bigfella2 Posted December 12, 2017 Author Share Posted December 12, 2017 You're doing well, it took me 3 hours to get my front bumper off. The first time anyway.That's the good thing about Clio's there is so much info about them, found a great guide to remove front bumper couldn't believe how few fixing there was. Yes I think the 1.2 engine would fit easier, it's quite a tight bay, would not like to change the belts in situ like Dome did. Hope the new engine is not a shitter though. Don't fancy taking it out again. bigfella2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dome Posted December 12, 2017 Share Posted December 12, 2017 Yeah trouble is mine had lived by the sea for 12 years so was pretty rusty. The bumper bolts were totally fucked, I ended up taking the grinder to them bigfella2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfella2 Posted December 20, 2017 Author Share Posted December 20, 2017 Sorry for the delay with this. I don't have much spare time and a dose of man flu stopped play recently. So the diagnosis of the borked engine is confirmed. Auxillary belt intact, these f4r's are renound for auxillary belt failure and this in turn gets caught up in the cambelt - i think you get the picture. But not this time. Anyway cambelt cover was removed and this is what i found. Any Renner lickers want to build an F4R coffetable?? Cos this is all its good for. dome and Coprolalia 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dome Posted December 20, 2017 Share Posted December 20, 2017 That dephaser looks well fucked, i think that's been on their a while! bigfella2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
320touring Posted December 20, 2017 Share Posted December 20, 2017 That dephaser looks well fucked, i think that's been on their a while!Meh:) bigfella2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfella2 Posted February 18, 2018 Author Share Posted February 18, 2018 Sorry for not updating my thread for ages, freezing cold weather and me spending little time on the Clio doesn't help. This thread will have to be a bit retrospective as i am quite far on with this, but still probably the slowest engine change in history. Anyway the first job of removing the engine usually means removing the wheels first, so i go to locate the locking wheel nut key, ooh fuck there isn't one, bugger, double bugger!!! So i text the previous owner to see what the crack is with the key, to cut a long story short i get messed about for a fortnight while the previous owner 'looks' for the key, then the previous owner can't be fucked to reply to my messages, its amazing that he was keen to reply when i was interested in buying the car, anyway........ So i am stuck with an immobile car and no way to remove the bolts as my futile attempts to remove were somewhat futile and failed. And there is no way i am gonna drill them off, as that would be a mare so i am left with no choice but to.... Cue A-Team music. If you have a problem, if no one else can help,and if you can find them......maybe you can hire The wheel nut man. dome and GrumpiusMaximus 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pillock Posted February 18, 2018 Share Posted February 18, 2018 That's quite a big van for a 16mm and 18mm socket. Sigmund Fraud, beko1987, The Moog and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
320touring Posted February 18, 2018 Share Posted February 18, 2018 OOH, Go on! I left the locking wheelnut key for #60 at the chap who changed the driveshaft for me - luckily he posted it back Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfella2 Posted February 18, 2018 Author Share Posted February 18, 2018 It wouldn't be so bad but it's twice I have been caught out by this, and twice I have had this guy out. But in my defense when I looked at the car, the battery was deader than a very dead thing, so couldn't open the boot to have a look for the key, I just made the mistake of assuming it was there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Moog Posted February 19, 2018 Share Posted February 19, 2018 It wouldn't be so bad but it's twice I have been caught out by this, and twice I have had this guy out. But in my defense when I looked at the car, the battery was deader than a very dead thing, so couldn't open the boot to have a look for the key, I just made the mistake of assuming it was there.How much was it to get them off? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
320touring Posted February 19, 2018 Share Posted February 19, 2018 How much was it to get them off?Steady, he may no be intae that sort of thing.. Tadhg Tiogar, The Moog and bigfella2 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfella2 Posted February 19, 2018 Author Share Posted February 19, 2018 He charges £50 to get them all off, but I had to pay a £25 minimum call out charge for him to come out. If you car drives you can take it to his gaff to avoid the call out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfella2 Posted February 20, 2018 Author Share Posted February 20, 2018 With those pesky wheel bolts out of the way, the driveshafts could be removed after dealing with quite a few stubborn suspension components, then much strippage of the engine bay started.Then boom!! out she comes. Didn't manage to drop it on my toes which is always a bonus.While the broken engine was out i wanted to have a sneaky peak at the cambelt and tensioners to see what the deal was with the cambelt failure. This don't look right.Why is this pulley half the width of the others eh?? dome and johngarty 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
320touring Posted March 8, 2018 Share Posted March 8, 2018 #needupdaetz!!!! bigfella2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfella2 Posted March 8, 2018 Author Share Posted March 8, 2018 Soz for lack of updates. Been to spoons tonight for curry night and a few shandys, so if any sounds incoherent or any pics come out on the piss thats why.Anyway after swapping cambelt covers on the engines as the one on the old engine was in a bit better condition than the new one i discovered the remains of one of the plastic pulleys and thats why the cambelt got shredded. So its safe to say the cambelt was not at fault.This is what it should look like, i.e the non bolloxed engine.While the engine was out of the car it would have been silly not to change the clutch, especially as taking the gearbox off one of these while the engine in situ is an arse of a job apparently, and at £60 quid for a new Valeo clutch and release bearing it seemed like a no brainer. Also the old clutch wasn't down to the rivets but it was more than likely original and the release bearing looked like a bit borked.Also did the pikey ARC A/C delete, i only did this because the aircon system had been dismantled previously and it looked like the last time it held gas was about the same time as the Hindenburg. Also everytime i see an aircon specialist its usually a £200-300 bill, not this time. Saved about a good 15kg of lard too. dome 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
320touring Posted March 8, 2018 Share Posted March 8, 2018 So does that mean you have a 'cup' alternator set up on it now? bigfella2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfella2 Posted March 8, 2018 Author Share Posted March 8, 2018 So does that mean you have a 'cup' alternator set up on it now?Only the pikey version, the cup uses all different brackets and a different alternator. This conversion uses a Saab pulley and a Mondeo derv auxiliary belt. dome 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
320touring Posted March 8, 2018 Share Posted March 8, 2018 Only the pikey version, the cup uses all different brackets and a different alternator. This conversion uses a Saab pulley and a Mondeo derv auxiliary belt.Ooh MOAR DETAILZ PLEEEZE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfella2 Posted March 8, 2018 Author Share Posted March 8, 2018 Simples really, just remove the Aircon pump and bolt the Saab wheel on to the bracket where the pump sat.i mean I could have just left the pump there and removed the rad and pipework, but am a bit funny with stuff like that, would either like it working or not there at all. And fuck paying £150/200 for a proper a/c delete with polished lightweight pulleys and all that stuff, this conversion cost me about £22. Only difficult bit was trying to get the heater box out of the bulkhead to remove the rad hidden in there, still covered in cuts and bruises. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
320touring Posted March 8, 2018 Share Posted March 8, 2018 Whit pulleys are involved? bigfella2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dome Posted March 8, 2018 Share Posted March 8, 2018 the last time it held gas was about the same time as the Hindenburg.I liked your post purely for this statement... 320touring, bigfella2 and stonedagain 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfella2 Posted March 8, 2018 Author Share Posted March 8, 2018 Whit pulleys are involved?Sorry it's called WRC a/c delete, this gives you all part numbers and how to do it.https://www.cliosport.net/threads/wrc-air-con-delete-diy-for-under-£50.667892/ loserone, 320touring and Exiled_Tat_Gatherer 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfella2 Posted March 9, 2018 Author Share Posted March 9, 2018 While the engine was out, i got on with a few other jobs that were easier without the engine in place. After hearing so many stories about the PAS system leaking/erupting ejecting the PAS fluid out in about a nanosecond causing the PAS pump to seize, throwing the belt off only to get ingested into the cambelt wrecking the engine. Infact the guy who sold me the engine said a pipe fractured causing the pump to seize on the way home from fitting the engine, but somehow got away with it. mine had worn badly on one of the rubber pipes and i intended to fix it by sending it to Pirtek for a repair, but i managed to muller it by removing it. Top banana. Fortunately a badly listed ebay pipe came to the rescue. Other things repaired/changed steering rack boot holed, both track rod ends (but on one side i never took measurements before replacement, so could make an interesting first drive!!!). Engine mount. Anti-roll bar bushes on front, was only about £8 for full lot to replace, inners were perished anyway, but for the love of god the middle ones were difficult to change, at one point i did lose my shit doing that. Also both bottom ball joints were changed, these may have been ok, but by the time i had beat the shit out of them to allow the drive shafts to be removed they were only fit for the bin. This is beginning to sound like triggers sweeping brush. Anyway can anyone identify the drawing on the front bumper support? Did consider converting it to a giant jizzing cock after trying to change the front inner ARB bushes. Rave, Exiled_Tat_Gatherer, Dirk Diggler and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRi05 Posted March 9, 2018 Share Posted March 9, 2018 This shape of clio still looks very fresh, I think they have aged so much better than the model that followed it bigfella2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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