steveo3002 Posted October 16, 2017 Share Posted October 16, 2017 ive had posts about this before but its got worse now and stalls at junctions /clutch down 1.6 mk1 focus idles perfect until you turn the a/c on , its had all new breather hoses that are a common fail on these and a new pcv valve , tried new isv too , and resetting the ecu by disconnection the battery for 10 mins any ideas ? i have a scan tool that goes on the laptop...being old i dont really know what to do with it lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skattrd Posted October 16, 2017 Share Posted October 16, 2017 The obvious solution is to not use the a/c - simples, cost £0 The Moog 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steveo3002 Posted October 16, 2017 Author Share Posted October 16, 2017 yeah hadnt thought of that , id been using routes where i didnt have to stop ever Arthur Foxhake 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirk Diggler Posted October 16, 2017 Share Posted October 16, 2017 I'd be thinking is something seized; take the belt off and see if the compressor spins freely Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiC Posted October 16, 2017 Share Posted October 16, 2017 Does these have a sense wire or a signal to the ECU to increase the idle when the A/C is engaged? Most cars do this as the compressor loads down the engine. cobblers 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skattrd Posted October 16, 2017 Share Posted October 16, 2017 I'd be thinking is something seized; take the belt off and see if the compressor spins freely I'd have said the same as well, compressor sticking possibly dying.Anyway it's winter, nowt to worry about until next year Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfella2 Posted October 16, 2017 Share Posted October 16, 2017 Doesn't the air con pump have a clutch on it, so as said above when you turn on air con the clutch releases and engages the pump which may be seized as mentioned above. So works fine when switched off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steveo3002 Posted October 16, 2017 Author Share Posted October 16, 2017 the pump does have a clutch ...you can watch it free wheel then engage with the a/c , not really sure how you would diag a tight compressor sinse it has the clutch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steveo3002 Posted October 16, 2017 Author Share Posted October 16, 2017 anyone handy with forscan diag...i have it but dont know what to look for Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeR Posted October 16, 2017 Share Posted October 16, 2017 Idle control valve . on front of engine by the throttle unit . 2 bolts to take off and clean it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steveo3002 Posted October 16, 2017 Author Share Posted October 16, 2017 tried 3 isv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pillock Posted October 16, 2017 Share Posted October 16, 2017 Can you observe the clutch on the AC when someone turns it on with the engine running? You may see the belt wobble as the clutch engages and slows the engine to a stop, assuming the AC compressor is stiff or seized. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steveo3002 Posted October 16, 2017 Author Share Posted October 16, 2017 seems to work as you would expect...if the a/c is turned on when idling it just about carries on running , but driving it stalls near everytime sinse the weekend im thinking if the pump was stiff then it might make the belt chirp /make noises which it doesnt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sierraman Posted October 16, 2017 Share Posted October 16, 2017 Off subject but the PAS has an anti stall device to raise revs slightly I’d imagine there’s something similar for the air con. Could be a problem relating to the smart charge element of the charging system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeR Posted October 18, 2017 Share Posted October 18, 2017 worth checking , is your battery a 100% ? , mine died last Friday , completely dead when I came to the car , now I have fitted another battery the charge voltage is very steady at 14.5 V and 12.8 at rest , but before that I did notice it varied a bit from 13,8 V 15 V , with a resting voltage of 12,4 V , but with a few engine misses and surges when running , especially when warming up ....could it be worth checking your battery in case the clutch power draw is upsetting things ? steveo3002 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steveo3002 Posted October 18, 2017 Author Share Posted October 18, 2017 yeah will do that , although both heated screens on doenst effect the idle so slim chance its that will also disconect the rad fan and see what happens incase its a stiff fan causing too much load, but id imagine a fuse would pop Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeR Posted October 18, 2017 Share Posted October 18, 2017 it might not be load related , I sometimes think a battery that's going duff will allow noise into the system which will upset things like sensors ??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steveo3002 Posted October 18, 2017 Author Share Posted October 18, 2017 yeah god knows its beat me , its a recent top o the range battery so should be good will see what mr multimeter says Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeR Posted October 18, 2017 Share Posted October 18, 2017 I have plug in meter from Amazon for the cigie socket , about £2 , its great for checking whats going on ! with having a 1.6 Focus , I have just been out in it and putting the AC on and off made sweet FA change to the tickover !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Moog Posted October 18, 2017 Share Posted October 18, 2017 I think these are smart charge so you will see big V's to charge the battery and then die off once warm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steveo3002 Posted October 20, 2017 Author Share Posted October 20, 2017 ive seen good info that relates to my bad idle suggesting someone else had just the same and the cam belt wasnt on 100% question 1 if i get a locking kit can i check the timing is good bad without having the dreaded super tight crank bolt off? question2if i then decided to replace the belt im struggling to understand at what point you loosen the crank bolt....im thinking you dont lean on it with the locking kit fitted , but if i roar it off with no locking kit then the timing goes to hell - anyone able to run through what order its done ? and same again for tightening it ? pinch it up with the locking kit on then what? edit -- oh and any special size /random sockets or tools required Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hooli Posted October 20, 2017 Share Posted October 20, 2017 I'd be very surprised if you couldn't check the timing with the crank bolt in place, I've never heard of an engine where you couldn't. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twosmoke300 Posted October 20, 2017 Share Posted October 20, 2017 Deffo need a timing kit , pretty sure these have fully floating crank and cam pulleys. Tread carefully if you do the belt . You should be able to check the timing fairly easily but will still need the tools . Lock the crank and then remove cam cover and the long flat tool should fit in the end of the cam .The timing tool IS NOT to be used to undo pulleys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steveo3002 Posted October 20, 2017 Author Share Posted October 20, 2017 yeah so if the timing tool wont fit the cams = timing is out so lock crank ,then loosen cams until bar fits and re tighten?? ...turn with spanner and re check the kit fits??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dome Posted October 20, 2017 Share Posted October 20, 2017 Definitely floating cam pulley on these, can't remember about the crank but I'm not sure if it was. Crank pulley was REALLY hard to get off when I did one many years ago. twosmoke300 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hooli Posted October 20, 2017 Share Posted October 20, 2017 I suspect the crank is floating, it was on 2008 Fiesta 1.25 I did. Setting the timing is easy as said above you lock the crank tool & if the bar fits the cams then it's ok. If not, slacken the cams, lock the crank, twiddle cams till the tool fits & tighten. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steveo3002 Posted October 20, 2017 Author Share Posted October 20, 2017 mentions new crank bolt....does the cam bolts go again ? and after i think its set ...twirl it around with a spanner and refit the tool to confirm yeah? twosmoke300 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hooli Posted October 20, 2017 Share Posted October 20, 2017 I didn't change either, but it was sold shortly afterwards. Not sure if they should be changed or not. Aye, spin it with a spanner or summink to recheck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burnside Posted October 21, 2017 Share Posted October 21, 2017 This may or maybe not be useful, but noticed yesterday that this Months Car Mechanics Mag had a feature on the Zetec 1600 Cambelt change? steveo3002 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steveo3002 Posted October 21, 2017 Author Share Posted October 21, 2017 will have a look thanks for mentioning it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now