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For Sale

Rover 75 CDT 160hp Connoisseur SE

For Sale

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52 replies to this topic

#31 OFFLINE   Mally

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Posted 08 November 2017 - 06:47 PM

And a half eaten twix?


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#32 OFFLINE   bezzabsa

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Posted 08 November 2017 - 06:49 PM

a whole one if needed


1999 Pink-ish Skoda felicia diesel

2003 Red Fiat Punto 1.2 8v 

2005 Citroen relay MWB Hi roof 2.2 Hdi

 

Both knees fooked, as are 2 disks in my back, and left hip..Diabetes, Chronic depression and rattle after taking my daily meds...Apart from that I'm fine!!!


#33 OFFLINE   NorfolkNWeigh

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Posted 08 November 2017 - 06:55 PM

I don't like these, yes heresy , I know.
But that's a pretty car and I'd definitely be up for a couple of tickets if it goes to roffle, just to make sure they're as shit as I think they are , of course.

#34 OFFLINE   Mally

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Posted 09 November 2017 - 09:42 AM

They're not all shit.

Just the ones with slipping clutch/slave cyl problems. cooling problems, belts need changing, hand brake inefficient, top and bottom rear arms corroded, front bottom arm ball joint/rubber bush knackered. Sills corroded at ends, coil springs broke, brake pipes corroded, central locking problems, rear tailgate strut mountings corroded, water leaks, only one key.

Very few of these can apply to this one, as it's diesel auto with 2 keys, but the last five certainly applied to mine.


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#35 OFFLINE   shumarialto

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Posted 09 November 2017 - 09:56 AM

They're not all shit.

Just the ones with slipping clutch/slave cyl problems. cooling problems, belts need changing, hand brake inefficient, top and bottom rear arms corroded, front bottom arm ball joint/rubber bush knackered. Sills corroded at ends, coil springs broke, brake pipes corroded, central locking problems, rear tailgate strut mountings corroded, water leaks, only one key.

Very few of these can apply to this one, as it's diesel auto with 2 keys, but the last five certainly applied to mine.

Your spot on. I have had a good few of these problems fixed on mine. Sill ends are starting to go so will be fixed next year, and now both front doors don't unlock off the fob. Still can't help but love it still, great to drive.



#36 OFFLINE   Mally

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Posted 09 November 2017 - 11:17 AM

I need a spare key, but they are around £100.

I'm hanging on, might need the cash to buy this one.



#37 OFFLINE   db123

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Posted 09 November 2017 - 08:12 PM

This is the nicest looking car for under a grand I've seen in a long time....
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#38 ONLINE   Roverageous

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Posted 12 November 2017 - 03:28 PM

Now sold.

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#39 OFFLINE   flat4alfa

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Posted 12 November 2017 - 04:59 PM

I can haz done the agreement to purchase this fine Anglo-German steed built at the acclaimed Longbridge Motoren Werke

It will move to live in Bedfordshire and get a good going over, relegating the existing (thoroughbred, yet inferior) BMW to WBOD #2

God Save The Queen!

This place, etc.
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Vauxhall FB VX4/90, Alfa 33 Mk1, BMW M46 Tourer, Rover R8 T-series, Rover R8 XUD, Alfa 156 derv Wagon, funny face Multipla derv, Honda Aerodeck
Daimler XJ40AvantimeX1/9Alfa 146 boxer, Acclaim, XM veg, Maxi, Alfa 6, Alfa 33 QV, Alfa 155, TreviBeta SaloonsLandcrab, P6BRover R8 dervs, FuegoAlfasuds128, 131 and everything else


#40 OFFLINE   MikeKnight

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Posted 12 November 2017 - 07:27 PM

Great cars. I love my 75 Diesel estate. BMW engine is rock solid and chain driven.

 

I assume the T4 update just unshackles the factory restraints on it. Quite a jump to 160 BHP from 116 though. How accurate is that?


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#41 ONLINE   gadgetgricey

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Posted 12 November 2017 - 07:33 PM

I assume the T4 update just unshackles the factory restraints on it. Quite a jump to 160 BHP from 116 though. How accurate is that?

 

Not had mine dyno'd but can well believe it.

The CDT was 110, and the CDTi was 135 as standard, both increase to 160bhp after the T4 work.


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Current fleet

 

75 CDT Auto Tourer

ZT-T Diesel Manual

LPG 4.0 Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ

Saab 9-3 Convertible 

Saab 9-5 Aero

Merc S430 Roffle Win

Focus 1.6 Auto

 


#42 OFFLINE   flat4alfa

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Posted 12 November 2017 - 08:18 PM

I haven't actually driven this past first gear yet, being SORN and non-insured. Some jobs there to do, can't kick tyres too hard at this money, it's nice enough to do them too. Mr Roverageous is a nice fella, hardier than I, it was too cold for me today even with a coat (southern puff)

Will be interesting to compare to my remapped Alfa 156 2.4 derv (originally shipped with 150) I've had years, but I'm getting old
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Vauxhall FB VX4/90, Alfa 33 Mk1, BMW M46 Tourer, Rover R8 T-series, Rover R8 XUD, Alfa 156 derv Wagon, funny face Multipla derv, Honda Aerodeck
Daimler XJ40AvantimeX1/9Alfa 146 boxer, Acclaim, XM veg, Maxi, Alfa 6, Alfa 33 QV, Alfa 155, TreviBeta SaloonsLandcrab, P6BRover R8 dervs, FuegoAlfasuds128, 131 and everything else


#43 ONLINE   Roverageous

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Posted 12 November 2017 - 09:08 PM

Not had mine dyno'd but can well believe it.
The CDT was 110, and the CDTi was 135 as standard, both increase to 160bhp after the T4 work.

It goes well enough. Similarly well to the Volvo which is 170hp, so I reckon the ballpark figure is about right. The diesel unit is not bad at all and it's one of the cars I've never had to worry about engine issues - it just does what is says on the tin day in day out.

It's also averaged 44mpg in my ownership (brim to brim all kept on a spreadsheet!) Which I don't think it's bad for an auto.

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#44 OFFLINE   flat4alfa

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Posted 13 November 2017 - 11:30 AM

That's comparable to the 2.4 JTD 5-cylinder in the Alfa.  That unit tends to get me 43mpg but I do tend to get a move on



#45 OFFLINE   Sealtainn

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Posted 15 November 2017 - 06:53 PM

I'll take a few tickets if it's up for roffle.

I reckon I could get away with this one as Mrs Seal has professed a "liking" for 75s


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#46 OFFLINE   MikeKnight

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Posted 16 November 2017 - 10:49 AM

The only downside I've found is my drive to work is only around 8 miles or so and the engine barely warms up in that time. So I drive to work shivering.

 

The Supra warms up almost immediately and lovely warm heaters within 5 minutes. But then again it does run on the blood of innocents.



#47 OFFLINE   flat4alfa

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Posted 16 November 2017 - 12:26 PM

Yes this was barely lukewarm on the day.  

 

Will have to to get that Webasto diesel pre-heater thing working I reckon.  Never seen one before. 


Vauxhall FB VX4/90, Alfa 33 Mk1, BMW M46 Tourer, Rover R8 T-series, Rover R8 XUD, Alfa 156 derv Wagon, funny face Multipla derv, Honda Aerodeck
Daimler XJ40AvantimeX1/9Alfa 146 boxer, Acclaim, XM veg, Maxi, Alfa 6, Alfa 33 QV, Alfa 155, TreviBeta SaloonsLandcrab, P6BRover R8 dervs, FuegoAlfasuds128, 131 and everything else


#48 OFFLINE   shumarialto

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Posted 16 November 2017 - 01:18 PM

The stats can jam open on the diesel's. If it never gets up to temp that may be the issue. Even when working they take a while to get fully up to temp. You can tell from the Diagnostic mode the actual temp the engine is at. Here is how copied from the 75 club page.

 

How To Use Diagnostic Mode

The following information originates from an old BMW document and may be ambiguous in parts due to differences in the MGR system. I've made the instructions easier to follow than the original. Any errors in this revised data are mine. Failure to activate the diagnostics routine is usually due to not pressing the button fast enough. If pressing is delayed for more than a second or so, it will revert back to the standard trip display. There are bits of it I don't yet understand, but most of the useful stuff is explained.

Enable Trip Screen Diagnostics:

a) Put key into ignition and turn it to position 1 (instruments activated).
a2) If you intend driving with diagnostic mode active, start the engine now.
B) Press and hold the trip reset button. This is the button sticking out near the speedometer.
c) Your LCD display will show "test 1.-"
d) Immediately press the reset button every half second until you get to "test 19.-". (19.0 allows access to diagnostic mode)
e) The display will now show alternating "Log 1 -on" / "Log 1 -off"
f) While it shows "Log 1 -off" press the reset button and. .
g) With no delay press within a half second (repeatedly if necessary) to get to the required section.
h) The screen will appear similar to the earlier one, but is a different series. Keep pressing every half second to select one of the following functions (there is no title on screen).

It's OK to drive the car with any particular diagnostic screen active (eg. coolant temperature). If it's displaying time, engine or speed related data, this will change in real time. DO NOT be tempted to swap between screens while driving! Turning off the ignition ends the diagnostic session. 

1 Car, Engine and Cluster Data
1.0 VIN serial number
1.1 K-number
1.2 Cluster Part Number
1.3 Coding (04)/diagnosis (52)/bus index (10)
1.4 Week of manufacture (eg. 1200 = week 12)/year of manufacture (eg. 2000)
1.5 Hardware number (eg. 09) and Software number (eg. 11600 = 16.0) of IPK.
1.6 Injection Status-number of cylinders-motor number

2 Cluster System Test
2.0 Activates the gauge drivers, indicators and LEDs to confirm function.
When function 2.0 is selected, the instrument pack provides a check of the warning lamps, major and minor gauges, displays and illumination functions. The gauge pointers are driven through their full arc and back again to check operation. All warning lamps are illuminated to check that none of the LEDs have failed. All yellow and red pixels of the message centre are flashed on and off in a chequered pattern to check that all elements of the display are functional.

3 Service Inspection (SI) Data
3.0 Fuel Used (in liters) since last Service Inspection
3.1 Periodic inspection days; elapsed days (since last SI)

4 Momentary Consumption
4.0 Momentary fuel consumption in litres/100km (eg. 0145 = 14.5 litres/100km)
4.1 Momentary fuel consumption in litres/hour (eg. 0018 = 1.8 l/hr)

5 Distance Gone Consumption
5.0 Average consumption in litres/100km (eg. 082 = 8.2 litres/100km)
5.1 Calculate distance ( km) to refuel (momentary distance to go)

6 Fuel Level Sensor Outputs in litres (Fuel tank has left and right side sensors)
6.0 Fuel levels both (eg: 109330 means left half sensor = 10.9 litres; right half sensor = 33.0 litres)
6.1 Total tank level (eg: 0439 is 10.9+33.0 = 43.9 litres)
6.2 Indicated value with diagnostics: The Test Number (6.2) is preceded by 1, 2 or 3 (eg. 1-6.2 or 2-6.2 or 3-6.2) 
If first digit is 1 - both sensors are OK. This is followed by three left signal digits, then three right signal digits.
If first digit is 2 - one sensor has an error. Side in error will display - - 0 . Functional side will show its three digits
If first digit is 3 - no sensor signal, no display. Probably - - 0 - - 0 (Needs confirming --- T-Cut)

EDIT 22 March 2013
The following note comes from tests I did in 2010.

Members who have had a go at this may have noticed that the routines for the fuel tank and sender units (Section 6) seem to be different from the instructions. Up to now, I hadn't ventured into the Test 6 part, but having now done so, I can report some observations.

Firstly, I think the instructions for Section 6 are wrong. I interpreted them from the original BMW document, from comments made on a BMW forum and from reports by members of the forums. In fact I now believe that the MGR version does not differentiate each sender's output, but simply displays an integral. It may well display a warning that one or both senders are faulty (the 1_6.2, 2_6.2 or 3_6.2 display), but more than that I now have doubts. 

In my own case, the displayed figures under each of the Test 6 subsections were the total fuel content. This varied significantly in real time when the car was rocked side to side. This shows that the floats were responding to the changing liquid surface. The integral is given in litres. When I converted this to gallons and used the average fuel consumption shown by the OBC, the calculated range was identical to that shown by the OBC. This proves the figures are total content only.

I suspect the original instructions were basically what the BMW diagnostics show. The MGR version seems to have been simplified somewhat.

7 Temperatures and Speeds
7.0 Coolant/Engine temperature - changes every whole degree Centigrade. (eg: 021+ is 21°C)
7.1 Ambient/Outside temperature - changes every 0.5 degree Centigrade. (eg.125/130/135 is 12.5°/13.0°/13.5°C)
7.2 Engine speed / Current (RPM)
7.3 Vehicle speed / Current Speed (km/hour)

8 Values of 7.0 to 7.3 in HEX form (Unknown)

9 Battery
9.0 Battery Voltage (eg: 137 = 13.7v)

10 Country Code
This is just a list. There may be a code displayed for each, which I don't have. I haven't physically checked.
0 = Germany
1 = Great Britain
2 = USA
3 = Italy
4 = E (?)
5 = Japan
6 = France
7 = Canada
8 = Australia/ ** (?)

11.0 Unit code

12.0 Not used

13.0 Gong test
This tests the lights on gong which chimes when you open the door. The same gong is used in the speed limit warning for models with the trip computer.

14.0-14.4 Error memory: if 000000 no error in memory

15.0 - 18.0 not used

19 Lock Status: unlocks functions in range 1-18 and 20.
19.0 Log1-On/Log1-Off Locks/Unlocks diagnostic regime: To access, press button when Log1-Off shows.
You've already done this section to access the data anyway.

20 Correction Factor for OBC Fuel Consumption Display
20.0 The Factor is displayed numerically in the form ABCD (Thousands/hundreds/tens/units)
The formula for the Factor = Indicated Consumption x 1000 / Measured Consumption 

For more details on this see below.

21.0 Software Reset
Resets some OBC settings. Primarily an IPK factory reset in the event of a configuration error. It also resets any error in the ambient temperature sensor value and resets the Correction Factor to default in the fuel consumption calculator (Section 20). No significant changes will be brought about by a Software Reset.

You may now drive the car with the selected display showing for the duration of the journey.
Turn off the ignition to exit Diagnostic Mode.


More on the Section 20: Correction Factor for OBC Fuel Consumption Display

The indicated consumption should be established by running the system for several hundred miles, preferably a thousand or so without resetting the OBC at any stage. The longer you allow the un-reset system to operate, the more 'accurate' is the indicated consumption. Determine the measured consumption using brim to brim calculations over a similar period.
Now calculate your more accurate factor using the formula above. These digits are what you insert for ABCD.

Press the button to show 20.1 which allows the units (D) to be set. 
The display counts down from the current figure and cycles until you press at the required one. 
This sets it and the display will advance to 20.2

20.2 This allows the 'tens' © to be set as above. When you press the set button, the display advances to 20.3

20.3 This sets the 'hundreds' (B) and then the 'thousands' (A). Each digit is set in succession by a single press.
After setting (A), the display advances to the next function (21.0)

Let's say that the display currently says you get 10km/l fuel consumption. However, you know from your brim to brim tests that it's somewhat lower than this. Let's say that every tank full of petrol (64.8 litres, or whatever you find it to be) allows you to travel 500km.

So the Measured Consumption is 500/64.8 = 7.72 km/l

Your computer is saying it's 10 ml/l so that's the Indicated Consumption.

The Correction Factor (using a calculator) is:

Indicated x 1000 / Measured 
= 10 x 1000 / 7.72 
= 1295 (forget any decimals)

So you replace the existing Factor with this one.
Go to test 20 and you'll see the existing Factor ('ABCD').
Change D to 5
Change C to 9
Change B to 2
Change A to 1 (if necessary) by following the routine described in the instructions.

If your display is in MPG, just use gallons and miles instead of litres and kilometres.

Now when you use the trip computer to display your fuel consumption, it will be much nearer the truth. Note that you must allow the computer to run a good while (1000km or 500 miles or so) without resetting it to get a meaningful result.

 


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#49 ONLINE   gadgetgricey

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Posted 16 November 2017 - 01:38 PM

The thermostat jamming open as above is quite a common thing and the thermostat position is an absolute biatch to do.

 

However you can get kits where you put a (renault 4 - from memory) thermostat in the top hose itself and normal temp is achieved.

 

Edit - At work so cant do a complete check, but think this is the video

 

:

 

 

Done this on mine and works well, however still takes a while to warm up.


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Current fleet

 

75 CDT Auto Tourer

ZT-T Diesel Manual

LPG 4.0 Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ

Saab 9-3 Convertible 

Saab 9-5 Aero

Merc S430 Roffle Win

Focus 1.6 Auto

 


#50 OFFLINE   dean36014

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Posted 16 November 2017 - 01:46 PM

Did the Renault thermostat trick on mine when I had one. Worked perfectly and far better than trying to exhume the original. Was fun trying to shove it down the hose though.

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#51 ONLINE   gadgetgricey

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Posted 16 November 2017 - 01:57 PM

 Was fun trying to shove it down the hose though.

 

What about the thermostat though.

 

Baddum tish


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Current fleet

 

75 CDT Auto Tourer

ZT-T Diesel Manual

LPG 4.0 Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ

Saab 9-3 Convertible 

Saab 9-5 Aero

Merc S430 Roffle Win

Focus 1.6 Auto

 


#52 OFFLINE   Mally

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Posted 16 November 2017 - 02:16 PM

Can we change this to Sold please. I keep getting my wallet out.


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#53 ONLINE   Roverageous

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Posted 16 November 2017 - 08:15 PM

Thermostat IS good on this one! It gets up to running temps of 84-90 but it does warm up a lot quicker with load on the engine which we couldn’t do on the day due to no tax / insurance. I had one before with a stuck open thermostat - it never got over 70’c.

Heater does get toasty when at running temperature - honest!
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