Jump to content

A capella. 1989 Mazda 626 content


RobT

Recommended Posts

Thanks Ken. I might just live with it to be honest, until I can source a new one.

 

"Mazda 626 auto spares or parts". Heathrow.  (MOT'd until April though.)  Link not working. Google "Gumtree 1276221874"

https://www.gumtree.com/p/car-replacement-parts/mazda-626-auto-spares-or-parts-/1276221874 

attachicon.gif$_86.JPG

Thanks for the link Alan, but unfortunately saloon and hatch doors aren't interchangeable. I keep an eye on leboncoin and ebay.fr as they seem more plentiful (in relative terms) over there.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Aren't they both saloons? Gumtree ad says 4 door saloon.

 

Sorry, I didn't even click on the link as I was convinced it was a hatch from the pic.  Looks a nice one and too good for spears (probably being sold like that as caveat emptor).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you are still considering buying a door from Australia...

 

$_20.JPG

 

$30 AUD for a complete door, will ship for extra cost, unsure about international shipping though...

 

https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/maryborough/wrecking/wrecking-1989-gd-mazda-626-sedan-5-speed-manual-silver-/1089860668

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 points to the eagle eyed. It's a hatch. As you were.  So the doors are definitely different then?

attachicon.gifCapture.PNG

 

The skin is probably the same, but the frame definitely isn't as there's a 3cm height difference (saloon being higher).

 

I won't fret over finding a replacement though as it still shuts and locks OK.  My next focus is to tackle the rusty bits underneath and a bit of sill end crustiness.  I bought some Bilt Hamber Deox-C gel and was hoping to start doing it this evening after work.  Depends how cold it is and whether I can be arsed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Small update on the Mazzer.

 

My next focus is to tackle the rusty bits underneath and a bit of sill end crustiness.  I bought some Bilt Hamber Deox-C gel and was hoping to start doing it this evening after work.  Depends how cold it is and whether I can be arsed.

 

The sill crustiness turned into a hole so I got a patch welded a few weeks ago and then proceeded to deal with its rusty bottom.  The application of Deox-C sounded a right faff, having to wash it off after use, so I went for Vactan instead after dollywobbler’s recommendation.

 

Before

 

post-5013-0-18381800-1514910880_thumb.jpg

 

After

 

post-5013-0-31574100-1514910897_thumb.jpg

 

post-5013-0-17298500-1514910907_thumb.jpg

 

Not the most enjoyable of jobs so I was a bit slapdash, but it's quite satisfying seeing it done.  I’ll finish with Dynax UB when the weather improves as I’ll just be sealing in the damp otherwise.

 

Here it is with another Japanese sedan on NYE...

 

post-5013-0-91661700-1514911097_thumb.jpg

 

I was hoping to do the sump gasket yesterday but took it for a drive instead, so that remains on the list together with resolving a couple of electrical issues.  The rear demister is intermittent and the rear bulb warning light appears even though they're all OK.  Or is that Japanese efficiency giving warning of an impending bulb failure?!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Small update on the Mazzer.

 

 

 

The sill crustiness turned into a hole so I got a patch welded a few weeks ago and then proceeded to deal with its rusty bottom.  The application of Deox-C sounded a right faff, having to wash it off after use, so I went for Vactan instead after dollywobbler’s recommendation.

 

Before

 

attachicon.gifRust.jpg

 

After

 

attachicon.gifVatcan1.jpg

 

attachicon.gifVatcan2.jpg

 

Not the most enjoyable of jobs so I was a bit slapdash, but it's quite satisfying seeing it done.  I’ll finish with Dynax UB when the weather improves as I’ll just be sealing in the damp otherwise.

 

Here it is with another Japanese sedan on NYE...

 

attachicon.gif626 and R8.jpg

 

I was hoping to do the sump gasket yesterday but took it for a drive instead, so that remains on the list together with resolving a couple of electrical issues.  The rear demister is intermittent and the rear bulb warning light appears even though they're all OK.  Or is that Japanese efficiency giving warning of an impending bulb failure?!

Thanks for the heads up on the ‘save your rusty Jap motor’ items. I’ve added both to my eBay watch list - any ideas on a decent paint to cover the treated areas prior to waxing?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the heads up on the ‘save your rusty Jap motor’ items. I’ve added both to my eBay watch list - any ideas on a decent paint to cover the treated areas prior to waxing?

Hammerite is deemed shit by many, but I'm not sure what else to use. Must be better than leaving it to rot though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Being a Land Rover owner, I use Vactan a lot.

The thing is, I don't over paint it.  I just apply the stuff like you have and simply leave it- it forms a very effective barrier against crud.  The idea of doing this is so that when/ if the metal underneath develops active rust, you can just duff it up a bit with a wire brush and go over again with Vactan.  You're not hiding anything under paint and there's no surprises waiting for you!

In fact the entire chassis on my 110 CSW is covered in the stuff... and it never really gets any worse, even after a harsh winter.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm late to this thread but then I'm late everywhere. Nice to see a 626 saloon, I had a C-plate 2.0i version years ago and liked it a lot. Went well, very well equipped and comfortable. That said parts were bloody expensive like Mazda wanting loads of dosh for a fuel pump, mate fitted a Sierra one which did the job for much less pound notes. The main problem was that the rust bug was in action with it nibbling away around the rear screen causing the car to fill up with water on my sloping driveway. A rear arch went too and the ends of the sills were becoming crusty. Mazda don't seem to be as good as other Japanese manufacturers in rust prevention as the Mazda 6 seems to have quite a reputation for rotting. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It spent the last three years in North Yorks doing 10,000 miles a year, which can't have helped the rust issues. Prior to that it'd only done 30,000 miles in 25 years, giffer owned no doubt. Fortunately most of it is unseen as the exterior panels and rear screen area are tidy enough.

 

I tried fixing the rear demister today by fiddling with the switch and applying contact cleaner. From being intermittent it now doesn't work at all, so I call that a fail and will just live without!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...