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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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1962 Morris Minor 1000.

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214 replies to this topic

#181 OFFLINE   SiC

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Posted 21 July 2018 - 10:27 PM

I have a massive urge at the moment to buy a Minor Traveller and roadtrip it down to the south of France (or just Cornwall). Even Mrs SiC approves of a Traveller.

Maybe that's my next plan once I get bored of the MGB. Shame that the Travellers are all quite a bit of money for something that doesn't need too much work.
Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
Moderns: 2008 Audi TT - Utterly boring but very compentent, 2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying.

#182 OFFLINE   Squire_Dawson

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Posted 21 July 2018 - 10:32 PM

It will be fine if you don't mind a cruising speed of 55 MPH, noise and general discomfort. They are not long-distance cars from a comfort perspective. My advice would be to spend less on more.


Squeak, rattle and roll.

 

 

Thanks restorer.

 

Save the Pangolins.

 

Current shite:

1952 Morris Oxford Series MO - Sidevalve Shite

1959 Humber Super Snipe - Big banger

1962 Morris 1000 Traveller - English Tudorbethan

1975 Austin Allegro 1100 DL - m'Lod

 

Please look out for hedgehogs!


#183 OFFLINE   SiC

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Posted 21 July 2018 - 10:33 PM

That's a shame. To be honest my MGB would be better. Shame she hates the colour and is convinced every journey it's going to breakdown.
Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
Moderns: 2008 Audi TT - Utterly boring but very compentent, 2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying.

#184 OFFLINE   Squire_Dawson

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Posted 21 July 2018 - 10:40 PM

Don't let it stop you trying, I know the owner's club do a yearly French jaunt event. And yes, women are bizarre. Driving just one day in a modern Audi would give me the screaming ab dabs.


  • mercrocker and Junkman like this

Squeak, rattle and roll.

 

 

Thanks restorer.

 

Save the Pangolins.

 

Current shite:

1952 Morris Oxford Series MO - Sidevalve Shite

1959 Humber Super Snipe - Big banger

1962 Morris 1000 Traveller - English Tudorbethan

1975 Austin Allegro 1100 DL - m'Lod

 

Please look out for hedgehogs!


#185 OFFLINE   Conrad D. Conelrad

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Posted 21 July 2018 - 11:42 PM

That's a shame. To be honest my MGB would be better. Shame she hates the colour and is convinced every journey it's going to breakdown.

 

 

What gave her that idea?


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#186 ONLINE   Hooli

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Posted 22 July 2018 - 09:17 AM

I was going to say the MGB would be ideal, it is a GT after all.


Opinions expressed are those of this cunt, not any other cunt. They do not represent the views of those responsible for this forum.
Like any true Englishman I'm never unintentionally rude. If you're offended by this post, good as that is what was intended.

 


#187 OFFLINE   SiC

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Posted 22 July 2018 - 09:36 AM

What gave her that idea?


After a diet of well maintained moderns, the single time she towed me and the car back late last year. Seems to be permitted etched in her mind. Didn't help that after fixing that fault and me proclaiming that it was all good, I took it to work. It then broke down again.
  • Junkman likes this
Oldies: 1972 Austin 1100 2dr - Project Rust bucket, 1974 MGB GT - A stereotypical classic car.
Moderns: 2008 Audi TT - Utterly boring but very compentent, 2010 Aldi A4 - Owned to placate the wife on my crap buying.

#188 OFFLINE   Squire_Dawson

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Posted 30 July 2018 - 06:46 PM

Okay, things are getting serious now. Or, at least as serious as a light restoration can be, given that some blokes completely strip and rebuild these cars from the ground up. I removed the reflectors and light units to be able to sand down the area. As alluded to, these are the early flat lens lamps which double up as indicators. Rear doors will also probably be coming off too.

 

IMG_3973.JPG

 

It was just a matter of releasing the 3 screws,

 

IMG_3969.JPG

 

and disconnecting the wires at the loom inside the car to give me the slack necessary to pull through. I also had to remove the bell-mouth clips.

 

IMG_3971.JPG

 

Then I could withdraw the unit far enough to disconnect it. I like these push-in connections as they are nice and simple.

 

IMG_3972.JPG

 

Next I set about removing the nearside rear wing, which was already slightly loose. I undid the remaining screws, most just twisted their captive nuts and brought the lot out; only two undid as they were meant to. That's fair enough, I was expecting worse given it's a wheelarch.

 

IMG_3974.JPG

 

Some pretty impressive mud cake going on here!

 

IMG_3975.JPG

 

I was hoping to re-use the wing but now I'm not so sure as some of the flange has rotted away and may not be repairable.

 

IMG_3976.JPG

 

The car was undersealed when new (the receipt for this is present) and that had undoubtedly helped preserve the car all these years. I will scrape the remainder off and treat the inner arches again, first with rust neutraliser, then several coats of paint and finally waxoyl.

 

IMG_3977.JPG

 

I can only use the power sander in shifts as it gives me the shakes and I struggled to take steady photos!

Oh, and the My Classic Tire is a Pirelli Cinturato 155 SR 14.


  • vulgalour, mercrocker, Junkman and 6 others like this

Squeak, rattle and roll.

 

 

Thanks restorer.

 

Save the Pangolins.

 

Current shite:

1952 Morris Oxford Series MO - Sidevalve Shite

1959 Humber Super Snipe - Big banger

1962 Morris 1000 Traveller - English Tudorbethan

1975 Austin Allegro 1100 DL - m'Lod

 

Please look out for hedgehogs!


#189 ONLINE   Momentary Lapse Of Reason

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Posted 30 July 2018 - 07:28 PM

That wing looks like it is only the mounting flange that needs repair by welding.
Not that difficult a repair.
Seems a shame not to attempt to repair it!
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#190 OFFLINE   Squire_Dawson

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Posted 02 August 2018 - 04:15 PM

That wing looks like it is only the mounting flange that needs repair by welding.
Not that difficult a repair.
Seems a shame not to attempt to repair it!

 

Yes indeed. I've asked a mate to see what can be done (I can't weld, unfortunately).

 

The tedious job of restoring the ash frame continues. I took the wheel off to gain better access and struggled with the wheel nuts, which are a really odd size. None of my sockets or ring spanners fit with the result of some head roundage and swearing. I just had to persevere with the staring handle-cum-wheelbrace and rubber mallet. I found the drum retaining screws slightly loose so I decided to take the drum off just for a nosey. I knew the brakes had been overhauled already. I asked an assistant to press the brake pedal so I could observe the wheel cylinder operate, which was fine.

 

IMG_3991.JPG

 

I wiped it and the drum over and put it all back together then covered it with newspaper to stop debris from the other work falling in. I removed the wing plastic beading and began to scrape off all the rubbish left behind.

 

IMG_3992.JPG

 

Although the wood looks rotten here its actually quite solid and I'm content to leave it alone. I hoicked a few loose chunks out though to prevent further rot. I think the angle grinder will need to come out to cut back this previous welded repair; I can see rust underneath and I'd like to get inside and paint what I can before spraying it all with cavity wax. As we know all too well, cars rust from the inside out, and it's not a job I want to be doing very much at all in the future. So I might as well see to it now.


  • Skizzer, DeeJay, vulgalour and 5 others like this

Squeak, rattle and roll.

 

 

Thanks restorer.

 

Save the Pangolins.

 

Current shite:

1952 Morris Oxford Series MO - Sidevalve Shite

1959 Humber Super Snipe - Big banger

1962 Morris 1000 Traveller - English Tudorbethan

1975 Austin Allegro 1100 DL - m'Lod

 

Please look out for hedgehogs!


#191 OFFLINE   mercrocker

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Posted 02 August 2018 - 04:27 PM

Pretty much the same sort of state as my rear inner wheel arch.   Except I didn't have wood to contend with!   Think you definitely do need to see inside there....Its remarkable how many shabby Travellers are still giving good service - my friend's GF has one very similar which trundles up to Norfolk from Brighton pretty regularly.


  • Squire_Dawson likes this

1963 Morry Thou

1955 Cowley

1987 VW T25 Holdsworth

1990 190E

197? Portafold Caravan 

2000 Fiesta Zetec Ghia

 


#192 OFFLINE   Squire_Dawson

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Posted 02 August 2018 - 04:40 PM

Pretty much the same sort of state as my rear inner wheel arch.   Except I didn't have wood to contend with!   Think you definitely do need to see inside there....Its remarkable how many shabby Travellers are still giving good service - my friend's GF has one very similar which trundles up to Norfolk from Brighton pretty regularly.

 

Aye, they are jolly little cars. The wood is a lot more substantial than I expected, some sections are quite hefty. I hope your shite-fixing mojo returns soon mate. I know how it feels when you just keep uncovering horror after horror.


Squeak, rattle and roll.

 

 

Thanks restorer.

 

Save the Pangolins.

 

Current shite:

1952 Morris Oxford Series MO - Sidevalve Shite

1959 Humber Super Snipe - Big banger

1962 Morris 1000 Traveller - English Tudorbethan

1975 Austin Allegro 1100 DL - m'Lod

 

Please look out for hedgehogs!


Thanked by 1 Member:
mercrocker

#193 OFFLINE   Junkman

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Posted 02 August 2018 - 04:47 PM

After a diet of well maintained moderns, the single time she towed me and the car back late last year. Seems to be permitted etched in her mind. Didn't help that after fixing that fault and me proclaiming that it was all good, I took it to work. It then broke down again.

 

Well, she either accompanies you in the OMGMGBGTBYMG, or she stays home.

 

Or am I underthinking this?


1967 Renault 16 GL.....................................now with new exhaust that doesn't work

1979 Mobylette AV89.........................................................................running

1992 Mercedes 230E.............................................Fucking Fourbanger Führerwagen

1997 Peugeot 405 2.0 Executive Estate..............................now with aircon and brakes


#194 OFFLINE   Squire_Dawson

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Posted 14 August 2018 - 05:45 PM

After many hours of sanding I was relieved to be ready to apply the wood preserver. It was a long, laborious task to sand all surfaces back to bare wood, some of which had to be done by hand. I was also apprehensive about pulling the side windows out, as I didn't want to damage anything, but it turned out to be reasonably straightforward - I only destroyed one screw in the process. From what I have seen dismantling the car, I honestly believe the windows have never been out since it was assembled in 1962, and remarkably the wood in the water channels where the windows sit is suffering only localised rot, which is fixable. I am glad I took the windows and runners out, as it allows for a thorough job. I really don't want to be doing a job of this magnitude for a long time!

 

IMG_4020.JPG

 

This was after all sanding completed. I am doing each side in turn and the reason for this is twofold. Firstly, the other side is against the garage wall. Secondly, I don't want to accidentally transpose any parts, which is a risk when both sides are done at once.

 

IMG_4021.JPG

 

I applied the Cuprinol wood preserver which began to soak in nicely. This the worst part, the window channels, where some of the rot and drain holes (now clear) can be seen.

 

IMG_4022.JPG

 

The Cuprinol tin says to apply 2-3 coats once the last has soaked in, then gives a drying time of 1-5 days for topcoat. So 'soaked in' is a little ambiguous. I gave a second coat about half an hour after the first, which took well, then called it a day and will apply another in the morning. Then give it the full 5 days before varnishing.

 

IMG_4024.JPG

 

After all the boring work of sanding and dismantling, I wanted a break so fitted a good steering wheel I bought. It's been painted I'm sure but the plastic is good, and you can't tell unless you look closely, so I'm happy with that.


  • Skizzer, vulgalour, mercrocker and 7 others like this

Squeak, rattle and roll.

 

 

Thanks restorer.

 

Save the Pangolins.

 

Current shite:

1952 Morris Oxford Series MO - Sidevalve Shite

1959 Humber Super Snipe - Big banger

1962 Morris 1000 Traveller - English Tudorbethan

1975 Austin Allegro 1100 DL - m'Lod

 

Please look out for hedgehogs!


#195 OFFLINE   mercrocker

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Posted 14 August 2018 - 06:04 PM

Good stuff there, SD....I occasionally look at those over-priced, over-restored examples that crop up on Ebay, carandclassic etc.   Amazing how many times some of them have had complete new wood - one car seemed to require it at 10 year intervals and two of those times were at Charlie Ware's!    Doesn't say much for either new wood or the owner's ability to look after them.


  • Junkman, Squire_Dawson and Hooli like this

1963 Morry Thou

1955 Cowley

1987 VW T25 Holdsworth

1990 190E

197? Portafold Caravan 

2000 Fiesta Zetec Ghia

 


#196 OFFLINE   Squire_Dawson

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Posted 14 August 2018 - 06:17 PM

I heard a few people say the wood on the earlier cars was of better quality, which stands to reason as time went on and BMC/BL saw the car as old fashioned. I think the mid-60s on cars weren't as well built.


  • Junkman likes this

Squeak, rattle and roll.

 

 

Thanks restorer.

 

Save the Pangolins.

 

Current shite:

1952 Morris Oxford Series MO - Sidevalve Shite

1959 Humber Super Snipe - Big banger

1962 Morris 1000 Traveller - English Tudorbethan

1975 Austin Allegro 1100 DL - m'Lod

 

Please look out for hedgehogs!


#197 OFFLINE   Squire_Dawson

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Posted 07 September 2018 - 10:14 PM

Side 1 complete!

Before:

IMG_4088.JPG

During filling joints with wood glue and wood sandings mixture:

IMG_4089.JPG

Now, after 3 applications of wood preserver and 3 coats of varnish, it's really looking good and all the hard work is being paid off. It's taken a lot of time and effort to get here.

IMG_4110.JPG

I'm very pleased with the result which should last for years now. I was going to put the windows back in today but decided new runners would be beneficial to do it justice. Once that's done I'll make a start on the other side which shouldn't take as long now I know what to do.
  • richardthestag, loserone, Skizzer and 21 others like this

Squeak, rattle and roll.

 

 

Thanks restorer.

 

Save the Pangolins.

 

Current shite:

1952 Morris Oxford Series MO - Sidevalve Shite

1959 Humber Super Snipe - Big banger

1962 Morris 1000 Traveller - English Tudorbethan

1975 Austin Allegro 1100 DL - m'Lod

 

Please look out for hedgehogs!


#198 OFFLINE   blguy1975

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Posted 07 September 2018 - 10:49 PM

That is looking fantastic , proper Roy Cropper car


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Allegro has Vvroom for 5

#199 OFFLINE   BorniteIdentity

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Posted 08 September 2018 - 06:54 AM

Jesus man. That’s incredible. A real credit to you and your commitment.
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#200 OFFLINE   mercrocker

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Posted 08 September 2018 - 07:46 AM

Excellent work!   Shows what a difference a bit of graft can make....


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1963 Morry Thou

1955 Cowley

1987 VW T25 Holdsworth

1990 190E

197? Portafold Caravan 

2000 Fiesta Zetec Ghia

 


#201 OFFLINE   Squire_Dawson

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Posted 10 September 2018 - 09:30 PM

That is looking fantastic , proper Roy Cropper car

 

What are you trying to say eh?!

 

Jesus man. That’s incredible. A real credit to you and your commitment.

 

Thank you sir, it was very laborious but worth it.

 

Excellent work!   Shows what a difference a bit of graft can make....

 

Believe me I had my doubts when I took it to pieces! Thanks mate, I just kept doing a bit when possible, I think the key is not to have any deadlines/time constraints. It's taken me months longer than intended just to get here.

 

Okay, since the car has been turned around in readiness for t'other side, I partook of a little 'light relief' from woodwork and retreated to my comfort zone of electrical-mechanical work. Since the car hadn't been moved for a while, and getting my old YT account back, I made a short video to mark the occasion. I need to invest in a better film camera though and was thinking of a GoPro?

 

 

I came across a bonnet safety catch at an autojumble so fitted that, ordered some courtesy light switches which, remarkably, seem to be better made than the decayed originals (the replacements are non-ferrous)

 

IMG_4111.JPG

 

and, with the steering wheel off (again) and glove box out in order to replace the courtesy switch I decided to diagnose the inoperative heater fan. I'll be needing that to work soon. You'll remember I got as far as proving its feed, whereupon I quickly put it out of my head.

 

IMG_4118.JPG

 

Removing part of the fascia furnished me with a view of the heater I was familiar with in my Series II: the so-called fug stirrer. This is a remarkably good heater, being well wound (tongue twister) with radiator fins.

 

IMG_4119.JPG

 

Now it's more complicated as it was turned into a fresh air heater for the 1000 with the addition of a flap under the car. In any case, I was able to prod and poke a screwdriver through the heater grille across the rheostat switch terminals which eventually got the fan going. So it's a duff switch. The hardest part will be replacing the switch because access is quite tricky.

 

IMG_4121.JPG

 

Here you can just make out the rheostat. I had to use a mirror to see what I was doing.


  • vulgalour, mercrocker, Junkman and 5 others like this

Squeak, rattle and roll.

 

 

Thanks restorer.

 

Save the Pangolins.

 

Current shite:

1952 Morris Oxford Series MO - Sidevalve Shite

1959 Humber Super Snipe - Big banger

1962 Morris 1000 Traveller - English Tudorbethan

1975 Austin Allegro 1100 DL - m'Lod

 

Please look out for hedgehogs!


#202 OFFLINE   Squire_Dawson

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Posted 12 September 2018 - 09:07 PM

One annoying thing about the Traveller is the rear doors are prone to falling shut with a flesh-creeping bang, even when the stays are engaged. The slot is too rounded. So, I have the Minor fondlers to thank for this neat trick. It simply involves filing a square slot in the stay, so the catch falls into the groove. I can see why this wasn't done from the outset though; with this mod the stays need lifting against spring pressure to shut the doors. You'd get some berk (and we all know at least one) just trying to push the door shut, which would rip the gubbins out completely if forced.

 

IMG_4109.JPG


  • mk2_craig, mercrocker, captain_70s and 2 others like this

Squeak, rattle and roll.

 

 

Thanks restorer.

 

Save the Pangolins.

 

Current shite:

1952 Morris Oxford Series MO - Sidevalve Shite

1959 Humber Super Snipe - Big banger

1962 Morris 1000 Traveller - English Tudorbethan

1975 Austin Allegro 1100 DL - m'Lod

 

Please look out for hedgehogs!


#203 OFFLINE   Squire_Dawson

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Posted 14 September 2018 - 06:47 PM

Heater rheostat completely knackered, its suffered from some metal corrosion. It was a swine to change, I am afraid I had to resort to violence and break one of the plastic heater grille slats, as removing the heater is a really involved job and would take a whole day of swearing just to get out. However, you can't see any damage as its covered up by the fascia. I replaced the switch and now have a working variable speed fan again.

 

IMG_4124.JPG


  • captain_70s, Cleon-Fonte and Hooli like this

Squeak, rattle and roll.

 

 

Thanks restorer.

 

Save the Pangolins.

 

Current shite:

1952 Morris Oxford Series MO - Sidevalve Shite

1959 Humber Super Snipe - Big banger

1962 Morris 1000 Traveller - English Tudorbethan

1975 Austin Allegro 1100 DL - m'Lod

 

Please look out for hedgehogs!


#204 OFFLINE   captain_70s

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Posted 14 September 2018 - 07:34 PM

Excellent work fella!

 

Sadly I showed my girlfriend the video and now she wants one. She can't even drive ffs...


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26707358839_1b301cd015_o.jpg


#205 OFFLINE   PhilA

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Posted 14 September 2018 - 07:50 PM

Very nice. I'm jealous of variable-speed fan.

Good work on the woodwork. The same is said here of the quality of wood available though- back in the fifties there was still a lot of heavy logging going on of really old trees, well established and solid- particularly cypress in this area. Since then either the trees ran out or there was an order to stop cutting them down or they're making do with different woods and younger trees and less in the way of really harsh, nasty chemicals to preserve and lengthen their service life.

A proper take apart and redo with time spent on detail is highly valuable though. Good job, well done.

Phil
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I'm a Byte Wizard. I've been told so.
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#206 OFFLINE   vulgalour

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Posted 14 September 2018 - 09:47 PM

Excellent work fella!

 

Sadly I showed my girlfriend the video and now she wants one. She can't even drive ffs...

 

But they are very easy to learn in and you do have a space on the fleet...


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#207 OFFLINE   chodweaver

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Posted 14 September 2018 - 10:10 PM

Just caught up with this thread.

 

Excellent work, Squire!


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Vomit colour Corsa 1.4 Comfort badermatic (the one constant, reliable thing in my life /Quentin)

XM 2.1 SEDTurbo (leaky driveway ornament)

Chrysler Graf Spee Limited 3.3 + LPG (suspected OMGHG, ABS, AC and driver's seat heater failures)

LT Multicruiser (guest bedroom and backup kitchen)

Mk1 MR2 (rumours of its health are lies)

 

(I'm sure I've forgotten at least one...)


#208 OFFLINE   Squire_Dawson

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Posted 20 September 2018 - 06:37 PM

 

Just caught up with this thread.

 

Excellent work, Squire!

 

Thank you. I really want to get the woodwork finished at least before the cold sets in. Just waiting on new window runners before I start the other side.

 

I did some tinkering today intending to test another petrol tank sender unit I have. But first I decided to take the cover off the existing unit and move the slider up to simulate a full tank. It only bloody worked! Unfortunately after filling up the tank it still has a mind of its own and showed three-quarters full, but I'm hoping now it'll improve with use. As I filled the tank a little too full, I decided to run the engine to use up some fuel, and turn my attention to the charging system instead. (The fuel gauge actually began to show a full tank). You will remember I feared the system was overcharging, and that is still the case.

 

Ammeter showed an excessive charge rate,

 

IMG_4188.JPG

 

as did the voltmeter, but only once a certain rev range had been reached.

 

IMG_4189.JPG

 

Over 17 volts is really pushing things. The amps have varied depending on engine speed but a voltage that high is asking for burnt out bulbs, faulty ignition and possibly a boiled battery. I decided to make greater adjustments to the voltage regulator - usually very sensitive and only quarter turns of the adjuster should be made at once - sadly several full turns made no difference to the figures. I wound the screw out so much it wasn't even touching anymore.

 

IMG_4190.JPG

 

I believe the voltage regulator is faulty (fair enough at its service life) and though I have a replacement I think I'll just monitor things for the time being, once its back on the road. Easy to check is the battery electrolyte level. The need for frequent topping up indicates over-charging.

 

 


  • Skizzer likes this

Squeak, rattle and roll.

 

 

Thanks restorer.

 

Save the Pangolins.

 

Current shite:

1952 Morris Oxford Series MO - Sidevalve Shite

1959 Humber Super Snipe - Big banger

1962 Morris 1000 Traveller - English Tudorbethan

1975 Austin Allegro 1100 DL - m'Lod

 

Please look out for hedgehogs!


#209 OFFLINE   Supernaut

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Posted 20 September 2018 - 06:39 PM

That voltmeter looks familiar!
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#210 OFFLINE   Squire_Dawson

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Posted 20 September 2018 - 06:42 PM

That voltmeter looks familiar!

 

The great one we used was FPB7's, but of course I have one similar!


  • captain_70s and Supernaut like this

Squeak, rattle and roll.

 

 

Thanks restorer.

 

Save the Pangolins.

 

Current shite:

1952 Morris Oxford Series MO - Sidevalve Shite

1959 Humber Super Snipe - Big banger

1962 Morris 1000 Traveller - English Tudorbethan

1975 Austin Allegro 1100 DL - m'Lod

 

Please look out for hedgehogs!






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