, but I’ve decided to disconnect battery in the vague hope of resetting it. Only the positive is easily accessible so I’ve disconnected there? Is this a problem?

Sorry, hadn’t read similar recent posts.

#16767 OFFLINE   cobblers

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Posted 14 January 2018 - 12:04 PM

For all your batteries, the earth terminal, disconnect first, reconnect last. If an alternator smokes on connection, it's either fucked, or the battery is the wrong way round, and it's fucked.

 

When I used to work at Halfords, two lads fitted a battery the wrong way round on a customers newish range rover. Obviously the terminals didn't fit so one was mega overtightened and the other one hammered on to fit. Just as they finished hammering it on they noticed the plumes of smoke coming out of the alternator, but they couldn't get it back off because it was jammed on and now boiling hot as well.


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#16768 OFFLINE   cobblers

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Posted 14 January 2018 - 12:10 PM

This is stupid, as I’ve already done it? My Peugeot 5008 has 3 dash lights on for auto handbrake, ABS & ESP fault. A Long shot, but I’ve decided to disconnect battery in the vague hope of resetting it. Only the positive is easily accessible so I’ve disconnected there? Is this a problem?

Electrically it makes no difference which one you disconnect, however it's always recommended to remove the negative first because that way, if you catch the spanner between the terminal and the earthed bodywork you won't short things out.

Once the negative terminal is disconnected, move onto the positive and you've only got to worry about shorting across the battery.

 

If you can only get the positive terminal off then just be very careful, but it's unlikely to solve your problem.



#16769 ONLINE   Stroller133

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Posted 14 January 2018 - 12:23 PM

Electrically it makes no difference which one you disconnect, however it's always recommended to remove the negative first because that way, if you catch the spanner between the terminal and the earthed bodywork you won't short things out.
Once the negative terminal is disconnected, move onto the positive and you've only got to worry about shorting across the battery.

If you can only get the positive terminal off then just be very careful, but it's unlikely to solve your problem.


Been disconnected about half an hour, just put it back together and as you expected, no difference. I’ll book it into garage to be looked and hope it’s a fuse or something simple.

#16770 OFFLINE   Mally

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Posted 14 January 2018 - 03:58 PM

I know variations of this question have been asked loads of times but here goes. My boy is 17 later in the year and it's time to start think about getting wheels for him. He's going to agricultural college so would it be cheaper to insure a learner/new driver in a van/pickup or the usual shite 1st cars? If van probably thinking Berlingo/Doblo type of thing. Anyone have experience of these? Mucho Grassyass!!

Tractor :)

 

Kit Cars used to be a possibility, Quantum with a small engine, maybe, you see them on ebay advertised as cheap ins.

Years ago my son had a Dutton with a Minor 1000 engine.

I know where there's a Jago, but it's not running yet :)

Try Flux for a quote if you see a possible Kit Car.

Many put their kids on as an additional driver, but glad I didn't, he had 3 bumps in 3 months.

 

Problem with Classic ins is you tend to have to have use of another car, which nullifies things a bit.

Try a quote on this, theres a reg in the photos, give you some idea.

 

 

https://www.ebay.co....j4AAOSwk~ZZ8jJ8


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