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Ongoing adventures of a Shitestang........................


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973 replies to this topic

#241 OFFLINE   vulgalour

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Posted 22 March 2018 - 10:44 PM

If you're concerned about flames, don't do anything alone and have someone on standby ready to disconnect electrics and/or use a suitable fire extinguisher.  It probably won't be needed, but if it is then you've got it to hand immediately.

 

An extremely brief hunt online pulled up this https://www.ebay.com...-P/263546247059 which I think is what you're after?  If not, it might help find something.  From the number of results from just typing in "Mustang II Fusible Link" suggests this is a fairly common, but not terminal, problem.


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#242 Guest_Hooli_*

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Posted 22 March 2018 - 11:10 PM

The fuseable link is just a fuse that isn't in a glass or plastic case. It melts to cut the power in the event of a short.


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#243 Guest_Hooli_*

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Posted 22 March 2018 - 11:16 PM

You need a multimeter/test lamp to see if power is getting past the link anymore.



#244 Guest_Hooli_*

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Posted 22 March 2018 - 11:18 PM

i had wondered if i could just replace it with a fuse and a legth of wire? Only thing is they are don in wire gauge so need to figure out what amp fuse would be needed?

 

Probably. If you can find out the rating as you say.



#245 Guest_Hooli_*

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Posted 22 March 2018 - 11:19 PM

Have a multimeter ;)

 

Do you have 12v after the link? if so it should still be working.



#246 OFFLINE   carlo

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Posted 23 March 2018 - 10:26 AM

Have a 1974 Mustang II road test along with some other magnificence.

 

 

On a different note, many thanks for this brilliant link, and introduction to the Thames TV archive on YouTube, compulsive viewing for a 70s child!


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#247 OFFLINE   JeeExEll

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Posted 23 March 2018 - 10:45 AM

Jo, I'm just catching up on here after yesterday.

Electrical problem at the starter relay - can you post some more pics of what it looks like on the ShiteStang at the moment and any 'damage'.

Also, a step by step description of how you tried to start it. Where did you connect jump pack, how long for, did it start to smoke immediately, etc.
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#248 OFFLINE   Mally

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Posted 23 March 2018 - 12:11 PM

Don't slice anything.

Some one who knows what they are about can stick a needle in if that's whats needed.

 

Try answering JEE's step by step of what you actually did. Any burnt wires you can see?

It may be that with jump leads correctly connected it will go, but you need some one competent to be sure.

Not that I'm saying you aren't  :-D



#249 OFFLINE   cort1977

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Posted 23 March 2018 - 02:11 PM

Sounds like a good plan above but I would also charge the battery overnight with a trickle charger if possible.  Don't buy a new battery without being sure that is the fault.


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#250 OFFLINE   danthecapriman

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Posted 23 March 2018 - 02:17 PM

Luckily Jo your Stang looks like it’s got exactly the same set up as my Mercury does if you need reference info.

This shouldn’t be a big issue if the car was driven recently.
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#251 ONLINE   danthecapriman

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Posted 23 March 2018 - 04:46 PM

Are all the wires/solenoids terminals clean and tight? It might have been damp or corrosion or a loose terminal (or combination of those things!), possibly made worse from its time spent at sea. Once you’ve energised the system with load on the circuit maybe it was that burning off or high resistance somewhere?

When it first did it, did the starter try to turn?
Obviously smoke and burning comes from heat, so basically lots of amps. That’d only come from the starter motor pulling load as it operated or a loose poor connection somewhere.
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#252 ONLINE   danthecapriman

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Posted 23 March 2018 - 04:47 PM

Bit wary of charging the battery we live in a teeny weeny flat its either charge in in the main room with us or not as all,near the door out onto the street we dont have a garage.
Still not sure do i need to pop the caps when charging these older style batteries?
I fear it going Kaboom with gasses as the posts are right next to the capped cells that will be gassing :(
Advice needed?????????????????????????


If it’s an old battery, loosen the little plugs to vent the gas while on charge. Do it outside or near an open door or window.
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#253 ONLINE   DodgeRover

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Posted 23 March 2018 - 04:49 PM

Also disconnect the existing battery negative lead and play with the ignition switch until you know which key fits etc. make sure it's turning smoothly and springs back from the start position.
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#254 OFFLINE   DodgeRover

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Posted 24 March 2018 - 06:12 PM

If those caps are removeable you should really take them off while charging the battery


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#255 OFFLINE   danthecapriman

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Posted 24 March 2018 - 06:26 PM

Great progress Jo.

It’s funny seeing these cars when they’re fresh off the boat, you can find some interesting things in them.
In mine I’ve found a huge cash of nuts and shells in the battery tray from a septic squirrel. Loads of weird hornet nests complete with dried out hornet corpses. Easy start and loads of Rockauto fridge magnets under the seat.
I’ve heard of a revolver being found under the seat of an imported yank too! Keep digging!

The battery leads you can buy new complete leads for most old yanks on Rockauto too. Mine were all hard and falling apart so I just bought new ones.
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#256 OFFLINE   DodgeRover

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Posted 24 March 2018 - 07:26 PM

Complete new leads from beal workshop supplies are sensibly priced

#257 ONLINE   PhilA

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Posted 25 March 2018 - 04:37 AM

Oh.. if that's what happened then just replace the fusible link wire.

Can you get 14AWG links there? From memory Escorts and Orions had them also in the harness, may be available from Ford if nowhere else local?
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#258 ONLINE   Steve79

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Posted 25 March 2018 - 08:03 AM

Something like this should work

https://rover.ebay.c...tm/201689795460
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#259 OFFLINE   Jim Bell

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Posted 25 March 2018 - 08:59 AM

I thought the FIRST thing you did after buying an Mercin car was to do a dang burnout.

Thats at the wheels, not in the wires.

Looking forward to updates.
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#260 ONLINE   andy18s

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Posted 25 March 2018 - 09:34 AM

You may to give the battery a kicking with an old school charger,which just push in a charge without any of this fancy monitering/maintainence malarkey.....
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#261 ONLINE   Bren

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Posted 25 March 2018 - 09:45 AM

Budget for a new battery just in case -11.8 v means it was practically dead. You may save it though.
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#262 OFFLINE   DodgeRover

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Posted 25 March 2018 - 10:30 AM

Over a few months the clock etc would run the battery down, try leaving it on the charger for a week or so

#263 ONLINE   panhard65

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Posted 25 March 2018 - 10:32 AM

 
Yes if need be Sam said she would buy me one,I had wondered if it had just gone flat because of being in a container in the cold for 2 months? My Merc battery once went dont to 10v because of the failed Alternator,once replaced that battery lived and still does ;)

I would just fit a new battery as the chances of it having a good battery on it by the time it got on the boat are slim. Lets face it we would all put a crap battery on a car we were selling for export. Also how did it go flat ? Probably due to the short so it was very lucky it didn't catch fire when that happened. When you connect the new battery there may be a small spark as you connect the earth lead which is normal with a modern anything more than that and the dead short is still there. You could put an ohm meter between the positive battery lead and earth just to make sure there isn't a dead short before connecting the battery.


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#264 OFFLINE   Junkman

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Posted 25 March 2018 - 12:00 PM

Is it running yet?


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#265 ONLINE   Junkman

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Posted 25 March 2018 - 12:14 PM

Put in a new battery, turn ignition switch to ignition on, bridge the two big stalks on the starter solenoid

with a big screwdriver you don't need anymore and listen to the tchichichichi-rudduruddurudduruddu...

 

It's a bloody yank Ford, for God's sake, not a fucking Stradivarius.


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#266 ONLINE   Dave_Q

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Posted 25 March 2018 - 12:47 PM

I was just thinking that in the short term I would definitely replace the fusable link with either a normal battery cable or something with a maxi fuse in it.

Someone here must know enough electro-maths to work out what a 14gauge link translates to in amps?
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#267 OFFLINE   JeeExEll

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Posted 25 March 2018 - 01:23 PM

Lifted directly from t'net. General 12V car, truck, etc. Not marque-specific.

"Wire size current table:
18 gauge wire = 5-8 amps
16 gauge wire = 10-12 amps
14 gauge wire = 15-17 amps
12 gauge wire = 20-25 amps
10 gauge wire = 30-40 amps
8 gauge wire = 50-60 amps.

Fusible link colors
20 Gauge Blue
18 Gauge Brown or Red
16 Gauge Black or Orange
14 Gauge Green
12 Gauge Gray"

The info has no reference date so it's likely to be more recent than 1975. But we know a replacement fuselink rated for 14 gauge is needed regardless of colour code.

Put a multimeter across it anyway to see if it's blown, it might still be usable short-term.

As you've already mentioned, it would be really useful to have a word with a tame local auto-electrician to get things moving.
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#268 OFFLINE   danthecapriman

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Posted 25 March 2018 - 09:19 PM

Lob on a known good battery and give it a go! Can’t do that much damage...
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1974 Ford Capri 1.6 L
1984 Ford Transit 2.0 100L LWB high roof
1988 Volvo 740 2.3 GLE estate

#269 OFFLINE   danthecapriman

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Posted 25 March 2018 - 09:46 PM

The number of the beast!


And watch where you put your fingers. Some of them yankee spiders can be dangerous! And the snakes! Maybe one of them hitched a ride over too?
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1984 Ford Transit 2.0 100L LWB high roof
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#270 OFFLINE   Jim Bell

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Posted 25 March 2018 - 10:05 PM



Its called a trunk Woody.
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