D Spares & Tyres Posted December 1, 2017 Author Share Posted December 1, 2017 And talking of fluorescent lights... I use a strip light as my worklamp. Its like daylight under the car with that under there! Turned it on today and it immediately stopped working. After some investigation it turned out to be wet inside, but not just wet. It was blue came slightly sticky. Turns out the radiator on the Wolseley has a slight leak and has been slowly dripping inside the light unit and burned a diode out by the look of itSods law.Ah well, I sorted another light out and got to work. Years of having a leaky windscreen had rotted out not only the floorpan but also the dashboardAt least it gave me access to this bit of rotNot the prettiest repair but it will be out of sightSo that's the passenger compartment of the car now finished and weather proofed. The only job left to do in there is to chop a section out of the top of the chassis rail to access the captive bolts on the drivers side of the gearbox crossmember. They unbolted fine but started spinning when it was time to put the crossmember back. Cardinal Wolseley, catsinthewelder, paulplom and 9 others 12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D Spares & Tyres Posted December 1, 2017 Author Share Posted December 1, 2017 I moved on to the front of the main chassis rail. It looked solid enough and even with a good poking with a screwdriver I only made a couple of small holes.So I attacked the first hole with a wire brush on the grinder and it got bigger so cut it out furtherBut what to do about the rest? It is solid and would pass a test but it looks a mess. Patches on patches and some of it is quite thin. Not sure if that is due to rust or if they just used thin gauge steel but think i will cut it all out and start again.I want to fill it with wax after welding so may as well do a proper job rather that catch all the wax on fire in a couple of years when it would need welding again!Made a plate to fit what I had cut out so far. Overkill?That's today's work done, might do some more tomorrow,I'm actually enjoying this a little bit Here is what it looks like underneath... Cardinal Wolseley, theshadow, Sudsprint and 7 others 10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squire_Dawson Posted December 1, 2017 Share Posted December 1, 2017 Splendid work. I imagine there will be a que of people wanting first refusal once it's ready. I had my MO radiator completely re-cored and pressure tested &c by a local old boy one-man-band firm and it cost £190. Expensive, but it was a big old rad. D Spares & Tyres 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mally Posted December 1, 2017 Share Posted December 1, 2017 My chassis always went where the torsion bar is bolted through. Had it on Minors and Riley/Wolseley.Used to bolt a 3"x 3" angle iron down the chassis about 3 ft long.Let me be the first to refuse first refusal. D Spares & Tyres 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D Spares & Tyres Posted December 6, 2017 Author Share Posted December 6, 2017 Bit more progress today The front crossmember was rather ripeSo I removed itAnd made a new oneThere was a patch on the drivers side chassis leg that somebody had put there years ago. Just clean up their pigeon shit welds then clean with wire wheel on the grinder, then paint. Front end will then be done.More holes... Oh well, I'll cut that off tomorrow and make a better one.. theshadow, johngarty, Sigmund Fraud and 9 others 12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danthecapriman Posted December 6, 2017 Share Posted December 6, 2017 Front cross member looks bloody good! Nice job. D Spares & Tyres 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D Spares & Tyres Posted December 6, 2017 Author Share Posted December 6, 2017 Splendid work. I imagine there will be a que of people wanting first refusal once it's ready. I had my MO radiator completely re-cored and pressure tested &c by a local old boy one-man-band firm and it cost £190. Expensive, but it was a big old rad.That's not cheap. I thought the re core on my Triumph Acclaim was dear at £120! However, after some investigation it turns out it was the water pump leaking. I got the one on the Standard rebuilt in Wolverhampton by man in a shed for very reasonable price Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D Spares & Tyres Posted December 6, 2017 Author Share Posted December 6, 2017 My chassis always went where the torsion bar is bolted through. Had it on Minors and Riley/Wolseley.Used to bolt a 3"x 3" angle iron down the chassis about 3 ft long.Let me be the first to refuse first refusal.The plan was to sell it but I have put so many hours into it already I ought to run it for a bit. At least for next summer! What would it be worth? My hourly rate would be around 10p probably Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I_am_Diesel Posted December 6, 2017 Share Posted December 6, 2017 That's some great work you are doing there. Those Wolsleys always seem to be overlooked but they are fine cars. D Spares & Tyres 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mally Posted December 6, 2017 Share Posted December 6, 2017 The plan was to sell it but I have put so many hours into it already I ought to run it for a bit. At least for next summer! What would it be worth? My hourly rate would be around 10p probably Last one I bought cost £8 from Green Bros Scrapyard, there's houses on it now.I do between 4 to 8 hours a day in the garage. My hourly rate has been zero for the last 17 years. D Spares & Tyres 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D Spares & Tyres Posted December 6, 2017 Author Share Posted December 6, 2017 That's some great work you are doing there. Those Wolsleys always seem to be overlooked but they are fine cars.Driven by paedos, someone on here once said Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I_am_Diesel Posted December 6, 2017 Share Posted December 6, 2017 Driven by paedos, someone on here once saidJimmy Savile? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Asimo Posted December 6, 2017 Share Posted December 6, 2017 Worth a good look at those drag links. They rust inside the rubber bushes until there is no metal left but they look OK because the rust sticks the rubber bushes in place. D Spares & Tyres 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D Spares & Tyres Posted December 7, 2017 Author Share Posted December 7, 2017 Jimmy Savile?No I don't think he was on here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D Spares & Tyres Posted December 7, 2017 Author Share Posted December 7, 2017 Worth a good look at those drag links. They rust inside the rubber bushes until there is no metal left but they look OK because the rust sticks the rubber bushes in place.image.jpegThanks I'll take a look. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D Spares & Tyres Posted December 7, 2017 Author Share Posted December 7, 2017 What's happened here then?Something has happened to the suspension. It has damaged the car here. Someone has 'fixed' it though...This thing has been welded on. There has been one added on the other side too. Some kind of bumpstop??? johngarty and theshadow 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Asimo Posted December 7, 2017 Share Posted December 7, 2017 Looks like a bodged on upper mount for a telescopic damper. Or if you mean the damage at the front of the slot by the upper suspension link maybe the lever arm damper came adrift. The four mounting bolts do come loose sometimes and / or break. D Spares & Tyres 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cros Posted December 7, 2017 Share Posted December 7, 2017 I had one of these until recently. It became quite wayward and the reason was the radius rod had rotted through inside the rubber bush where it joins the chassis. Not spottable by the mot man, but could be nasty. The gear lever was weirdly short and the boot lid very heavy, mine had the early exposed hinges. I liked it. D Spares & Tyres 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Asimo Posted December 7, 2017 Share Posted December 7, 2017 There should be a rubber bumpstop that acts on the top of the upper trunion - it seems to be missing.This pic. is a Minor, but everything in the front suspension is the same as I remember. D Spares & Tyres 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D Spares & Tyres Posted December 8, 2017 Author Share Posted December 8, 2017 Yes I know about the bumpstops, the mounting on the other side was rotten but I remade it. This side is saveable I think. I don't have the rubbers though. I'm guessing that in normal usage I won't need them?? I'll chop off the extra shock mounts then I know nothing of trunnions but I assume I put oil in the nipples, not grease? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mally Posted December 8, 2017 Share Posted December 8, 2017 Grease the trunnions...............often.The bottom one can* fall off, the torsion bar is perminently pulling down on it.I used to carry a lump hammer and piece of chain to reattach it and chain it together to get home.If the suspension is low I thinks there's an adjusting bolt on the lever at the rear of the torsion bar.You can also knock the arm off the splines and reposition it if necessary. D Spares & Tyres 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cros Posted December 8, 2017 Share Posted December 8, 2017 Just listed a couple of 1500 hub caps for free in the foresail section. D Spares & Tyres 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martc Posted December 8, 2017 Share Posted December 8, 2017 Yes I know about the bumpstops... I'm guessing that in normal usage I won't need them?? With the current state of our roads I'd suggest raising the whole thing an extra 12 inches. D Spares & Tyres, Talbot, Isaac Hunt and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Asimo Posted December 8, 2017 Share Posted December 8, 2017 You definately need the bump rubbers, things will get broken without them! Easy to get. And grease for the trunnions, very often. I think it's Triumph trunnions that are designed for oil. D Spares & Tyres 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D Spares & Tyres Posted December 14, 2017 Author Share Posted December 14, 2017 Done a little bit more on the Holeseley. Chopped the extra shock mount off and surprise, surprise I found a hole behind it. Tidied up the damaged area from a previous suspension collapse!Bump stop mount and inner wing turned out to be crispier than I thought too so I chopped it outAll my illusions about being able to sort this side of the car out without removing the wing are rapidly being eroded... The wing is a mess anyway so I was only kidding myself! Ah well more welding. Not much else I can do on it in this cold anyway Squire_Dawson, danthecapriman, Cardinal Wolseley and 10 others 13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Reverend Bluejeans Posted December 14, 2017 Share Posted December 14, 2017 GRP wings FTW. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Reverend Bluejeans Posted December 14, 2017 Share Posted December 14, 2017 This one met its end in 1969. danthecapriman, mercrocker, D Spares & Tyres and 2 others 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D Spares & Tyres Posted December 14, 2017 Author Share Posted December 14, 2017 GRP wings FTW.I have only ever put fibreglass wings on a car once. Never again. Time consuming to fit properly and they never look as good as steel. I'll fix this one, the drivers side was worse. The Reverend Bluejeans 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squire_Dawson Posted December 14, 2017 Share Posted December 14, 2017 BMC chod with a front wheel horizontal used to be a common sight on the roads. Neglect the front trunnions at your peril! D Spares & Tyres, mercrocker and Mally 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D Spares & Tyres Posted December 14, 2017 Author Share Posted December 14, 2017 I snapped a ball join on a Niva once and I have no desire to repeat that so the trunnions will be respected! Scruffy Bodger 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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