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Holesley 1500 Progress


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#31 ONLINE   D Spares & Tyres

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Posted 01 December 2017 - 05:24 PM

And talking of fluorescent lights...

I use a strip light as my worklamp. Its like daylight under the car with that under there! Turned it on today and it immediately stopped working. After some investigation it turned out to be wet inside, but not just wet. It was blue came slightly sticky. Turns out the radiator on the Wolseley has a slight leak and has been slowly dripping inside the light unit and burned a diode out by the look of itIMG_20171201_114142.jpg
Sods law.
Ah well, I sorted another light out and got to work. Years of having a leaky windscreen had rotted out not only the floorpan but also the dashboardIMG_20171201_115149.jpg
At least it gave me access to this bit of rotIMG_20171201_115156.jpg
Not the prettiest repair but it will be out of sightIMG_20171201_145346.jpg
So that's the passenger compartment of the car now finished and weather proofed. The only job left to do in there is to chop a section out of the top of the chassis rail to access the captive bolts on the drivers side of the gearbox crossmember. They unbolted fine but started spinning when it was time to put the crossmember back. IMG_20171201_130210.jpg
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#32 ONLINE   D Spares & Tyres

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Posted 01 December 2017 - 07:32 PM

I moved on to the front of the main chassis rail. It looked solid enough and even with a good poking with a screwdriver I only made a couple of small holes.IMG_20171201_132408.jpg
So I attacked the first hole with a wire brush on the grinder and it got bigger so cut it out furtherIMG_20171201_135013.jpg
But what to do about the rest? It is solid and would pass a test but it looks a mess. Patches on patches and some of it is quite thin. Not sure if that is due to rust or if they just used thin gauge steel but think i will cut it all out and start again.I want to fill it with wax after welding so may as well do a proper job rather that catch all the wax on fire in a couple of years when it would need welding again!
Made a plate to fit what I had cut out so far. Overkill?IMG_20171201_134710.jpg
That's today's work done, might do some more tomorrow,
I'm actually enjoying this a little bit IMG_20171201_144759.jpg
Here is what it looks like underneath...

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#33 OFFLINE   Squire_Dawson

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Posted 01 December 2017 - 08:08 PM

Splendid work. I imagine there will be a que of people wanting first refusal once it's ready. I had my MO radiator completely re-cored and pressure tested &c by a local old boy one-man-band firm and it cost £190. Expensive, but it was a big old rad.


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Squeak, rattle and roll.

 

 

Thanks restorer.

 

SAVE OUR PANGOLINS.

 

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1975 Austin Allegro 1100 DL - m'Lod


#34 ONLINE   Mally

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Posted 01 December 2017 - 08:23 PM

My chassis always went where the torsion bar is bolted through. Had it on Minors and Riley/Wolseley.

Used to bolt a 3"x 3" angle iron down the chassis about 3 ft long.

Let me be the first to refuse first refusal.


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#35 ONLINE   D Spares & Tyres

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Posted 06 December 2017 - 06:15 PM

Bit more progress today

The front crossmember was rather ripeIMG_20171204_114214.jpg IMG_20171204_114241.jpg IMG_20171204_120649.jpg
So I removed itIMG_20171204_124401.jpg
And made a new oneIMG_20171205_145013.jpg IMG_20171205_144912.jpg IMG_20171205_144828.jpg
There was a patch on the drivers side chassis leg that somebody had put there years ago. Just clean up their pigeon shit welds then clean with wire wheel on the grinder, then paint. Front end will then be done.IMG_20171206_111559.jpg
More holes... Oh well, I'll cut that off tomorrow and make a better one..
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#36 ONLINE   danthecapriman

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Posted 06 December 2017 - 06:19 PM

Front cross member looks bloody good! Nice job.
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#37 ONLINE   D Spares & Tyres

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Posted 06 December 2017 - 06:21 PM

Splendid work. I imagine there will be a que of people wanting first refusal once it's ready. I had my MO radiator completely re-cored and pressure tested &c by a local old boy one-man-band firm and it cost £190. Expensive, but it was a big old rad.

That's not cheap. I thought the re core on my Triumph Acclaim was dear at £120!

However, after some investigation it turns out it was the water pump leaking. I got the one on the Standard rebuilt in Wolverhampton by man in a shed for very reasonable price

#38 ONLINE   D Spares & Tyres

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Posted 06 December 2017 - 06:24 PM

My chassis always went where the torsion bar is bolted through. Had it on Minors and Riley/Wolseley.
Used to bolt a 3"x 3" angle iron down the chassis about 3 ft long.
Let me be the first to refuse first refusal.

The plan was to sell it but I have put so many hours into it already I ought to run it for a bit. At least for next summer! What would it be worth? My hourly rate would be around 10p probably

#39 OFFLINE   I_am_Diesel

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Posted 06 December 2017 - 06:26 PM

That's some great work you are doing there.

 

Those Wolsleys always seem to be overlooked but they are fine cars.


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#40 ONLINE   Mally

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Posted 06 December 2017 - 06:39 PM

The plan was to sell it but I have put so many hours into it already I ought to run it for a bit. At least for next summer! What would it be worth? My hourly rate would be around 10p probably

 

Last one I bought cost £8 from Green Bros Scrapyard, there's houses on it now.

I do between 4 to 8 hours a day in the garage. My hourly rate has been zero for the last 17 years.


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#41 ONLINE   D Spares & Tyres

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Posted 06 December 2017 - 09:08 PM

That's some great work you are doing there.
 
Those Wolsleys always seem to be overlooked but they are fine cars.


Driven by paedos, someone on here once said

#42 OFFLINE   I_am_Diesel

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Posted 06 December 2017 - 09:22 PM

Driven by paedos, someone on here once said

Jimmy Savile?


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#43 ONLINE   Asimo

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Posted 06 December 2017 - 09:23 PM

Worth a good look at those drag links. They rust inside the rubber bushes until there is no metal left but they look OK because the rust sticks the rubber bushes in place.

image.jpeg
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#44 ONLINE   D Spares & Tyres

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Posted 07 December 2017 - 09:37 PM

Jimmy Savile?


No I don't think he was on here

#45 ONLINE   D Spares & Tyres

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Posted 07 December 2017 - 09:38 PM

Worth a good look at those drag links. They rust inside the rubber bushes until there is no metal left but they look OK because the rust sticks the rubber bushes in place.
attachicon.gifimage.jpeg

Thanks I'll take a look.

#46 ONLINE   D Spares & Tyres

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Posted 07 December 2017 - 09:38 PM

What's happened here then?IMG_20171207_211629.jpg
Something has happened to the suspension. It has damaged the car here. Someone has 'fixed' it though...IMG_20171207_211637.jpg
This thing has been welded on. There has been one added on the other side too. Some kind of bumpstop???

IMG_20171207_211643.jpg

#47 ONLINE   Asimo

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Posted 07 December 2017 - 09:46 PM

Looks like a bodged on upper mount for a telescopic damper.

Or if you mean the damage at the front of the slot by the upper suspension link maybe the lever arm damper came adrift. The four mounting bolts do come loose sometimes and / or break.
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#48 OFFLINE   cros

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Posted 07 December 2017 - 10:00 PM

I had one of these until recently. It became quite wayward and the reason was the radius rod had rotted through inside the rubber bush where it joins the chassis. Not spottable by the mot man, but could be nasty. The gear lever was weirdly short and the boot lid very heavy, mine had the early exposed hinges. I liked it.
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#49 ONLINE   Asimo

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Posted 07 December 2017 - 10:19 PM

There should be a rubber bumpstop that acts on the top of the upper trunion - it seems to be missing.
This pic. is a Minor, but everything in the front suspension is the same as I remember.image.jpeg
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#50 ONLINE   D Spares & Tyres

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Posted 08 December 2017 - 09:09 AM

Yes I know about the bumpstops, the mounting on the other side was rotten but I remade it. This side is saveable I think. I don't have the rubbers though. I'm guessing that in normal usage I won't need them??

I'll chop off the extra shock mounts then

I know nothing of trunnions but I assume I put oil in the nipples, not grease?

#51 ONLINE   Mally

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Posted 08 December 2017 - 09:56 AM

Grease the trunnions...............often.

The bottom one can* fall off, the torsion bar is perminently pulling down on it.

I used to carry a lump hammer and piece of chain to reattach it and chain it together to get home.

If the suspension is low I thinks there's an adjusting bolt on the lever at the rear of the torsion bar.

You can also knock the arm off the splines and reposition it if necessary.


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#52 OFFLINE   cros

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Posted 08 December 2017 - 11:16 AM

Just listed a couple of 1500 hub caps for free in the foresail section.
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#53 OFFLINE   martc

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Posted 08 December 2017 - 12:23 PM

Yes I know about the bumpstops... I'm guessing that in normal usage I won't need them??

 

With the current state of our roads I'd suggest raising the whole thing an extra 12 inches.

 

UK-Potholes.png


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#54 ONLINE   Asimo

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Posted 08 December 2017 - 01:20 PM

You definately need the bump rubbers, things will get broken without them! Easy to get.

And grease for the trunnions, very often.
I think it's Triumph trunnions that are designed for oil.
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#55 ONLINE   D Spares & Tyres

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Posted 14 December 2017 - 09:39 AM

Done a little bit more on the Holeseley. Chopped the extra shock mount off and surprise, surprise I found a hole behind it. Tidied up the damaged area from a previous suspension collapse!IMG_20171214_092512.jpg
Bump stop mount and inner wing turned out to be crispier than I thought too so I chopped it outIMG_20171214_092517.jpg
All my illusions about being able to sort this side of the car out without removing the wing are rapidly being eroded...

The wing is a mess anyway so I was only kidding myself!IMG_20171214_092529.jpg IMG_20171214_092544.jpg

Ah well more welding. Not much else I can do on it in this cold anyway
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#56 OFFLINE   The Reverend Bluejeans

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Posted 14 December 2017 - 01:28 PM

GRP wings FTW.


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#57 OFFLINE   The Reverend Bluejeans

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Posted 14 December 2017 - 01:40 PM

This one met its end in 1969.

 


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MASTER RACE MOTORS.

 

1989 F  730i. Prestigious.

1999 S  E36 318i Touring. Daily shitter.

1994 M 318Ti - Track whore


#58 ONLINE   D Spares & Tyres

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Posted 14 December 2017 - 03:59 PM

GRP wings FTW.

I have only ever put fibreglass wings on a car once. Never again. Time consuming to fit properly and they never look as good as steel. I'll fix this one, the drivers side was worse.
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#59 OFFLINE   Squire_Dawson

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Posted 14 December 2017 - 04:01 PM

BMC chod with a front wheel horizontal used to be a common sight on the roads. Neglect the front trunnions at your peril! 


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Squeak, rattle and roll.

 

 

Thanks restorer.

 

SAVE OUR PANGOLINS.

 

Current shite:

1952 Morris Oxford Series MO - The Oikmobile

1959 Morris Oxford Series IV Traveller - The Shite Station Wagon

1975 Austin Allegro 1100 DL - m'Lod


#60 ONLINE   D Spares & Tyres

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Posted 14 December 2017 - 08:56 PM

I snapped a ball join on a Niva once and I have no desire to repeat that so the trunnions will be respected!




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