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Ongoing adventures of a Shitestang........................


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#271 OFFLINE   xtriple

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Posted 25 March 2018 - 10:08 PM

666 is a mis read of the re,evant chaptor, it's actually 616 so you're fine :)


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#272 OFFLINE   Junkman

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Posted 26 March 2018 - 08:46 AM

Is it running yet?


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#273 OFFLINE   MorrisItalSLX

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Posted 26 March 2018 - 11:25 AM

*Drum roll please*

 

Capture.PNG

 

http://www.mustangsu...ransmission.axd


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#274 ONLINE   egg

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Posted 26 March 2018 - 11:39 AM

Good spot, also on the bay of e (.com)

 

https://www.ebay.com...XkAAOSwf-xZpziK


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#275 OFFLINE   Junkman

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Posted 26 March 2018 - 01:21 PM

I have a sneaking suspicion though that the Ignition swich is also iffy may have been in two possitions at once?
 

 

Whack some WD 40 in it, this may also help with being able to get the key out morer easiererly.

I think the '74s are already interlocked, i.e. you can only get the key out when the gearbox selector is on 'P'.

Make sure the selector is firmly on 'P' when starting. I have a suspicion your NSABULS is a bit iffy/misaligned.

Theoretically you should also be able to start it in 'N', but this hardly ever works on old chod.

Do the reverse lights come one when you shift into 'R' with the ignition on?

 

 

Is it running yet?


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#276 ONLINE   Jim Bell

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Posted 01 April 2018 - 08:24 AM

Thats the spirit!
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#277 ONLINE   eddyramrod

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Posted 01 April 2018 - 08:35 AM

What time can I pick it up?


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GLWTS everyone!

 

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#278 OFFLINE   Mrs6C

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Posted 01 April 2018 - 08:53 AM

Just got to get a new Battery now ;)

Mind you I could do with a Transmission Shifter Bezel!

Damned You California Sun!

If you want to keep the original with its wood finish, you could have a go at gluing the portions of that bezel back together.

 

Clean it all up first with an old toothbrush and some Mr Muscle or similar. Use Araldite applied with a cocktail stick or fine paintbrush for the glue. Shape and glue in flat, thin pieces of something rigid across the 'joints' on the back of it, to give it some bracing. If there are any missing bits when all the piece are back together, fill/build up the gaps with Araldite, smooth it off while it is setting and touch in with paint when dry.

 

Then, when refitting it, go easy on tightening the screws, to reduce stress on it. Once it's back in place, it should be OK.


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#279 OFFLINE   MorrisItalSLX

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Posted 01 April 2018 - 12:30 PM

Having no luck right now so have decided to sell the car :(

At least I owned one........................................



 

 

 

I regret to inform all those intersted in the vehicle that I have withdrawn it from sale. The Deadline was 12 mid day.....................................................

 

That was cruel.  :-(


46166620385_56a84bf2c5_o.jpg


#280 OFFLINE   danthecapriman

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Posted 01 April 2018 - 12:58 PM

Err....................Progress!!!I will just leave this here............................
https://www.youtube....eature=youtu.be


Seems to spin over well enough. There must be something very basic missing, fuel or spark?

Do the plugs get wet after all the cranking?
I had similar frustrations with mine when the condenser fucked up. Loads of cranking, fuel in the filter but no firing. Changed the condenser for a new one which was shit straight out the box!
I bet it’s something similar on yours.
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#281 OFFLINE   DodgeRover

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Posted 01 April 2018 - 01:04 PM

Flirt some easy start into the air intake or take the top off the filter and put you hand over the carb mouth while cranking and that will start
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#282 OFFLINE   anonymous user

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Posted 01 April 2018 - 01:42 PM

I regret to inform all those intersted in the vehicle that I have withdrawn it from sale. The Deadline was 12 mid day.....................................................



Bah! April Foul
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#283 OFFLINE   They_all_do_that_sir

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Posted 01 April 2018 - 02:11 PM

Great stuff - I keep coming back to this thread hoping for the sound of a V8 and today I am not disappoint

Sent from my F3211 using Tapatalk
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#284 Guest_Hooli_*

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Posted 01 April 2018 - 02:21 PM

Is it MOT'd yet?


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#285 OFFLINE   danthecapriman

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Posted 01 April 2018 - 02:30 PM

Fabulous!

Lights shouldn’t be a big deal. At least yours has the rear amber lense ready for an indicator. Mine didn’t (all red) which meant I had to opt for a high intensity amber LED shining through the original red lense.
I did the US to UK swap on my Volvo front lights too. It’s not hard at all!


Sounds great though doesn’t it!!
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#286 OFFLINE   Junkman

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Posted 01 April 2018 - 02:33 PM

If you'd have poured some petrol straight into the carb, it would have started immediately.


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#287 OFFLINE   Junkman

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Posted 01 April 2018 - 02:42 PM

Septic orange front sidelights must be disconnected.
The usual solution is to replace the headlights with units that have an integral sidelight, like so:
 
https://www.ebay.co....as/282619603901
s-l1600.jpg

 

This will also solve your left vs. right dip problem.


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#288 OFFLINE   Junkman

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Posted 01 April 2018 - 02:52 PM

I mean, how often do I have to explain this?

 

From model year 1940 until the late Eighties, yank cars had to have federal spec STANDARDISED Sealed Beam headlights.

 

They only came in four flavours:

 

Two round 7" units.

Four round 5 1/4" units.

Two large rectangular units.

Four small rectangular units.

 

Look at any picture of an American car built between 1940 and 1989 and you will see one of these STANDARDISED combinations up front.

For all of them E-marked replacements exist, since many European countries outlaw Sealed Beams on a general basis.

 

I explained the sidelight issue above.

 

Now, next.

 

The rear red side marker lights must be disconnected.

 

Seeing it has orange indicators at the rear, I guess you don't have to separate brake and indicators, it's already done.

What happens when you switch on the four way hazards and step on the brake?


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#289 OFFLINE   Christine

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Posted 02 April 2018 - 09:01 AM

Fabulous!

Lights shouldn’t be a big deal. At least yours has the rear amber lense ready for an indicator. Mine didn’t (all red) which meant I had to opt for a high intensity amber LED shining through the original red lense.
I did the US to UK swap on my Volvo front lights too. It’s not hard at all!


Sounds great though doesn’t it!!

 

A Green bulb through a red lens will show as  Amber too ,

 

Sounds fantastic Jo  :-D


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#290 OFFLINE   danthecapriman

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Posted 02 April 2018 - 09:21 AM

Trying to figure out why Shitestang wont run now?
It ran fine than we shut it off,the taped up fusible link was in danger of getting caught in the hood when closing so we tucked it under a pipe. After that it refused to start :(
To my understanding now that fusible link protects just the alternator and its all starting to become clear.................
If the jumpstarter was fully charged it was probably an anternator overload which is why it melted to protect the alternator?
Which begs the question whould it even effect starting then? I assume if it was burnt out the system just wouldnt charge?
Truth is up until we moved that link it started now it wont its just the solenoid clicking :(
Battery has a healthy voltage,starter is supposidly new wouldnt of thought I had locked the engine? Bloody hope not :(
I do winder if it has a dodgy starter inhibitor on the auto trans ? the shift lever is as wobbly as a wino :(
Any ideas?
Failing continuing No Start I may try to figure out today what still works and what doesnt? Lights,Wipers,Washers,Horn etc
Herr Junkman to the Lighting Department Amber Phone Please!
Are the side markers at the front the Ambers ones just supposed to be on all the time or flash?
If the rear side markers are like Sams on the 05 Mustang they are on all the time the lights are on but act as side brake lights too!
Strange you say I must disconnect them as Sams are still connected and its passed 9 MOT's that way! Strange but true!!


The lights, do as Junkman says. Get a RHD replacement headlamp with combined sidelight bulb. Your original round headlights will be LHD sealed beam bulbs - hence they have no sidelight built in. The US sidelight will be an amber separate light elsewhere on the car.
You can’t use these as sidelights in this country because you can not have an amber sidelight here!

If you use a combined headlight/sidelight unit then you just need to wire your sidelight into the that instead of how it is now.
Then you can use the old amber US sidelight as an indicator since it’s already the correct colour.

On my Mercury this is how it has been done. RHD round headlight (dip) with combined sidelight. Full beam is still the old US sealed beam (no need to convert on my car as I have four headlights and full beam has no beam pattern). The old US sidelight on the very ends of the front wings is now the indicator, mine is clear lense so now uses an amber bulb.


On the back it’s a similar story, you just can not have an amber sidelight. But the indicator must shine amber light not red.
Your car has the correct coloured lenses already (mine didn’t - all red!) so you should just be able to swap a few things around to get the full compliment of UK legal lights.
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#291 OFFLINE   danthecapriman

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Posted 02 April 2018 - 09:34 AM

914A530E-9D4C-4BCE-B72E-2FD5B722DEAE.jpeg

I can’t find any pics of the Mercury with it’s lights on but here’s my US spec Volvo.

In the US the headlights come as square sealed beam units. The inner light is the full beam, outer is dip beam.
The amber light on the outer side would be the sidelight and indicator, the big strip light at the bottom was the day running light.

Now here in the UK.
Dip beam sealed beam is gone, replaced by a RHD headlight with separate bulbs and combined sidelight (though I’m not using the sidelight as I’ve got extra additional lights instead!)
Sidelight is now the big strip light at the bottom, in correct white colour.
Indicator is the amber light down the side. This was unavoidable on this car as the US sidelight has a built in amber filter which can’t be removed so had to become the indicator.

All I did to convert US to UK was swap some of the light positions around and swap the dip beam light to RHD. It’s dead easy!
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1988 Volvo 740 2.3 GLE estate

#292 OFFLINE   danthecapriman

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Posted 02 April 2018 - 09:46 AM

Looking at the schematic the rear ambers are just indicators where as the fronts are parking and indicators with duel fillament blubs so i will need to seperate the wiring I guess into two seperate circuits?


I would say yes. I don’t think you can have amber parking lights here?

On the Volvo above, my white sidelight can be used as sidelight and parking light as I’ve swapped things around.
My indicators however are still using the US spec twin filament amber bulbs, but only able work as an indicator so only one filament will ever light up.
The twin filament amber bulb btw isn’t very widely available in this country! Very little use them!
1973 Mercury Marquis Brougham 429 V8
1974 Ford Capri 1.6 L
1984 Ford Transit 2.0 100L LWB high roof
1988 Volvo 740 2.3 GLE estate

#293 OFFLINE   danthecapriman

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Posted 02 April 2018 - 11:40 AM

Yes, your amber grill lights should come on solid with headlights on. They are like our sidelights but amber instead of white. When you indicate the amber light will blink instead of being on solid.

Basically you need it to not do that! You need to make it so that the amber light stays off when the headlights are switched on but still blinks when you indicate. Problem being, that doing this will leave you without any sidelight. So you need to add, somewhere, a new sidelight (in white light only). The easiest and tidiest way is doing what Junkman said and use the combined headlight and sidelight RHD replacement headlight units.

This is how a US ‘Stang should look when it’s lights are on. https://goo.gl/images/RkoqGe

I know it’s a different model Mustang but it still shows the lighting issue, which you can’t use here in the UK.
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#294 OFFLINE   Junkman

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Posted 02 April 2018 - 11:52 AM

Yes, the orange lights in the grille should be on permanently.

In America, front sidelights are orange, not white, and they are

usually combined with the indicators, hence they should also blink

when you indicate, by means of dual filament bulbs.

 

The sidelight wires must be disconnected and connected to the

integral sidelights in the replacement headlights.

 

The orange lights in the grille should henceforth only be indicators.


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#295 OFFLINE   Junkman

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Posted 02 April 2018 - 12:05 PM

Will check the fusebox later as fuse 12 is Indicators & Back Up Lights and I have neither..........................................

 

A blown bulb can cause this (don't ask). Check whether the hazard flasher works and whether all four indicators blink.

MIA reverse lights again make me think shonky NSABUL, which would explain why it only randomly starts.


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#296 OFFLINE   danthecapriman

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Posted 02 April 2018 - 12:09 PM

Think I have sussed it now ;)
Green/White wire to the back of those lights in grill is the indicator feed,Brown wire is parking lights so if I snip the Browns and join the to new headlight sidelight bulb holders i should have sidelights ;)
And leave the Green/Whites where they are should have indicators in the grill ;)
Later on for ease will probably convrt the bulb holders to signle fillament type holders but as i have a stock of dual i will just use them but just use the one fillament ;)
Will check the fusebox later as fuse 12 is Indicators & Back Up Lights and I have neither..........................................


I’m still using twin filament amber bulbs in the Volvo! I’ve got a stash of new bulbs so I’ll just keep using them. All mine does is uses only one of the two filaments now as the sidelight wires now go into the white sidelight unit instead, exactly as you suggest you’ll do on your ‘Stang.

Btw, try to get some new wire, ideally in matching colours, when you do your lights.
When I did mine, both the Mercury and Volvo, I found the old wiring in places was actually in poor condition. The insulation had cracked and split and the copper wire had corroded and starting snapping. Old age and exposure to the elements I suppose. It just really helps if you’ve got some spare wire to hand when you convert the lights over!
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1974 Ford Capri 1.6 L
1984 Ford Transit 2.0 100L LWB high roof
1988 Volvo 740 2.3 GLE estate

#297 OFFLINE   Mrs6C

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Posted 02 April 2018 - 08:09 PM

I regret to inform all those intersted in the vehicle that I have withdrawn it from sale. The Deadline was 12 mid day.....................................................

Hoorah! :-)

 

Glad you are persevering. It will all come right and then you can enjoy it properly! :-)


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#298 OFFLINE   danthecapriman

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Posted 03 April 2018 - 03:27 PM

That’s not grease. That’s probably fermented 40 year old spilled coffee and doughnuts!
Either way it’s rank!

They’ve come up nice though.
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1973 Mercury Marquis Brougham 429 V8
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1984 Ford Transit 2.0 100L LWB high roof
1988 Volvo 740 2.3 GLE estate

#299 OFFLINE   danthecapriman

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Posted 03 April 2018 - 03:51 PM

If its Coffee and Doughnuts im not eating or drinking where they did :(
Smell like Valvoline LOL!


I don’t know how people make mess like that, and even worse, leave it there.
I wouldn’t be able to sleep at night knowing there was dirt like that in my car!
1973 Mercury Marquis Brougham 429 V8
1974 Ford Capri 1.6 L
1984 Ford Transit 2.0 100L LWB high roof
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#300 OFFLINE   egg

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Posted 03 April 2018 - 05:56 PM

Jo, small updates are gr8, I've made an autoshite career* out of it. Keep it up!


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