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1962 Morris Minor 1000.

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237 replies to this topic

#61 ONLINE   PhilA

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Posted 01 January 2018 - 05:11 AM

Transitional blinking brake lights complete w/ combined white front side/turn?

Was that ever a "thing" on the Minor? I thought they went from trafficators straight to "safety orange" indicators.

Used to seeing the very dark red and nearly-red glass lenses on the back of Travellers, though I have to say yours is the first I've seen of this era.

More please, I'm learning!

Phil
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#62 OFFLINE   Asimo

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Posted 01 January 2018 - 09:52 AM

My Minor 2d saloon had traficators ( broken) and flashing brake-light bulb rear indicators. Front had seperate white lenses.
Until this thread I hadn't heard of "transition" Minors, is that Traveller only?
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#63 OFFLINE   Angrydicky

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Posted 01 January 2018 - 11:17 AM

BMC offered a conversion kit, which included the stalk, the relay and wiring. The fronts flashed the sidelights, the rears were separate, amber Lucas lenses mounted in thick, angled rubber bases (for the saloons) and presumably screwed straight to the car with conventional rubber bases on the travellers and commercials. Often the trafficators were left in place, just disconnected. Most of the competitors had had flashers for a few years already by that point, hence the conversion kit I suppose as some customers (or magazine road testers!) probably whined about paying all that purchase tax to get a proper car, and still being lumbered with trafficators.
  • Sigmund Fraud, Asimo and Squire_Dawson like this

Current fleet:

1935 Standard 12
1953 Austin A40 Somerset 
1958 Austin A55 Cambridge

1959 Austin A35 

1980 Vauxhall Royale 2.8 auto

1983 Ford Sierra 1.6 Base (1/5) 

1987 Austin Maestro 1.3L

1996 Renault Clio 'Nicole'
 

 

 


#64 OFFLINE   mercrocker

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Posted 01 January 2018 - 01:19 PM

Transition Minors were all models (not sure about the LCV van and pickup) but all the passenger cars came in this mid-way phase.   You got a sprung steering wheel, early type dash with push-pull rather than flick switches and the open cubbies on both sides.   Also clap-hand wipers and the aforementioned flashing sidelights (red rear, white front).   Trafficator recesses were "blanked" off - actually just a new pressing with a raised platform where the trafficators would have lived.   I think the law changed in c.1965 with regard to flasher colours as the Fords of this period were updated to split amber/clear sidelight lenses although many of the rear clusters already incorporated amber.  

 

Many Minors, mine included, simply had their neat rear tail light assemblies binned for the monstrous amber-topped units of much chrome failure and the combined flash/side front units fitted which were common to Farina models.   

 

Regarding LEDs - I do normally dislike their use on old vehicles because they are far too "white" but I have found 2 useful areas - one is on trailer indicator bulbs as this reduces the load on the Morrises' flasher units and all six flashers (eight on the Cowley, with trailer!) operate at the proper rate.   I also have retained the trafficators on the Cowley along with the giffer-fitted amber indicators.   This involves two wiring circuits, one switch and two relays!   The trafficators have been fitted with LED festoons which now flash instead of just illuminating as originally.   At some point I will be putting the flasher circuit back through the red tail light and clear front sidelights as it was originally and sacking off the plastic amber lenses which never look right on Fifties cars. 


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1963 Morry Thou

1955 Cowley

1987 VW T25 Holdsworth

1990 190E

197? Portafold Caravan 

2000 Fiesta Zetec Ghia

 


#65 OFFLINE   Squire_Dawson

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Posted 01 January 2018 - 08:06 PM

Lord, give me one fine day. The plan was to bring the Traveller inside so work could begin on the ash frame, which the gent I bought it off had already begun to sand down. Today, we had some current bun, a good omen, so I set to shuffling the cars about when the heavens opened, just as the wind and sun had been drying the car out nicely. If there was a rain god, I would be on blood sacrifices now, as this pissing rain never stops pouring! So it went into the garage wet through, again.

Junkman's valuable nautical experience came in very handy. I am to dry the car out for 3 weeks, minimum, before treating the wood, and use boat varnish. Of course, this stands to reason. It is a job I want to do properly and therefore will take time.

I set to work clearing the window channels out, which had accumulated a layer of gunk, blocking the drain holes. Investigation prodding strategic areas of the ash frame revealed some softness in the wood, but this is confined to a very small area. For a car that is most certainly still on its original wood, and has covered just shy of 100,000 miles, I am well satisfied with its condition. The Minor wallahs recommend treating these soft areas with some wood hardener prior to varnish, which I shall. All of this is new to me, as I have never owned a timbered car before. When people laugh at the 'all steel' advertising of the period, like the Shite Station Wagon, because rust, it was something to boast about for a very good reason. There would be no yearly treatment necessary on a steel body to ward off rot, nor no meal for termites in the vital export markets.

Structurally this car is very sound. Photographs:

 

Before I started.

IMG_3128.JPG

 

What I scraped out. I believe much of this to be the remains of the felt window runners.

IMG_3129.JPG

 

Drain holes re-appear.

IMG_3130.JPG

 

Drain holes from below. There are drains in both internal and external window channels.

IMG_3132.JPG

 

The drivers' side, not as bad with drain holes visible. Still containing decayed felt window runner.

IMG_3133.JPG

 

 

Transitional blinking brake lights complete w/ combined white front side/turn?

Was that ever a "thing" on the Minor? I thought they went from trafficators straight to "safety orange" indicators.

Used to seeing the very dark red and nearly-red glass lenses on the back of Travellers, though I have to say yours is the first I've seen of this era.

More please, I'm learning!

Phil
You are entirely correct, Phil. For a brief period of a couple of years, Morris used this arrangement hitherto peculiar to U.S. cars, when most other British manufacturers adopted orange winkers from the start. I can only put it down to Morris obstinacy in the early days of the BMC merger, as Austin had orange winkers on their range for years. Morris were content to stick with trafficators long after their abandonment by other firms (and it really is hard to see trafficators, especially from a distance at speed, that is if they can overcome wind resistance to begin with). The light lenses front and back are flat on the transitional cars, unlike the later domed type. I prefer the flat lenses. The left number plate lamp was inoperative, so I got it working again fairly easily. I love little jobs like these. 3 number plate illumination bulbs!
 
IMG_3138.JPG
 
Now you will begin to see why this type of flashing indicator did not find favour in Britain.
 
IMG_3139.JPG
 
And with tail lamps on:
 
IMG_3144.JPG
 
I will be keeping it exactly as it is. There can't be many cars about with this setup intact, surely?
 
And, the best thing of all:
 
IMG_3147.JPG
 
Flashing green stalk yo!

 

 


  • Skizzer, eddyramrod, holbeck and 19 others like this

Squeak, rattle and roll.

 

 

Thanks restorer.

 

Save the Pangolins.

 

Current shite:

1952 Morris Oxford Series MO - Sidevalve Shite

1959 Humber Super Snipe - Gas guzzler

1962 Morris 1000 Traveller - English Tudorbethan

1975 Austin Allegro 1100 DL - m'Lod

 

Please look out for hedgehogs!


#66 OFFLINE   Squire_Dawson

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Posted 01 January 2018 - 08:13 PM

Mercrocker, I am certain you could remove the giffer wiring, if you wish, and use a Lucas DB10 (I think) unit which would operate both trafficators and winkers from the same switch.


  • mercrocker likes this

Squeak, rattle and roll.

 

 

Thanks restorer.

 

Save the Pangolins.

 

Current shite:

1952 Morris Oxford Series MO - Sidevalve Shite

1959 Humber Super Snipe - Gas guzzler

1962 Morris 1000 Traveller - English Tudorbethan

1975 Austin Allegro 1100 DL - m'Lod

 

Please look out for hedgehogs!


#67 OFFLINE   320touring

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Posted 01 January 2018 - 08:15 PM

Excellent news that this has started.

I'm hoping to get a moving on the Oxford soon - really got a taste for this now!
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#68 OFFLINE   Squire_Dawson

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Posted 01 January 2018 - 08:44 PM

Some good work already I see. Keep it up!


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Squeak, rattle and roll.

 

 

Thanks restorer.

 

Save the Pangolins.

 

Current shite:

1952 Morris Oxford Series MO - Sidevalve Shite

1959 Humber Super Snipe - Gas guzzler

1962 Morris 1000 Traveller - English Tudorbethan

1975 Austin Allegro 1100 DL - m'Lod

 

Please look out for hedgehogs!


#69 OFFLINE   Squire_Dawson

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Posted 05 January 2018 - 07:59 PM

There was a box in the car with some stuff.

 

IMG_3135.JPG

 

Which included the original speedometer, seen here in its repaired state. The speed needle had come off along with some internal bits to operate the odometer. They are a simple unit to dismantle and repair, but I have yet to test it. That is more or less genuine mileage btw.

 

IMG_3136.JPG

 

And the car's fog lamp, which is listed on the Order Form as an extra, I am in two minds whether to re-fit or not, but they do look good with an extra lamp fitted. And it works.

 

IMG_3137.JPG

 

Wood drying out nicely.


  • cobblers, Skizzer, eddyramrod and 5 others like this

Squeak, rattle and roll.

 

 

Thanks restorer.

 

Save the Pangolins.

 

Current shite:

1952 Morris Oxford Series MO - Sidevalve Shite

1959 Humber Super Snipe - Gas guzzler

1962 Morris 1000 Traveller - English Tudorbethan

1975 Austin Allegro 1100 DL - m'Lod

 

Please look out for hedgehogs!


#70 OFFLINE   mercrocker

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Posted 05 January 2018 - 09:11 PM

Deffo refit that spot lamp.   One is de rigeur, two is too many.


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1963 Morry Thou

1955 Cowley

1987 VW T25 Holdsworth

1990 190E

197? Portafold Caravan 

2000 Fiesta Zetec Ghia

 


#71 OFFLINE   Squire_Dawson

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Posted 05 January 2018 - 09:19 PM

Would be interested to see how your fleet is doing Trev. Photos please!


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Squeak, rattle and roll.

 

 

Thanks restorer.

 

Save the Pangolins.

 

Current shite:

1952 Morris Oxford Series MO - Sidevalve Shite

1959 Humber Super Snipe - Gas guzzler

1962 Morris 1000 Traveller - English Tudorbethan

1975 Austin Allegro 1100 DL - m'Lod

 

Please look out for hedgehogs!


#72 OFFLINE   tooSavvy

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Posted 05 January 2018 - 09:29 PM

 
Flashing green stalk yo!


On my first MM1000 van I removed the green flasher from the turn stalk (couldn't see it with a thick rim/smaller wheel) but rewired it through the 'orange' oil bypass warning light in the dash cluster ;)

Betterer...


TS
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Wallsend?.....it's not the End of the Walled ;<)

35942490325_0815d58667.jpgSUCKS


#73 OFFLINE   mercrocker

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Posted 05 January 2018 - 09:39 PM

Would be interested to see how your fleet is doing Trev. Photos please!

 

Its not doing much presently!   Will get some pics over the weekend, though.....


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1963 Morry Thou

1955 Cowley

1987 VW T25 Holdsworth

1990 190E

197? Portafold Caravan 

2000 Fiesta Zetec Ghia

 


#74 OFFLINE   Momentary Lapse Of Reason

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Posted 05 January 2018 - 10:51 PM

If you don't want the bumper iron bracket the spot is attached to could I have it please?



#75 OFFLINE   Mally

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Posted 06 January 2018 - 04:29 PM

On my first MM1000 van I removed the green flasher from the turn stalk (couldn't see it with a thick rim/smaller wheel) but rewired it through the 'orange' oil bypass warning light in the dash cluster ;)

Betterer...


TS

 

Nonsense. What could be better than a flashing green stalk?


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#76 OFFLINE   tooSavvy

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Posted 06 January 2018 - 05:23 PM

Nonsense. What could be better than a flashing green stalk?


.... a visible orange flashing turn indicator/winker ?

TS

Wallsend?.....it's not the End of the Walled ;<)

35942490325_0815d58667.jpgSUCKS


#77 ONLINE   Eddie Honda

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Posted 06 January 2018 - 07:23 PM

Nonsense. What could be better than a flashing green stalk?


Absolutely nothing. Had one on a Austin 1100 and Wolseley 16/60. Bright by day and dimmer when the lights were on.

#78 OFFLINE   Tadhg Tiogar

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Posted 06 January 2018 - 08:10 PM

.... They’re fantastic fun to drive, in fact I’d rate a Minor as my favourite car to smoke about in. Not fast but tremendous fun!


http://youtu.be/ooBJ2Z2sZvo
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#79 OFFLINE   mercrocker

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Posted 06 January 2018 - 10:20 PM

Absolutely nothing. Had one on a Austin 1100 and Wolseley 16/60. Bright by day and dimmer when the lights were on.

  

The Minor lacks the rheostat.   By night we all look like we are in a 50s Jack the Ripper B Movie when changing direction.


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1963 Morry Thou

1955 Cowley

1987 VW T25 Holdsworth

1990 190E

197? Portafold Caravan 

2000 Fiesta Zetec Ghia

 


#80 OFFLINE   Squire_Dawson

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Posted 20 January 2018 - 07:03 PM

The mystery sticker from the box of stuff was this:

 

IMG_3200.JPG

 

which was promptly re-attached to its backing paper and returned to the box of stuff. Must be some obscure Jet petrol campaign lost in the mists of time. Soon the wood will have had its 3 weeks' drying time. Otherwise I have been confined to numerous little jobs, such as freeing off the heater control tap,

 

IMG_3199.JPG

 

which is the only way of regulating the water flow to the heater, so it's important this works. The heater itself is a combination of the early Smiths circular, which get very hot, allied to an early fresh-air system. Thus I have a flap, albeit an incognito flap under the car, controlled by the little knob under the parcel shelf.

 

IMG_3228.JPG

 

The heater fan is inoperative, so first thing to do was check the feed.

 

IMG_3227.JPG

 

Which means more investigation and dismantling as it must be the rheostat switch in the unit. But that's of secondary importance right now. The priority is getting the car roadworthy. Much work had already been done before I got the car, and the trunnions have evidently been well greased. But I have a list of a few missing parts I need for the MoT test.

 

IMG_3229.JPG

 

A suspension bump stop,

one battery clamp fixing,

a spare wheel clamp,

and a clutch pedal rubber.

 

I haven't started the engine since it went into the garage as I avoid starting up engines from cold unless going on a journey. It's definitely harmful to the engine. But tomorrow, weather permitting, I will have to move it to get it up on the ramps for underside access and also investigate why it isn't charging...


  • Skizzer, coalnotdole, mercrocker and 7 others like this

Squeak, rattle and roll.

 

 

Thanks restorer.

 

Save the Pangolins.

 

Current shite:

1952 Morris Oxford Series MO - Sidevalve Shite

1959 Humber Super Snipe - Gas guzzler

1962 Morris 1000 Traveller - English Tudorbethan

1975 Austin Allegro 1100 DL - m'Lod

 

Please look out for hedgehogs!


#81 OFFLINE   320touring

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Posted 20 January 2018 - 07:15 PM

Good stuff - interesting to note how different this is in construction from the Oxford.

You're getting along well with the work:)
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Read about my chod based adventures here:
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#82 OFFLINE   Skizzer

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Posted 20 January 2018 - 07:21 PM

Excellent stuff. Double bonus points for that multimeter.
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75N Vauxhall 2300S | 76P Lotus Elite | 76P Renault 16TL | 79T Rover 3500 | 82X Lancia Gamma Coupe | 82Y Jaguar XJ-S HE | 83A Jaguar Sovereign 4.2 | 84B Talbot-Matra Rancho | 85C Ford Granada 2.8 estate | 91H Audi 80 2.0E | 91J VW Golf Rivage cabrio | 06 Alfa Brera 2.2JTS | 14 BMW 428i | 18 Skoda Kodiaq


#83 OFFLINE   Squire_Dawson

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Posted 20 January 2018 - 07:53 PM

Excellent stuff. Double bonus points for that multimeter.

 

Cheers. They are indispensable on certain faults at work. A digital multimeter is unable to display a 'blip' in voltage or current.


  • richardthestag, alf892 and Skizzer like this

Squeak, rattle and roll.

 

 

Thanks restorer.

 

Save the Pangolins.

 

Current shite:

1952 Morris Oxford Series MO - Sidevalve Shite

1959 Humber Super Snipe - Gas guzzler

1962 Morris 1000 Traveller - English Tudorbethan

1975 Austin Allegro 1100 DL - m'Lod

 

Please look out for hedgehogs!


#84 OFFLINE   hairnet

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Posted 20 January 2018 - 08:08 PM

http://www.stmotorsl....uk/index.php/2

 

friend pointed us at this

 

worth it??

 

opinion plz

 

fanks



#85 OFFLINE   SiC

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Posted 20 January 2018 - 08:30 PM

A digital multimeter is unable to display a 'blip' in voltage or current.


Half decent (i.e. not cheapest) Flukes, Keystone, Metrawatt, et al all have fast acting bar graph displays for that use.
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#86 OFFLINE   Skizzer

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Posted 20 January 2018 - 08:59 PM

Cheers. They are indispensable on certain faults at work. A digital multimeter is unable to display a 'blip' in voltage or current.


Interesting, hadn’t thought of that. I recently found my father’s one which dates back to the mid-70s (so newfangled tosh next to yours) but generally use my own digital one instead - might rethink that a bit for some applications.
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#87 OFFLINE   Tadhg Tiogar

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Posted 20 January 2018 - 09:25 PM

The mystery sticker from the box of stuff was this:
 
attachicon.gifIMG_3200.JPG
 
which was promptly re-attached to its backing paper and returned to the box of stuff. Must be some obscure Jet petrol campaign lost in the mists of time....


Jet (Conoco) built its reputation on selling petrol and diesel cheaper than the others. I remember my oul man always filling the car up at Jet.
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F*ck your Honda Civic, I've a horse outside,
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And f*ck your Mitsubishi, I've a horse outside,
If you're lookin' for a ride, I've got a horse outside

#88 OFFLINE   Squire_Dawson

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Posted 27 January 2018 - 12:01 PM

I moved the car out of the garage and began investigating the 'no charge' warning. I am pleased to say that after 3 weeks standing, the engine fired up instantaneously. Good old A Series engines! The beauty of cars of this era is that most of the electrical equipment is the same, loads of cars used the 2 bobbin voltage regulator. So generally what goes for one can be applied to another. I don't have a workshop manual for this car so I used the MO book. It contains a step-by-step guide for fault finding, and you really do have to be logical in faults such as these. First investigation was the dynamo to measure the output, which involves disconnecting the D and F terminals and joining them together with a length of wire, then connecting the negative lead of the voltmeter to one of the terminals and the other lead to an earth on the dynamo bracket. Its output was textbook, and I was careful not to take the reading over 20 volts as stated in the book. The next logical step was to check what was going into the control box at points D and F, to prove the wires are intact. Again, I had textbook readings. That concluded dynamo testing, so I was directed to the section dealing with the voltage regulator.

For the first test I had to disconnect the wires from A1 terminal, and as soon as I removed the grub screw the fault became immediately apparent. I said 'I bet that's it' when I saw a dull wire with hardly any of the copper exposed beyond the insulation. Although the wire was held in place by the grub screw, and therefore passed my earlier preliminary test of giving all the wires to the control box a gentle pull, it was not making electrical contact. I cleaned it up and made sure it went in properly, then started the engine. Lo and behold, the charge light extinguished. Success!

 

IMG_3244.JPG

 

It was the topmost brown and blue wire at fault here in terminal A1. The later control boxes with spade terminals and crimped connections are undoubtedly more reliable in this respect, but I do prefer grub screws. An interesting little fault. The large brown wire is in a temporary position for an ammeter I had and always intended to fit to one of these cars, as they are indispensable when you have a dynamo. I will tidy the ammeter wiring and make the arrangement more permanent, but the ammeter has given a useful indication so far with this fault. Note how thick the cable is; the right cable size is of vital importance.

 

IMG_3240.JPG

 

As you can see, it is a period Barnacle ammeter I've had for a while, non-illuminated! Importantly, look at the reading when I sped the engine up. A whopping 30 amps was flowing to the battery at one point until I backed off the throttle. This would've gone undetected had I only been relying on the 'no charge' lamp. Obviously this is far too much and can cause damage to the battery, not to mention blackened bulbs. With the voltmeter I took a reading at the battery and sped the engine up a little. It was almost 17 volts, so some adjustment of the regulator is in order.

A word on ammeter readings for those unfamiliar with them. Provided the battery is healthy, after starting the initial charge will be quite high to replenish the current drawn by the starter motor. After a minute or two on the road the reading should settle to a trickle charge of a few amps, or even indicate zero. It is normal for it to show a discharge with the engine idling, and the 'no charge' lamp may even glow. This is because the engine speed - and therefore dynamo speed - is not fast enough to overcome the cut-out and is nothing to worry about. With the electrical equipment i.e. lights, wipers in use, the ammeter should still show a small charge as the voltage regulator compensates for the increased demands on the system. Basically as long as the battery is charging there is nothing to worry about, provided it isn't over charging, and the system should be left alone.


  • richardthestag, Skizzer, DeeJay and 11 others like this

Squeak, rattle and roll.

 

 

Thanks restorer.

 

Save the Pangolins.

 

Current shite:

1952 Morris Oxford Series MO - Sidevalve Shite

1959 Humber Super Snipe - Gas guzzler

1962 Morris 1000 Traveller - English Tudorbethan

1975 Austin Allegro 1100 DL - m'Lod

 

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#89 ONLINE   PhilA

PhilA

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Posted 27 January 2018 - 02:24 PM

Nice. It's a simple and satisfying system when it works and isn't overloaded.

Those regulators have a satisfying PLUNK when they disengage.

Once cleaned, I never had any problems with the one on my Hillman.

Phil
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I'm a Byte Wizard. I've been told so.
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#90 OFFLINE   purplebargeken

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    Someone who is developing reduced levels of patience!

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Posted 27 January 2018 - 03:31 PM

I have some underneath repair panels I have no use for. I keep tripping over them.


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Hyundai i10 auto - white goods shite
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BMW 318i Touring with dealer optional indicators fitted! Gently sleeping!
Triumph Toledo - 2.0 for added sleeper shite

Triumph Dolomite 1850 auto - crusty shite
MG ZT Mean Green Machine
MGF 1.8 VVC BRG floppytop shite






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