Sold Stanky's Geep - fire sale

[Talbot]

but DVSA are aiming to ensure that all newly registered kit cars meet the CURRENT MOT regs for emissions - which I suspect a Pinto is not going to achieve

If that happens it will kill the uk kit car industry dead. The whole point is that you use an older engine/box/suspension etc. in a new body and chassis, so 99% of kit cars built will not pass a current emissions test.

 

I strongly suspect the kit car industry will object massively to this.

[dollywobbler]

Indeed so, while the government argues that a new build car of any sort is a new car, and so should meet regs. Kit car world understandably kicking off about it. 

[Dode LandyMorris]

Brilliant story/saga/epic.

Followed it with particular interest because I fancy getting a hold of a Jago Geep or Eagle RV to work on with my son...I'll keep looking in the local newsagent! Not many Jagos around in central Scotland.

On the handbrake situation, does it need the foot brakes adjusted up on the rear drums before the handbrake can be sorted. I am no brake expert but this is what needs to be done with the Morris Minor.

Keep up the splendid work and updates.

[Guest Hooli]

I once popped a piston out of a sierra caliper with an airline. The piston cleared two brand new & unregistered volvos before hitting the workshop wall, after that I always held a screwed up cloth on top of them to catch them.

 

I'd still get some piston pliers & pull them out that way, I really should order myself some.

[Stanky]

Via the power of hydraulics, I've made progress tonight.

 

I bought a grease gun earlier, put it together, screwed it into a bleed nipple thread and pumped the handle. incredibly, one piston started to come out the caliper

 

 

Overall its less knackered than I thought it would be - no ring of rust, and only a small area of pitting in the chrome

 

 

I tried with the other side, managing to get the two pistons to both come out a bit. careful use of g-clamps allowed me to get a closer look but it wasn't pretty...

 

 

 

As you can see there is a lot of pitting on this one, and the other (carrier side) is no better. I need to free the 2nd piston in the first calipet tomorrow to see what thats like. Hopefully its in similar shape to the first one...

[Stanky]

Right, verious things occurred today. I think they were all positive.

 

When I woke up it was sunny and relatively warm for February. I had a can of pepsi for breakfast and mooched out the the Geep. Earlier in the week I'd cleaned up the dizzy which we removed the other weekend and fitted the new points.

 

I gapped the points to 25 thou which is what they are supposed to be and set to refitting them. Then I realised that it would probably be a good idea to see if I could extract the oil filter while I had a bit of extra room to get at it. The bastard thing was seized in place from years of corrosion of the steel rim of the filter to the ally housing it lives on. I'd tried heating it but all i managed to do was set fire to the label of the oil pressure gauge  wire. I decided the easiest thing to do was remove the housing from the block and see what i could do with it with full access.

 

It looks like access is alright in situ, but its deceptive - you can get at it, but there are lots of things in the way whichever way you try and attack it. So 3 bolts removed and a bit of wiggling and out it came

 

 

with it removed (its basically a 90 degree elbow) I could get at it a lot easier. Into the vice you go

 

 

And attacked with the chain wrench and it released its grip eventually. Horrible little thing

 

 

astonishingly the £3 filter that I orderded from ebay, which came from flipping belfast fitted perfectly

 

 

 

Then refitted it to the block. Job's a good'un.

 

Next up was getting the dizzy back in. There are no pictures of this because it was a horrible fiddly job but its now back in, with the rotor arm pointing at the plug for cylinder #1 with cylinder #1 at what I determined to be TDC with a screwdriver down the spark plug hole. This might be about right, or 180 degrees out depending on whether I was lucky or not.

 

This has filled the hole, which was the important thing as it had been blocked up with an old sock for a fortnight while I fiddled with all of this.

 

next up was to look at the brakes. I'd freed them up with the grease gun the other weekend, and the pistons were in Ok shape, I removed the seals which I'll replace with a refurb kit but I needed to get the leftover grease out. First of all I tried rodding the grease out with bent wire which was moderately successful, then I tried boiling them in water on a tranjia which sort of worked too. Then I decided I'd have a go with the pressure washer which worked REALLY well. it blasted the grease out really well and I think they are pretty much grease free now.

 

As my wife was out, I took the opportunity to dry the calipers in the oven. This was stinky

 

 

but worked, and the smell had mostly dissippated by the time she got home.

 

Next up is to get a caliper refurb kit to replace all the rubbers, I managed to track down a complete and decent-looking master cylinder - the exact same one that was fitted before and it ultra-rare - on ebay and have that and some new pads arriving next week. I hope to be able to overhaul and refit the calipers next weekend, and try to get the engine running again. I'm dangerously close to haveing a Geep that starts, runs and stops as well now!

 

With the new master cylinder I can bleed all the manky old brake fluid out with the help of an assistant and/or my ezi-bleed kit. we're doing pretty well I think. Oh, I made another floor section from dibond sheet too, so I now have footwells on both sides and a rear floor. Its not held down yet, but wouldn't be hard to do if needed.

 

 

[richardmorris]

Right, verious things occurred today. I think they were all positive.

 

When I woke up it was sunny and relatively warm for February. I had a can of pepsi for breakfast and mooched out the the Geep. Earlier in the week I'd cleaned up the dizzy which we removed the other weekend and fitted the new points.

 

DSC_0004.JPG

 

I gapped the points to 25 thou which is what they are supposed to be and set to refitting them. Then I realised that it would probably be a good idea to see if I could extract the oil filter while I had a bit of extra room to get at it. The bastard thing was seized in place from years of corrosion of the steel rim of the filter to the ally housing it lives on. I'd tried heating it but all i managed to do was set fire to the label of the oil pressure gauge wire. I decided the easiest thing to do was remove the housing from the block and see what i could do with it with full access.

 

It looks like access is alright in situ, but its deceptive - you can get at it, but there are lots of things in the way whichever way you try and attack it. So 3 bolts removed and a bit of wiggling and out it came

 

DSC_0024.JPG

 

with it removed (its basically a 90 degree elbow) I could get at it a lot easier. Into the vice you go

 

DSC_0018.JPG

 

And attacked with the chain wrench and it released its grip eventually. Horrible little thing

 

DSC_0019.JPG

 

astonishingly the £3 filter that I orderded from ebay, which came from flipping belfast fitted perfectly

 

DSC_0022.JPG

 

DSC_0023.JPG

 

Then refitted it to the block. Job's a good'un.

 

Next up was getting the dizzy back in. There are no pictures of this because it was a horrible fiddly job but its now back in, with the rotor arm pointing at the plug for cylinder #1 with cylinder #1 at what I determined to be TDC with a screwdriver down the spark plug hole. This might be about right, or 180 degrees out depending on whether I was lucky or not.

 

This has filled the hole, which was the important thing as it had been blocked up with an old sock for a fortnight while I fiddled with all of this.

 

next up was to look at the brakes. I'd freed them up with the grease gun the other weekend, and the pistons were in Ok shape, I removed the seals which I'll replace with a refurb kit but I needed to get the leftover grease out. First of all I tried rodding the grease out with bent wire which was moderately successful, then I tried boiling them in water on a tranjia which sort of worked too. Then I decided I'd have a go with the pressure washer which worked REALLY well. it blasted the grease out really well and I think they are pretty much grease free now.

 

As my wife was out, I took the opportunity to dry the calipers in the oven. This was stinky

 

DSC_0026.JPG

 

but worked, and the smell had mostly dissippated by the time she got home.

 

Next up is to get a caliper refurb kit to replace all the rubbers, I managed to track down a complete and decent-looking master cylinder - the exact same one that was fitted before and it ultra-rare - on ebay and have that and some new pads arriving next week. I hope to be able to overhaul and refit the calipers next weekend, and try to get the engine running again. I'm dangerously close to haveing a Geep that starts, runs and stops as well now!

 

With the new master cylinder I can bleed all the manky old brake fluid out with the help of an assistant and/or my ezi-bleed kit. we're doing pretty well I think. Oh, I made another floor section from dibond sheet too, so I now have footwells on both sides and a rear floor. Its not held down yet, but wouldn't be hard to do if needed.

If you need hotter, I have a 900 max degree muffle furnace at work. Gu24

[Stanky]

Crumbs, I'll try harder not to piss you off in that case!

 

"No officer, I have no idea who you are talking about"

 

Thanks, I'll let you know how I get on when I re-assemble it all but even hi-temp grease wouldn't survive 900 celcius so good to know.

[richardmorris]

It’s only tiny, perhaps 10litres, one limb bit at a time

No residue!

 

I thought you may be wanting to get rid of old paint etc. Not the wife!

 

A bit like these..

https://www.carbolite-gero.com/products/chamber-furnaces/ashing-furnaces/aaf-18-litre/function-features/

[Squire_Dawson]

Good progress. Meths or trichloroethylene on the brake parts is the stuff to use as it is safe for braking systems. A smear of clean oil on the oil filter rubber sealing ring aids future removal.

[Stanky]

 A smear of clean oil on the oil filter rubber sealing ring aids future removal.

 

Yes forgot to mention that - I always make sure to do this and have never had any difficulty removing filters that i have previously fitted, for the sake of an oily finger and 5 seconds its always worth doing.

[Stanky]

An question.

 

How do I know whether my calipers are Type 16p (imperial) ot type 16m (Metric)?

 

I've lost a bleed screw which looks identical to this

 

 

but I'm damned if I'm going to pay £8 each for replacements from ford.

 

This is also important because I need a caliper refurb kit, the caliper has the following cast into it

 

 

I *think* this says

 

Type-16

84328872

W8

SWS 23382 (looks to have been stamped in with a punch, manually?

 

is this enough to identify what they were originally from so I can get a pair of bleed screws and 2 overhaul kits from ebay?

[Stanky]

I'm a bit more perplexed this morning, having measured the width of the threaded section its either 0.384" or 9.72mm

 

this is neither 3/8" or 10mm? or am I doing it wrong? It seems closer to 3/8" to me...

[mitsisigma01]

Bag it all up and take to the local helpful motor factors not halfords . Is there anything local to Stub ?

[Stanky]

A helpful post on Turbosport which said:

 

"Basically the calliper was the same. Except that Ford had the mounting holes 5mm out compared with those on TRs. The diameter was the same but the tops were machined differently; the M16 having a double seal with a spring retainer and the P16 having the PB seal which was a rubber seal"

 

Now I know the piston is held in with a double seal and spring retainer on these ones, so I have ordered a set of  M16 bleed nipples and two M16 refurb kits to overhaul the rubbers. I'll try the bleed nipples first as i know I'll be able to return the refurb kit (they do both types) if they are unused.

 

The calipers have had a dribble of brake fluid put into the bores and the pistons refitted without the seals in place and I've spun them round and round so they are nice and lubed up. Hopefully the bleed nipples and overhaul kit will show up in the week and I can get cracking with rebuilding and refitting the brakes next weekend.

 

All of this has just been funded by selling a mower which is a bonus.

[Stanky]

So, I have the day off today and some gubbinz arrived in the post for me, so here is a minor update on the brake rebuild process.

 

This is what arrived in the post an hour or so ago

 

A bag of eyes (!), bleed nipples for M16 calipers and two caliper rebuild kits for the same. The calipers could have been either P16 (imperial) or M16 (metric) - apparently they are almost identical but a thread on another forum suggested that the seals that my calipers have around the piston means they are M16 ones. I took a gamble on the overhaul kit and bleed screws.

 

First of all i opened up the bleed nipples and tried to fit them. The rationale was these were cheaper than the overhaul kits and if they were wrong, I could just get anohter bag of bleed screws and send the refurb kit back to swap for the other type. As luck would have it, the bleed screws went in absolutely fine, clearly right for the job. This was a good omen.

 

 

I fitted all 4 for now, and did them up finger-tight to stop the brake fluid I'd tipped in to lube the pistons from escaping. I'll have 2 spares when they are on the car, as one of each caliper will come out to screw the brake pipe in instead.

 

Next up was pulling the pistons out, fitting the rubber seals, refitting the pistons then putting the outser seals on.

 

 

This was fiddly but ultimately worked, the seals went in fine, I rubbed them with brake fluid then slid the pistons back in carefully. With the pistons back in, I carefully fitted the outer seal round the lip of the piston, then folded it back over the caliper rim. It took a couple of goes on the first one but then i got the idea and it was a lot easier on #2 and #3. The fourth one was a bit harder, I had to carefully scrub out the inner seal mounting ring with a toothbrush to get it to seat properly then I put the piston in on the wonk. eventually I managed to sort it properly and fit the 4 retaining spring things before bolting the two halves back together, replacing the little o-ring that goes between the two halves to keep the fluidway sealed.

 

 

Job done. I slid the pins in, fitted the anti-squeal shim things and put them away on the bench. I need the pads to arrive then I can refit the calipers and pads to the front hubs.

 

Next up was ftting the eyelet to the LT side of the coil wire as this was all a bit lashed up until now - it now fits on the thread of the coil properly which should help get decent current to the coil.

 

Next up will be fitting pads and the master cylinder then bleeding the system until I get fresh brake fluid at the pistons/cylinders on all 4 wheels. Hopefully the weekend will be nice and I can get this sorted and potentially take it for a short test run to make sure the gearbox and clutch work.

[eddyramrod]

Top work!

[chodweaver]

 

And you are being ably assisted by Bertie Bassett?

Sweet!

Sent from my BV6000 using Tapatalk

[chodweaver]

If it was me, I'd be getting very precious about my newly refurbed calipers, and thinking about pushing all the old shitty brake fluid out of the master cylinder and pipes before connecting the calipers up...

 

Just saying, like...

 

Completely addicted to this thread. Great stuff.

[Stanky]

s'not a bad idea on reflection!

[Stanky]

Back at work today and some treasure has arrived in my absence

 

 

From Asda of all places, and made with the good stuff

 

 

They do have a warning so thats something...

 

Next up, the party piece

 

 

(Sorry Dan!) These are like hens teeth, I was astonished when a near-mint one showed up on ebay. I bid it up to £27 and won it to my amazement. This is identical to the one I broke so I know it fits and works and stuff. All it was missing was the tiny clip that holds the rod from the pedal in the bore, but I have one of these from my broken one already so thats all good.

 

Roll on the weekend, we should be able to get the braking system put together and potentially bled up too. I need to work out if this master cylinder needs refurbing or if its serviceable.

 

w00p w00p

[darkfour]

Bench bleed the MC before refitting, it'll save much time and effort than trying to do it on the car.

[fraser.innes.3]

I hope the missus does not note the extra wear on her toothbrush!

 

Sent from my SM-J320FN using Tapatalk

[danthecapriman]

Nice. Good job finding that master cylinder, you’ve payed less for it than getting either a new one or an old one refurbed which is always a bonus!

Those pads look old. Don’t go snorting lines of brake dust though Huw, tempting as it might be!

[bigfella2]

They must be old, asbestos was banned in pads and clutches in 1999, but there were exceptions. See this

http://www.hse.gov.uk/mvr/mechanical-repair/asbestos.htm

[Stanky]

As late as that?I'm surprised, I guessed it was earlier than that. They do look fairly elderly, but were cheap, and fitted the bill. I decided that brake pads probably didn't oxidise or anything so wouldn't be worse for having sat in someone's shed for a decade or two.

[danthecapriman]

They must be old, asbestos was banned in pads and clutches in 1999, but there were exceptions. See this

http://www.hse.gov.uk/mvr/mechanical-repair/asbestos.htm

Makes you wonder about back in the day when you’d check your brakes and blow all the dust off... or the mechanic used and airline to do the same thing. All that asbestos and brake dust blowing around, what you were breathing in without giving it a thought.

My Capris clutch was an original Ford part, I bet that had asbestos in it too. I didn’t even think about it tbh when I changed it.

[Stanky]

Weekend update time. Grab a chair and a cup of tea.

 

To start with, I planned to do this all yesterday however as i will explain this didn't quite go to plan. Anyway, yesterday early afternoon I put on my manky car fixing clothes and went out with a plan to reinstate the overhauled braking bits.

 

First of all, the new master cylinder

 

This arrived earlier in the week, here it is on my desk at work. Recovered home I undid the blanking screws from all 3 circuits

 

 

and shook the remains of the old brake fluid out and gently cleaned the threads with an old toothbrush.

 

I took it out to the Geep, wire brushed the studs and then painted them with some copper grease

 

 

Then put the M/C into place and did up the nuts hand-tight

 

 

So far so good. In retrospect I should have connected the pushrod on the bench and slid this back through the hole in the bulkhead because fitting this later, with the master cylinder in situ was a complete git. Anyway, this fitted perfectly and as you can see I did the unions up so all 3 circuits were connected again. The front drivers side wheel one was also a git, it goes in underneath the master cylinder, you can't see it, and it looks like it goes in vertically. After much swearing, I had a close look at the old one to discover that the union actually screws in at a slight angle, I tried a few more times then eventually managed to get it to bite and tightened it up. This tokes forever as because of the haphazard engine bay you can only get about 1/4096th of a turn with a spanner at a time and there are three unions to do up...

 

I put a bit of brake fluid into the reservoir and then realised that as the caliper end was not actually blocked off it just slowly dripped all over my drive. idiot.

 

At this point, we were on schedule, and it was time to get the calipers and refit them. However this was also the point that a chap arrived who'd bought the kippered 1100cc engine that came free with the Jago from ebay. I expected we'd just lump it into his car, he'd give me some notes and drive away, but how wrong I was.

 

He was an interesting chap, had a good look at the Geep and we chatted about it, then he started telling me about how he stripped the crossflows for parts for historic formula ford. An hour and a quarter later we finally parted ways. As I said, interesting chap but this somewhat derailed plans as it was now getting dark. I made £30 from a totally fucked, seized, incomplete engine and he got some valuable bits to keep some FF cars going so everyone was a winner. This offsets the cost of the master cylinder which has been the biggest single expense so far at £27. I think the net total now is about £50

 

I frantically fitted the asbestos-laden pads and shim things to the rebuilt calipers and whipped the driver side front wheel off. In record time I fitted the drivers side caliper. Then realised I'd fitted it upside down.

 

 

In even-faster-than-record time I removed it, fitted pads and shims to the other one and then bolted this on with the stone deflector thing and then did up the brake line.

 

I then went to the other side and did the same, it was getting quite dark by this point so I frantically did it all up, chucked all the tools into the geep and went inside for the evening.

 

This morning I went out early to carry on where I left off. First job was to fit the pushrod between the master cylinder and brake pedal. As I said this should have been done on the bench because its very difficult to do in situ, especually as the floor of the Geep lacks structural integrity! through a combination of a minisule amount of skill and a vast amount of luck it went it, I slid the rod in to attach it to the pedal end and fitted the clevis pin.Then I fitted the circlip to keep the pushrod ball steady in the master cylinder. Astonishly this all went to plan, but it would have been a great deal easier had i done it all on the bench and fitted it as a one complete unit.

 

So, with all the circuits connected up it was time to try and bleed the system. I have a gunson ezi-bleed which I've never used and have lost the instructions for so now seemed the perfect time to try it out. I took off a back wheel to use the tyre pressure to pressurise the ezi-bleed

 

 

Then deflated it to 'safe' pressure of about 14psi

 

 

Then went round the front. I filled the bottle about 2/3rds full of brake fluid, topped up the reservoir to mid-way, connected it all up to the tyre and wedged the bottle in place

 

 

Then went back to the rear wheel to fit the clear hose to the bleed screw. Except there wasn't one. FFS. I'm a cretin and hadn't realised how it works. There are 3 circuits - front left, front right and both rears. The rear line goes from the M/C to the rear drivers side wheel, then out of that along the axle to the passenger side which is where the bleed screw is. I left the drivers side on an axle stand and jacked up the passenger side rear.

 

Hooked up the pipe to the bleed screw and fitted an 11mm ring spanner to it and gently undid the screw.

 

 

Nothing. Undid it a bit more

 

Still nothing.

 

Went back round the front to check the ezi bleed was fitted properly. It was. Went back to the rear axle to be greeted by a drip of brake fluid - ah HA!

 

 

well, it wasn't exactly gushing out. There was a drip every 2 seconds or so so i left it to drip - I could see the 'silt' coming out with some orangey brake fluid, slowly it cleared through until i could see fresh fluid some through the clear pipe. I wasn't sure if the tyre pressure was too low or if this was normal, having never done this before.

 

I nipped up the bleed screw and went round to the front passenger side wheel. I repeated the process, though again the flow was very very slow. It seemed to stop after a while so i had a good look at the gunson, after much mucking about I realised that there was a blockage in the pipe so the contents of the bottle weren't getting through, I rodded this out with a bit of wire then fitted it all back together - this revolutionised things! Suddenly there was good pressure, cracking the bleed nut lead to lots of bubbles then a flow of lager-colour fresh brake fluid coming through. I nipped up the nut then hit the drivers side. All good here - lets have a good look at the top side.

 

 

Whoops - thats a bit full!

 

 

The only syringe I had was a 2ml one, it worked but took ages to get the reservoir back to where it should have been. stupid thing.

 

So, triple checked it was all tightened up, lid back on the reservoir and gave the brake pedal a good shove. It went straight to the floor with a loud 'squelch' noise. Balls. Try again, same result.

 

AAAAARRGHHHHH! bloody thing. I conscripted my daughter to push the pedal while I looked underneath to see where it was escaping from. with a good shove of the pedal I could see the fresh fluid shoot out the brand new bleed nipple on the drivers side. FFS. I undid the new nipple and quickly refitted the old one, nipped it up, then asked her to press the pedal again. This time it shot out the new nipple on the passenger side one. Load of old tosh.

 

Luckily I had found the other missing old bleed nipple in the bucket of diesel and had fished it out. I did the same on this side, rolling around in gallons of brake fluid on a freezing cold drive wondering what I'd done to deserve this. with the old bleed nipple refitted to the passenger side I asked my daughter - who was cold and bored - to try one more time. This time it leaked a bit from one of the unions on the master cylinder but I nipped this up with a spanner and had a fluid-tight system finally!

 

With all this done, I had to re-bleed it all again as air had got in the new bleed nipples so i re-bled both front circuits again.

 

I then coaxed my daughter out with some jelly beans to press the brake pedal while I spun the jacked-up front wheels. It only flipping worked! She's 8 and with her foot on the brake pedal I couldn't turn either front wheel no matter how hard I tried. Excellent. She let go and I could spin the wheels again so it looks like the caliper refurb has worked and I now have brake function as I'd expect. I moved on and did the same on the rear axle and after another quick bleed of the passenger side I got the same result there. Good stuff!

 

There are a few other niggly issues - the rear drivers side wheel doesn't spin freely, there is a stiff spot every 180 degrees when you spin the wheel by hand and that will need investigating. It might sort itself out with some use or the rear pads might be dragging a bit I'm not sure. The drum might be slightly ovalled too which would be annoying. We shall see.

 

With braking restored I tried turning the engine over to see if I could engage gears but I need to sort out the timing after pulling the dizzy as it chugged over but wouldn't fire. thats something for next weekend I think as its too damn cold here today. My fingers were totally numb after 4 hours of rolling about covered in brake fluid so I called it a day. I need to sort out the timing and get it fired up then try the clutch out. its free on the pedal so hopefully OK. Then if that works we can take it on a little test drive - the first time it's moved under its own power in 3 years and probably the first time it has braking force in about 12 years!

 

Having never really 'done' brakes before I think it has gone pretty well. I have certainly learned a lot. Time will tell if its been any good but I really need to get up to 20mph and apply them to see what happens. Hopefully the intended result!

 

As always, thanks for reading.

[Dave_Q]

Appreciating the honest words about the levels of carry-on achieved doing jobs that should be relatively simple.

 

I for one know KNOW THAT FEEL BRO, and I'm sure many others do too. 

 

Good progress though, and did you get anywhere with investigating whether it was registered previously on it's Jago chassis number?

 

I think if you PM ME HUN the chassis number I can have a go at looking up whether it's linked to a reg?

[Stanky]

Ah yes, so its got a Jago Chassis number which is good, but has never been registered with the DVLA which is bad - so it looks like the only way this will see the road will be an IVA which is annoying. I want to get it starting, running, driving and stopping as a first step, then I can play about with electrics if needed. I might just keep it as an OLLI offroad wanker weekend toy, or flog it not really sure yet. For now its just fun to have something to tinker with, especially when I learn something doing it.